I have an 02 Eddie Bauer V8 AWD that is making a ticking noise at low speeds ( under 10mph ) on the pass. side. It sounds like a rock in a hubcap noise. I have pulled the wheels and checked the CV boots and they are fine.
View 3 RepliesWhats making the vibration & noise, my 2006 Explorer V8 LTD 4X4 is making a weird noise (vibration) & I think its the front drive shaft CV between the transfer case & the front differential........ this happens when I`m moving & at any speed, I have brand new tires.
View 8 RepliesMy 2007 camry makes a clunk noise when I drive over a pothole on the passanger side of the car at low speeds. The noise comes from the rear passenger wheel area (which I tested with an empty trunk).
I took it to sears and they want to replacing the rear sway bar links and bushings for about $420. It seems like an easy job, so I took the car home and yanked on a bunch of suspension parts. The wheel doesn't have any play, the sway bar end links rotate slightly as you would expect a ball joint to rotate (towards to bumper or towards the hood).
The only play I could find is in sway bar itself, it moves left to right (driver side to passenger side) a little. In the picture below, there is a gap between the silver collar and the bushings. Is it possible that the bushings I have are too thin? Should they be tight against the silver collar to prevent sway bar movement?
Before I take my dads truck to the mechanic. He noticed a "noise" when running highway speeds, which does not occur often for his truck..a beautiful 2005 Eddie Bauer Explorer with the 5.0 V8. I need this checked as I drag a boat to the Fl Keys from NJ in 3 weeks and the truck needs to be 100%. He just replaced the tires as his mechanic told him it was tire whine, which you hear and dont feel. The wheel bearings have been replaced in the last 2 years and they just did ball joints. I drove it up the highway tonight and felt it right at 62 mph..go faster it got more pronounced and you could feel it in the drivers seat...not vibration on the steering wheel..above 85 and it kind of smoothed out, drop below 62 and it goes away..makes no difference if you are in the gas or not..feels like something spinning out of balance....I ran it for 30 minutes at 75 and then pulled into a Lowes parking lot and drove one set of tires up onto a curb so I could fit under the truck..I started at the back and touched everything in the drivetrain for see if anything was hot..the rear differential was warm, the ujoints were not, the transfer case was warm as was the front differential, but none of the u joints or cv joints were warm... 2005 Explorer 100,000k miles...
View 12 RepliesRecently had my tire guy replace only my front tires on my 03 Ford Explorer. Drove it on the highway and it felt and sounded like the transmission and drive train were hitting each other. Having him now replace the rears as well. Hopefully, they will now be happy together. Fronts were new rears were worn and different tires. Will the new tires reset everything I screwed up?
View 7 RepliesI have a Jetta with 130,000 miles. At around 35-50mph during acceleration, I can feel a wobble that would seem to be coming from the driver side drive train. I don't hear any noise with this just the wobble/vibration.
Never wrecked, 5spd manual. If I am not accelerating or putting stress on the drive train, the wobble stops.
I am guessing it could be bad tranny mount, I've looked at it put some hand force on it and jiggled it around a bit and mount seems to have a little bit of play not sure if that's normal if i really try the mount it moves back and forth very little movement but some and if i can move it easily I am sure the engine can beat it up
ALSO my axle came out or broke recently so replaced it with one from advanced auto parts also another possible culprit.
I recently got Gibson Performance Headers on my 2006 Ford F150. And when you cold start it or just start it period it has a odd ticking noise on the passenger side.
View 3 RepliesKind of stuck on a slight noise from the drive train on our 2007 Avy. It is not engine noise at a certain RPM it is from rolling at speed. I first rotated the tires and there was no difference at all. I thought it sounded like a CV going out so I replaced the left shaft. No luck. I could still hear it as it increases from nothing being stopped to being able to be felt slightly in the steering wheel either traveling straight or turning the worst between 60 and 65 MPH.
I replaced the right CV shaft and noticed slight wear in the support bearing and the support bearing bracket pinch bolt's rubber pad was worn in half. Ok, new CV shaft, new pinch bolt, tightened to specs, no luck. Ok, onto wheel bearings. I could still feel it in the steering wheel and it "sounded" like it was coming from the left side. I even rode as a passenger and moved about trying to get a better idea where it was coming from. I was convinced it was on the left so I pressed out the old bearing and installed new. No luck, same sound at the same speeds.
I replace the right wheel bearing (replacing a front wheel bearing on this car is not a fun job). Slightly better but still there. It's a subtle noise now but at the same speeds. I guess it could be a rear wheel bearing assembly but maybe I am missing something obvious.
I have a tick in my 2001 V10, 190,000 (mostly easy) miles. I've changed oil/filter regularly at 3,000 mile intervals using Valvoline 5W20.
The tick seems to be on the passenger side of the engine, and is loudest when the engine is cold. It follows engine speed. The tick seems to be loudest as the engine transitions from acceleration to deceleration when I lift the throttle--I've NOT seen that posted before.
