Ford - Explorer :: 2002 XLT - O2 Sensor Replacement - Code PO136
Dec 26, 2014
My 02 Explorer (XLT, 4.0) decided to throw a new code today. PO136, O2 Sensor Circuit (Bank 1 Sensor 2).
While it may be a wire issue, I still plan to replace the sensor. So the question is;
Can I get to it from under the vehicle or is there an access panel under the console like on the 2nd gens?
I have the sensor on order and plan to get it done on my days off next week.
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Wife's 04 Escape threw the PO136 code for bank 1 sensor 2 02 sensor. Replaced it and light is off. Not convinced something else isn't causing it.
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I have a 06 F150 and I am getting the P2207 code on it. Sounds like a O2 sensor has gone bad. From reading a little about it online, it sounds like there are (3) different ones on the truck. Is there any way of knowing which one has gone bad or do you just have to replace all of them? How hard of a job is it, do you need a special tool to remove the old sensor?
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Question is, will the key that comes with the new cylinder need to be programed. If so how is this done?
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From my searches, readings and looking at the parts diagram. On the newer 5 speeds the sensor is the one on the inside of the tranny. This requires taking the entire tranny apart? Is there an external connector for the sensor that I can check or clean first? Replace this sensor. I know the older ones were mounted on top of the tranny. I think this one is mounted on the inside though.
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Have a 2002 Ford Explorer 4.0 6cyl. w/ around 150K
I recently started hearing a little chirping noise when starting from cold. The rate of the chirping increases with the rpms (reving in neutral or when speeding up while driving). The sound usually goes away after things warm up.
Doing some research, the most suggested cause for such chirping is something called a Camshaft Position Sensor. Information mentions that this item can either need lubrication or to be replaced.
I was going to try lubrication first....then if the problem persists...replace.
My biggest issue is locating it on a 2002 4.0 Explorer (4 door, 4wd). I've read different reports for different Year models (mostly 97-2001)...which often include pictures. But I can't find ANY pictures for the 2002 4.0
QUESTION: Where it is located on my 2002 6cyl model? I read one account of it being on top of the driver's side valve cover....and I DO see an item in that location secured by one bolt..and it does have an electrical wiring harness attached....but I'm not sure...and have not seen any photos that look like my engine.
I've attempted to upload a picture of what I think maybe be the sensor (circled on red).
I've also come across an item called a "CRANKshaft position sensor".....are these different items, and, if so, does the crankshaft p.s. also "chirp" when needing lubrication or replacing ?
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2002 ford sport trac.I have been having an ongoing issue that started with the engine cranking but would not turn over until an hour passed. After replacing multiple parts (cam shaft sensor, crankshaft sensor, ignition pack) I am now down to poor fuel economy as the last of the issues (roughly 12 in the city and 15 highway). I was told the issue may be the engine coolant temperature sensor going bad so I decided to replace it. I found this was very difficult due to it being a plug and locking pin design and in a very tight spot in the engine.
I tried to purchase a replacement and the parts store kept trying to insist on selling me a part with threading. I finally found someone that figured out the issue and found the part for the 2001 sport trac had the same plug style with clip that did fit but was shaped a little different on the sensor end which I assume was due to being aftermarket. I noticed that there were two plugs side by side and the one easiest to access was on the left and I was told the one on the right was the sensor that gave the temperature reading to the gauge.
After installing the engine coolant temperature sensor I found the temperature gauge on the dash now will not respond and is sitting below the cold end of the gauge completely off. Is it possible this is because the part was for a 2001? Is the sensor on the left (passenger side) the engine coolant sensor?I would hate to put the old sensor back in just to test if that's the issue due how difficult it was to put that locking pin back on. What to check that could resolve the gauge issue before pulling this sensor back out?
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Followed procedure to replace sensor.. unhook battery cable reset ecm. After reset engine is hard to start. Followed by RPM changes (assuming its the ECM re-adjusting). Then CEL flashes 5-6 times and goes out, Drive 15 miles. Map sensor code reappears. (note i only purchased one sensor But repeated install 2 times).
My thought is against wiring. since the codes refer to different signal wires one for IAT one for MAP sensor. Faulty replacement sensor?
2002 Accent 1.6L
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I am looking to verify that replacing the Transmission Range Sensor on my 2002 SE is the correct action for me to take. My symptoms include:
1) Fuse 17 keeps blowing intermittently but frequently. It has never blown in a middle of a trip. Have not determined if it is blown at end of trip or right at start of next trip.
2) All gears are highlighted (have boxes lit up on all gears) when I am in park or neutral. The correct gear is highlighted when in any of the drive gears including reverse. This symptom is constant and has been for a few months now.
