Ford - Explorer :: 2002 - Shudder At Idle / Low RPM And Also When Accelerating Slowly Low In The Revs
Jun 8, 2012
My mom wants to sell her 2002 Ford Explorer w/ 4.0 as enough kids have moved out that the vehicle is no longer needed. It has 162 000 mostly trouble free miles on it. However, for me to sell it for her, I need to get it running well first. The background:
Just recently it fried the alternator. No big deal, got a reman for my dad and he put it in. But now it has this sort of "shudder" at idle and low rpm, and also when accelerating slowly low in the revs. I don't know if it was there before or not because only my siblings drove it, and their not exactly observant. I am positive it is a misfire.
So far I have done the obvious. I have pulled all the plugs, they are nice and tan, re-gapped them (although they were only .002 out of spec at the most). I noticed that one plug wire was broken on the inside, where it connects to the plug. Thinking I solved the problem, I bought a new set of wires and put them on. No such luck however, as the problem continues unchanged. On the new wires, I have verified tons of spark making it through. In an effort to isolate the bad cylinder, thinking maybe it was actually a plug, I started pulling wires off the coil with it running. I could barely notice a change in the engine with any of them, and a couple seemed to have no change at all (again, I may just not have been able to detect it because I could barely make out the other changes).
Next, thinking maybe it was fuel related, I put a stethoscope on some of the injectors and they sounded the same, but I can not get at the back passenger and 2 back driver ones. How else can I test these?
I even went so far as to unplug IAC, engine died immediately so its not that. I also took off the EGR valve and cleaned it, and pushed the plunger up and down lots and it moves freely. I tried pulling off the vaccuum line from the EGR with the engine running and there was no change, but that doesn't really mean anything does it?
So I put it all back together and thats how it sits for the night. On a related note, the CEL is on, but it is on more often than not on that thing, and my dad has taken it to a dealer three times to have codes read and nothing ever shows up. The mechanics keep saying that it has something to do with the fuel cap and pressure or something.
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My subaru forester, 2002, with low mileage (40K) had routine maintenance 2 mos ago. Now sounds like it revs when in idle, and today began hesitating when I accelerate (a few seconds or so). I plan to take it in but wonder if there's insight before I go in cold (I know nothing about cars). Read on forums could be 02 sensor.
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I'm about 100 miles into the break in period and I knew there would be chatter at idle but there also seems to be a lot of chatter driving around especially accelerating slowlyish from under 3,000 rpms in 4th. Is this normal or do i have a possibly botched install?
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Replaced the 2002 ford explorer 4x4 traction control module because of a shudder in first gear. With the new module the shudder disappeared but now the truck shifts into 4wd by itself and stays there. I am now on my 2nd new module because I returned the first one thinking it was defective.
If I cycle the 4x4 high switch and the 4x4 auto switch, the truck switches back int 2wd but on for a moment then goes back into 4wd. I don't get a 4x4high indicator light but I can hear and feel it is in 4wd. Almost like it thinks the truck needs work with the traction. I have now disconnected the module completely and the trucks runs/shifts beautifully in 2wd. I know my transmission is good. BTW, I have no trouble codes.
Do I have a bad speed sensor somewhere? and How do I trouble shoot for it?
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My wife's having trouble with her '02 Explorer 4x4 V8 XLT.
Today I experienced a violent steering wheel shudder that I would describe as the old "death wobble" you hear about on solid axle trucks, Early Broncos, Jeeps, etc.
At 55mph, in a slight right hand turn, a little bit of a bump in the road triggered it. I held on to it as the steering wheel was rotating left and right a few degrees (maybe ~10deg) and it wouldn't stop until I slowed down to around 35mph.
I crawled underneath and didn't see anything obviously bad (tie rod ends, ball joints, etc).
Then I noticed when turning the steering wheel (with the engine running, but parked) I could feel it shuddering slightly as I turned it.
The PS pump makes quite a bit of noise so I wonder if its on the way out.
