Ford - Explorer :: 2002 - Truck Having Hard Time Going Into Reverse Intermittently / Trans Slip In Normal Driving
Mar 6, 2013
He has a 2002 Explorer 4.6. The truck is having a hard time going into reverse intermittently, hard shift in normal driving and thinks it has slipped in first gear going up his driveway that is steep. He is worried that he put slightly over sized tires and this may hurt his tranny. The overdrive has blinked twice with in the year. Possible problems that could create this he is thinking solenoid pack, servos, torque converter. The truck has 110k and never done fluids, Would lucas slip fix or hurt we have heard that these tranny's are finicy.
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We are planning on taking our 07 Explorer in to the dealer to have them check on a couple of issues. 4.0 with auto and about 45,000 miles on the ody.
1. While taking off after waiting at a stop light or slow speed traffic crawling there is a high revving sound coming from the engine compartment. Sounds like the fan is over revving compared to the engine speed.
2. Recently the truck has a hard time going into reverse. Physically hard to move the gear select lever and there is a hard "thunk" when it does actually shift into reverse.
I just want to be armed with information before heading to the dealer. The truck is still under a warranty plan, I just need to be prepared. Could it have to do with the Transmission Range/Position Sensor?
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I got a 2000 ford explorer with 151k on it... Since iv had the truck (5yrs) its always had a slight slip around 3rd going to 4th. The tran is auto!!
I use to be able to jump in and take off but here lately i have to let the truck idl for a few sec or up to a min before i can take off (warm or cold). This just started a month ago...
The trans fluid smells burned and it has be 2yrs since iv changed fluid and filter in the tran...Everything other then that iv kept up to par. What do you think should i start looking for something new or just change filter and fluid????
I know the truck has had a good life so I am starting to think the tran maybe trying to go.... My friend has a 85 dodge ram charger suv not sure the miles but its auto as well....It has a 318. Other then a small dent the thing look good... It has some kinda vacuum leak major but doesn't effect running. He told me the leak is from something he had removed when we left CA that they said he had to have for smog?
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2011 SE leased in December 2010. I Now have 14,000 miles and my trans has started to slip.
First slip was yesterday on a a fully warmed motor while I was accelerating at a normal rate of speed. I am guessing the car was in 2nd gear (25mph) and the rpms shot all the way up to redline. I let off the gas, coasted for a few seconds and the trans engaged the gear and I kept driving. No cel
Today the same thing happened under the same conditions but this time when the trans re-engaged the gear, the car jerked forward pretty violently.
About 15 minutes later this happened again but at highway speeds (65mph) while cruising. Again, violent jerk and a thump when the trans caught the gear.
After all this I have no CEL. I know if I bring the truck to the dealer they are going to give me the old, "we cant reproduce the problem." Once the trans starts to slip like this the damage has already been done and its just a matter of time before I am stranded on the the side of the road.
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My 2002 excursion 7.3 is acting weird when in drive. I have to get to around 2k rpm to get moving and hard shifts. But if I put it in 1st it has no problem but in 2nd i have hard vibration that shakes whole truck.
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I own a 2002 W8 passat b5.5 that had issues from the used car dealer i had bought it from. I had 2 new motors installed over the period of about 13 months . The first motor had a bad torque converter and seemed to also cause my trans to slip. I am not sure if that is the direct cause of the trans slip going from 2nd to 3rd gear. The second motor dropped 4 valves in the cylinder "3" and cracked the starter. I had all the work done by the VW dealer that i used to work at.
As of today i seem to hear a knocking from idle to 5,000rpms, which is the highest ill push it. Now I know that a lot of of the W8 had issues with the torque converters. my current engine has just about 4k miles on it and I know vw warranties this motor up to 12k miles. That is not my concern, my concern is why do these motors keep failing under normal every day use in my particular vehicle?
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04' Ford Explorer - 4.6l Automatic 4x4 - 138,000 miles... While driving today my transmission hesitated a long time between 2-3 gear and RPM went higher than normal. After coming to a stop a taking off again, long hesitation, slams into 3rd gear, check transmission warning came on and OD light on dash was blinking. I drive it home and pull the code: P0745. I drop the pan and find a piece of metal 1/4 wide x 1/2 long. Does this mean a complete trans rebuild?
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Finally finished rebuilding my 5R55W transmission and have it back in the 2002 Explorer. Reverse works good, Drive works great, but I am having problems with it wanting to take a long time shifting from 2nd to 3rd. Have to let up on the accelerator in order for it to go into 3rd.
