My 4.6 explorer has a spark knock noise when hot. When the engine is cold or on cold rainy days it does not make the spark knock noise. I have tried higher octane gas and octane boosters but it does not seem to work. Check engine light is not on and there are no codes. Could I have a bad egr valve or knock sensors with no codes...
View 5 RepliesMy 2002 Explorer is having a problem. It started running rough suddenly and when I had it checked the # 6 coil pack on the spark plug was bad. We replaced it and it still ran rough. Found fluid on top of spark plug. At first thought it was oil due to the color but later figured out it was antifreeze. We do have a cracked thermostat housing that we tried to seal up a few months ago. Doesn't seem to be coming from there. This is my only reliable transportation.
View 4 RepliesMy 2001 Corolla w/80k developing a considerably loud spark knock/engine pinging noise under acceleration. It throws no codes but pings like crazy and it never used to. It's happened gradual over a long period of time. I've cleaned the throttle body and have done all regular tune up items with no improvement. It doesn't ping at all on 93 octane, does some on 89 and terribly so on 87. Why is this? Does the 93 octane just act a a richer mixture of fuel to alleviate the ping? Should this sign point me in the direction that it's definately a lean issue causing the pinging?
View 13 Replies I have a 04 5.4 w/ a whipple supercharger. truck has 104k miles. Has a misfire in cyl 4 (p0304, p0316) And spark knock.. I've changed the plugs, coil on cyl 4, fuel filter, and today the o2 sensor(pass side upper, bank 2??). I've ran tecron injector cleaner threw it, and always used Chevron 90 octane. (highest in Alaska)
The noise only happens when under load, or accelerating with more then half the throttle. doesn't happen when i slowly get up to speed. What I could do next? About to take it to the dealer to run a full diagnostic test on it.. Also, does not hesitate or bog. drives normal just with that noise
Had it before, code p1401. Changed out dpfe and it worked for 6 months. Now spark knock again. Now though I have no codes though. No vacuum leaks that I can find. New egr from before I had the problem. I applied vacuum to the green hose and it stumbled so the ports should be ok. Snytime I go above 3000 rpm i get the pinging. I replaced the dpfe again and no difference.
View 3 RepliesSo we finally found a travel trailer and picked it up yesterday. It is a 2008 Jayco 29A. Fiberglass with aluminum frame. 5345 dry weight, so shouldn't be too taxing on the Ex, but we towed it through parts of the NC mountains to get home and on steep grades it would downshift to 2nd gear and I would hear what sounded to me like pinging from the engine.
As far as I know the plugs are original, so should I just go ahead and replace them, or there also a possibility that this is just the notorious exhaust manifold leak? If all exhaust manifold bolts are still intact, is there a good test to know if it is the exhaust? No engine codes were thrown. The truck has 72k miles on it now.
I recently replaced the plugs & wires on my '97 3.0L XLT automatic, and now I'm hearing some pre-ignition (spark knock). Only happens under light load, as in climbing a slight grade on the highway. No CEL, no codes on my code reader. Was not happening before I did the work.
The plugs & wires I removed were the factory originals (AWSF32P & PG, 3 of each), truck only has ~85,000KM (~50,000 Miles) on it. Well maintained, & only used occasionally. The only mod from stock are the wheels & tires, I'm running 215/70 R15 instead of the stock 225/70 R14, the difference in the tire circumference is minimal.
The gap on the old plugs was just over .050", no evidence of any fouling or other problems. The new plugs are Autolite XP104 Iridium, which is what the Autolite catalog calls for. Plug gap was checked & set to .044", midway in the range called for by Ford (.042-.046).
I realize that the narrower gap on the new plugs will cause a slight advance in timing, and I have done a computer reset/relearn as per Paw Paw's instructions. I'm stumped.
03, 2.3 duratec, 163k, new timing chain, plugs (AP104), wires and intake. cleaned MAF, air filter, and ran two cans of sea foam through the intake and its still pinging. its driving me up the wall. truck runs perfect but seems to idle slightly higher and take longer to come down to idle after I got the timing chain and plugs/wires done. I've sprayed starting fluid around on top of the engine looking for vacuum leaks but found nothing. What should I try next?
View 14 RepliesHave a an 11 f350 6.2 gas throwing p0171 and 0174. Driving the truck it has spark knock pretty bad. Ive parked it at this point. Its a tow truck so I need it fixed and back on the road. I've checked the hoses going to the pcvs they appear to be ok.... Also upon starting the truck it just sounds weak.....
View 1 RepliesI have a 2006 GMC 1500 4x4 just under 100,000 miles on a GM crate engine, 266,000 on truck, runs great no loss of power, no drop in MPG. sill get 17-18 around town on 87. If I put 90-91 gas in when pulling a load I get 18 all day long. So were is the problem? I am getting spark knock. I have tried diffrent gas, just put in plugs and wires. Old plugs looked good. No Cel on, No codes. It happens when I am flat roads and going up hills. I did get to go away for 1 tank when I switched gas stations,but now all brands of gas do it. This has been going for 3 mo's. One more thing it all started after I made a 800 mile round trip puling a trailer ( just under 5000 lbs on trailer 2 axle enclosed). On that trip as always do I used 90-91 gas.
