Ford - Explorer :: 2002 - Oil Cooler - Coolant Leak On One Of External Line / Hose Bib Elbow
Apr 8, 2017
The oil cooler mounted above the oil filter on my 2002 Explorer 4.0L V6 has a major coolant leak on one of the external line/hose bib elbow. I've googled Explorer oil coolers and I've searched this forum with no luck. Can you bypass it without any problems mechanically or electronically (throwing error codes)? I have already purchased a new cooler and the lower oil cooler line. I'm just wondering if I should return the parts and bypass it. If I go through the replacement, I noticed the cooler is mounted by a pass through threaded tube with a hex head molded into it for fastening/loosening purposes. What size hex head socket it is?
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Had a small leak on show up in my transmission cooler line at the radiator connection. After replacing the o-ring, which was pinched, I had lost some fluid up to about 3-4 oz. I had stopped by the local VW dealer and picked up a liter of ATF fluid and noticed the colors of the fluid differed from what drained out from the cooler line. Fluid that drained out was a cloudy darker green/grey and the new ATF fluid had a clear yellowish tint. Is this vehicle equipped with a closed loop cooling system or does it use the actual ATF fluid as the cooling medium?
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I have a 2007 Ford Explorer Sport Trac v-6. This truck has been the bane of my existence since I bought it back in September, but I finally fixed all of the issues I was having and it's been great. But, today I discovered that during the most recent work, the transmission cooler line ( Ford part # 7L2Z7890A) was left unsecured against the tensioner pulley. Needless to say, today a hole appeared that gushed tranny fluid everywhere.
I have two questions please- First, need to find the hose diameter so I can do a quick fix insert long enough to drive 1 hr. home? Second, I read online that there is a fluid fill point on the passenger side of the transmission case, is this correct and do I need to be aware of anything else to add enough fluid to safely drive the 80 miles home?
I haven't lost enough fluid that my driving is becoming sluggish and hesitant, but I can tell it is very low.
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I live out in the sticks, and leaked out a lot of tranny fluid. the fill plug in the pan is rusted bad. can I add fluid using the cooler line and a pump? so i can drive it to the repair shop.
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2 1/2 years ago I installed a BPD remote oil cooler with BPD filter. The stock oil cooler was clogging up for the second time and didnt want to chance it. The BPD oil cooler works great. I have never seen high oil temps in any driving condition. Last week I was replacing the hubs and seals on the front of the excursion and noticed the oil was leaking from the 90 at the end of the hose oil filter location. I called BPD and sent them a picture. The 90 is corroded and is failing. They said something about a 2 year warranty but because of the rust they would not send one out for free. I purchased a new hose and the other 90 that goes right after it.
They recommended that I spray it with undercoating or something. I live in upstate NY and deal with a lot of salt on the roads in winter. I do keep the truck clean in winter as much a possible. I am posting this so if there are any others in similar situation you should do something to prevent that 90 from rusting like mine did. If I had known this when we installed it prob would not be replacing it now. Will be replacing it tonight or tomorrow. BPD said I will need a 1 1/4 crow foot or remove the turbo to get to the other end of the hose. Not posting this to bash on BPD just sharing so any others can prevent this part from rusting out.
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I have a 2005 F250 with 6.0 and almost 175,000. On vacation right now and noticed when I came out of a store that there was a puddle of water under the passengers side. Chalked it up to AC defrost. The second time I was not running AC and puddle again.
Felt and smelt of it...antifreeze. Just put in all new Zerex G05 and a new degas tank because when working on it I noticed a pin hole in the base before we left. I replaced the EGR cooler and hose from Sinister about 3 plus years ago.
Would the EGR cooler hose be leaking? I've noticed that white residue on top of the intake around the where the hose is. What would cause this, Heat, wear and tare....my luck ?
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Son in law just bought a 2002 Explorer with the 4.0. Looks in pretty good shape and overall I don't think he got a bad deal. However....after a test drive I noticed an antifreeze smell. Got to poking around and it appears to be leaking directly below the thermostat housing and that whole manifold for lack of a better word. It's a bugger to get in there and really see what's leaking...doesn't appear to be any hoses but given the angle can't be really sure. I'm new to the Explorer and the 4.0. Is this anything peculiar to the Explorer/4.0? A known part problem? Something far worse?
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Coolant leak on the passenger side. Leaking enough to leave a puddle on the floor. This is a 2000.
The water pump is good. Weep hole is dry. All of the radiator hoses look good.
The traditional intake manifold gasket looks fine, even though that isn't really a suspect here.
Looking up from the bottom, coolant is dripping from what appears to be a lower motor mount right next to the oil pan. Also, the area around the crankshaft pulley looks wet.
What should I look for? Could it be a leak from the engine oil cooler? Are there hoses on the back side of the engine? It doesn't look like it's anything simple.
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I have a 2008 Ford F250 V-10 Superduty and recently I had a transmission cooler line start to leak. I ordered replacement lines and the tool for the quick disconnect. The line that's leaking is from the radiator to the quick disconnect. I was able to replace the one line, however the second line (problem area) has been a nightmare. The line cracked right at the quick disconnect fitting.