So, an exhaust manifold leak seems to be the most obvious? I installed a Banks Power Pack with Torque Tube headers in 2009 (about 90,000 miles ago) using thread lock compound on the supplied bolts and torqued to the instructions--I don't' remember the torque setting, but will look it up. I've listened to each exhaust port with a mechanic's stethoscope, all I hear is a smoothly running rotating assembly! Same result with the stethoscope on either side of the front cover (for timing chain slap.) NO tick through the stethoscope! I plan to check all the header bolts' torque this weekend, but don't really expect to find a problem. I will also scoot under the truck and recheck all the exhaust pipe clamps.
I've also listened to all the injectors--two of them (#3 and #4) were noticeably quieter than the other eight. But, none of them stood out as being particularly noisy. I've seen a couple of threads here that asked what a normal injector should sound like, but never an answer. How they should sound?
I've listened to each coil. I can hear a slight arc on #3. I believe the spring in the boot is not seated on the coil tab correctly (happened before.) I will correct that this weekend also. Nothing sounded like a loose plug, though I don't really know what that would sound like with the stethoscope.
What else could/should I check to avoid removing the valve/cam covers? (For cam follower or rocker trouble). I don't mind doing that, but don't want to go to the trouble and then find it wasn't necessary. I may spin on a Motorcraft filter (I'm just 800 miles into the last oil change now, I usually use Fram) but the tick stays with me until the engine is normal operating temperature, so I don't think it is from bleed back.
I have a V6. Very happy with it...no real problems, but I do notice a fair amount of drive train gear lash noise when the vehicle is coasting and the windows are open. Is this normal? It not like it sounds really bad and hasn't gotten worse in the 2500 miles since I have my Treg...but I would like to know if it is normal.
View 10 RepliesSo on my 2003 F250 SCLB 4x4, I I was driving 70 or 80 miles to Huron in Ohio, to pick up a boat for a buddy with my truck. On the way up I heard a new clattering noise coming from the suspension or drive train, and we couldn't figure out what it was. After picking up the boat and coming back home without a problem, I looked under the truck and couldn't see any U-joints loose, But I saw that my right rear backing plate was disintegrated and gone. I took the truck to the shop and they said that the noise I'm hearing is the guts of the emergency brake pads and pins bouncing around in there when I drive and that my rear wheel could lock up at any time.
View 14 RepliesI have a 1996 Ford Explorer (4WD model). Approximately 4 months ago I had a new set of tires put on it, and in the process of replacing the tires the shop noticed that I had a bad ball joint and one of my wheel bearings was going bad. They said the ball joints were known for completely failing, but the wheel bearings usually didn't, so they recommended that the ball joint be replaced first. That is what I had them do. I haven't had the money to get the wheel bearing replaced yet. This past week it got worse to the point where I can hear it now.
At low speeds I can hear a grinding/rattling-type noise from the front drivers side (that's the side that has the bad wheel bearing). At higher speeds the grinding/rattling-type noise fades away due to road noise, but I can still hear a humming-type of noise that is a bit loader than normal - this noise just started a couple of weeks ago so I'm suspecting that this might also be related to the bad bearing.
I won't have the money to get this fixed for another 2 weeks. In order for me to have the money in 2 weeks I will need to continue working at my job 2 days a week. It's approximately 2 hours round-trip from my home to my job. Obviously with the bearing sounding significantly worse I don't want to drive it any more than I have to, but the only way I can get the money to fix it is to keep driving it back and forth to work.
Here's my question. What risks am I running by continuing to drive this? Am I running the risk of the wheel falling off while I'm driving down the freeway at 70 mph? Am I likely to experience other damaged parts in that area of the vehicle?
Sound coming from the engine and it is coming from the passengers side of the engine. The year is 2003, LS model, and four wheel drive. Well, I took it in yesterday and the mechanic said it was the "Camshaft" and this was a normal sound. Not to mention I have had this vehicle in for 6 other problems: 3 times for the four wheel drive light malfunctioning, 2 times for the service engine light coming on and then they had to replace a seal on the left front deferential because it was leaking oil.
View 14 RepliesMy Accent is making a ticking sound in the rear passenger side. When I slow down it becomes a grinding sound. The car only has 19k. I have scheduled a appointment to get it looked at....
View 2 RepliesI just bought a 2002 corolla with a salvage title. I am having trouble with the front passenger side vibration at high speeds 50mph on up. It had the vibration when I bought it and I put 4 brand new tires on it, and had the front end aligned and had a fellow mechanic look at it and and said everything up front was tight. The guy I bought it from said he had the front brakes just done but I feel a pulsating as when I apply the brakes. My fellow mechanic said he would turn the rotors next week, my question is what would be my next step if that not it, axle? I really wouldn't car but I drive this car 150 miles a day to work and its all highway.
