Ford - Explorer :: 2002 XLT - Intermittent ABS Light / Brakes Will Pulsate When Slowing
Jun 6, 2015
Have an 02 Explorer XLT that recently had its' ABS light intermittently come on. As well when the ABS light is off the brakes will pulsate when slowing.
Took to dealer they noted the following:
Rear sensor out .... ABS Control unit is out. Was shorted out due to Hydraulic Control Unit going out. Hydraulic control unit is obsolete at Ford.
Questions:
With all of this going on, how was I able to brake although not adequately?
Does the HCU control normal breaking too (without ABS)?
Immediately he says he would not put the money into it and wants to get me to someone to trade it in on another vehicle? While I understand the logic somewhat I do not being approached like this.
Can I get a better quote going to a mom and pop mechanic and getting second hand parts?
Is there a possibility to bypass/disconnect the ABS system and would it be recommended?
How to deal with? Vehicle is in great shape aside from mechanical issues creeping up and don't want to lay out the dough for a new vehicle.
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Ok where to start. I have a 98 ford explorer with a 4.0l OHV engine close to 280,000km. There is a leak coming from somewhere around the oil filter but there seems to be oil coming from more then one spot. Second issue is when a idle the voltage seems to die a bit until I hit the gas and it returns to normal but this issue seems intermediate at times. And I have just replaced the oil filter for the second time no second gasket.
Also I am having a tranny shift flare problem from second to third and when it is under alot of pressure in the bush going up hills it just kicks out of gear and roles back. And another issue is seems like maybe my power steering pump may be bad when I am idiling it seems to pulsate and when I change the position of the steering wheel the pulasting will go away or not be as bad.
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Have been having problems with my a/c on my '02 Sport Trac (4x4 w/ 235K miles) running cold, then hot, then cold again but inconsistently. Aside from the fact that it always seems to happen when I'm really in need of some cold air, there doesn't seem to be a pattern...in traffic, idling, highway driving, city driving, but it does seem to be a bigger problem at lower speeds or in traffic. No issues with air flow or controls, just maintaining cold temps. I've already had the system recharged and in the past replaced the a/c manifold hose assembly, and a dye test was inconclusive.
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We have a 02 Sport Trac that has intermittent brake light problem. All other functions for the bulb filament for the brake lights work! Turn signal and flashers work great. The brake light that is above the rear window works, BUT the brake lights on the rear of the Sport Trac work when they what to.
Right now I can not find a cause that causes them to not work or to work. This morning they worked in the garage but did not work as my wife pulled out of the driveway. Last night they did not work on part of the way home but worked coming into the drive way.
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Just got a new to me 02 Limited v8 - 128k on the clock
Noticed today while at a stop light that when I depress the brake pedal (after being stopped) it makes a squishy sound - the pedal feels different, but I don't know if spongy/squishy is the right way to describe it, it just sounds like you stepped on a waterlogged sponge.
Now the brakes definitely don't feel as good as my XLT brakes (recently replaced it due to rod knock - 02 XLT v6). It still stops but seems like it requires more effort and almost fades a little. I initially chalked up the difference in performance to me putting new rotors/pads on the XLT - Thermo-quiet semi's with Raybestos rotors.
However it appears after some brief reading this could be the master cylinder on its way out....is that accurate? I planned on taking my pads/rotors off the XLT before I ship it to the junkyard (less than 3k on that setup), but if its the master cylinder, I'd like to do that while I'm doing all my other tune up stuff this weekend
I'm gonna put it on the lift this weekend and see if there's any brake fluid stains to see if air is getting into the system, but looking at the reservoir over the past week I haven't noticed really any decline in fluid level.
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I have a 2002 explorer 2wd. I am trying to find an answer for this thumping noise as I accelerate. My first thought was a tire. I took them to be checked and had one replaced but all are good and less than 5k miles on them. I feel it in the pedals and in the steering wheel. The repetitive sound increasing with speed. I have, in the last 2 weeks, changed front rotors and pads with no difference in sound but good brakes now. And today replaced the drivers side upper ball joint and the front ds wheel hub assy. And no difference. What may be the problem?
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My 2007 Explorer (XLT, V6 4.0L, 4WD, 175k miles) has been experiencing a check engine light, intermittently, for the past few months. I took it to AutoZone to read the code and they gave me a printout for P0193. For awhile, the light would go off after I filled the tank with gas (usually the next day) and would come again as the level in the tank decreased (typically around 1/4 of a tank). Then about two months ago, the behavior seemed erratic and I could no longer predict when it would appear. During the past couple of weeks I only recall seeing the CEL once (briefly); it's mostly been off. Saturday night I was out driving and it came on again.