Goes into 3rd hard! 4th gear and 5th gear are finally back. I rebuilt it because I didn't have overdrive. When I didn't have overdrive, it would also take a long time to shift into 3rd and was hard.
Checked codes and am getting a "pending" P0745. Pressure Control Solenoid "A". What I need to start with?
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The truck:
2000 4X2 F150
4.2l V6
280k miles/ some towing
The problem : The trans has a hard time getting into 1st gear. When you put it into gear you have to rev it to about 3k (when it's warm, 4k when cold) RPMs at which time you feel a definite engagement and it goes through the rest of the gears just fine. Once it's warm it will do stop and go traffic as long as you start it with the OD off.
The background : Orobably the stock motorcraft filter on there, and I don't think the oil has been changed in the life of the trans, but I do know that it's never been ran low on fluid. I took a gander at it and found a plug where a gear type speedo went on older models to be loose and leaking. tightened it up about two full turns. also noticed what looks to be a leak where the main case meets the output shaft housing. now I know neither of these are the cause of my headache but I do wonder if the second leak might be a sign.
The research : I've been looking for almost a week now for a solution. I've been all over TCCoA, Explorer Forum,10 pages of search here on FTE and various other Ford based websites and have come across a single thread with the same symptoms but the OP never came back with a solution.
The plan : A fluid/filter change (and flush) is definitely in the plans as well as inline filter for my own satisfaction. from what I've read the stock 1-2 accumulator is known to go bad on some of these and if I have the pan off might as well check anyways.
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I have a 98 4door 4x4 auto. Reverse stopped working a year ago. The forward speeds work perfectly. I hate to have to rebuild the entire trans. I've been driving it some, being careful where I park, but getting tired of it. My question is do you have to pull and take the trans all the way apart to fix this?
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I got myself a 1997 explorer Australian model when I got it (here's the problem) if you put it in drive it will not engage but if put in first will drive normal then shift into second all good now u have push O.D then shift into drive all good (unless u slow down to almost a stop) ? New problem is, it has gone and lost reverse, put it in reverse and it engages with a small clank (normal) but just slips with any revs. I have read posts here talking about upper and lower valve body gaskets and transgo shiftkit which I have ordered but do there maybe more parts needed? Cause it's going to cost me lot just to put transmission fluid back in.
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The sensor on the dash by the windshield has fallen. I assume behind the dash. The DRL flash intermittently. So I turn my headlights on. How do I find this sensor that has fallen out of place. I assume that's why they flash ?
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I drive a 91 Silverado, v6, standard transmission.
While I was driving my truck seemed to slip out of gear and wouldn't go back in. About 10 seconds later it shut off. I was able to ride the momentum and pull over. It tries to start when I'm turning the key, but nothing. I've ruled out the distributor and the battery. All I can think now is: transmission ....
I've had problems with my distributor rotor from time to time, but no real indication that my transmission was having troubles.
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I Have a 1996 Ford Explorer XLT my problem is my truck will shift into reverse but nothing else. Whats wrong with my truck and how do I fix it...
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Just got myself a gently used Econoline E-350 7.3 Diesel and was loving it when she ran:
E-350 7.3 Diesel
Recently I have been having some charging issues. It started with it intermittently having a hard time to start, especially when it was warm. I carried a jump box with me and that always seemed to work. Then I noticed the voltmeter on the dash dropping. It went down to the 8 and I was like something is wrong.
Checked the battery voltage, it was at 9.6v. OK, maybe alternator isn't charging. Advance Auto tested the alternator, said it was bad. I replaced alternator. No difference. I pulled the battery and ran it on a conditioner to bring it up to proper voltage. It's now at 12.6v resting. Starts the van no problem. When running though the voltage doesn't increase to 13-14 volts like it should though telling me the alternator isn't doing it's job. Increasing engine RPM actually decreases voltage? Checked all the obvious things like bad grounds but everything seemed clean.
The only thing that was fishy was when I pulled the three way plug from the alternator, one of the pins had corrosion on it. I cleaned it up before installing the new alternator. I didn't do a diode test on the new alternator because I figured it was new, but hey maybe I got a lemon?
Anyway I'm going crazy trying to figure out where the problem is. All fuses are ok. Is there an external regulator or something I should be on the lookout for? Is there anything else that could be causing a non charging issue? The battery was manufactured in 2014 so it's relatively new.