View 3 RepliesMy son was driving my 2002 Explorer, 4.0L, 200K+, yesterday, and it started making a clicking noise under the hood. It clicks in time with the engine running, but it doesn't sound internal to me. It's more like it's in some of the apparatus on top of the engine, fuel delivery system. It doesn't sound like a timing chain to me, but I could be wrong. Maybe I'm just trying to be optimistic, but the thing runs fine, and all of the gauges are normal. I'm going to drive it today to see for myself. Any other part besides the timing chain?
View 6 Replies2002 ford explorer 4x4 150k miles when i put it in reverse a loud clunk noise but when put in drive no clunk noise. But on highway when its shifts a very loud clunk and like a real hard shift !!!!!o/d light is flashing also .transmission shift solenoid ? rear ?
View 8 RepliesI have a 1998 Ford Explorer 4X4 two owner and only 63K miles. All service records including tranny flush. Tranny shifts fine, there are no "clunks" when shifting out of Park.The only symptom is an occasional bump or thud ( maybe more like a jolt )coming from underneath at the rear at highway speeds. Sometimes it is more pronounced than others. I don't believe RPMs change when this happens. Around town is fine and only at constant speeds above 55 which makes it difficult to recreate. I have checked for anything loose underneath ( incl spare tire ) and can't find anything.
View 3 RepliesPicked up an '03 Eddie Bauer v8 with the full time AWD knowing that the transfer case needed to be replaced, I got a good deal so it was worth it. It's still driveable but it binds in sharps turns and I get the occasional knock. I have two questions really, what is the correct PN for the single speed transfer case for this year model?
All the online ford parts store will give me is 7A195... well yeah, there's like a hundred different variations on that part number. And what year Mountaineers and Aviators will cross over to the Explorer? I've been searching ebay but their info is all over the place, no consistency. As an after thought, how difficult would it be to convert this to a 2 speed part time 4x4?
The other day my 2002 Sport Trac with 4.0 started to miss badly. It has only about 90,000 miles on it. It started to do this suddenly from one turn of the key to the next. It also makes a weird noice that sounds as if its coming from the intake area that can be described as a "chuffing" sound thats in time with the engine. The intake also gets very warm to the touch. We have since stopped driving it. I sprayed carb cleaner all around where the intake meets the head with no change in rpm. I also checked the plastic hose that goes behind the engine to the pcv valve and its ok.
View 10 RepliesI'm working on a 02 explorer. The front end is howling so I replaced the left side and no change. The howl goes away when braking. Is it the right side then or something else? I replaced both front brakes pads so it's not that.
View 2 RepliesI have a 2002 explorer 2wd. I am trying to find an answer for this thumping noise as I accelerate. My first thought was a tire. I took them to be checked and had one replaced but all are good and less than 5k miles on them. I feel it in the pedals and in the steering wheel. The repetitive sound increasing with speed. I have, in the last 2 weeks, changed front rotors and pads with no difference in sound but good brakes now. And today replaced the drivers side upper ball joint and the front ds wheel hub assy. And no difference. What may be the problem?
View 1 RepliesVEHICLE: 1992 Ford Explorer, 4.0, 4wd Automatic, CALIFORNIA EMISSIONS w/ 59,000 Miles...
PROBLEM: Engine rolls over great, BUT No Spark, No Fuel
Here are the tests I've done:
- Each and every relay √
- Each and every fuse √
- Ensure inertia switch hadn't popped √
- Directly connect 12 volts to pump & pump came on √
- By-pass inertia switch √
- Replace PCM √
I'm thinking it's time to start checking grounds and chasing wires....
I own a 2002 Ford Explorer and I need diagnosing a problem. Whenever I start to pick up speed it starts to buckle and I always have the 4x4 on auto and it still buckles.
View 1 Replies2002 ford explorer v8 4x4, ok I had some noise coming front the right maybe middle axle area so I pulled the driver's side tire and inspected all the bushings ball joints and hubs. The hub had a little play and so did the upper ball joint. So I replaced the hub thinking this could be the problem and the steering stabilizer bar (all the bushing on the bar where toast). Ever thing was tight but the upper ball joint still had a little play but not enough for me to spend the $ to replace the whole control are (as I am told you cannot replace just the ball joints you have to replace the whole control arm). Any way got it all back together and still same nose. What it could be? Also the four wheel low will not engage could this be part of the problem or one more thing un related ( the four high engages just not the low)...
View 14 RepliesStarted up the 2002 EXP today and thought the fuel pump was failing. Get a consistent thump every 1 second. Later today i looked and noted the noise is coming from drivers rear fender well (i think). I took off the small plastic cover of the rear blower motor and thought it was in that area. Disconnected the motor and still thumps. Disconnected the blower motor resistor block and still thumps. Looked at the overhead consol and the rear blower was on HI. Turned the blower down and as you reduce speed the noise volume is lower. Turned the switch off and i thought the noise was gone. Pulled the cup holder above the fender well looking for a relay or something in that area. I cant isolate the noise but seems to be real close to that area. Later i heard the noise, very faint, and the blower switch was off. Turned it to 1-2-3 and it gets much louder. Turned it off and very slight noise. What am i looking for? My hearing is not accurate enough to find it.
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