About two hours later, my vehicle "conked out" on me. It started hesitating (it's been a very long time since I've run out of gas, but that's what it reminded me of). Fortunately, there was no traffic and I was able to get it off the road but didn't have enough momentum to get it into a defined parking space before it quit. I sat there for awhile pondering my options (not too many since it was the middle of the night and I don't have road service). After about 10 mins or so, I decided to see if I could get it started. It did start and I was able to drive it home (< 10 miles). It's been sitting in the driveway since because I'm afraid of getting stranded if I drive it again. BTW, I was low on gas when it died -- about 50 miles to E (was headed to the gas station when it happened, but took it home instead).
After everything I've read the past few days, I'm expecting that I need to replace at least the fuel filter, the fuel rail pressure sensor and the intake gaskets for the manifold. I am not a mechanic, don't have diagnostic tools, my funds are really limited right now and I'm pretty much on my own to figure this out.
Q1: For those who may have some knowledge about this particular issue, does the intermittent nature of the CEL give any clues to which part(s) might be malfunctioning?
Q2: I found a replacement FRPS made by Bosch on Amazon, significantly cheaper -- is this brand ok or should i stick to Motorcraft?
Q3: Any advice on the manifold gasket replacements (is one brand better than another)?
Q4: Do I really need the special tool to replace the fuel filter?
The questions above are no longer relevant. I'm in the process of "locating" the sensor. I have the air hose and throttle body off. Now I'm looking at the EGR valve. It looks like I will have to disconnect the it from the large pipe beneath it. Will I also need to remove the two smaller bolts that mount it to the manifold cover, or can I remove the cover & valve together? It looks like those little buggers are going to be challenging since they are facing the back of the engine compartment. This is rather slow-going for me, but there's no turning back now.
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The boss has an 08 Sport Trac, V8, 4x4. It has the hard bump when slowing to a stop. I've read here that there is a TSB to reprogram the transmission. Called a dealer in Ft. Worth to schedule appointment. Service guy say there is no TSB. Looking for a copy or number or anything on the TSB?
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Yesterday after about a 2hr drive as soon as I got off on the interstate exit and started to slow down my Explorer made this horrible sound that almost sounded like a power drill or the engine over revving. Then it did it every time I would slow down for anything after that. At first I thought it may have been the transmission so I took straight to a tranny shop, and by the time they got around to looking at it (several hours later) they said they could not find anything wrong with it and could not reproduce the noise. So I started driving home and about an hour into the drive it started doing it again. It only makes the noise when you take your foot off the gas. As soon as you touch the gas pedal it immediately stops. Someone told me it may be the bearings in the tension pulley, does this make sense ?
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On my 96' Explorer 4wd, 4L V6, auto tranny the front end makes a roaring noise when slowing down from 30mph to stop; no shimmy or shake or any other noise, it has 133K miles on it, original wheel bearings; just wondering if it is wheel bearing assembly and are these pressed on or can you remove them and replace with new assembly fairly easily. Are there any threads with the procedure here.......
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I have a 1984 Ford F150, has about 110,000 miles on it, been a outstanding vehicle. Recently, after I drive if for about 15 minutes, the vehicle feels like it's dragging something, like the brakes are slowing and steadily engaging without depressing them. And, along with this, a chemical odor is present. And if it is the master cylinder, does it make sense to repair considering the age of the vehicle and worth?
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93 explorer 215000 miles on it runs like a champ 99.9% of the time. I am on my way home today on the highway going 75mph when all of sudden it started slowing down and sputtering. I quickly pulled over and as I did the car shut off. When I was pumping the pedal nothing would happen. I initially thought fuel pump is dead as I dont know if its been replaced. 45 minutes later on the side of the highway after multiple times trying to start, it does and I cruise the next 20 miles home no problems at all????
Got home started it a few times, NO PROBLEMS!
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I have a 2003 Explorer 4.0l 4x4 auto. Yesterday day the passenger rear tire got a flat, so I put the full size spare on, and went about my business. About 2 miles up the road is a stop sign, so I start slowing down, and while slowing down I can hear a whining thumping sound from the front of the vehicle. It wasn't doing this before the flat, but right after I put the spare on it starts to do this. It only happens when slowing down, not under acceleration.