And on a random note my ABS light is now on?
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I've seen this talked about before and it's happened to me before as well but now the tranny is leaking onto my Ypipe a couple times per week and it's giving me a hard time when I try to reverse. revs drop and it stalls if I don't give it enough gas.
So I know I have to change the seal but Ford is telling me the torque converter will need to be replaced but another transmission shop told me once the seal is changed and fluid level set appropriately I shouldn't have the reversing problem anymore?
Is this something I could attempt myself... looks almost like I'd have to move the exhaust to drop the tranny...
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1997 Ranger extended cab, 222k mi., 4 cyl, standard transmission. Shifting got worse until it finally died and the mechanic replaced the clutch "kit" and slave cylinder.
It still fights back going into 1st, 2nd, and reverse. But it is intermittent. If I put it in neutral, depress the clutch, and start the vehicle, then, after a few seconds wait, when I try to go into 1st (or reverse), it fights me back, forcing me to pause and apply about twice the pressure I should need to go into gear. When I go forward in 1st, and am ready to shift to 2nd, it fights back so that I have to pause just a bit and apply more pressure than I should for it to go into 2nd gear. 3rd, 4th, and overdrive are FINE. Also, the clutch seems to disengage about halfway down, where I was expecting it to disengage after only 10 -20% depression.
The mechanic doesn't see the problem (or won't admit it). Is there an adjustment to make the clutch disengage with only 10-20% depression instead of the 50%? Is that something I should be worrying about?
Is there some other problem? Like maybe the synchromesh mechanism in the transmission itself not bringing the transmission rotor to engine speed soon enough (wear on the synchromesh)?
When it was new, it went into ALL gears with ease, no fighting back, and it starrted doing this after about 150k miles. Now, at 222k mi., even with a new clutch, plate, throughout bearing, and slave cylinder, it still seems partially stuck going into 1st, 2nd, and reverse.
I just don't want to start replacing things until I can get a correct diagnosis as to what is causing the problem.
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What may have wrong with my trans on my truck... this is what its doing, I am able to put in drive and drive it for so long then its like the truck is in neutral and doesn't gain or maintain speed. but i can turn the truck off and put it in park and restart the truck and it will go again?? that is how i got it home....
the fluid is burnt now but wasn't that bad until the trans started doing this. I have pulled off the pan and inspected the filter and it does have metal debris in it, pulling the valve body off tonight before work (work 3rd shift) to inspect that, i think it has something to do with the solenoids or valve body because it actually moves but then quits until i restart the truck. Also does the transfer case use fluid from the transmission? or are the fluids separated between the 2.
Truck has 4.0L SOHC with a 5R55E in it 4WD...
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I am trying to track down where exactly a clunk is coming from on a 2003 Explorer 4x4(auto, hi, low). My buddy brought it by my house yesterday and i cannot pin point it. If you put the truck in reverse, once you hit the gas, it clunks pretty loud. If you just put it in reverse, let off the brake, it will not do it until you hit the gas.
I got the explorer up in the air and crawled under it. I had my buddy switch from forward to reverse, and back again. Every time he let off the brake in forward or reverse, it would clunk. The reverse clunk was definitely louder.
It does the clunks in all settings, -auto,hi,low. No flashing dash lights. The dash lights do come on accordingly. One thing he pointed out was the Auto,HI,Low Buttons themselves are not backlit anymore. Not sure if that has anything to do with it?
I cannot narrow it down as the whole transfer case, front driveshaft and front diff, shake with the clunk. U joints don't seem to have play (prying with small prybar). I then went ahead and unplugged the big wire connector at the transfer case and the clunk went away.
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2005 Sport Trac 4x4... So, my fiance purchased this new off the floor before i met her (or else she wouldn't have bought it). Had a motor issue which required a new motor after 90k miles.. Anyways, while driving on a normal road, i dropped the rear window and hear this whining noise. Checked the transmission fluid and it was a little low, nothing major. Topped it off with Mercon V... No effect. Where do i look next. It does not have a tow package. Do i check the transfer case, or rear differential?.I am thinking differential because the transfer case is more upfront to where the noise is. you cant hear it with front windows down. Only the rear sliding window or rear passenger's windows.
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I have a 2005 Ford F-150 with a 4.6L and auto tranny non 4 wheel drive. I have a hard time moving from park to drive and reverse. Is there a switch that lets you put it in gear once the brake pedal is depressed? Could that have gone bad?
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