I have a 2003 Explorer EB that on deceleration of all speeds, the drivers side rear axle is popping or clicking. Could this be a CV joint? It does not happen on acceleration.
View 3 RepliesI replaced my right front axle a week ago because I was getting severe popping/clicking noises. The boot was torn on the axle and I had grease all over the inside of my rim etc...
The popping/clicking sound was gone immediately after replacing the axle. Now starting yesterday, exactly one week after I replaced it I noticed the popping/clicking sound coming back. It was faint at first but started getting louder. Now today it's almost as bad as it was before I replaced the axle. I still have to get underneath and see if I can hear where it's coming from? Think the axle is bad again? It is an after market Axle, ToughOne is the brand I believe.
Just for a quick history. All four wheel bearings were replaced about two years ago. All four ball joints about a year and a half ago. I replaced the outer tie rod ends about two weeks ago.
2004 Ford Explorer, 4X4, 4.0 Flex Fuel
I am thinking of purchasing a 2003 Ford Explorer XLT 4x4 as my winter vehicle. The car only has 92,000 miles on it. I test drove it, and it seems to run great! The only issue (visibly) with the car is that the rear drivers side door is stuck. There is a dent below the door handle, and the door will not open from the inside of the car, or from the outside. The dent does not look major, and it seems to me that if I can get the door open, I could repair the latch/locking mechanism.
I don't want to buy the car if the only way to repair the door is to spend a ton of money at a body shop. Below are the pictures of the outside of the door. Hopefully the image links work.
I think it is the locking mechanism that is broken. The dent isn't causing the door to be stuck. The power door locks work, and I can manually lock/unlock the rear door. However, even when unlocked, the door will not open from inside or outside the vehicle. It's as though the door is "stuck" because the lock doesn't disengage.
99 F-250 Ext cab 4x4 7.3 285,000 miles.
I got home today opened my door and got snaked in the face with the smell of brakes. I got out of the truck then I heard the drivers side rear brakes popping as they are cooling down. I reached down to touched the wheel and it's crazy hot. Opened the garage and went to retrieve the infared thermometer. The rotor/caliper was 350 degrees, hub was 150 degrees, axle tube was 90 degrees.
I took the wheel off and inspected stuff. The rotors do have some heat spots, the caliper visibly looks okay but not 100%. The pads look like even wear. I am guessing that the caliper either is hanging up or I have a wheel bearing going? The passenger side was like 80 degrees on everything. There is a slight shimmy while driving which to me feels to me like the beginning of warped rotors. I don't hear anything to me that screams wheel bearing noise wise.Brakes or bearings?
Last week i started to notice that my gti clicks on moderate acceleration, and again if I let off and using engine braking. I can only hear it with the windows down, and it seems to be coming from front of the car. My first thought is that the axle bolts might be loose, or I have a failing CV joint. I re-torqued to 70nm, and could not budge for the 90 degrees after that. So, they are tight - possibly too tight?
I've read a bunch of threads on relay clicks, etc., and do not think that's whats going on here. I'll double check tomorrow, and see if it's the 1000 rpm relay click. What this might be, or how to definitively know whether it is / is not the CV's? I'd be fairly surprised if the CV's are dying - I do not drive this car hard or beat on it at all, and generally keep it out of boost around town.
Details on car - '10, MT, about 30k. Koni coils at about 24.5" ftg, APR stg II, B&B TBE, all with about 15k on them.
I own a 2003 Explorer, 4.0 v6, w/93k. When turning either direction from a stop I get a shudder from the rear end. Ford has issue tsb # 17717 but I cannot fix the fix, only a description of the problem. Where can I find a fix I wondered?
View 2 RepliesFor the past few months, there has been a clicking under the dash of my 2005 explorer when the **** is turned on heat. It always clicks and it can usually be stopped by playing with the heat a little but today I was driving and I lost my heat and the clicking got worse. I took the trim off and tried looking what was wrong but I could not find it. The clicking is coming from the drivers side right where the center console meets the dash and its coming from inside the heater box. I thought it might be a vacuum line problem but the clicking continues even after the car is shut off and the vacuum lines drain. It must be some kind of electrical problem....
View 2 RepliesI have a 1996 Ford Explorer (4WD model). Approximately 4 months ago I had a new set of tires put on it, and in the process of replacing the tires the shop noticed that I had a bad ball joint and one of my wheel bearings was going bad. They said the ball joints were known for completely failing, but the wheel bearings usually didn't, so they recommended that the ball joint be replaced first. That is what I had them do. I haven't had the money to get the wheel bearing replaced yet. This past week it got worse to the point where I can hear it now.
