My wifes 2002 explorer stopped taking fuel at the gas station. You can only put about 1/10 of a gallon in before it clicks off. I have already dropped the tank and checked the fill and vent tubes, and looked inside both of the charcoal canisters on top of the tank. Everything looks perfectly fine?
View 14 RepliesI got an 02 explorer xlt with the manual heater control and I've noticed now that it's getting colder it seems like my windshield and side windows are taking forever to clear up when they are foggy. When I put my hand up by the window or the vents for the driver/passenger side windows there's barely any air movement, and that is even when the blower is on the maximum level.
Another thing I've noticed is if I set it to floor only, it blows out the defrost. Same for the defrost only, I can feel some air blowing onto my feet. So what to look for when I pull this into a garage and start to looking around. I also changed the coolant and put in a new thermostat about a month ago, if that's of any importance.
I was told by the dealer it would be over 150 to scan and do a fuel trim on my 02 Explorer, XLT, 4.0, Auto. I can't afford the scan or a garage. I paid 4200 for it and a short time later it starts surging at stop lights then it starts sputtering when idling and taking a while to start. Next it stops accelerating past 2.5k, then works well a bit then stops accelerating past 50 miles an hour. Then it works with an 02 disconnected then starts acting up again. It now either runs normal, wont accelorate past certain ranges, or starts then quits 3 seconds later, unless I unplug the MAF then it runs 15 seconds then stalls. Through all this symptoms come and go. Always banks 1 and 2 lean.
Symptoms
Knock
Rough Idle
Slow Starts
Hesitation
Lag
Stall
Replaced
02 Sensors
Fuel Filter
Injectors
Plugs
Plug Wires
Tested
Maf
TP
Temp Sensor
Cam Sensor
Crank Sensor
All EGR Components
Idle Valve
Coil Pack
For any air leaks.
Fuel pressure 37 or higher
Clean Fuel Pump Strainer
Flow tested pump
Checked air filter
I am the original owner of the 02 Explorer with 157K miles and recently started smelling antifreeze when I pull into the garage and turn the truck off. I had the water pump replaced less then 10K miles ago. Sometimes the overflow will expel some antifreeze but that has stopped. I checked and there are no leaks, that I can see. Needle on the temperature gauge reads right in the middle. What to check for? Could it be a radiator cap causing too much pressure?
View 2 RepliesMy entry pad on the outside of the drivers door stopped working on my 2002 Explorer. Not only does it not open the doors but they don't light up when push the buttons. I looked in the owners manuel for a fuse related to this but did not see one. Which fuse the number pad is controlled by?
View 5 RepliesI have a 2002 ford explore 4.0 sport 4wd. I have a problem with my car, one day I tried starting the car and it didn't want to start. So i replaced the fuel filter and the car started. then after starting it a few times it didn't want to start anymore, so i took of the fuel tank (thinking bad gas, and there was stuff in the gas) so i take out the old gas out and put new gas, and bought a new fuel pump and filter, and when i put the gas tank back on the car, it still didnt want to start, so i take the fuel pump and find a random battery and connected it to the fuel pump and the pump spins so it works. I connected the pump to the car by itself not it the fuel tank (from underneath the car) and i was under the car to see if the pump turns on and someone tuned the car on, and the pump doesn't turn on (doesn't spin or anything). Long Story short, what i should do? Also I was looking for the fuel pump fuse and couldn't find it (thinking it might be the fuse) what is the fuse number or where its located.. i know where the fuel pump relay is, but just not the fuse. Why the pump wouldn't turned on??? The pic is how my fuse box looks like(there are many different version of the fuse box just wanted to show you how mine looks)...
View 11 Replies2003 SC430 with ~140k miles. Friday night, stopped at a gas station and left the car running for about 15 minutes. Then stopped the engine and left the radio on for about 20 minutes. Then the car wouldn't start- cranked weakly, then began clicking. Jumped the car- took about five minutes before it would turn over again.
Then, after disconnecting the cables and running for only about a minute, it cranked strongly twice in the span of a minute. I found that strange, not believing that it had properly charged up that quickly. Drove to an auto parts store, asked them to check the battery and such. Battery said good, alternator said voltage regulator failure.
After about 10 minutes, went to drive off, not planning to stop until I got to my destination. The car wouldn't start again, same weak turning and then clicking (note- this after about a fifteen minute drive, as opposed to the first one minute of charging after which it started twice just fine!). So I was surprised that it wouldn't crank.
Then I drove it all weekend without a problem (5-6 stops and starts). Then Monday night after I parked it, I went back to check it and it didn't start (same weak turn, and then clicking). Tuesday morning, I tried twice and got weak turn & clicking, then it turned a little more strongly and started.
