Ford - Explorer :: 2002 - Rumbles And Shakes When Running And RPM Fall Then It Just Dies
Dec 3, 2014
248k miles on it, was taken from a body shop and put on side of road, I know who took it but can't prove it. He is known for messing with ppl vehicles. . Started up just fine when found, but you can hold foot completely down on gas and it's like it is losing pressure (?) , it rumbles and shakes when running and you can watch the RPMS fall while holding gas pedal down (in park) until it just dies. It has an "egg" smell and one side will get hot while the other stays cold. It was something intentionally done to my vehicle. .already checked Cadillac converter and cleaned/removed muffler. I'm not sure where to start looking now, I'm a single mother without the money to take it to a repair shop. We could drive it onto the trailer to get it to a friend house, but barely made it up it without dying...
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Friend has 1996 Explorer EBE. When you reach 60 MPH the entire truck rumbles down the road. Increasing speed has no effect and the sense it not as if the source is a wheel or a particular corner of the truck, the entire truck rumbles like when you run over those "wake up the driver" bumps you find on the side of the highway. So my thinking is transmission - case maybe since it is the entire truck that rumbles ....
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Ok so here's the deal recently decided to get my explorer back on the road after sitting for some time. So needed a new alternator replaced took it for a drive was really rough but again it just sat so i kept driving it and it got better but did need some parts and love so here's what I did to it thus far then I will explain what the issue is. I have replaced the alternator, oil change, trans case fluid change, new plugs and wires, new wheel bearing, new rotor, new brakes all around, new caliper. So here's the issue. During take off it vibrates/shakes mostly between 30-40 mph but when you get to about 60 it drives good but when you take your foot off the gas its like a whine or a growl that comes from what sounds like the middle of the truck. I am not exactly sure on what it is. I checked the u joints no slop or anything maybe a little stiff. Tomorrow im checking the front and rear diff and rotating the tires to see if that gets rid of the vibration but what about the whine or growl. Realized I didn't put what type of explorer it is. 2002 explorer xls 4.0 sohc 4x4.
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I've got a 2002 Ford Sports Trac that won't start ! It will crank till battery dies but is not getting fuel. I have had it towed 4 times in the past year. of the 4 times,this last time it wont start. Every time that I have had it towed back to my house and dropped in the driveway it has started up with no problems. It will run for a few months or more.This last time it would not.
Could this be an electrical problem.Maybe loose ground somewhere or something else. Would like to rule out some things before investing in a fuel filter or fuel pump. Would hate to buy new FuelPump and that not be the problem. Can't find free wiring diaghrams for this issue.
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My 2002 Ford Explorer 4L V6 is running rough I found out why I just don't know what the piece is called because I need a replacement. Mine fell off and fell down the engine and melted quite a bit. Also the part number on my piece doesn't work anywhere, that I have typed it in. Mine has a Ford part number of 1L2U-9F764-AC. Also need to know the proper Ford number. I have a picture I found online with an arrow pointing to the piece I need.
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I have a 2002 Pontiac Grand AM for about 4 days now the car has been running hot. When it gets too hot the car dies and I have to jump the battery. Could this be more then a simple thermostat problem?
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Have been having problems with my a/c on my '02 Sport Trac (4x4 w/ 235K miles) running cold, then hot, then cold again but inconsistently. Aside from the fact that it always seems to happen when I'm really in need of some cold air, there doesn't seem to be a pattern...in traffic, idling, highway driving, city driving, but it does seem to be a bigger problem at lower speeds or in traffic. No issues with air flow or controls, just maintaining cold temps. I've already had the system recharged and in the past replaced the a/c manifold hose assembly, and a dye test was inconclusive.
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I have a 2002 Eddie Bauer Explorer. When running does not pass the third shift.
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On my V8 02 XLT Explorer the engine is running rough like it's missing.
I think a coil may have gone bad,,found a LOT of anti-freeze down in the spark plug hole.
Have replaced the intake but now need to fix the roughness.
Is there any easy way to check each coil? Or should I be checing something else?
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My son ran off the road in a neighborhood and hit some large rocks along side the street. It punctured the front right side and obvioulsly damaged the steering because now it drives terribly and instead of the steering wheel handles being side to side it is 90 degrees perpendicular. The service station I use said it has a bent frame and will need to be taken to a body shop. Will the cost to fix it be worth it especially due to its age?
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When I depress my brakes the right rear chatters, almost as if metal is on metal. Depending upon my speed when I brake the chattering will rise or fall with the speed I'm braking. Sound familiar?
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I have a 'new-to-me' Ford F-550 with the vaunted 7.3 Powerstroke diesel engine. The truck only has 120k miles and ran great when I bought it. Last week it began acting up. While driving on the highway, it lost power, began running rough, and once I pulled over, it died.
After a few minutes, I tried re-starting the truck, it started, but had little to no power....I could get up to 30-35mph and then it would slow down and lost all power. I let the truck sit for about 20 minutes while I refilled the diesel tank, it started right up and drove normally for another 10-15 minutes and then the same thing happened again.
