Ford - Explorer :: 2002 V8 - When In Low Gear RPMs Rev High But Car Does Not Shift Up - Code PO732
Aug 10, 2012
My 4.65L V8 Explorer has an issue in low gear - RPMS rev high but car doesn't shift up.. eventually "catches" with a jerk but the OD Light started flashing and the Systems Screen reads Check Transmission. Light goes out and message goes away after turning car off and restarting. Had one Tech look at it - he said second gear is toast and need full transmission rebuild. Another Ford Tech looked and could just be solenoid needing replacement and advised to have a transmission service (not a flush) done....
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Purchased my 2013 Elantra GT a few months ago and have been having a problem that had stumped everyone at the dealership. Thought I'd see who else is having it and what the thoughts are. To start, this is a 6SPD Manual Transmission.
Problem: Say you're at a stop and begin accelerating in 1st gear and then shift into neutral because you have to come to a stop again. When operating normally, the RPMs immediately wind down to idle. Well for me, about 15% of the time or more, the RPMs will take up to 10-15 seconds to wind down to idle. During this time, you cannot really shift into 1st gear because the RPM are too high.
The dealership has been working on this issue since last month. They replaced some parts and it is still doing it. They got diagnostic data and told me the throttle was sticking. No one could figure it out. Engineers got involved from regional, and it got pretty heavy as far as time. After several attempts at figuring out the problem and replacing things (which didn't resolve the issue), the engineers drove another new GT and found it was also doing it. So all of a sudden they said "it's normal" and closed the case.
Chances are, if other new ones are doing it, so is yours. I got second opinions from other auto shops who said it is not at all normal and that there may be a defect in the design. I've owned 4 Manual Transmission cars and I have never seen this before. If you're curious and have the 6spd manual version of this car, the easiest and quickest way to see this happen is accelerate in 1st gear to about 4000RPM and shift into neutral. Eventually, it'll get stuck and take a significantly longer time for the RPMs to return to idle. Usually when it finally happens, it'll keep doing it for several subsequent acceleration cycles.
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I had to stop quick today. My ice water spilled into the gear shift lever. A mile down the road my rpms went up high and the car barely moving.
2006 Hyundai Sonata...
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My '00 V10 4x4 w/ 163k miles has had a rough shift from 2-3 (30-40 mph) with high rpms. If I let off the throttle before the shift I can get it to shift smooth, but if I don't let off the throttle it can shift really hard. I only have this issue from 2-3 and it has not gotten worse since I bought the rig almost two years ago. Driving conditions are around town on occasion and for towing a 3k pound pop up. Maybe 2k miles a year so far? The hard shift happens whether towing or not.
I have done just a drain and fill on the trans fluid a year ago. Have not had time to change the filter (even though I have read it's not necessary). I am planning on doing another drain and fill soon along with the filter since I have one and cleaning out the trans pan.
When searching on FTE I read a post about the accumulator springs that can go bad and was wondering if maybe this is the problem? Since I am planning on doing the filter change I was going to do the spring replacement while the pan was open.
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2003 jetta gls 1.8t 5spd - gts stage 1 tune(gonzo stage 2)
tt 2-1/2" downpipe with high flow cat
turbo smart splitter valve(set to divert only)
turbo inlet pipe
homemade intake with k&n filter
stock n75 valve (f)
So in first through 3rd gear my car gets 20psi of boost then at 3,500 ish rpm smoothly starts to lower down to 15psi. but in forth and 5th gear the boost drops faster, enough so the diverter valve actually opens. then the boost will bounce up and down, around 15psi. the car still accelerates but with obvious power loss.
Is my diverter valve not "firm" enough? it is adjustable, so I've tightened it as much as it can. it doesn't seem to change anything. it came with spring spacers to make it tighter, but I haven't tried that yet.
Is it something with the tune? not enough fuel, need bigger injectors? The problem is only at about 100mph, so its not a big deal. I would like to get it straightened out if possible.
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its a 99 explorer xlt AWD 5.0l v8. It has the AODE/w tranny. When I take off with it (normal accelerating) it shifts fine from 1st to 2nd. But when it is suppose to change into 3rd gear the rpms will keep rising as i give it gas. When I let off the gas it goes into neutral. I plan on changing the fluid and filter in it. But need to know if there is anything to check in the valve body before putting new fluid back in? This problem has come at a bad time for me.
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Recently my 93 Ranger 4.0 has started to take longer to shift into 2nd gear and the rpms are way up there. shortened 2nd gear then 3rd will be fine and so on. This only happens after the engine goes completely cold. I took it to a transmission shop and they said tranny is fine...Other than this issue the truck is fine.
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I have a 2002 Ford Explorer and besides the seemingly oh-so-common annoying crack in the tail gate, I have another issue I consider to be major. Recently, on a short trip to the store, I hit an incline in the road of a slight degree. At this point I noticed the RPMs going wildly up and down and ultimately the truck died. I tested this out on a few drives and what I've noticed is that if I'm on a flat surface, the truck seems to be okay. OR if I do hit an incline, either lifting of the gas or powering through it seems to work...although neither of which is a long-term solution. I just lost my job a couple weeks ago and the idea of taking it to a mechanic scares me as I'm very limited on savings. I don't really know where to start.
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Problems overheating. Have replaced thermostat and the housing for it...fan clutch and water pump. Its still overheating especially going uphill when RPM's are higher. How can I check to see if there is a radiator blockage?
