Ford - Explorer :: 2002 - Ticking / Knocking Only After Warm Towards Rear Of Engine?
Mar 15, 2016
I have 02 Limited 4.6 with 128k and upon startup there's no noise (sometimes misfire, due to oil in plug wells, gonna change the intake mani and coils soon). Shortly after it warms up - 5 minutes or so there is a constant ticking at idle...I can't really tell if its there upon acceleration as I can't notice it with the window open when I'm driving, but as soon as I slow down and/or idle I hear it again.
If I let the car sit for a few hours, or while I'm at work, it starts up perfectly fine, no noise.
I tried the long screw driver trick - putting it to different parts of the engine and placing my ear over the handle, and didn't really notice anything different from any part of the engine. I had it up on my lift, and it almost sounded like it was coming from the rear - near the tranny, but what the hell would tick back there? and how do I diagnose that?
I dropped the oil pan when I first got it and there was a very little amount of black rubbery stuff - presuming its timing chain guide/tensioner related, but no chunks, not really any metallic shimmer in the oil, so I guess it could be that, I'm gonna pop the valve cover off and inspect - but like I said, didn't notice anything with the screwdriver trick....I'm at a loss
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I have a 2007 2.7L with 150,000 miles. Yesterday while driving at 20mph my engine all of a sudden started knocking like I lost the timing belt which I replaced 10,000 miles back, including the tensioner fully (bought as a kit off Rock auto). I parked immediately. Today we investigated a little more and what we found is that os is more like a loud knock and not a metal on metal sound. It definitely knocks faster or slower with the RPM of the engine. It even ceased for a while and the engine idles silently but then on the next restart it came back.
It even went away again with an increase in RPM but then came back at an idle or sometimes didn't. You can clearly hear it in the rear of the block. I will admit I have never changed the plugs. We can a scan on it and a misfire in #4 cylinder came up. Unfortunately my check engine light is always on because I have a bad sensor in my fuel tank that ill get to some day. So I'm not sure if that code is recent or not. I know I need to identify the location of the sound more closely before anyone touches my motor. Could it be bad gas that causes a misfire and knocking? I have had that code before and new gas fixed the misfire but there was no knocking then. I religiously change my oil every 5000 miles and just did 500 miles ago.
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My Ford Explorer blows warm air instead of hot air and it's getting colder and my windows get fogged up. I fixed my clicking sound behind the dash.
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have 2002 Explorer with 4.6l that stalled at a stop light and upon restart, there was noticeable ticking and a sucking sound. The exhaust regularly sucks your hand against the pipe. Ticking is from all around the engine. Exhaust smells like rotten eggs.
Son was driving and we just got it back to house so I do not know much more than that. Where to start to diagnose.
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I have an 02 Eddie Bauer V8 AWD that is making a ticking noise at low speeds ( under 10mph ) on the pass. side. It sounds like a rock in a hubcap noise. I have pulled the wheels and checked the CV boots and they are fine.
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Well I was recharging my a/c yesterday because the system was low so I used one of them 24oz cans and now I am getting cold air out of my passenger side and luke warm air out of my driver side vents. Also if I switch to the different vents I don't get anything out of the floor only. I get air out when I select it, but it's coming out of the defrost. Other than that everything else works just fine, just no floor. I've read issues with the blend doors but my vehicle doesn't have the dual climate controls so I'm at a loss...
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5.0 coyote exhaust leak .. Since the cold weather has arrived i have noticed a new noise. During cold start engine warm up I hear a nice little tick-tick-tick which sounds to me like an exhaust leak. Is this a common problem? I have just over 58,000 miles would this be covered under powertrain or do they have some nice exclusions for exhaust?
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Its getting worse. Noticed it a month or so ago, very slight ticking noise when the engine was cold. It would go away after a minute or two when the engine warmed up. Kinda sounded like a lifter ticking type noise when low on oil but I was not low on oil.
Now its getting more noticeable and it doesn't go away. Very noticeable when I take off or accelerate. less noticeable when I take my foot off the gas but its still there.
What it might be? I am pretty newbie about engines and I don't want some repair outfit telling me I need a rebuilt engine if all I need is to tighten my manifold or something. Because that would be my luck.
2000, XLT, 5 Liter V8, 178K miles.
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Just a quick question, my 2006 4.6 explorer has a ticking noise when you first start it up. It lasts for about 10 seconds and goes away. Sounds like a valve tappet when the oil needs changed etc. It has been running 5-w-20 in it like the book says. I'm going to change it again and see if it works. Any luck changing to a different grade.10w-30?
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I dropped my car(2003 explorer XLS) for a brake pad work at an auto shop. but when I went to pick it up, the engine made big knocking noise when starting. the mechanic told me seems the engine having problem. he was shock too because he admitted the car was fine when I dropped it.
He didn't do anything except the brake work and top of some oil(I told him to check the coolant and oil level). I towed it to dealer and was told the engine is bad, I need a new engine. he didn't give exact diagnosis, said that will cost more than $900. he also said the mechanic seems didn't do anything wrong.
