Ford - Explorer :: 2002 - Missing At 90k Miles - Noise From Intake Area?
May 15, 2012
The other day my 2002 Sport Trac with 4.0 started to miss badly. It has only about 90,000 miles on it. It started to do this suddenly from one turn of the key to the next. It also makes a weird noice that sounds as if its coming from the intake area that can be described as a "chuffing" sound thats in time with the engine. The intake also gets very warm to the touch. We have since stopped driving it. I sprayed carb cleaner all around where the intake meets the head with no change in rpm. I also checked the plastic hose that goes behind the engine to the pcv valve and its ok.
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I have a vacuum line missing on the top of intake its a 98 explorer 4.0 sohc. I don't know where it goes...
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2002 ford explorer v8 4x4, ok I had some noise coming front the right maybe middle axle area so I pulled the driver's side tire and inspected all the bushings ball joints and hubs. The hub had a little play and so did the upper ball joint. So I replaced the hub thinking this could be the problem and the steering stabilizer bar (all the bushing on the bar where toast). Ever thing was tight but the upper ball joint still had a little play but not enough for me to spend the $ to replace the whole control are (as I am told you cannot replace just the ball joints you have to replace the whole control arm). Any way got it all back together and still same nose. What it could be? Also the four wheel low will not engage could this be part of the problem or one more thing un related ( the four high engages just not the low)...
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I just had my tork converter and flex plate replaced on my 2002 Explorer XLT, it has the v8 with 5 speed auto trans. My question is this : on the bottom of the bell housing under the tork converter is a round hole aprox 1 1/2 or 2 inches in diameter. Should there be a plug or cover of some sore to keed dirt and debri from getting in ?
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On my V8 02 XLT Explorer the engine is running rough like it's missing.
I think a coil may have gone bad,,found a LOT of anti-freeze down in the spark plug hole.
Have replaced the intake but now need to fix the roughness.
Is there any easy way to check each coil? Or should I be checing something else?
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I have a 2003 Camry 4 cyl. around 60,000 miles on odometer and for around 3 months the engine seems to have gotten louder while at idle. At the back of the engine around the plastic intake manifold area the engine is making a light banging / tapping noise. It never made this noise before. The engine idles fine and the drives normally. I always keep an eye on the fluid levels and they are up to par. I'm not sure what is going on and if I should just keep an eye on it. I have provided a link below to a video of the noise. The noise can be heard best starting around 15 seconds into the video and fades away around 26 seconds into the video. [URL] ....
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I have a 2003 Camry 4 cyl. around 60,000 miles on odometer and for around 3 months the engine seems to have gotten louder while at idle. At the back of the engine around the plastic intake manifold area the engine is making a light banging / tapping noise. It never made this noise before. The engine idles fine and the car drives normally.
I always keep an eye on the fluid levels and they are up to par. I'm not sure what is going on and if I should just keep an eye on it. I have provided a link below to a video of the noise. The noise can be heard best starting around 15 seconds into the video and fades away around 26 seconds into the video. [URL] .....
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Got a 97 ford explorer sport that wont start. It will go like its going to start but I've only got it to run with ether then dies got new battery n tps thinking its the alternator because i hear a ticking in that area and the battery is now dead after i charged it all the way up granted. I did try consistently to get and keep running?
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This is my first B6, but my sixth VW so no stranger to them....
Bought this one a few weeks ago and just noticed it is missing the Duct Cover on the intake, so there is a large opening on the top of the intake pipe. Just wondering if this would cause a reduction in power or MPG?
The cover & Air Inlet Duct, which is cracked and the reason the cover probably fell off, are on order, but was curious if I should see any difference in the way it runs once these are replaced.
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Looking at my circle track car when they told me my air intake temperature sensor was missing this is a picture online I found: [URL] ....
The hole is filled with a bolt and some epoxy. I don't see where the cable is for it. What will this do to my car? It is a track only car.
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Just bought this truck and no check engine light was on, went to get it smogged so I could register it and it had the following fault codes: P1443, P0401, P1131, and P1132. The truck seems to run great in my opinion and even gets really good gas mileage. There is a whistle intermittently from the intake manifold area though that is at times pretty loud.
Smog tech told me these trucks are "notorious" for the check engine light going bad and that usually the entire instrument cluster has to be replaced in order to fix it. I'm a very experienced motorcycle /small engine tech but do not have much experience with car/truck engines and especially not with emissions control systems.
