Soon my rear shoes will need replacing in my '02 . I've given up searching for info on how to replace them. Seems all the links I find are for vehicles that have rear disc brakes and mine are drums. Is this a do-able thing or should I just hand it over to a shop? I've done my share of brake jobs on other vehicles but not this would be my first Ford.
View 11 RepliesI have no experience with drum brakes. I have no clue how long they are good for and what to look for in terms of wear. I assumed last week that with 226K miles on the car that the shoes must be reaching the end of their life. I went on Ebay and bought the spring kits and new shoes.
The last time I inspected the shoes was when the car had 100K miles on it. They didn't look too bad. When I started to replace the shoes after just buying all of the parts they looked almost the same as they did when the car had 100K on it. The rear facing shoes are about 5mm thick and the forward facing shoes at the thinnest part near the middle are 3mm thick. The specs in the maintenance manual give 5mm normal and 1 mm minimum.
Since I already have all of the parts and can't return them should I replace the shoes anyway? The manual says if the shoes show uneven wear to replace them. The rear facing shoes have even wear from top to bottom while the forward facing shoes are thicker on the ends and are thinner in the middle. The only issue that I have with the rear brakes is with the parking brake. I have the parking brake cable adjusted all the way and it will barely hold the car in place while in neutral. The shoes that I purchased are made by Wagner and being brand new are not even all the way across. They are also only 4mm thick.
We have a 02 Sport Trac that has intermittent brake light problem. All other functions for the bulb filament for the brake lights work! Turn signal and flashers work great. The brake light that is above the rear window works, BUT the brake lights on the rear of the Sport Trac work when they what to.
Right now I can not find a cause that causes them to not work or to work. This morning they worked in the garage but did not work as my wife pulled out of the driveway. Last night they did not work on part of the way home but worked coming into the drive way.
2002 ford sport trac.I have been having an ongoing issue that started with the engine cranking but would not turn over until an hour passed. After replacing multiple parts (cam shaft sensor, crankshaft sensor, ignition pack) I am now down to poor fuel economy as the last of the issues (roughly 12 in the city and 15 highway). I was told the issue may be the engine coolant temperature sensor going bad so I decided to replace it. I found this was very difficult due to it being a plug and locking pin design and in a very tight spot in the engine.
I tried to purchase a replacement and the parts store kept trying to insist on selling me a part with threading. I finally found someone that figured out the issue and found the part for the 2001 sport trac had the same plug style with clip that did fit but was shaped a little different on the sensor end which I assume was due to being aftermarket. I noticed that there were two plugs side by side and the one easiest to access was on the left and I was told the one on the right was the sensor that gave the temperature reading to the gauge.
After installing the engine coolant temperature sensor I found the temperature gauge on the dash now will not respond and is sitting below the cold end of the gauge completely off. Is it possible this is because the part was for a 2001? Is the sensor on the left (passenger side) the engine coolant sensor?I would hate to put the old sensor back in just to test if that's the issue due how difficult it was to put that locking pin back on. What to check that could resolve the gauge issue before pulling this sensor back out?
I am going to have to replace the rear dust shields and emergency brakes soon. I was wondering if we have this documented somewhere. The main question is do we need to remove the axle to replace the shield.
View 9 RepliesWrestled with them for a while today to no avail. Can't get the big spring under the lever thingy. I hate drum brakes. I don't have the special tool to pull axles on my sterling.
View 13 RepliesI have a 2000 F350 4X4 with a V10 under the hood and a 5 speed manual transmission. It has a heavy western hauler bed, and a dual tired rearend. The truck has disc brakes all the way around that work great. I bought the truck used and immediately replaced all the disc brake pads as well as the seperate parking brake shoes and I had the parking brake drums turned. My problem is the parking brake shoes won't hold the truck at all and never have even when they were new. The parking brake shoes seem very small to me for a truck this size and weight. I have adjusted them as tight as I can with out causing them to drag when they are released. Is this a common problem for this type of parking brake on this type of truck? Is there something I am over looking or need to do to perhaps improve the parking brake? Would it be possible to splice some sort of "locking" valve into the brake lines going to the disc brakes to perhaps hold them engaged when I park the truck? I have a good idea how air brakes work, so I suppose this "locking" valve would work like that except basically opposite of a locking air brake valve, if that makes any sense.
View 14 RepliesI changed over to summer tires today on my 1999 4wd F350 diesel . While the front tires were off of the ground, I tried rotating the wheels by hand to see what the resistance was like. I was surprised at how stiff they were. It would take three fingers to rotate the wheel and as soon as I stopped applying pressure the wheel stopped turning. I pulled the rims off and found that the calipers appeared to be contacting the rotors and causing resistance.
My last rig was a 1960s 4wd F250 that had calipers that could be adjusted manually. I kept these adjusted so the calipers were almost touching the rotors. I could spin the rims with one finger and the wheel would turn for 30 seconds or so until coming to a stop. Is this normal?
I have a 2008 f-250 2 days ago all light stopped work except the head lights found a blown fuse replaced with a new fuse and now all the lights work except the right rear brake and signal but the running light works so i know its getting power looked at the wireing and it all looked good to me oh ya pulled my trailer in and same thing everything worked but the right brake and signal ....
View 4 RepliesI just replaced the rear brake shoes and they seem really tight to the drum on the left side. Right side was liitle tight but OK. Self adjuster is screwed all the way in so I'm not sure why this happened.
