have 2002 Explorer with 4.6l that stalled at a stop light and upon restart, there was noticeable ticking and a sucking sound. The exhaust regularly sucks your hand against the pipe. Ticking is from all around the engine. Exhaust smells like rotten eggs.
Son was driving and we just got it back to house so I do not know much more than that. Where to start to diagnose.
Grinding feeling, and noise from rear of 02 explorer xlt. only noticed when starting out from a full stop and turning. It feels like something is grabbing like the rear brakes. I purchased this suv of a local dealer lot, because it was so clean and on a short test run seamed fine.
The day after I picked it up I took it for a shakedown cruise to see if I noticed any problems. After going up a few forward grades I noticed a disturbing rattling noise coming from mid under carriage, and got very worried. I immediately took it to a local well revered mechanic. They eventually had it for 4 days in order to diagnose it. After the dealer had done the inspection on the car and passed it, that all rotors and pads needed to be replaced, left front wheel was locked up, inspection sticker month was never punched, both front tires were bad and either the flex plate or tork converter or both needed to be replaced. I took it back to the dealer with the report and he agreed to fix it with me paying for parts. He did and the rattle was gone !
Yet now I have noticed the problem mentioned at the beginning of this piece, plus the rear wiper does not work. I think I got taken for a ride, which may become a longer ride than I thought. All I want is a reliable car. what could that rear noise be ???
The problem starts after about 5-10 mins of start up and normal driving. First signs usually come leaving a stop light or stop sign. Hesitation, jerkiness, rough acceleration. It's usually slight, just enough to feel it. Soon it really shows up while keeping the truck at a steady speed, say 40 for example.
I finally heard what I would describe as a puffing air sound and figured vacuum leak.. finally! Nope.. it's coming from the rear underneath of the vehicle. I can't hear it in the engine, or the tail pipe.
2002 Ford Explorer xls 4.0 125k miles, I've replaced the air filter, egr valve, pcv valve, cleaned the maf and covered about every hose I can reach with carb cleaner checking for a vacuum leak. I've yet to try some of the other things due to hearing that puffing sound.
I have a 2000 Toyota Rav4 that just had an oil change and air filter replacement a little over a week ago. Today I was driving when the oil light suddenly came on (for the first time ever) followed by the check engine light. The car would not accelerate with pressing the gas and slowly came to rest on the side of the road. I tried to restart it and it made some noise but didn't start. I did check the oil and it is showing that its full.
View 8 RepliesStarted the car got out of the parking lot and drove a few feet till it stalled and rolled to a stop. It cranks but would not turn over all the way to drive. Called mechanic to let them know that it would be towed. They asked if it had gas. It has a 1/4 tank. Tow driver asked the same question. I'm wondering if the fuel pump could be the culprit or timing belt. If timing belt than I wonder if the engine could be the bad kind (interference). And of course cost. It has just over 90k miles and it has received regular oil changes but not the recommended services. I'm biking to the mechanic to drop the key off and thought that I would try it again and look under the hood, but I need to know what to look for.
View 1 RepliesDid my starter yesterday. Today now several times, truck ran rough and stalled. Turned over, tach not bumping, no codes. Would go after a couple tries. Stuffed a new CPS into it. Drive 30 miles, now has a noticable miss, no codes, no smoke and quit again, but started right up.
No codes. Does not feel like another truck and under valve cover gaskets.
1999 7.3 Super duty!
I have 02 Limited 4.6 with 128k and upon startup there's no noise (sometimes misfire, due to oil in plug wells, gonna change the intake mani and coils soon). Shortly after it warms up - 5 minutes or so there is a constant ticking at idle...I can't really tell if its there upon acceleration as I can't notice it with the window open when I'm driving, but as soon as I slow down and/or idle I hear it again.
If I let the car sit for a few hours, or while I'm at work, it starts up perfectly fine, no noise.
I tried the long screw driver trick - putting it to different parts of the engine and placing my ear over the handle, and didn't really notice anything different from any part of the engine. I had it up on my lift, and it almost sounded like it was coming from the rear - near the tranny, but what the hell would tick back there? and how do I diagnose that?
I dropped the oil pan when I first got it and there was a very little amount of black rubbery stuff - presuming its timing chain guide/tensioner related, but no chunks, not really any metallic shimmer in the oil, so I guess it could be that, I'm gonna pop the valve cover off and inspect - but like I said, didn't notice anything with the screwdriver trick....I'm at a loss
I have 124,000 miles on my 2002 subaru impreza outback sport and this car runs very well and has been maintained well however the last couple weeks I have noticed a slight rattling sound toward the right front side of the car almost as if there were pebbles inside the wheel covers when the car is driven at low speed and I begin to accelerate. It also sounds as if the rattling could also be coming from the exhaust also as if it were loose fitting but the tailpipe is on the left looking from the rear of the car. Another possibility I thought of was the fender was loose or the tire was rubbing against the wheel well or something. It is one of those small annoying sounds that does not seem to warrant bringing in to a mechanic yet but I am curious about what that is.
View 2 RepliesI came to a stop at a stop sign and the car just quit. Its a 02 12v vr6 5 speed...
So I tried restarting it and it will only crank...
I have an 02 Eddie Bauer V8 AWD that is making a ticking noise at low speeds ( under 10mph ) on the pass. side. It sounds like a rock in a hubcap noise. I have pulled the wheels and checked the CV boots and they are fine.
View 3 RepliesMy wife was driving this morning and the car stalled when she was accelerating from a stop light. Battery light came on and she could not restart the car no power. When I got there she was able to start the car again. I drove 10 feet when the car stalled again. Noticed that the EPC came on smelled rotten eggs or sulfur from the exhaust.
