Ford - Explorer :: 2002 - Replace Valve Spring - Remove Engine?
May 22, 2012
Thats what my mechanic told me about my 2002 exploder sport trac with 4.0. I started another thread here a while back about my truck having a bad miss, turns out it has a broken valve spring. He said the engine must be removed to do the job as its on the #1 cylinder which happens to be on the passenger side and the cam chain drive is on the back of the block.
He said my choices are: Remove the engine and just replace the spring, which may or may not effect a repair as theres no way to know if the valve made contact with the piston. Remove the head and send it off to a machine shop for repair/inspection. Or, remove both the heads, one for repair and inspection, the other just for inspection, and then put the whole mess back together.
Whats the best option here? I'm not exactly made of money, and, I'm still licking my wounds about having such a mechanical disaster take place on a vehicle that up until this point, I absolutely loved and has only 90,000 miles on the clock.
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I have a 2013 FX4 with the 3.5 twin turbo engine. How to remove the right side valve cover to replace the gasket? I have loosened the perimeter bolts and was able to get it to move slightly but nothing more. I also removed the spark plugs thinking that they might be holding the tubes which are connected to the valve cover by round seals. I have not removed the seals since I was concerned that I might damage them. Do they need to come off? If so how do I do it? It's amazing how complicated this job is! Short of calling the dealer service, I have just about exhausted all my usual tech resources.
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I just drained 3 gallons of coffee colored goo from my wifes 02 mountaineer crank case. looking for a motor I am getting migraines because the salvage guys say there were alot of changes from year to year in the early 4.6L that are not interchangeable. decypher this BS. What is the simplest way to match up what I need? Vin Number? is there a code some where? or do I need to track down an exact replica of my wifes truck?
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My uncle has a 2002 Explorer and the driver side rear spring is cracked. I have agreed to fix this as he is on a tight budget and has no mechanical skills or tools for that matter.
Anyhow, I did some reading and have two monroe quickstruts to replace the OEM stuff. I did not want to screw around with a spring compresser and everything else. Were in Michigan, and I can only imagine how rusted the bolts are on this. So I figured getting the whole unit with new hardware would be the best route.
Hopefully these are easy questions. (I do not have the truck to look at right now, and will be doing this Saturday Morning)
I have air tools, Jackstands, 2 floor jacks, a bottle jack, and everything else I need at this point including PB Blaster, rags, pry bars, sockets, etc.
1. I am assuming once I get the truck in the air, I will put the frame on jack stands, and use the floor jacks to manipulate each side of the rear suspension as needed. If I remove the three top bolts, and the bottom bolt holding the shock, can I move the control arm down enough to get the old parts out?
2. What are the torque specs if any for the top three bolts, and the bottom shock bolt? I read the top three bolts are difficult to get out due to limited clearance, so I doubt a torque wrench will fit in there.
3. Would you locktite these top three bolts at all?
4. Weakest question of the day, What are the torque specs for the lug nuts.
5. Anything I have obviously missed? I have done front struts before with a compressor so I am somewhat familiar with the process. Just not on this car before.
6. When Im in this far, anything else I should look at. I will inspect the brake pads etc. Drain and fill the rear diff fluid if needed, etc.
I have searched high and low on the net to find a pictorial write up of the process....
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I have a 2002 toyota camry xle 6 cyl i believe i have a valve cover gasket leaking vehicle has 112,000 miles. is there a step by step removal proccess i can access. I have done one on a 1995 honda passport 6 cyl how difficult is it
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02 Camry, how to I remove the burnt license plate bulb? Took off the underside trunk carpet and disconnected bulb harness, but I don't know how to remove the plastic piece that holds the bulb in place. Does it pull out, or twist out? I don't want to break it!
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My 2002 B5.5 Variant received some "tough love" in a parking lot recently, with the result that one of the front marker lights (in the fender ahead of the front wheel, on the side) was broken. I see that I can push on the light housing and it'll move in a bit, but how can I remove the cover (the colored plastic bit) entirely to replace it with a new, not-busted one?
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2002 ford explorer XLT. Here is a pic of the issue. have a broken right front sway bar link that has broken on the top however the bottom is still attached. I am unable to remove it. The top portion is gone and I am unable to grip what is left enough to loosen the bottom bolt. I have tried pliers as well as vice grips to keep it from spinning as I loosen the bottom bolt. Nothing has worked. The outside plastic OEM piece is stuck in there so well I am unable to break that loose either. I have sprayed PB blaster hoping to loosen things up but here I am writing this.
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When the water pump goes bad do you have to remove the engine to replace it?