View 2 RepliesI have a 2004 Chevy cavalier with 133,000 miles. For the last week I have been hearing a ticking noise - seems to be coming from inside the dash board on the passengers side (glove compartment). The ticking noise begins when the engine starts up and stops when the engine stops, so the noise is continuous while the engine is running. The car runs well, no loss in power, nothing out of the ordinary, with the exception of the noise. I opened the hood and listen - the sound seems to come from inside the firewall.
View 5 RepliesDad has a 2010 F150 CC SB. it has the 5.4 in it. Ever since day one it has had a noticeable tick in the valve train. But it can only be heard inside the truck when there is no other noise... Open the hood and its not there. Ford dealer told dad that it was normal, and that the firewalls are just not thick enough where it gets really close to the engine and that the sound is transferred to the firewall.
NEXT question... Not always, but sometimes when the truck is started cold, it will puff white smoke.... Every time dad has had it at the dealer they say they cannot ever see it. Curious if any of your trucks have this issue, before I take it back there with again, asking to go start every truck on the parking lot listening for the tick and the smoke...
Having problems with a squeaking or ticking noise coming from the front windshield area on the passenger side? I took off the A-pillar and tweeter speaker cover, and the noise was still there. Pressing on the A-pillar did not work and it's not any of the cords or plastics in there rubbing. It almost sounds like it's behind the A-pillar. Pressing on the dash, windshield, headliner, etc. all have no effect on the noise.
I'm trying really hard to fix this myself because I'm worried about a tech tearing apart the dash trying to fix it. It might end up worse than it is now. I'm thinking this TSB will need to be done (which seems to apply to all Toyotas): [URL] ....
Next on my list to check is the passenger side mirror (make sure it's fastened securely) and also the black liner under the windshield wipers. I also have foam (like the kind you use when installing a window AC) which I may also try stuffing into the bottom of the front windshield (and maybe the top) to see if that works.
If all else fails, the car is going to the dealer I guess. The Camry is such a quiet car that the noise is really irritating in an otherwise quiet interior. Other than this noise, the car is great! Just a little bummed because my 2005 has zero rattles or noises and my gf's old 2009 also had no rattles or noises. The 2015 refresh is nice, though we're still on the fence about the front grille. My relative is waiting for the 2016's to be released later this year and then he will be buying one for his patrol car. The 2015 isn't a full redesign but it looks different enough that he wants to wait for the next MY to come out. He's dreading leaving behind his 5MT Civic but it needs to be replaced. He hasn't had an auto, ever, come to think of it..
It sounds exactly like this, and is at its worse when accelerating: [URL] ....
99 Passat 1.8 Turbo 4 cyl. Noticing a ticking in the valve train. Louder @ cold start. Can't hear it on acceleration, just when sitting. Sometimes it won't do it at all. But most recently it's constant. The other morning I cranked on and the CEL came on.
Took it to mechanic, he let it set for while to cool down, restarted and the CEL was off (hasn't come back on), he could hear the ticking, thought maybe the timing belt needs to be replaced or adjusted, the 02 sensor or possibly week lifters?????
July 06' VW did a "desludge" (for free!) and replace all parts having to do w/ oil and filled w/ synthetic. So that's not the problem. My mechanic isn't familiar with VW valve trains, belts, lifters, heads etc. He's done a great job on everything else, but acts like he's really scared to open this can of worms.
I have 02 Limited 4.6 with 128k and upon startup there's no noise (sometimes misfire, due to oil in plug wells, gonna change the intake mani and coils soon). Shortly after it warms up - 5 minutes or so there is a constant ticking at idle...I can't really tell if its there upon acceleration as I can't notice it with the window open when I'm driving, but as soon as I slow down and/or idle I hear it again.
If I let the car sit for a few hours, or while I'm at work, it starts up perfectly fine, no noise.
I tried the long screw driver trick - putting it to different parts of the engine and placing my ear over the handle, and didn't really notice anything different from any part of the engine. I had it up on my lift, and it almost sounded like it was coming from the rear - near the tranny, but what the hell would tick back there? and how do I diagnose that?
I dropped the oil pan when I first got it and there was a very little amount of black rubbery stuff - presuming its timing chain guide/tensioner related, but no chunks, not really any metallic shimmer in the oil, so I guess it could be that, I'm gonna pop the valve cover off and inspect - but like I said, didn't notice anything with the screwdriver trick....I'm at a loss
My X has had a vibration in the drive train since I bought it. I have been through 3 sets of tires and a new rear end with no significant change.
I recently replaced the u-joints, and the vibration changed. Instead of being pronounced upon deceleration, the vibration was somewhat lessened, and only occurred around 55 mph when the truck was neither accelerating or decelerating; when the throttle and speed were at an equilibrium. It was reduced further when I reduced the air pressure in the tires. It is reduced, but is still there.
I would like to get this fixed before my spring break trip.