My guesses:
-don't think my battery is bad
-don't think my battery really was fully discharged and then suddenly recharged even though it has seemed that way, in such short time frames
-my alternator claims to be bad (voltage regulation)
-maybe I have some sort of loose connection on the backside of the battery? (the terminals look solid)
But I didn't shake or bump the car, or do anything for the cabling to be loose/bad Monday night, and then start Tuesday morning. But perhaps the very effort of trying to start the car is enough to shake a connection back together?
(I don't think this is at all related to my blower post- my fan seems to be kicking on quite frequently while I drive, still trying to sort that out).
My parent's bought a 2002 Explorer 4.0 V6 very early, either late '01 or early '02 when it first came out. Besides the dash blackout (which I found a fix for, need to do) it's been plauged latley (since Nov/Dec 2010) with the intermittent issue of when... You turn the key on to start, you dont hear the fuel pump enguage, thus no start. Get towed, it works like a champ.
It's blown a fuse 1 or 2 times cause of this, had the fuel pump recently replaced (dec/jan this year) and just did it again. Our local Ford dealership figured the fuel pump went bad from sitting, the vehicle only has about 33k miles on it (dad dont drive much). What appears to be a bad fuel pump, only to have it get towed, or sit overnight and start like nothing ever happened?
Dad's ranting about not trusting the vehicle anymore, he's 80yrs old so I can't blame him for wanting to feel comfortable with knowing his vehicle should start, but it is a machine, they do break but we cant seem to get this fixed.
It is on random times that after I fill up at a gas station, my truck decides it does not want to start. In fact 99% of the failure to start issues only happen after a fill-up. I am typing this now on just such a non-starter issue. Waiting 20 min and it fires right up. During regular driving, runs like a champ, great power good milage (for a 7.3) ...
I have tried random "tests" such as driving to the store, waiting for the duration of time it would take to full up my tank and it starts no problem. Anytime I try to make it happen I cant. The fuel filter is clean, CPS is new, the fuel pump is working. Don't know if it is a temp sensor thing sending wrong info glow plug issue, or? Ghost in the machine?
its 2002 7.3 with 125000 miles. I have had the truck for four years and this issue just started last fall (oct 2016). It happens infrequentaly enough to forget about it until it happens again.
In the last month or so I'very had trouble with my 2002 Explorer having trouble accelerating. When I take off from a light it hesitates badly. It feels like it's got air in the tank. It does it every time I need to accelerate, including coming around turns. I'very put in fuel injector cleaner and it works fine for a little while, but then has the same issue. Yesterday morning it wouldn't turn over in the morning. I changed out the battery, but I had a similar issue of not turning over. It eventually did. I was wondering if the two might be related. Could it be a fuel pump or fuel pump relay?
View 1 RepliesI've got a 2002 Ford Sports Trac that won't start ! It will crank till battery dies but is not getting fuel. I have had it towed 4 times in the past year. of the 4 times,this last time it wont start. Every time that I have had it towed back to my house and dropped in the driveway it has started up with no problems. It will run for a few months or more.This last time it would not.
Could this be an electrical problem.Maybe loose ground somewhere or something else. Would like to rule out some things before investing in a fuel filter or fuel pump. Would hate to buy new FuelPump and that not be the problem. Can't find free wiring diaghrams for this issue.
I have a 2008 4wd V8 Ford Explorer Limited. About 9 months ago I had both front wheel bearings replaced. Immediately after they were replaced, I noticed a strange, new symptom. When taking off from a stop (either headed straight or turning), about 10-20% of the time I will get some wheel slippage.
I can feel the gears slipping, I don't think the tires are actually spinning and I'm definitely not flooring it and losing traction due to engine torque. When this slippage occurs, the loss of traction light goes on, and it always goes away in a matter of seconds and then everything is fine.
Once I noticed this happening I took it to the Ford dealership but they couldn't diagnose it since I couldn't mimic the problem with them riding in the car. They said it shouldn't have anything to do with the wheel bearings they replaced, but I think there may be an electrical connection that wasn't re-attached properly??
I go to get fuel tonight as my wife gets home with "that" look on her face. Car is at a quarter tank. Go to pump put in the nozzle and start pumping. The nozzle stops and I can hear gurgling from the tank. Here is a pic of how much goes in. So I now pull the fuel nozzle out a tad and proceed to keep putting gas in slowly. Here is a shot.
After I do this the car takes more fuel and I continue until I can see the small bubbles. Understand that fuel is not leaking anywhere. Its not coming out of the sides or anything. I am also not filling it up to the point in overflows out. Here is a pic of the total fuel when I am done.
Is this normal? I have to do this every time. I noticed on a 987-S Boxster I had the tank did not vent properly cause the same thing would happen. Trick I would do is rotate the fuel nozzle 180 degrees up and it would fill up completely. I tried doing this on the Lexus and it didn't work.
I've had a 1999 explorer for a few months. The transmission has always taken a couple of seconds to "catch" in drive and was then fine. Today, I had to tow another car a short distance and now going into drive directly is useless.