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So there I was doing a simple oil change and when I took the filter out I noticed the little spring on top, in the center of the big spring (oil filter adapter) cocked to the side with the little plastic piece broken.
does anybody know if I can replace just the oil filter adapter (spring thingy that goes in the middle of the filter when installed) or do I have to replace the whole filter bowl assembly? And if so where would be a good place to get this part?
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I found a broken spring hanging in my drivers side door latch.The power lock is now inoperatable, my question is can I buy just the spring or do I have to buy the whole latch-? I'm new here and can't find the answer,also will door need to be disassembled to install the spring.
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I have a 1994 Ford Explorer and the cruise control stopped working about a year ago. The horn still works. I changed the fuse but it's still not working. My mechanic checked the cruise control, and was able to determine it was either the clock spring or the control module located above the glove box. He told me it was most likely a bad clock spring, especially considering the number of miles on the truck (385,000). However, in speaking with a Ford dealership parts department, the '94 Ford Explorer does not have a clock spring. So, I'm back to square one.
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I though I would like the tailgate step and assist handle. They are always in the way and I want to get rid of the handle but keep the step if possible. Can I remove the plastic tailgate cover, pull the hande and re-install a metal tailgate cover.
If not, want to swap a tailgate. Its red, has the back-up camera and, no dealer markings and in excellent condition.
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I have a leak between the metal and the plastic of my water crossover.
Do I need to remove the manifold to replace the gaskets for the crossover and if so looking for a good thread showing how.
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My '04 F250 6.0L has 220k on it. I've had the EGR serviced several times and, unfortunately, the intake manifold boiled out in one of those services.
The engine light is on now and I've got "EGR Performance Problems" just below 2000RPM most of the time but not all of the time (runs better when warmed up)
I've been unemployed for quite sometime so I'm going to have to make this fix myself.
First question, of course, is should I plan to clean or replace the valve?
The second is how to clean the manifold chambers (? right word? The carbon accessible when the EGR is removed. I've seen people on YouTube scraping them with what looks like brake tools. Is there an appropriate tool or chemical?
The third question is is it going to be very difficult removing an EGR valve that may have carbon buildup on it? Too difficult for an aging seldom mechanic to think about tackling?
I guess those are good starter questions. I didn't know until today that EGR cooler may also be part of the problem. Unlike many of the people who post here, I have not kept good repair records. I don't know when I last had my EGR valve replaced at the Ford dealership but it was probably 50,000 miles ago.
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Rear-most connection before pumpkin, need to replace the U-Joint. I got the four bolts out at the flange but the shaft won't drop. I beat on the connection a bit, not enough to hurt though. What am I missing? How the heck do I get this apart and drop the shaft to replace the U-Joint???
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I have the 2002 V6 camry and I want to replace the PVC valve. I read through the FYI/stickies, and I can see exactly how to do it on the 4 cylinder engine, are there any instructions for the 6 cylinder engine, I just want to make sure I do the right thing?
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Adding cruise control to F350 XL I just bought. I got a steering wheel with the buttons. But I am having problems with the clock spring. Mine has an 8 wire plug with only 6 pins on the big plug and all of the clock springs I have found have only a 6 wire plug for the big one. Without changing my clock spring I have no where to plug in the cruise wiring. All have been for right year model with cruise and even tried different years but none will plug in under the dash.
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Conversion from the dana 50 to the newer dana 60 with coil spring? My Dana 50 has called it quits so while my front end is already off the vehicle already why not make improvements. Ford used the 50 for 1999 to 2002 then upgraded to the 60, I'm guessing it was for a reason!
I've read this article on a similar project but the dana 60 had leaf springs as well: Dana 60 Conversion for F250 years 1986-1996 .: Articles I'd prefer coil spring, nothing more then personal preference with a bit of better ride quality. The donor vehicle is a 06 SRW F250 This is not what I'll be getting but just as an example of the parts I would get.
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I hope i don't give the impression on my very first post that I'm a total retard......but ...I can't figure out for the life of me how to get those spring line coupling apart! I've removed the clips...but it just won't pull apart. Is there a tool to release the garter spring?
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I've replaced clutches, brakes, timing belts, water pumps, radiators, etc, etc. My 2003 Elantra has 65,000 miles on it and a few years ago I tried to replace the PCV valve with no luck. The PCV valve is threaded into a copper/metal ring that is pressure fitted into the valve cover. When I tried to remove the PCV valve the copper/metal ring spun thus not allowing me to unscrew the PCV valve out of the copper/metal ring. Now when I try to unscrew the PCV valve the copper/metal ring spins in the plastic. I can't get the PCV valve out to replace it.
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