The truck sat for a day and then drove normally for two entire days. This morning, it began acting up. It is the same as before..... what to do with this type of issue?
There is not a check engine light lit (yes, it works). The diesel is from a good source that is not causing problems in anything else. The truck is otherwise strong.
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I have recently changed all 4 rotors and brake pads, i blead the brake line, replaced tires about 4 months ago and replaced lower front ball joints. The problem is that the whole explorer shakes including steering whee when you brake between 55-40 MPH. I thought by doing a complete brake job, it would solve my problem. I'm running miserable not knowing what the problem is.
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I have a 1997 explorer xlt 2 wheel drive 4 door. It's got 189,000 miles on it. It's shakes a lot on idle when put in drive. I've replaced a lot of stuff. I've also lost a lot of power. I can put the gas pedal to the floor and still not get enough power. The shaking feels like it's about the stall out but it doesn't. Oh and there a rear main leak if that works.
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Whenever I turn on my A/C and the car is in idle, it will turn off. Then I have to put it in park and turn it in again.
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The Explorer ran just fine last week, until I tried to clear a chronic (months) "Check Engine" light. Initially the only 2 codes were pertaining to the DPFE sensor and Cylinder #1 misfire. I found an aftermarket rubber hose from the DPFE that had rotted off. I replaced the rubber hose, and I replaced the #1 spark plug and wire. Instead of simply clearing the codes and turning off the "Check Engine" light, it now shakes to the point where it's barely drivable. 57 mph seems to be the "sweet spot" where the shaking is the worst, but it will also shake under heavy acceleration, and when driving uphill at freeway speeds. Taking your foot off the gas seems to decrease the shaking somewhat. The weather had been unusually cold (for South Texas), and as the weather has warmed-up, the shaking seems to have diminished, so there may be a connection between the shaking and the temperature.
OBD-II Trouble Code: P0301 Cylinder 1 One Misfire Detected
OBD-II Trouble Code: P0401 Insufficient EGR Flow
I have a lot of questions, but do not want to cloud the 1st post of the thread with information that may be irrelevant, so I'll leave it at that. This is my work vehicle and I'm in the middle of a job and am worried that I may be causing permanent damage to the vehicle by driving it. I know I can change-out the DPFE sensor and the ICM, but as they are both non-returnable parts, I don't want to spend the money without good reason.
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My truck starts right up, then immediately almost stalls or stalls completely. It also shakes a little when idling while its in Park. I just recently had my egr valve, pcv valve, spark plugs&wires, and fuel filter replaced. it has 104,000 miles on it. What could be causing it to do this?
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I recently bought this cavalier about a week ago its and 88 automatic trans with 1.8 4 cylinder I thing not that it matters much. I noticed the exhaust had a smaller pipe from the manifold and the rest was strung with a bit bigger pipe and was attempted to crimp the pipes togather it was loud so I crimped thhe pipes better and used exhaust glue to patch the holes it runs better now to a point. but when I start the car it revs up a fair im guessing 3 grand since I have no rpm gauge but then it dies down to a low idle to the point were the car shakes a little bit.
with the exhaust fixed I can get it up to 20 kilometres an hour with my foot off the gas when I turn fully it wants to lurch ahead/backwards. when I took it out for a highway drive today I came to a stop sign so I slowed and stoped and the car stalled out. started no problem. but I also tried later putting it in neutral and it doesn't stall as I role to a stop it doesn't shake in neutral. I would like to have this fixed but I need some pointers as of were to look. im not sure if this means anything but when I got the car it had a bad enough radiator fluid leak at the hose meeting the heating car on the engine side of the fire wall I repaired that and no longer leaks.
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Working on a friend's Explorer. The car idles fine, but once he starts driving and gets to about 35 mph, second or third gear, the car loses power and eventually dies. MAF sensor replaced, no change.
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My 2003 Ford Explorer Sport Trac only dies when someone rides in the front passenger seat. Then it won't start for at least 30 min to an hour. The time seams to vary. There is no warning light, no motor sounds or any kind of warning at all. It just dies. When trying to start it cranks great, no signs of battery drain. I think it's the auto shutoff wiring in the floorboard that goes to the reset button for the fuel pump. I tok it to a dealer and they put in a new fuel pump. $1000 later that night it did the same thing. I had a friend in the passenger seat. I took it back the next morning and they kept it for 3 days but could never get it to die. So my thought is they never had a passenger. I tested it myself in my driveway and stomped my feet around the floor and it died.
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I have a 2000 Ford Explorer XLT 4x4, powered by the 4.0L SOHC V6 engine, with a 5R55E transmission. It now has this issue of stalling and dying when shifted from park to reverse. This can be prevented by applying the gas immediately after shifting, however, my wife cannot do this. (she is very temperamental, and doesn't remember that this issue occurs decently often now, so if it happens once, she bites my head off because I haven't fixed this issue yet) I do not see this as the valve body issue, because the tranny shifts fine, and I have engine braking ability, still. What causes this, and what I can do to fix it?
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