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I was pulling into my driveway. I put the car in park, but when i went to get out of the car, it started to roll forward. When I finally got it stopped, I tried to shift it, and it wouldn't shift to any spot. Then it became stuck in between Park and Reverse. I can't move the gear shift.
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2003 Explorer XLT.. All dash lights off finally... had to tape the new ABS connector into the socket on the driver's side. It kept losing signal. Now I am noticing that it is shifting a little hard, definitely not smooth, between 2nd and 3rd. It is not a hard jerk... more like a hesitation. could this be a solenoid? Should I look and feel for additional symptoms? Would it be risky to change out the transmission fluid? or use a cleaning additive?
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2003 Ford Exploreer 4x4 5R55W Auto Tranny. From driving the car it does not shift into 2nd or 5th gear. The O/D light flashes, and the check engine light comes on. Gives Code P0775, which indicates a problem with Solenoid 2.
This weekend I changed the Shift Solenoid Pack with a brand new one from Ford, and the exact same problems still exist. It's as if I hadn't done anything to the car. I have read somewhere that 2nd and 5th gears share a band in the tranny, could the the problem.?
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I have a 2002 Eddie Bauer Explorer. When running does not pass the third shift.
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So after my 500 mile break in I decide to see what my new set up is made of. Had the kinetics stage 3 and the south bend stage 3 clutch installed. Did my first launch...everything went great. Got just a little bit of spin and the car took off like a scud missile. Right as Im going to shift into second my Rpms go down fast. No weird noises no metallic sounds nothing. No fluid under the car. Only a slight clutch smell nothing crazy. Car wouldn't go into gear. Shut the car off and it goes into gear.
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I go out of town for work for a week and come back and my 1999 F250 V10 GAS, is acting up. It started when i tried to drive it and it didn't want to shift, it would rev up to 3000+ RPMs and finally shift really hard into gear along with the speed odo not keeping up and bouncing around not wanting to work. I also had my entire gauge cluster lit up with no key and door closed. all the lights were on and it was "dinging" like the door was open and it wasn't. you would hear it when you put your ear up to the door.
So my first thought was to change the VSS (which I did) no luck. So I started wiggling wire loops under the fuse box in the cab and the "dinging" quit.. i took it for a drive and it works like nothing ever happened. Obviously I am guessing there's a short so i brought it to my mechanic and hes saying he couldn't find anything by the fuse box but he thinks its closer or even attached to the gauge cluster itself. could this be true? Why would the gauge cluster loop throw off the shift points?
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I think it's possessed! My sisters vehicle, a 2002 Explorer with a 4.0 V-6, automatic, 2 wheel drive will just shut off. At first it acted like it would vapor lock. But it would start right away. then the a while later, (several months), it got where it would drop rpms and the engine shudders, sometimes not dying.
When this first started, the throttle body was cleaned, a new air filter installed, fuel pressure checked. Everything checked out and for a few days it ran fine. Then it started all over again. There has never been a code thrown. All of this goes on only when the ambient temp is above 70 deg.'s. below 70 deg.'s it runs perfect.
Last week it went to the mechanic again and a new crank speed sensor, fuel pump, and diagnostic done. He could not find anything wrong any where. Took it for a test drive and it dyed on the mechanic. Still no codes. What the problem might be? Every Mechanic that has looked at it has gave up, one even saying, " it's possessed."
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My parents are having trouble with there 2008 Santa fe 3.3 L. The transmission won't shift and the rpm's climb really high. Does that mean the transmission is going or is it something else.
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I am not sure if it's my imagination or not, but my car seems to be running differently lately.
When the car shifts into 4th the Rpms seem to drop kind of and the car seems like it is bogging down. Not extreme, but I don't remember this when I first got it. It's like I really have to accelerate when it shifts into 4th or I cannot pick any speed up.
Is it because the motor is now broken in? It has right at 8,000 miles now. It's due for an oil change, but I wouldn't think that would have anything to do with it !
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I replaced my wheel bearings and wheels roughly 6 months ago, right after I noticed my wheels gittered when turning at low speeds. I assumed this was a power steering issue or the new tires. I have now learned from this forum that it is most likely stuck in 4x4 HIGH but has no indications on the dash. Just yesterday though the actual 4x4 High light started flashing in different variations. I get 6 flashes one time, then 8 flashes 2 minutes later on the dash and so on back and forth. When I stop I can put the truck in 4x4 high and the light stays on, same with 4x4 low. Then when I go back to 4x4 auto they go off but I still feel gittering while turning at low speeds. What would cause this? I see a lot of people replacing the Xfer case control module but no one seems to have the same problem.
2002 4.0L XLT 135k
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Found on road dead is right, my car has 160000 miles before it broke down. The early symptoms that I noticed was my brake light would come on every now and then. When my car first broke down a plastic pin or clip that connects to the column above the transmission next to the senor disconnected. I noticed this when my car wouldn't move and then I put it back into the hole so it can shift into which it did when I started it. I then went to a store and got a metal pin to hold it in place so I can shift into my gears.
After I left the store about 30 min later I was trying to get up to speed and my car wouldn't go over 45 mph and then wouldn't shift into any gears and I parked it on the did of the road. I later replace the plastic pin that holds the shifter cable to the transmission column and still nothing. I then thought it was the transmission range sensor because the brake light is on and still nothing. When I turn on my car the brake light remains on and I can shift out of park and when i do that it will shift threw all the gears. I'm starting to think my transmission gone but I'm confused why the brake light is on.
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I have had my 20th for about a month now and I feel like first gear is so slow. I usually shift around 3,000 rpms. I was wondering if 1st if just slow in these cars or if there's something wrong?
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