Used jump cables and car started, battery light gone but EPC light came on and stays on, no blinking. I drove back home about 13 miles and no problem. Took battery to test and did not hold charge, I will replace battery. Car was at the dealer for two weeks to get the CAM, cam follower and high p fuel pump replace. Is just a battery issue or another issue for the EPC light?
I have a 98 F150 Supercab 4x4 with 4.6 and an auto trans. I have 107,000 miles on the truck. Recently developed a engine "tick". Upon start up the "tick" is very noticeable. Seems to go away after its been driven a few miles and everything comes up to operating temp. I have checked the exhaust manifolds, all studs and nuts are still there. There are no noticeable holes that I could feel in the manifolds. Read some other posts here that have the "tick under load". Mine goes away once everything warms up. What to look at or for?
View 8 RepliesMy 2006 package 6 just developed a ticking sound. Audible at stop without the gas engine operating. All gear positions the same. Sounds almost like a slow, little plastic fan that one blade is hitting something. Sound system off, climate system off.
View 7 RepliesI have a 99 Mazda 626 (automatic) and in the past year it has stalled out on 3 separate occasions after coming to a stop at a stoplight. The car sputters off, the wheel locks and it just dies. After this happens the car won't click over to start. However, after letting it sit for several hours, the car will start up again without any problem like nothing was wrong.
I even had the car towed to a mechanic after one of these instances. The car was towed to the shop on a Saturday and on Monday when the mechanic went to see what was wrong, the car started up fine and showed no signs of an issue. I have always been able to start it up without a problem on a day to day basis. (The car also just recently got a lot louder -- I found a sizable hole in the B pipe--so I don't think the noise is related. Anyway, I just don't want to stall out in traffic again so is it time to buy a new fuel pump or could a smaller fix take care of the problem?
How to stop the ticking coming from my hazard button on my 2002 Passat? I tried pulling the button out itself but I am wondering If I have to pull the entire radio console out. Relay issue maybe?
View 1 RepliesWhen I had 67 miles on my 2013 Chrysler T&C Van it stalled and would not immediately restart. The Electronic Vehicle Information Center revealed both the coolant and engine oil temp was in excess of 300 degrees. After 15 minutes the temps were between 280 and 285. The engine started and I drove slowly the3 miles to my house and had it towed to the dealership the next day. Mechanic found the quick connect coolant line to 3rd seat heater was improperly installed at factory allowing 1 gallon plus of coolant to escape.
A mechanical engineer and a Chrysler mech ( not one from the dealership) advises it is just a matter of time until I have internal engine damage. Chrysler Owner Assistance Dept assigned a case mgr. She reported the van was repaired and operating properly because the coolant line was repaired. Their first offer was 1 months loan payment, which I refused.
I bought a used 2007 Santa Fe limited 3.3 last year. I'm currently at 98k miles. I replaced fuel Spenser's, added remote start and a curt hitch, did the head gasket service, did a maintenance to replace spark plugs and coolant.
Everything was ok ( although noticed with our single digit temps the engine was slow to start) then yesterday happened. Starting car in driveway and I got a check engine light. Tried restarting car and it stayed on. No problems. Drove about 15 miles and parked car. It sat for for three hours and then used it to go a few miles up the road ( engine light came on). No problems.
Had lunch, restarted car, light on, and Then oil can red light came on. Drove about 5 miles and while slowing down for a light I felt the power steering go, car stalled, and I couldn't restart. Never heard any whines or shrieks. Pushed car into a gas station and tow truck came. He tried to jump it ( it clicks when I tried to start it but it never turned over) and if his power supply was on and I tried to crank engine it made no sounds. Towed to a shop where mechanic tried same thing. Same result. They put car on rack and tried to manually crank engine. Couldn't budge it and told me engine seized. 4500 estimate to replace engine.
Took my own mechanic out to car ( night and freezing) and he did a few other checks and agreed that engine seized but thought it was weird I didn't hear the whine of the ball bearing getting shredded. Thinks a sensor blew, causing oil pump to fail, causing engine seize.
I'm now reading about multiple issues with crank shaft sensors and pulley separation and it seems like that is a possibility however I can't get my car to turn over at all. Granted it is freezing out here.
On the drive home tonight, I noticed a clicking/ ticking sound coming from the car when accelerating from a complete stop. I would accelerate slowly enough to keep the vehicle in EV mode for the duration of the acceleration. Not sure if this is normal.
View 2 RepliesMy '02 Explorer transmission is giving me a little trouble. The vehicle has 240,000 miles, but the transmission has been rebuilt several miles ago. I recently had the fluid changed, and I had them add a bottle of Lucas Transmission Fix, which I have had good luck with in the past. Most of the time, the transmission behaves normally.
Occasionally however, when I come to a stop after driving for a while, the transmission stops pulling, like it has shifted into neutral. Sometimes it will re-engage after a couple seconds, and sometimes I try to hurry it along by shifting to Park, then back to Drive and it will go. If I am on an incline, and the vehicle does this, it will actually roll down the hill.
Hopefully there is a simple fix because this thing is too close to the end of its life to require a hefty repair investment! Maybe a switch or a sensor. I'd love to tell you that I checked the fluid level, but Ford forgot to put a transmission dipstick on it.....
My Mazda tribute 2003 (manual) has developed a habit of 'pretending' to be overheated. If I do more than 2 or 3 stops as I run Saturday errands on a warm day - the care refuses to start and' continue' to run. I can start the car but have to rev the engine and restart at every stop sign and red light- If I pop the hood and wait about 40 minutes the car seems to 'cool' down and will run. The engine does not redline - water and coolant are fine - Is this just a faulty thermostat or is it some insidious vapor lock....
View 3 RepliesJust noticed a ticking sound coming from my engine... just turned 160,000. Hoping nothing serious...
View 11 Replies