The car doesn't show any other symptom except the noise, what might be the problem? I want to try whatever I can before rebuild the engine.
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When the engine of my 2007 Camry LE V6 is cold, it makes a ticking/knocking sound. The engine has 100,000 kms on it (60k miles). The frequency of the sound varies with the speed of the engine, not with the speed of the car.
When engine is cold: The sound happens roughly twice a second when the engine idles (at 700-800 rpm).
When engine is warm: The noise is less audible. It can be heard when idled at a stop, but you have to listen for it. The noise cannot be heard on the highway.
The car doesn't burn oil, and the oil level is ok. I had the oil changed 3000 kms ago, and it is still very clean (clear). The was the same before and after the oil change.
I am wondering if it could be the lifters, bad plug, or maybe a timing issue.
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I just purchased a 2010 RX 350, has only 7k miles on it. Really, really nice car. I noticed for the first time yesterday the engine ticking/knocking/rattling/whatever you want to call it sound when starting up on a cold start. It definitely goes away after about 5-10 minutes of running.
Most people seem to accept this as "normal". They hear it, live with it, and they never have any problems. I am a new Lexus owner, so I have trouble digesting that such a luxury vehicle with so few miles would have a "normal" engine knocking sound at 7,000 miles.
A few people posted in other places that this is indeed an issue, and should not be happening. There is a a Toyota (Lexus) service bulletin that I didn't get the details on, it is LSB-0028-09. LEXUS: ENGINE TICKING NOISE AND/OR MIL ON P0014, P0015, P0024, P0025, P0017, OR P0018. ENGINE MECHANICAL. *PE
Looking for details on this service bulletin, and if it does indeed apply to the engine knocking sound.
- Premium gas
- High viscosity cold synthetic oil
- Dealer fixes issue
- Other fix?
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It's a 2006 hyundai sonata LX.
Now Is it anything I should worry about? Car has 72000 on it. Always used synthetic Mobil 1 5w 30.
This is on a completely cold start up, 30 degrees outside. Only makes the noise until car warms up. Anything I can do to prevent this? Or is it not something to worry about? Should I just let the car warm up a little before I drive it?
[URL]...............................
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I just punches a 2010 Camry 4 cylinder with 44,646 miles. Very clean. I've owned 2 camrys in the past a 97 and 2002 that both reached well over 200,00 miles without a hint of trouble. Well, when I start the 2010 when its cold like from overnight it sounds like the lifter are ticking?, it lasts until the engine is warm and then I don't hear it. It still has the 2 month 3000 mile warranty from the dealer. I just don't seem to remember our other Toyota sounding that way.
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I have a 2001 Toyota Tacoma that has a knock or ticking in cold weather. The problem starts sometimes immediately after I start and other times it is only when I press on the gas in the cold mornings after a few min warm up. The noise goes away after 10 min. The question I am wondering is this:
1: could it be worn piston rings and the pistons are slapping the cylinder wall
2: is it an oil pump problem or a oil restriction issue
3: is it a valve guide issue
4: with the history of the 2.7 having exhaust manifold issues (poor manufacturing) could a cracked manifold be the issue
I change the oil myself, the oil filters have been OEM toyota, the noise has been going on since 60,000 miles, the truck is at 230,000 miles.
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I'm looking at a dirt cheap Explorer 4.0, has been sitting for 2 years. Runs nice, with a double "knock" noise but quieter than a rod knock. Idles smooth at 600 rpm, "knock" is consistent, but increases as engine increases speed. Has 2 year old oil, and 2 year old gas. Would a tune up support it, and revitalize it, or is the engine almost dead. Still drives, didn't push it to hard. Interior is 9/10, exterior is 10/10. I have him down to 600. 4x4 works, and feels good.
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NO RESPONCE TO REr wiprt control ?
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I have a 2002 Explorer that had a whining rear, changed it out with a good rear out of my parts truck and now I have an ABS light on. It says something about input to the sensor and output from the sensor and left and right wheels. 4 Codes in all. I changed the speed sensor in the top of the rear to the one that was in this truck because the light wasn't on before and it still has this light.
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Soon my rear shoes will need replacing in my '02 . I've given up searching for info on how to replace them. Seems all the links I find are for vehicles that have rear disc brakes and mine are drums. Is this a do-able thing or should I just hand it over to a shop? I've done my share of brake jobs on other vehicles but not this would be my first Ford.
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I have a 02 Explorer that has 2 cracked rear coil springs.
How hard are they to change ?
What brand to use ?
I was looking at the Monroe Quick-Strut.
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The rear differential center section on my wife's 02 Explorer has a slow drip that appears to be coming from the rear cover plate. I have worked on the solid 8.8 and 10.25 axles but never on a independent center section. Does the whole center section have to be lowered to change the seal on the cover? If so, do the axles have to be pulled to do so?
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