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Took this car for scheduled maintenance, tuneup on 12/19. AFTER the tuneup, it started shaking when in idle or going slowly. Took it back 1/5, they confirmed it was misfiring, checked a computer code, replaced one of the coils. The misfiring went away but returned, worse than ever, last week (early Feb).
I read somewhere that replacing coils for misfiring can be just treating the symptom, not the cause. What should I do now?
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My 2002 Tacoma has recently been experiencing transmission trouble. Between 45-60 MPH at various revs, the truck begins to shudder and shake. The severity depends on how aggressively I accelerate. After several weeks of this, the check engine light came on. It has remained on since, except when it flashes if I accelerate too quickly. Throughout the shuddering, the revs remain constant. By roughly 60-70 mph, the truck runs smoothly again. In a (possibly) unrelated note, the parking brake indicator is lit almost constantly, particularly in wet or cold weather, although the brake is not engaged.
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I have a 2002 f150 with the 5.4. Its got a rough idle and a bit hesitant on acceleration. Im wanting to replace the coils and plugs but what brand of coils should I use?
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When I'm driving in stop and go traffic during rush hour, my 2007 Camry V6 makes a light flutter when I slowly speed up to between 1000 to 1300 revs. It's not a grind or anything but it's like a light flutter/stutter that you can feel.
It's not a hesitation where the car slows down, but you can definitely feel and hear a light "duh duh duh" then the car continues. It doesn't happen at higher revs at all once the car picks up, say, 10 to 15 kms an hour.
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My trucks been doing something weird. When accelerating around 45-55 mph, a couple seconds after it shifts to 3rd, it does a weird type off shake/shudder. Feels like I hit a small bump in the road. Also when coming out of a cruise to accelerate, it will Make a very violent clunk and then speed up. I'm thinking it's a problem with my torque converter but my mechanic says transmission and my buddy says rear end lol. I dropped the pan and there was some shavings but nothing huge and it was the first time it was ever dropped. After 90k miles.
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2002 Toyota Camry
2.4 V4
My car has developed a rough idle when stopped and when accelerating. When I got the CEL, I had the codes read at Advance Auto.
The codes are P0301, P0302, P0303, P1349.
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What can cause shutter in 1998 f-150 4.6 4x4 4r70w when slowly accelerating?
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2001 F150 5.4 v8 ... In the past few months my truck has been a bit strange, but in the past few weeks it's gotten to the point I'm nervous to drive it. Usually when shifting around 30-35, the engine revs up and stops accelerating and I have to take my foot off the pedal to make it return to normal. It doesn't do this after I do that, but the past time I tried to drive I couldn't get above 35 and the rpm was in the upper 2000s going at a constant 35. When I stop for any reason such as making a turn, when it shifts it lurches forward and I hear a loud clunk.
Naturally, I've checked all the fluids and fuses and they're all fine. The mechanic I regularly visit insists that nothing is wrong with it.
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I have a 199 Ford Expedition that started shuddering several months ago. The shudder was the most pronounced when braking, but was also pretty bad when accelerating and letting off the accelerator.I took it to a Nationally recognized service center. They charged me over $1,200 to replace everything associated with my brakes, but the shudder, (although no longer so pronounced when braking), was still there.Their best guess was the “U” joints, but since they had just a little play in them, they weren't sure that that would cause so much shudder.I took it to a Ford dealer. They had it for 3 days, and charged me $366 for a diagnosis that I had 3 different brand name tires, and the All Wheel Drive was having difficulty keeping the wheels in sync.The problem seems to be most pronounced when letting up on the accelerator Also pronounced when accelerating, not as much so as when letting off the accelerator, but when cruising steadily with my foot on the accelerator, it nearly goes away.
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In june of 2014 I purchased a 2012 F150 Harley Edition with the 6.2 for my wife to use as a daily driver. I told her that she could have any vehicle she wanted and she chose the White Harley Truck.
It is a Ford Certified Pre Owned and we took delivery with about 30,000 miles on the odometer.