At low speeds I can hear a grinding/rattling-type noise from the front drivers side (that's the side that has the bad wheel bearing). At higher speeds the grinding/rattling-type noise fades away due to road noise, but I can still hear a humming-type of noise that is a bit loader than normal - this noise just started a couple of weeks ago so I'm suspecting that this might also be related to the bad bearing.
I won't have the money to get this fixed for another 2 weeks. In order for me to have the money in 2 weeks I will need to continue working at my job 2 days a week. It's approximately 2 hours round-trip from my home to my job. Obviously with the bearing sounding significantly worse I don't want to drive it any more than I have to, but the only way I can get the money to fix it is to keep driving it back and forth to work.
Here's my question. What risks am I running by continuing to drive this? Am I running the risk of the wheel falling off while I'm driving down the freeway at 70 mph? Am I likely to experience other damaged parts in that area of the vehicle?
I have a 2003 Escape Limited 4WD with approx 163K on the clock. It developed a tranny leak from the front driver's side axle. The seal is new and in good shape as I just replaced the axle and seal a few weeks ago. (I checked the shaft size and surface finish of the axle and it is in spec.)
I just removed the axle tonight and discovered that the problem seems to be the bushing just inboard of the seal in the tranny. The axle has movement up and down when inserted. (Not good!) This is allowing the fluid to leak from the seal.
Here are my questions. Is this a simple DIY fix using a slide hammer type of puller (or similar), or is it time to take it to a tranny shop. I can not seem to find a replacement part listed anywhere.
Also, with this much mileage, should I have the tranny reworked as a precaution if this repair requires dis-assembly or should I just address the leak and think about dumping it? I would prefer to keep it as my kids are now driving age and this is primarily their vehicle. (It has been a great little truck!)
I have owned this 2009 Sonata for a year now..in the past month whenever I am at a stop and go to drive (at slower speeds is when its noticed) you hear a slight click sound from the rear. I took it to a local fix it shop today and they said the sway bar link on the left rear side was bent (from a fender bender since repaired). Well this did not fix the issue. They also said my rear brakes have 30% wear left in them. Do you think for any reason this would be the clicking? The noise happens as well when Im backing out of my garage...at low speeds.
View 14 RepliesMy uncle has a 2002 Explorer and the driver side rear spring is cracked. I have agreed to fix this as he is on a tight budget and has no mechanical skills or tools for that matter.
Anyhow, I did some reading and have two monroe quickstruts to replace the OEM stuff. I did not want to screw around with a spring compresser and everything else. Were in Michigan, and I can only imagine how rusted the bolts are on this. So I figured getting the whole unit with new hardware would be the best route.
Hopefully these are easy questions. (I do not have the truck to look at right now, and will be doing this Saturday Morning)
I have air tools, Jackstands, 2 floor jacks, a bottle jack, and everything else I need at this point including PB Blaster, rags, pry bars, sockets, etc.
1. I am assuming once I get the truck in the air, I will put the frame on jack stands, and use the floor jacks to manipulate each side of the rear suspension as needed. If I remove the three top bolts, and the bottom bolt holding the shock, can I move the control arm down enough to get the old parts out?
2. What are the torque specs if any for the top three bolts, and the bottom shock bolt? I read the top three bolts are difficult to get out due to limited clearance, so I doubt a torque wrench will fit in there.
3. Would you locktite these top three bolts at all?
4. Weakest question of the day, What are the torque specs for the lug nuts.
5. Anything I have obviously missed? I have done front struts before with a compressor so I am somewhat familiar with the process. Just not on this car before.
6. When Im in this far, anything else I should look at. I will inspect the brake pads etc. Drain and fill the rear diff fluid if needed, etc.
I have searched high and low on the net to find a pictorial write up of the process....
I replaced my rear brake pads this weekend. I used oem pads and used the shims with CRC lubricant. I also compressed the brake calipers and made room for the new pads. I also tried to take off one of the rotors but it would not come off even with putting screws in the rotor.
Everything seemed fine and brakes were strong but when I went for a test drove there is a clicking sound at low to medium speeds come from the rear passenger side. I checked the retainer pins and they are on correctly.
What the problem may be? I would like to spin the wheel but the parking brake is on. Is it okay to take off the parking brake while jacked up if I block the wheels??
As I had the wheel off to change my tie rod end on my 2003 Camry, I noticed this gunk surrounding the driver side cv axle. I have changed the axle within the last year and there appears to be no grease on the rubber boot itself.
