Ford - Explorer :: 2002 - Unable To Remove Front Sway Bar?
Sep 6, 2012
2002 ford explorer XLT. Here is a pic of the issue. have a broken right front sway bar link that has broken on the top however the bottom is still attached. I am unable to remove it. The top portion is gone and I am unable to grip what is left enough to loosen the bottom bolt. I have tried pliers as well as vice grips to keep it from spinning as I loosen the bottom bolt. Nothing has worked. The outside plastic OEM piece is stuck in there so well I am unable to break that loose either. I have sprayed PB blaster hoping to loosen things up but here I am writing this.
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One is coming apart, so I'm gonna replace the pair. My Chilton book says to jack the front end up. The part instruction sheet makes no mention of doing that.
Raising the front would allow the control arms to hang. That would seem to me to make it harder to deal with the links.
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I have a 2008 2.4 lots of movement in front sway bar so trying to change bushing. Have it on a hoist and still can't get to the rear bolts to remove them have 3 different socket sets power ratchet and different spanner sets. Is there a DIY write up on this or pictures as I have not been able to find one?
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Can't find out how to remove the driver side front bumper grille. I could not see any screws or tabs holding it in. I'm hoping it can be removed without taking off the entire front bumper.
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Thats what my mechanic told me about my 2002 exploder sport trac with 4.0. I started another thread here a while back about my truck having a bad miss, turns out it has a broken valve spring. He said the engine must be removed to do the job as its on the #1 cylinder which happens to be on the passenger side and the cam chain drive is on the back of the block.
He said my choices are: Remove the engine and just replace the spring, which may or may not effect a repair as theres no way to know if the valve made contact with the piston. Remove the head and send it off to a machine shop for repair/inspection. Or, remove both the heads, one for repair and inspection, the other just for inspection, and then put the whole mess back together.
Whats the best option here? I'm not exactly made of money, and, I'm still licking my wounds about having such a mechanical disaster take place on a vehicle that up until this point, I absolutely loved and has only 90,000 miles on the clock.
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Car: 02 Passat GLX 4motion V6 AWD
I'm in process of replacing the rear strut and I can't remove the way bar link bolt out. It is really tight into the inner rubber and it won't buzz. The bolt sits in a way that I can't use a hammer.
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I have an 02 f150 2WD with a "leveling" kit. It was on the truck when I bought it. However, the front sets noticeably higher than the rear. The rear has lifting blocks, while the front has the lifted spindles as well as the coil spring spacers. At least I think they are spacers. I had to replace lower control arm bushings a while back, and there were black plastic rings on top of the springs. Can I remove the spacers? If I can, I plan on doing that and replacing the rear blocks with whatever I need to get the stance back. I like the height of the truck now, just hate the front being higher than the rear. I do pull my boat with it.
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I thought I would try and resolve this issue while I wait for the battery module to arrive.
I read through all of the past articles relating to my issue with no luck of resolution.
When the car is turned off, the steering wheel never locks. Even when I rock the steering wheel left and right it never locks.
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I've had this issue 2 times already but I usually just turn off the car and power it back up.
When I first turn on the car the P doesn't show up in the indicator to show what gear im in and I'm unable to come out of Park with the break pedal depressed all the way down, (break pedal became stiff) turner off and turned the car back on and same thing....
2013 Hyundai Sonata 2.0t ....
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I recently acquired an 02 explorer sport. Noticing a loud hum(similar to what knobby tires sound like) at 25-40 mph. Doesn't make noise at any other speeds. I replaced both front hubs, new shocks, new rotors and pads, sway bar links, even tried rotating tires, absolutely no change. Tires are a standard highway pattern , not luggy so I don't think it's those. Kinda lost on what to do next.
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2008 hyundai elantra. I'm trying to replace the rear brake pads and rotors. I was able to do the front ones easily. Any good tips to remove this rotor. I have tired tapping on a rotor and it wont budge.
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I am looking for 2002 explorer XLT front differential diagram.
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My 2002 Explorer XLT recently experienced a front wiper failure. Initial indications started a few months ago. When trying to turn the wipers on to the intermittent position, nothing would happen. Turning the switch to low or hi then back to intermittent would allow the intermittent to work OK. Issue seemed to be occasional (trying not to overuse intermittent).