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My explorer is stuck in 4wd and no 4wd light is on. How can I get it out. Coz its hard to drive?
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I just replaced the trans in my 02 sport trac and have no speedometer and ABS light is on now. I made sure all connections on trans were tight and I didn't mess with speedometer sensor seeing how it is on the rear diff on this truck. spent two weekends replacing this thing and am not at all happy with the results. By the way i did it all on my back. No vehicle lift or trans lift.
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Airbag light came on --- went off, came back on. What do I check for something like this?
2002 limited with around 120k...
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I have a 1998 Cadillac Seville STS which has recently developed an intermittent stalling issue. Here are the details:
Happens occasionally when I'm slowing down or coasting, such as turning into a parking lot or going around a sharp entrance ramp-Has not yet happened during acceleration-No bucking or jerking while accelerating-No apparent warning that it is going to stall-Has happened once each of my last two trips
The first few times it happened my fuel level was pretty low, and one of the times I tried several times to restart it and it would start but die right away. I managed to get it started again, then I filled the tank and tested the fuel pressure at the rail, and I got 45-50 psi with the key turned but without the engine running.
After that time, I have not had any difficulty restarting it when it stalls. I held the valve in basically the same position that it is installed (meaning I didn't turn it upside down) and sprayed in the opening with throttle body cleaner (not carb cleaner). I then used a "pipe cleaner" to clean the inside, and I also worked the plunger up and down after I sprayed it.
I had a few "false alarms" in the past thinking it was fixed, so I wanted to wait until I was sure before posting. I now have to lose the habit of constantly glancing at the tach to see if it's about to stall. It would be interesting to know why cleaning the EGR valve fixed it.
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My 1996 Dodge Grand Caravan has developed a curious problem. It intermittently stalls, sometimes when slowing down, sometimes when going up an incline, sometimes on straightaways. Once stalled, it often won't start again until it has sat for 20-30 minutes. Then it starts right back up again and drives perfectly normally until the next time that it stalls-which can be days or hours. The problem is definitely getting worse--six times today. Warmer temperatures seem to exacerbate the problem. Again, the engine runs very smoothly up to the point of the stall. My mechanic was unable to replicate the problem and his diagnostics showed everything to be normal.
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I am working on my friend's '02 Explorer 4x4 with 4.6L engine with 122k on it, the dash is telling him that he has low oil pressure. When it first came on he was an hour away from home, what he told me he did was pull over and checked his oil level right away. He found that it was still full and since the engine wasn't making noises he resumed his trip home. During the drive home he said the dummy oil pressure gauge would read normal then drop all of a sudden then come back up again after so long.
When he got back home he changed the sending unit plus the oil and filter and his Explorer still reads as if it has no oil pressure. The needle does not read anymore, he noted to me when he pulled the filter off it looked like it did not have the normal amount of oil inside it. I did not get to see it so I can not verify that. When he starts it it kind of sounds like it has to fill the filter every time like a fresh oil change, rattles around for a second then smooths out and sounds good..
So is his oil pump to blame for the light being on or is there something wrong with the gauge in the cluster? I have not hooked a mechanical gauge up to where the sending unit threads into so I don't know how much pressure it actually has. If not the oil pump what could be the cause? My other friend and I looked at the oil that came out of the new filter and we thought we saw metal specs in the oil. Is it new engine city time? It has such low miles to need an engine.
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I have a 2002 Explorer that had a whining rear, changed it out with a good rear out of my parts truck and now I have an ABS light on. It says something about input to the sensor and output from the sensor and left and right wheels. 4 Codes in all. I changed the speed sensor in the top of the rear to the one that was in this truck because the light wasn't on before and it still has this light.
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I replaced my wheel bearings and wheels roughly 6 months ago, right after I noticed my wheels gittered when turning at low speeds. I assumed this was a power steering issue or the new tires. I have now learned from this forum that it is most likely stuck in 4x4 HIGH but has no indications on the dash. Just yesterday though the actual 4x4 High light started flashing in different variations. I get 6 flashes one time, then 8 flashes 2 minutes later on the dash and so on back and forth. When I stop I can put the truck in 4x4 high and the light stays on, same with 4x4 low. Then when I go back to 4x4 auto they go off but I still feel gittering while turning at low speeds. What would cause this? I see a lot of people replacing the Xfer case control module but no one seems to have the same problem.
2002 4.0L XLT 135k
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