From the test drive in June 2014 until today the truck has had two distinct issues with the rear end and suspension:
1. After coming to a normal stop (at a light) when you start to accelerate (on green) there is a distinct thunk that is heard and felt. Having owned other vehicles with a slip yoke drive shaft I knew right away that the slip yoke needed to be cleaned and lubricated and that is how the dealer repaired this issue. The repair lasted about 10,000 miles and the thunk started again recently.
2. Also after coming to a normal stop and then accelerating there is a vibration felt until the mass of the truck is moving along at about 20 MPH. It's not a vibration like a wheel/tire is out of balance it's more like the whole vehicle is shaking similar to the Space Shuttle Experience ride at the Kennedy Space Center. The shudder is severe enough that my elderly neighbors asked if the truck "was going to make it without falling apart" when my wife and I took them to dinner one evening. The Shudder is exponentially worse when towing any kind of trailer. I have a tandem axle car hauler to haul a 1992 Jeep YJ to various events and the whole setup might weigh 5000 LBS max which is well under the tow capacity of the truck. To say the shaking is violent is putting it lightly.
When I took it in for service, the dealer told me that it was my fault for riding around with the locking differential locked. I told them nice try and that I know what a locking diff is and how to use it because I have two of them in my Jeep. I then took the service advisor for a ride, made him verify the diff is off and demonstrated the problem without even leaving the parking lot. At that point he acknowledged the condition I left the vehicle with him again. The repair the dealer made was to change the rear differential fluid and called me to say the truck was ready.
I drove back to the dealer again (35 minutes in light traffic) where I was presented with the vehicle. I didn't have to leave the lot before I knew it still was not fixed and pulled back into the service lane. I was greeted by the advisor who then proceeded to tell me it was "characteristic of the vehicle." I was completely frustrated and took my truck with it's "characteristic" shudder home.
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I recently bought an 04 lariat crew cab with 56K miles 5.4 and auto trans. Before i bought it i complained about an exhaust noise and acceleration issue at 40mph and 1100 rpm as well as the ac not being very cold. They replaced the exhaust manifold on the passenger side, coil pack on the #3 cylinder, a transmission flush, a flash drive update and recharged the ac. This seemed to take care of the problem but i mostly drove under 30mph and did not notice it. I took it on a few road trips, and country roads and noticed the problem of sputtering and shuttering between 40-60 mph's after decelerating and slowly accelerating. The problem occurs consistently with ac and over-drive on in the above mentioned conditions and mph range. Problem is less noticeable with ac off and have not noticed it at all with over-drive off. It feels like a limited slip kicking in or driving on dry pavement in 4wd. Tranny shifts fine through all gears in a straight pull of acceleration and even full throttle pulls. Problem only occurs after decelerating and slowly accelerating. I don't know of any codes as I don't have a code reader, but I have not had any check engine lights come on nor has the dealer mentioned any codes.
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2002 Hyundai Elantra GT 2.0L 140k miles
Symptoms:
- Intermittent rough idle when hot, slight shutter, surges between 700-800rmp
- Intermittent hesitation when accelerating, cylinder 2 misfire when hot and under load
- Misfires in all gears under load, mostly when under 2000rpm
- Code P0302 when scanned, no other codes
- Symptoms appeared suddenly, not gradually over time
What's been changed:
- Replaced spark plugs, little or no improvement. Old plugs looked worn, but generally in good shape with no significant deposits.
- Cleared code and swapped injectors between cylinders 1 and 2, after test drive P0302 code came back, so it seems that the injectors are good. If the injector were bad I would have expected the misfire to change from cylinder 2 to cylinder 1.
Inspection and Testing:
- Ignition System Testing
- Spark plug wires and primary coil are within specification.
- Secondary coil resistance is high on both packs. Could this be causing a problem with just cylinder 2? Is it worth replacing?