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I need to replace O2 Sensor which is Bank 2 Sensor 2 which needs to be replaced.
Where is this located on a 2009 Hyundai Santa Fe 3.3L
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I need to replace the crankshaft position sensor. On my 2002 Grand Caravan Sport 3.3liter. Where it is in laymans terms.
Is it better to approach from the underside Or from the hood side? I will know it when I see it but I haven't seen it yet!!
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Getting code P2125. Read on here to get some electric contact cleaner and see if that works by cleaning the connections.
If I do end up changing out the Throttle Position Sensor, what voltage value do I look for when installing the new one ?
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I recently acquired my dad's old truck. Its a 2002 Explorer EB 4.6L 4x4. Great truck, family owned since new. Recently it has had the service engine soon like pop up and its throwing code P0340. The mysterious cam sensor code.
May I ad that the sensor itself is new, OEM ford. I have just replaced the alternator (which is usually a common problem for this code), and still no luck. The car starts up, still runs great, and has had no hesitation or stalling.
My mechanic friend checked it out and said that it is getting some voltage, but not as much as it should? the wiring to the PCM looked good too. The Ohms on the CMP checked out good too.
I really hope its not the PCM on this car. I may have to just take it into the ford dealer to see if they can diagnose the car. I do work as a tech at a small indy shop, but currently dont have the time since i'm trying to finish my schooling this year.
I just want my car to be in tip-top shape...
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So, my '06 XL just popped up a P0051 code, which is the bank 2, sensor 1 (the upstream A/F sensor that you can easily view upon opening the hood in the front exhaust manifold. Easy enough of a replacement on that one, but what about bank 1, sensor 1 (the upstream A/F ratio sensor on the firewall side of the engine)? I changed my oil today and I can access three of the four oxy/A/F sensors, but the upstream rear looks like a bitch! Out of curiosity, I called a local Toyota dealer and they said it would be 300.00 total to replace the hidden sensor on the firewall side. Does this amount seem realistic? I know that there is a TSB for this sensor that states to replace the exhaust manifold/cat assembly. I def. can't afford no 1700.00 crap right now!!
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I have an 08 avalon w/ 281k miles. NEED to replace the transmission speed sensor (P0500 code thrown). Where is it located on the trans and what is the part #? I'm thinking about servicing the trans while I'm there but looks like a lot of "comments" regarding this transmission and the problems with servicing it!?
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I recently got the solid check engine light for my 2003 VW Jetta 1.8T GLS. I used a bluetooth OBDII dongle and Torque Pro to pull the code P0118. This seems to coincide with my symptoms:
Car idle at start in park stays around 1100RPM then in reverse it drops to 1000RPM then back into park and it stays around 900RPM and keeps that at idle.
If I start the car then immediately reverse out of my driveway then the car has a very rough idle but if I wait around 5 seconds in park idle then reverse out of my driveway it is smooth.
My car dash thermometer stays pretty close to the bottom low then after about 4-5 minutes it shoots up to 190F and stays. Gas mileage is also very poor.
I looked up a tutorial which shows the parts needed and how to replace the sensor : [URL] .....
I removed the engine cover and believe I found the coolant temp sensor in the spot the tutorial shows. My question is if there is anything I should be aware of before attempting to replace this sensor that this tutorial doesn't cover? I took a screenshot of what I believe is the coolant temp sensor.
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I have a 2002 GLX Wagon 2.8 30v, and was getting Cat warm up threshold low code, on the driver side due to the cat being bad. As a temp fix I decided to use spark plug haulers to gap the sensor. When I removed the O2 sensor I wiped the dirt off with a paper towel, which was clean and dry. I put the sensor back on, but now I am getting 4 codes which won't go away. p0036 p0056 p0141 p0161. These are O2 heater circuit codes both bank 1 and 2. I did not touch bank 2 so I don't know how I could have caused this error. I tried to take off bank 2 sensor but it is really stuck on there.
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I have a 2002 Prius with 70,000 miles on it. The car broker replaced one cell which lasted about 15oo miles.
Code P3022 tells me I need a replacement battery.
The internet tells me Gen 2 and 3 cells are better than Gen 1.
Luscious Garage says don't buy a rebuilt battery with old cells, buy a new one.
Toyota tells me they only sell batteries with rebuilt old cells from Gen 2.
One person told me he would sell me a brand new Gen 1 battery with Gen 1 cells manufactured by Toyota. Does this sound right? or rebuild Gen 1 Batteries with NEW Gen 2 or 3 cells?
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