The hard line is tight in the fitting and corroded. broke the tool trying to remove from disconnect. The line is flush with the quick disconnect. How to get that out of the fitting? or another method of fix? Its a hard 1/2 line going into connect crimped to rubber line going to transmission.
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I've had to replace my radiator twice due to it overheating. I am noticing coolant level going down but I'm not seeing any signs of an external leak. My garage is saying it is probably internal and going into the engine. Says I probably have to replace the head gasket but that will be very expensive.
Could I get some further feedback on what it could be and what else I could do? I am also getting a check engine light on a "lean mixture" issue. Not sure if they are related.
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I've just (a couple of weeks ago) purchased an 03 Santa Fe. I noticed some trans fluid on my driveway a week later, and not a small amount. I took the lower cover off of the engine, and the leak is coming from the transmission oil cooler area. I had hopes that it would be something fairly straightforward to repair, so I got a replacement oil cooler and some spare hose, just in case it was just a hose. After getting the front bumper off, I found that the bottom of the oil cooler is clean and dry-- not the issue. It looks as though the leak is coming from what they're calling the Trans oil cooler "tube assembly", as illustrated on the Hyundai Parts Department trans cooler page as item number 5, part number 2547126011. Am I correct in assuming that I'm going to have to remove the entire radiator to get to this thing to replace it? It appears to be fixed in place, but I can't see any hardware to remove it.
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I have 2002 F150 5.4L gas 4X4 Lariat FX4. Last winter when it got to -30C here in Manitoba one of the lines near the power steering cooler began to leak. I had just bought this truck and upon investigating found that the original line had been replaced and reattached with hose clamps. I had this "farmer fix" redone but then this winter when it hit -30C it blew apart. Obviously something happened to this line before I got it, so I am curious if there is an issue with these power steering cooler lines when it gets really cold. Should I just get factory lines installed and hope for the best?
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my mom's car is a 2008 chevy impala police car. This police car has an extra oil cooler unit. the rubber hose is leaking oil right at the point where the rubber is crimped to the metal end connection nut. since this is a police car the rubber hose is very expensive at the dealer (over $300 for the part only). Is there a cheap way to seal this leak with some form of heat resistant tape or glue compound ? or, can I cut the existing rubber hose and remove the leaking end & replace with a 3rd party rubber hose with the correct end and then join the two rubber hoses at the cut portion together with some creative scheme like a metal tube insert with metal tie wrap clamps? Any creative solution that i can deploy to stop this oil leak.
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I installed a BPD EGR cooler about 4 years ago just as a preventative measure (along with an oil cooler) in my '06 F-250 6.0. About 6 months ago some coolant was found to be coming down the rear of the engine and onto the garage floor but only in the mornings after cooling down and even then not every morning.
A couple weeks ago I did a coolant flush and put the red ELC coolant in and now I can see better where the coolant is coming from. It appears to be coming out from the O-ring between the cooler and the intake manifold. I did check the torque on the stud and bolt and they are tight.
Is there a way the drop the cooler enough to install a new O-ring with out going through the whole process of removing the intake manifold and everything that is associated with that? The thought is daunting...
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Have a 2007 V10 and I want to put in a Magnafine tranny filter. Instructions say to plumb it in to the return line. Which one is this, top or bottom?
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I popped a code this morning PO442 emission control evap [small leak]. Would this be a vacuum hose leak? I did both heads about a month ago. Any way to narrow down the troubleshooting on this problem?
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Had a coolant leak I finally traced to the rubber hose on an egr delete (previous owner installed, not sure of brand). Looks like the jackwagon who installed it cranked the clamps way too tight and they eventually split the hose. I have a piece of heater hose that looks like the right diameter and cut to size should fit fine. I guess I am just looking for some reassurance that it would be ok to use in that situation...
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If you have a coolant leak at the y hose for the intake manifold and the thermostat, make sure you replace the upper radiator hose as well as the y hose.
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I take my 4.2 to a great mechanic in the Minneapolis area. I took it in for some pretty hefty service. Control arm bushings, ATF change, and timing belt. My car has 205k miles on it and I feel like shes got another 100k in her. Lots of highway miles. I mentioned that I noticed a small coolant leak in the right front. He gave a compassionate grin and he seemed to know exactly what it was. He told me about a plastic pipe near the oil cooler that leaks. He's seen it on a handful of A8s. Told me to read up on it...I wish I hadn't. It seems like one hell of a job. Engine needs to come out.
My question is, if the engine is coming out and I've got 205k on it, do I take the opportunity to buy a used low mileage engine and enjoy another 200k+ miles? For those with experience regarding this leak, is this something I can live with, or does it continue to get worse? The system holds pressure as it is. It's a very small leak.
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I have a 2003 Ex with the 7.3. There is a leak in the rear coolant line just in front of the rear right tire. Is there any way to bypass the rear heater under the hood?
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I think that it is coming from the hose that connects right to the reservoir. I have wiped it clean a few times and it always seems to be seeping from that area under the hose where it connects to the bung. I replaced the OE hose clamp with a new one and put some electrical tape around the hose but it still leaks. It does make a slight hissing sound from the area as well when I pop the hood after a long ride, but only lets off a few drips. My guess is that I may have to replace that entire hose but that looks involved as it is attached to several others.
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