A couple days ago, daughter takes off to meet pals, comes back saying wipers died completely, won't move, won't park, no response to any switch position. I checked it out and researched some of the relevant threads here. My findings thus far:
Front wiper int/lo/hi positions do not work
Front washer pump works fine
Rear wiper switch positions all work fine
High beam, low beam and flash-to-pass work fine
Left and right turn signals work fine.
I am figuring the MFS is probably not the problem.
Looking in the owners manual it seems that fuse #8 protects front and rear wash pump relays and front wiper motor relay. Since front and rear wash pumps actuate fine, I figure fuse #8 is OK and the pump relays (#4 & #6) are OK.
Fuse #20 protects the GEM and Memory Module. Since I am not experiencing any issues with dash lights, idiot lights, chimes, locks or other GEM associated items, I am guessing fuse #20 is OK and the GEM is OK.
This leads me to relays 54 (run/park) and 59 (hi/lo). Since the wipers will not run or park, I am guessing that the run/park relay is having an issue. I presume that the intermittent function is cotrolled by the GEM based on the Intermittent switch position
Am I missing anything or overlooking some complexity that should change my logic? Is it likely for the MFS to fail only the front wiper portion of the controls?
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My 2002 B5.5 Variant received some "tough love" in a parking lot recently, with the result that one of the front marker lights (in the fender ahead of the front wheel, on the side) was broken. I see that I can push on the light housing and it'll move in a bit, but how can I remove the cover (the colored plastic bit) entirely to replace it with a new, not-busted one?
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Can the hellwig sway bar links will work with an oem sway bar? I need new ones and figured why replace with something I know will fail early...
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My son ran off the road in a neighborhood and hit some large rocks along side the street. It punctured the front right side and obvioulsly damaged the steering because now it drives terribly and instead of the steering wheel handles being side to side it is 90 degrees perpendicular. The service station I use said it has a bent frame and will need to be taken to a body shop. Will the cost to fix it be worth it especially due to its age?
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I have a 2002 Ford Explorer Sport and after a brake job I noticed that while under braking at slow speed there would be a grinding sound on the front left. I replaced the brakes and wheel bearings the first time. After a while I ended up replacing the caliper itself but it still grinds. I don't notice any wheel shaking, pulling and it hasn't locked up although once I did notice a some smoke under hard braking but only once. I also don't hear any grinding while not braking.
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At my wits end on this. Left front brake is pulling ever so slightly on my '02 RWD Sport Trac. Just enough to annoy the crap out of me. Sometimes I hardly notice it. Over the past year or so I've flushed and bled the lines after replacing rear wheel cylinders, rebuilt the front calipers and replaced the rotors and pads. It's still pulling. Is there some electronic adjustment for the module that the brake lines come out of? Does the ECM control the pressures?
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I'm working on a 02 explorer. The front end is howling so I replaced the left side and no change. The howl goes away when braking. Is it the right side then or something else? I replaced both front brakes pads so it's not that.
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2002 ford explorer v8 4x4, ok I had some noise coming front the right maybe middle axle area so I pulled the driver's side tire and inspected all the bushings ball joints and hubs. The hub had a little play and so did the upper ball joint. So I replaced the hub thinking this could be the problem and the steering stabilizer bar (all the bushing on the bar where toast). Ever thing was tight but the upper ball joint still had a little play but not enough for me to spend the $ to replace the whole control are (as I am told you cannot replace just the ball joints you have to replace the whole control arm). Any way got it all back together and still same nose. What it could be? Also the four wheel low will not engage could this be part of the problem or one more thing un related ( the four high engages just not the low)...
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I have a 2010 4 door GTI. I'd like to install my daughter's front facing Britax child seat either in the rear right or rear central position. However, in either case, I'm finding that most of the rear weight ends up on the headrest and I would like to simply remove the headrest from that seating position.
I read in the user manual that to remove the headrest,I pull it to it's highest position and then push the button on the right side of the plastic entrance of the head rest into the seat, and 'simply' pull the headrest vertical out of the seat.
This is similar to how this was done in other cars I've owned. However it is not working for me with the GTI. Once I pull the headrest to the highest possible position I can get to, I press the button but the headrest simply refuses to come out. I've tried this on the other rear seat and same problem. With the middle rear seat I can't seem to pull the headrest out beyond its lowest position.
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