Ford - Explorer :: 2002 - Low Beam Lights Does Not Shut Off
Jun 18, 2016
2002 Ford Explorer Sport .. Just started last evening when I returned home .. Closing lights low beam ( yellow & rear tail light ) did not shut .. Bell sounding .. Not dealing with it last night disconnected ground cable off battery ..
This morning took a look .. Connected ground cable too battery. Expecting low beam lights too go on. Did not .
Turning lights on & off. Head lights work fine. yellow and rear stay lit ..
Disconnected battery, OFF .. Reconnected battery cable yellow light stays off until I turn on head lights, and will not shut off from switch .. Thinking light switch ?
Could a burned out fuse in another fuse cavity cause this effect? How can I test ??
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All other lights work including Driving lights and High Beams.
I have checked fuses.
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I have a '99 Explorer XLT and when I turn the high beams on, the fog/driving lights shut off. Is this normal? Is there a way I can keep the fogs on while the highs are on?
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I think it's possessed! My sisters vehicle, a 2002 Explorer with a 4.0 V-6, automatic, 2 wheel drive will just shut off. At first it acted like it would vapor lock. But it would start right away. then the a while later, (several months), it got where it would drop rpms and the engine shudders, sometimes not dying.
When this first started, the throttle body was cleaned, a new air filter installed, fuel pressure checked. Everything checked out and for a few days it ran fine. Then it started all over again. There has never been a code thrown. All of this goes on only when the ambient temp is above 70 deg.'s. below 70 deg.'s it runs perfect.
Last week it went to the mechanic again and a new crank speed sensor, fuel pump, and diagnostic done. He could not find anything wrong any where. Took it for a test drive and it dyed on the mechanic. Still no codes. What the problem might be? Every Mechanic that has looked at it has gave up, one even saying, " it's possessed."
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The 4x4 lights do not come on. I have check all fuses. I have replaced my module still nothing. I guess I could try another module but dam I am really at a dead end before I have to take it to Ford dealer and get hosed.
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I replaced the factory head unit with a aftermarket radio. While making adjustments my battery died, I jumped my battery and now I don't have any dash lights. I found 3 blown fuses that I have replaced, however the only lights that don't work is the dash lights. I replaced the headlight switch and the dash lights are still not working?
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We have a 02 Sport Trac that has intermittent brake light problem. All other functions for the bulb filament for the brake lights work! Turn signal and flashers work great. The brake light that is above the rear window works, BUT the brake lights on the rear of the Sport Trac work when they what to.
Right now I can not find a cause that causes them to not work or to work. This morning they worked in the garage but did not work as my wife pulled out of the driveway. Last night they did not work on part of the way home but worked coming into the drive way.
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I have a 2002 f250 SD v10 4x4. I had a ground wire break fixed that know noon of my instruments work. Dash lights up but nothing moves. Pulse my parking lights stay on when the truck is shut off or when I turn lights on then off. I have to disconnect the battery to get hem to shut off.
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Which fuse controls the parking and license tag lights in 2002 Ford Explorer??? I can't find it in the wording of the owner's manual diagram.
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I was told by the dealer it would be over 150 to scan and do a fuel trim on my 02 Explorer, XLT, 4.0, Auto. I can't afford the scan or a garage. I paid 4200 for it and a short time later it starts surging at stop lights then it starts sputtering when idling and taking a while to start. Next it stops accelerating past 2.5k, then works well a bit then stops accelerating past 50 miles an hour. Then it works with an 02 disconnected then starts acting up again. It now either runs normal, wont accelorate past certain ranges, or starts then quits 3 seconds later, unless I unplug the MAF then it runs 15 seconds then stalls. Through all this symptoms come and go. Always banks 1 and 2 lean.
Symptoms
Knock
Rough Idle
Slow Starts
Hesitation
Lag
Stall
Replaced
02 Sensors
Fuel Filter
Injectors
Plugs
Plug Wires
Tested
Maf
TP
Temp Sensor
Cam Sensor
Crank Sensor
All EGR Components
Idle Valve
Coil Pack
For any air leaks.