I must shift into 2nd and then back into drive. Then, for the most part, the car drives fine unless I have to put it in Park or in Reverse. Then I must repeat the procedure.
The fluid is fresh and the dipstick shows a slight overfill. Is there anything I can do about this or is this the death of the transmission. If I can run it another couple of years, I'd be satisfied.
Finally finished rebuilding my 5R55W transmission and have it back in the 2002 Explorer. Reverse works good, Drive works great, but I am having problems with it wanting to take a long time shifting from 2nd to 3rd. Have to let up on the accelerator in order for it to go into 3rd.
Goes into 3rd hard! 4th gear and 5th gear are finally back. I rebuilt it because I didn't have overdrive. When I didn't have overdrive, it would also take a long time to shift into 3rd and was hard.
Checked codes and am getting a "pending" P0745. Pressure Control Solenoid "A". What I need to start with?
We've had two problems within the last week with our 2002 Sport Trac (4.0l SOHC engine w/167,xxx miles). They may be unrelated, but I suspect there's good change they are. Both incidents happened while my 16 yo daughter was driving, so there's only very limited info on what happens. Both times, when I get there, it starts and runs fine. There is no CEL.
The first time it apparently stalled as she neared her destination after driving only about 2-3 miles at 35 mph or less after a cold start. She was slowing to pull into a parking lot and reported the dash lit up with warning lights, no power steering assist and no power brakes and no power from the engine. When I arrived it started and ran normally. She had fulled up the day before after two days of heavy rain, so I suspected water in the gas. I drove it more than 200 miles within the next 24 hours under a variety of conditions and filled up at a different station. I experienced no problem what-so-ever, and didn't bother adding any dry gas.
Then 5 days later (still on my fill-up) when she tried starting it after sitting all day, she reported the engine started but ran rough before stalling and never idled normally.
Doesn't the fact there's no CEL eliminate a lot of the upstream part of the control system......like sensors and actuators? This leaves things like the downstream parts of the fuel and ignition systems. I.e. from the fuel tank / pump to the injectors and the downstream parts of the ignition system.
What are the possible culprits? Fuel pump, fuel pressure regulator, injectors, ignition module, spark plugs, and....... what else? (I'm not that familiar with what these engines have) And of the possibilities, what are the most likely causes.
I have a 2000 Expedition that hesitates and sometimes stalls when taking off from a dead stop. The problem is not consistent and therefore hard to diagnose. I have had it to the dealership and two other mechanics and none of them have been able to fix the problem. So far they have replaced the intake gasket, fuel filter, EGR and PCV valves and have changed the PFE sensor and connecting lines. It seems they are just throwing parts at the problem and haven't a clue what is wrong. There are no error codes in the computer.
So far I have spent around $1,500 on this problem and it is not any better from when I started and it might actually be a little worse. I seem to think the problem is in the fuel system and not electrical because all lights and gauges function normally when the problem happens. I can also sometimes produce the hesitation by shifting the transmission into second gear while going around 50 mph then giving it a good bit of throttle after the engine revs. What could be going on.
I have a 2002 Ranger with a 2.3 lt engine and a 5R44E Transmission. Has 120,oookms (75,000 miles) I have an issue.
Here is what was happening: Would not shift into Drive...took a long time to do so.... and had a 2 to 3 gear flare.
Here is what I did: Replaced the valve body gaskets. Improved a lot. The 2 to 3 shift flare has gone. The delayed shift into D is mostly gone BUT still takes 15 to 20 seconds to shift into D. Once in gear no problems shifting. Does not slip and NO OD light flashing.
What do I need to do to fix the delayed shift issue.
I have finally gotten my 93 Explorer back on the road. Now I have a few things that I am trying to get fixed.
The first things that I need to get repaired is my Fuel Sending Unit replaced. How hard is this and what kind of pitfalls am I looking at.
The problem that I am having is that my fuel gauge is never right. The other day I ran out of gas, but the gauge said full. Go firgure.
Anyway I have been told that the problem is my sending unit in the fuel tank. So is there any advise on this repair.
I took my fuel pressure regulator off hoping it would get to my green top coolant temp sensor. It doesn't Now when I put it back on its leaking? I didn't depressurize the fuel line first. Can this be the cause? If so do I just open the gas cap, pull the fuse for the fuel pump, and then re-insert the fuel pressure regulator? or do I need to get new O-rings for the regulator?
View 10 RepliesI'm having an issue ( happened about 6 times now) where engine is taking 5 to 10 attempts to start after, and only after, I put fuel in! Engine turns over but 3 seconds later dies. I have had the starter, battery and alternator checked and they are all fine. , it only happens after I fuel and I have tried a bunch of different gas stations so I know its not bad fuel. In between fuel ups engine runs fine and never a starting issue.
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