Spark Plug Wires: Specification: 5.6 Kohm/meter +- 20%Cylinder 1: 2.49 Kohm (Longest)Cylinder 2: 2.03 KohmCylinder 3: 1.64 KohmCylinder 4:1.36 Kohm (Shortest)
Primary Coil: Specification : 0.58ohms +- 10%Actual: .6 and .6
Secondary Coil: Specification: 12.2 Kohms +- 15%
Actual (Cold): 16.03K for Cylinder 2-3 pack and 15.94K for Cylinder 1-4 pack
Actual (Hot): 18.54K for Cylinder 2-3 pack and 18.44K for Cylinder 1-4 pack
Air/Fuel System Testing:Fuel system seems to check out. I do not believe the problem is fuel related. There are no obvious cracks or leaks on the intake manifold. A good spray of Carb cleaner all around the manifold causes no change in idle. I might try propane later. No obvious vacuum leaks.
Fuel Injector: Specification: 13.1-14.5 ohms
Actual: Cyl 1: 14.9, Cyl 2: 15.3, Cyl 3: 15.3, Cyl 4: 15.7
Compression Testing:Compression is not great, but within specification. Could the slightly lower compression in Cylinders 2 and 3 indicate a head gasket leak between those cylinders? Could this cause a misfire in Cylinder 2?
Dry Compression: Specification: 145-218psi, <15psi between cylinders
Actual: Cyl 1: 165, Cyl 2: 155, Cyl 3: 155, Cyl 4: 160
Oil/Coolant/Tailpipe:
- Oil looks normal, not brown or milky
- Coolant looks normal and is full, no signs of leaking (coolant has not been changed in a very long time, could a coolant flush work?)
- Exhaust looks and smells normal from tailpipe.
Sticking valve? How would I check this? Bad sensor somewhere? Doesn't a bad sensor usually throw a code?
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This morning was cold. Went to start and it slowly cranked but no start. Tried jumping but again slow crank and no start. Thinking battery charged and tested and it's fully charged. Reinstalled and nothing.
No click.
No crank.
Nothing.
So thinking now. Start with relay.
Then starter solenoid.
Then starter?
Could it be a column thing? Not fully in park or should I try in neutral? Have another thread needing a fuse diagram for inside and the box under the hood.
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While I am loving the fuel millage and ride of my new truck, I have my first concern. In the last few weeks i have hauled a truck bed full of dirt, and 3300 lbs of sod. both times i would use tow haul mode, and while the truck had plenty of power, it would shutter when accelerating from a stop. Mostly first gear 0-15 mph.
This is my truck with a fancy electronic controlled transmission, so on the old pickups this would be a torque converter slipping, but all the ford dealer wants to tell me is "its electrical and they want to reflash my transmission". I am at 26k miles and have less than 10k left on my warranty...
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I have a early 99 7.3l that seem to cut out and shudder while accelerating at low rpm's below 2000 once I am above 2000 rpm it seems to go away similar to a dirty carburetor thinking injector problem...
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Looking for your collective expertise
2007 E350 with 5.4L and 4R70W trans. 107K miles and the fluid has probably never been changed ( my mistake - thought it was 100K interval - finding out from my reading that is def not true ). Anyway, following is recent development (last couple days):
Symptom #1: In Park/Neutral there is a whine. As soon as you put it in P or N, the whine 'spins up', stabilizes, and does increase with engine RPM.
Symptom #2: Hesitation (albeit minor) when starting from stop in D and R, with _very_ minor shudder. Sometimes feels like it's struggling a bit to move its own weight just until it's rolling.
Symptom #3: Shudder when accelerating in OD. No shudder when I turn off OD. It does not stop when applying brakes (a test suggested elsewhere). Also, the shudder does not happen when applying gas while braked in D at standstill. Only at highway speeds (enough to be in OD).
This all started at the end of a trip (90 miles or so in 85-90 degrees) when I was pulling a utility trailer (maybe 2000 lbs loaded). Not sure if related, but traction control warning went off a couple times. I think I have a axle seal leak that may be triggering that.
Otherwise shifts fine (no change in shift behavior or smoothness). Things seem to be worse when it has heated up. Should I start with a fluid change? Wasn't sure because there are comments out there saying don't do it or the tranny will just fail faster (I am skeptical).
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