Again it is a 1996 Ford Ranger 4.0 V6, 4 wheel drive STX with 185,000 miles on it. Where to start or what might be the source(s) of these error codes?
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I have a 4R100 diesel trans. with a missing chunk by the inspection area. Is it still safe to run?. The aluminum there is quite thin....
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Our 2002 Mountaineer with AWD started to have a clunk noise in the front driver side wheel area. It happens only when you take you foot off the gas between 30 and 65 MPH. If you slowly ease up off the gas no noise you have to totally remove your foot from the gas. It sounds like something needs grease or like a gear is a little loose. I have seen some post about noise but have not found one that happens in this situation.
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I have a vehicle that came in on the hook its an 01 exploder4.0 sohc no start.. when cranking it will back fire through intake. no dtc's however its also showing all monitors not set?? dead battery erasing keep alive memory I don't know. Here's what i do know apparently it had gotten partial tune up all left side plugs and wires changed. All right side plugs and number 3 wire factory. I have plenty of fuel pressure. It appears that all cylinders have 150 psi for compression.
I changed all plugs and spark tester is showing there is spark at the plug, (yes at all) just cranks and cranks and then back fires. I also have removed front ho2s to rule out blocked cats, wires are not crossed. I have an rpm signal which should have been evident when I had spark and injector pulse. have not changed the wires nor the coil which is a 6 pack coil. (Boss refuses to get them for me since i have spark )even though I told him there was some arcing.
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I went thru a 100 posts on "Intake gasket" search but I couldn't find any repair information on the 4.0L intake gasket replacement. I'm having difficulty pulling the upper intake off. All nuts and connections have been removed except for the egr tube that's connected to the upper intake.
According to another site, u should be able to just pull straight up, clear the intake studs, turn the intake to the left and then up due to the fact the egr tube is curves inside the intake towards the front of the upper intake. No luck. egr tube won't separate from the intake. This is a little long but everything has been disassembled to this point. BTW this is a 4.0L OHV engine
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My 4.6 explorer has a spark knock noise when hot. When the engine is cold or on cold rainy days it does not make the spark knock noise. I have tried higher octane gas and octane boosters but it does not seem to work. Check engine light is not on and there are no codes. Could I have a bad egr valve or knock sensors with no codes...
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My son was driving my 2002 Explorer, 4.0L, 200K+, yesterday, and it started making a clicking noise under the hood. It clicks in time with the engine running, but it doesn't sound internal to me. It's more like it's in some of the apparatus on top of the engine, fuel delivery system. It doesn't sound like a timing chain to me, but I could be wrong. Maybe I'm just trying to be optimistic, but the thing runs fine, and all of the gauges are normal. I'm going to drive it today to see for myself. Any other part besides the timing chain?
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Our 2000 explorer xls 4x4 with 4.0 ohv just pop the code for the intake gasket leaking. My question is, would there be any way to tell if it is the upper or lower that is leaking? It has 188k on it but still runs good. I think I can feel a miss in it at idle but it is not a steady miss.
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I'm in the process of changing my upper and lower intake gaskets. my question is, the upper intake along with the tubing on the fuel rail are caked with oil/carbon, along with the back side of throttle body. What would be the best way to clean them?
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2002 ford explorer 4x4 150k miles when i put it in reverse a loud clunk noise but when put in drive no clunk noise. But on highway when its shifts a very loud clunk and like a real hard shift !!!!!o/d light is flashing also .transmission shift solenoid ? rear ?
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I have a 77 bronco with a 5.0 efi engine from a 97 Ford Explorer. I noticed there is oil in the cold air intake area and upper intake manifold. I was checking on things and noticed oil around the PCV valve and on the outside of the cold air intake system. Should I be concerned about this? I have done some research. I checked the PCV valve and intake manifold gasket which appear to look fine.
The PCV valve rattles and the gasket is intact. Granted there isn't a lot of oil when I looked inside the upper intake manifold but thought I should write and ask if this is a problem or not. Should I just replace them pcv valve any ways and recheck it after driving it for a few miles? The explorer did have 110K on it but when we took it apart we thought the engine looked great for how many miles it had on it. We did change out the cam and timing chain but as far as the other parts, we did not replace.
I am also getting a unusual reading to not reading with my oil gauge. When driving for a about 30 minutes or so, My oil gauge goes down to zero when I'm stopped but when I'm drive off then the pressure comes back up. When I have it in park the gauge reads fine.
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