Fuel pressure 37 or higher
Clean Fuel Pump Strainer
Flow tested pump
Checked air filter
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While pulling the bed and dropping the fuel tank to replace the sending unit, I noticed a green wire that had been cut extending out of the harness of wires that connect the rear lights. a bunch of cars were tagged in the neighbor hood and they probably cut that wire. it connects to a black and red wire in the Y at the harness. Where does it go to? Simple ground wire? No tow package on the truck either. Where it leads too?
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I have a Santa Fe 2001, 2.0 Crdi.
My low beam have shut down. I have checked the fuse for right and left, and as I can see, it's the same fuse as for the high beam ...
Is there any known problems regarding this faults ? Of course, the bulbs are ok ...
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The high beam indicator on the instrument panel stopped working. It does illuminate but is extremely dim. I changed the bulb, its one of those tiny little bulbs but that didn't work. I cleaned the connection areas where the bulb holder clicks into the back of the panel with scotchbrite, no luck.
I checked for voltage, this is where it gets interesting. I measured 6 volts. The other side is presumably ground, but my meter went a little crazy when I checked for ground, like it sensed voltage, but there is no voltage. This could be a bad ground, but where is the ground located? Buried somewhere under all those plastic panels, I suppose. And why only 6 volts? Is there some electronic control somewhere? The Chilton manual wire diagram just shows a hyper simple circuit from the high beam lights, through the indicator lamp, then to ground.
I DID replace the check engine light bulb and that works now (sarcastic hurray!). I have never seen it come on, the previous owner must have let it burn out, but the truck is in pretty decent shape for its year.
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Have a 97 explorer 4wd xlt push rod. The key will not turn the engine off( when the unit is hot) with head lights on, I turn key off engine runs, i reach over and turn the headlights off engine will shut off. Start back with the headlights off the engine will shut right off, but if I turn the headlights on on while it is running and leave them on it will not shut off, unless i turn headlights off.cold start does fine.. I can turn ign key to the off position radio stops playing, so I know it is not the the switch or rod. I was going down the highway and lost dash lights and taillights the other day I moved the switch a little and they came back on the ign switch worked perfect that day.
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I have a 2005 Sport trac and just recently my windshield wipers, while in intermittent mode, started going at normal speed. It started as here and there, but now it's constant to where I have to pull the 20A fuse to the wiper motor to turn them off. A bit of a hassle. The ford dealer gave me a relay, but couldn't tell me where it goes. I tried another part store and they can't find any info on where this stupid thing goes. I have searched the internet every which way I can think of and can't find any info on it at all!! Where is the relay for the wipers? It is not in the relay box. That I can find anyway.
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I have a '12, F150. Is there a fix to keep the fog lights on while on high beam?
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It's a 2002 Ford Explorer with 93000 miles. When sitting in traffic, for instance, my vehicle makes that little rattling or trembling sound as if it's about to shut off. However, it never does turn off on its own. But I'm curious what's causing that sound.
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97 Exp xlt 6 cyl --- While driving at night w/high beams on, all lights will go completely out. Turn light switch off and back on, then they will come on again. Where to start.
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I notice that when I pull the turnsignal switch, the "flash-to-pass" lights are considerably brighter than when I lock the switch forward for regular hi-beam. Questions:
1) does it hurt anything if you drive for a few minutes manually holding the switch towards you?
2) is there an easy wiring mod. to make the locked-on hi beams extra bright like the passing lights?
Why buy bulb upgrades if the stock ones are capable of xtra brightness? (I drive through a remote area daily in the dark that is rich with deer, and I am usually the only vehicle.)
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I have a 2010 f150 super crew, last night when leaving my baseball game I was shocked to find my running lights and my regular beam lights don't work. My high beams work fine but nothing else. I'm pretty sure the lights are an after market light, but I'm not positive since I purchased it used. I looked in manual to check for a fuse issue but I don't see anything regarding the headlights.
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2009 Ford Explorer - 6cyl -4L - 36K miles. This morning driving it, I came to a stop sign and as I was braking, the idle starting going up (and up and up) to the point where I had to shut off the engine. When I restarted it, everything was fine and of course, I can't reproduce this. I have the shop manual and couldn't find an IAC valve on this vehicle which I'm assuming it doesn't have. I'm sure I didn't accidentally hit the gas (as opposed to the brake which I know I was pressing down on when it was happening). Years ago I had a different Ford which had the exact same symptom and replacing the IAC solve the problem.
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