View 5 RepliesI'm almost 99% positive I need to replace my Drivers Front Axle Assembly. I can feel it "click" when I reverse down my drive way and at low speeds regardless whether I turn the wheel. However, at street speeds, you can no longer feel it. I wanted to know if all Axles aftermarket are created equal.
Can I go with the one from ECS : [URL] ..... Or is this a part where staying OEM is important?
I have a 2004 Sport Trac XLT (without sunroof). I recently noticed my rear driver side turn signal was out. Turns out i have quite a few cables corroded from within. The cables are warped together as one fat cable running from the front to the back along the driver side in a "tunnel".
The reason for corrosion seems to be that underneath the floor it's soaking wet. It's dryer towards the break and more wet closer to the mid console. (it may just dry quicker near the break.
The water does not smell of anything. We haven't had rain for a while and i would be surprised if it was rain that staid for so long. All in all that makes me suspect the AC.
I'd like to stop the leak and then replace the cables, at least the stretch where corrosion have occurred. How to troubleshoot this? I am using the car to commute so I can't rip it apart too much.
Here's my problem while replacing brake pads i found that my axle has leaked fluid on the pss,side rear rotor and all over .. I been looking for any info on repairing it myself . I found Everything for every other truck just not for this truck.
It's 2003 F-250 w/5.4L all Stock rear axle has 12 bolts and gears are 7.73 ... I believe its a Dana 60. No tags or markings on the Axle to go by..
I live in the Freak-en woods here so i like to order all the right parts once and do over the weekend .. its my only ride so once apart im stuck here.... I did check the Vent Tube its fine..
Over the course of the past week or so, I've been getting an odd noise from the rear driver side of the vehicle. It's kind of a metallic clicking sound, but the clicks are rather erratic. As I accelerate, the duration between clicks decreases. It's not a "click.. click... click..." noise either. More like, "click click... click... click click click... click click..." If that makes any sense at all. I'm thinking that my wheel bearing is going out, but I don't know for certain. What I might be looking at?
View 12 RepliesMy 2003 Honda Civic Hybrid has lurched for over a year now. The dealership has run tests and can't seem to figure it out -- though my budget has only allowed them to take a look at it 2 or 3 times.
Things I know:
* lurches are accompanied by RPM fluctuations
* only lurches at slow speeds (under 30 mph?)
* only lurches on a slow, steady deceleration -- does not lurch in acceleration or quick deceleration
* dealership replaced O2 sensor; had no effect
* Jiffy Lube flushed oil and (I think) transmission fluid systems; had no effect
* previous owner did not perform regular maintenance; missed oil changes, etc.
* lurching seemed to get really bad last summer, getting progressively worse until the car died on the road. The nearest mechanic said I was out of oil (which surprised me because I had changed the oil maybe 2 months prior?
)* lurching can be minimized by turning off AC/heat
Things that MIGHT be playing a part? seems like it gets worse in summer heat. Definitely still happens in winter though, so this may be my imagination.
I have an 03 ranger and my driver side window will not roll down... My pass side rolls down just fine...when I push the down button all I get is a clicking noise out of what seems to be a little black box underneath the driver side dash and I can actually physically feel the clicking along with hearing it... When I push up on the button I get no noise or anything... this might be the motor...the regulator...or the actual switch?
View 1 RepliesThe axle seal is bad on my 93 Explorer, manual, 4x4 both sides. The shocks and leaf springs are also shot. Instead of replacing the seals, was advised to just replace the entire axle and pick one up at the boneyard with springs.
I am wondering what axles from other vehicles will work? I have been able to find this before through RockAuto's website but there is no information concerning rear axle. Is there a source showing interchangeable parts between vehicles? Aside from the body, Explorer is basically rebuilt now, just needs the gearbox replaced.
I just bought a 2007 LS460 with 90K miles on the clock. It replaces my 2006 LS430, which I loved, but it was getting long in the tooth.
So far, I have fixed the wind noise issue on the pass. side and the only remaining issue is this clicking in the driver rear wheel when the forward or reverse load is first applied.
So, to explain, every time I come to a stop or go from forward to reverse, I hear one or two clicks once I apply the gas. It sounds like some metal part is settling in place. The sound is not there once under way and there is no other noise at all.
The shop I went to spent couple of hours looking for the cause, listening with mechanics stethoscopes, feeling by hand, while the car was in the air with the wheel off and came up with either a rear hub or rear axle on its way out. It is hard to pinpoint the exact source because the click or metal ping is transferred to all the metal components of the assembly and there are plenty of them there.