View 16 RepliesI replaced the brake shoes on my 99 Altima for the first time yesterday. Never done this job before. It went well except on the driver side, when I was pushing the piston back in to insert the new shoe, a little brake fluid leaked out of the seal on the wheel cylinder. Is this normal? I plan to check the brake fluid level over the next few days to see if it goes down. I'm worried I could have a dangerous leak.
View 19 RepliesI took my car in about three months ago when brake indicator started squeaking in the rear. Shop told me that the drums, shoes and wheel cylinders needed replacing. After spending a few hundred replacing all those parts, the squeaking began. It's a kind of rhythmic squeak that starts towards the end of braking. the rate varies with the speed of the car, so it definitely seems to be coming from the brakes. I took it in not long after. They said they only heard a clicking noise, and that was because the brakes were mis-adjusted. They re-adjusted it. I drove it home. The squeaking is still there. This also happens a lot more when it's heated up so maybe that's why they didn't hear it in the first place.
I take the car back. They said the drum has been warped. They replace the drums. I take it home. Still squeaking a few days later, and I feel the brake pedal pulsating now. I take it back in. They say the issue is from the front brake rotors being warped. I get these replaced elsewhere with ceramic pads. Squeaking is still there.
I take it back in to the original shop because I'm certain it's from the rear. They look at it again and say the drums are warped, again, and that they'd never seen anything like it. They turn the drums. (and receipt says there will be no more warranty on the rear drums... what?)
Unsurprisingly, squeaking did not stop, not even the day after. I took it to a different shop. They spent all day on it and drove it around with me and their final word is that the reason for the squeaking is cheap parts. They recommended I call the original shop and ask for factory parts and offer to pay the difference for the parts.
My Treg is in the shop at the moment to have some squeaks and rattles looked at - and I was expecting to get it back on Monday this week. However, was told on Tuesday by the garage that the engineers had discovered that the rear handbrake shoes had completely disintegrated and that they needed to replace them. Now
a) I don't make a habit of driving around with the handbrake on, and
b) my car has only done 6,000 miles
So what's going on? To cap it all, the parts are on back-order from Germany. Which means it will likely be two weeks before I get my car back. This is starting to get on my nerves. It feels like my Treg is in the garage more than out of it and I'm beginning to regret my purchase.
I have a 2002 Accord with about 130k miles on it and the brakes don't have nearly the power that they used to. The pads and rotors are due for replacement but even then, the system is pretty weak. Would replacing the master cylinder? What about simply replacing the brake fluid (I doubt it has ever been changed)? And/or the calipers? The car is in great condition and I really like it so I don't mind investing some time and money to get more years out of it.
View 10 RepliesI just bought an 02 Eddie Bauer 4.6 4x4 for my mother in law. The power gas and brake pedals are not working. Worse than that the gas pedal is stuck all the way forward (firewall) and the brake pedal is stuck all the way up high(towards the seat) They do try to move, so the switch is working. How do I get them even again?
View 4 RepliesI didn't need to replace the rear shoes. I just did it because the front brake pads were worn and I thought the rear shoes might be worn also. The front brakes were super easy to replace. The rear brakes not so easy. I ended up using a breaker bar and a 32mm axle socket wrench just to loosen the spindle/hub nut so I could remove the brake drum.
I re-assembled the brakes shoes and springs exactly like it shows in my Haynes manual. The new shoes are shaped identical to the ones I replaced. Now I can't get the shoes to seat tight when I apply the brakes and my parking brake isn't working at all, although I can see the parking brake lever move on the trailing shoe when the lever on the console in the car is raised and lowered.
I did as the manual directed. After putting the wheels back on, I applied the brakes "forcefully" a number of times while I was driving forward and backward. This was supposed to auto adjust the brakes. There is no adjuster slot. (The front brakes are stopping fine.)
The old shoes weren't that worn when I replaced them, so the parking brake shouldn't be totally out of adjustment. I don't want to remove the console and start messing with the parking brake cable adjustment until I can figure out what I must have done wrong when I worked on the rear brakes. It seems like the adjuster lever pawl is not working?
NO RESPONCE TO REr wiprt control ?
View 6 RepliesI have a 2002 Explorer that had a whining rear, changed it out with a good rear out of my parts truck and now I have an ABS light on. It says something about input to the sensor and output from the sensor and left and right wheels. 4 Codes in all. I changed the speed sensor in the top of the rear to the one that was in this truck because the light wasn't on before and it still has this light.
View 1 RepliesI am replacing the rear steel brake lines and I have a bit of a mystery...when the lines come off the wheels, I see them going over the pineapple and it LOOKS like it's just coming down the other side into the other wheel. That should be impossible, right? How would it go about getting brake fluid into the system?
I can't see on top of the pineapple, so I don't exactly know whats going on up there. I don't see any hydraulic hose coming from the top of the pineapple. I'm currently clueless as to how the rear brake lines fit together.
I have a 2002 Ford Explorer Sport and after a brake job I noticed that while under braking at slow speed there would be a grinding sound on the front left. I replaced the brakes and wheel bearings the first time. After a while I ended up replacing the caliper itself but it still grinds. I don't notice any wheel shaking, pulling and it hasn't locked up although once I did notice a some smoke under hard braking but only once. I also don't hear any grinding while not braking.
View 5 RepliesAt my wits end on this. Left front brake is pulling ever so slightly on my '02 RWD Sport Trac. Just enough to annoy the crap out of me. Sometimes I hardly notice it. Over the past year or so I've flushed and bled the lines after replacing rear wheel cylinders, rebuilt the front calipers and replaced the rotors and pads. It's still pulling. Is there some electronic adjustment for the module that the brake lines come out of? Does the ECM control the pressures?
View 5 Replies