Ford - Explorer :: 2002 - Ignition Lock Replacement?
Dec 7, 2012
Lock cylinder needs replacing. Was stuck in the off position and would not rotate. Finally freed it up so I can remove the cylinder.
Question is, will the key that comes with the new cylinder need to be programed. If so how is this done?
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I'm replacing the ignition lock cylinder on my 03 Escape. The factory cylinder has the little black "wings" that nestle around the key when inserted:
The locksmith says the replacement cylinder needs to have those same wings for him to be change it. Is this correct? The auto part stores have the regular cylinder (with no wings) readily available, but the one with wings is a special-order item and I need this sooner rather than later.
Plus, the wingless one includes keys while the other appears to have none.
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I have a 99 explorer and the Ignition Lock Cylinder went out. I have ordered the parts and plan on changing it out myself. i was just wonders about any do's or don'ts.
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Do I need to do anything other than disconnect the battery to disable the airbags on this car so I can replace the ignition lock?
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My boss gave me a 2002 f150 if i can get it started. No key and no paper work in order to get locksmith to replace key. The only way i have noticed to get it started is to drill through cylinder to get it out. Need to know how to get it going?
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The previous owner broke the key off in the ignition so I replace the ignition lock cylinder the problem is though even with the old one I can't turn the key to lock so it's stuck on acc. What I can try without replacing the entire column? Also it needs a catalytic converter, do I have to weld a universal one on ?
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My son has a 2002 Explorer 4WD EB that needed new valve and intake manifold gaskets. I pulled it apart this weekend (battery disconnected) and replaced (don't get me started on the passenger valve cover with that *@&$^ EGR valve in the way). He's also had issues with the key being removable from the ignition when the vehicle is still running (worn key and/or cylinder most likely). So when I put his key in to test my gasket job, it won't go in all the way. After much trial and effort, I call a mobile locksmith who has to drill out the old cylinder and rekey/replace it (keyed to use the same, single old key we have).
Now, the cylinder turns happily with the old key. In the "Run" position, all the dash lights come on as they should, but turning then to "Start", caused a loud single click, then the dash goes out, and the engine never even tries to start. Then, nothing electrical in the car works unless I disconnect the battery for about 10 mins, then reconnect. Upon trying to start, the same thing happens (good dash lights at "Run", then single loud click from the engine compartment, then nothing. It seems maybe the PAT has lost its memory of the old key?
I watched and assisted the locksmith put the cylinder and PATS antenna back together, so I know connections/placement of that is good. At this point, I'm about to lose all the money I saved on the gasket job to the freakin' ignition issue.
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My 02 Explorer (XLT, 4.0) decided to throw a new code today. PO136, O2 Sensor Circuit (Bank 1 Sensor 2).
While it may be a wire issue, I still plan to replace the sensor. So the question is;
Can I get to it from under the vehicle or is there an access panel under the console like on the 2nd gens?
I have the sensor on order and plan to get it done on my days off next week.
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2002 sport trac. The passenger side door lock looks like it's actuating, but it won't unlock the door or move into the UP position. Can't unlock it with the key either. Not sure what's going on...At first I thought perhaps it was due to washing it in the cold weather, but all the other doors work fine, and the key will turn the lock. Of course, the tiny nub they use for the front door locks can't be grabbed onto with my fingers, but they put big old tall ones in the rear...... Fortunately it's the passenger side, so the wife can still use the truck, but I'd like to figure this out before too long...
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I've recently purchased an 02 Envoy from an auction. There are a couple of issues. The main one started last night. While at the store I put the truck in park and turn off the ignition. The ignition will not go into the lock position. I messed with the key and go it to turn off. Then started the truck to leave and couldn't put the truck in gear. I messed with the shifter and was able to put into gear.
At that point the gear shifter would move from park to reverse without me pushing the break pedal. I drove home and could not turn the key all of the way off again. Moved gear selector from 1st to Park a few times and then was able to remove the key. I restarted the truck and could not move the gear selector again; however I was able to remove the key easily.
I am leaning towards replacing the "Neutral Safety Switch" on the tranny but with my symptoms, I've seen brake light switch, ignition, and solenoid at gear shift selection.
Back up lights do not work either. Since I purchased the truck, I've replaced,
-Battery
-Ignition Coil
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How do I remove ignition lock cylinder to take and get new set up?
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My keys got stolen from my ignition (battery had died because key was left in ACC and I assume the attempted car jack ended in a key theft for some reason.)
The Ranger is 96, tilt steering with plastic shrouding and column shift A/T... I followed the procedure recommended for exchanging the cylinder without the keys:
-drilled retaining pin
-drilled key slot
-manually removed parts with needle nose
-cleaned, greased and went to reinstall.....
I discovered the small metal washer between the green plastic washer and the gear was broken in half because I nicked it with the end of the drill bit. I inspected this and from what I can tell it looks like the green plastic washer is designed to hold onto the metal washer, the two of them together, from what I gather are designed to keep the gear from moving sideways or tilting. I figured that the washer should do it's job even in two pieces if I could get it in there straight and get the green washer to grab it.
Anyway I stuck it all back in there, slid the new lock cylinder in in run position, and nothing good happened. It's in the whole way, I can see the retaining pin centered in the whole from underneath, but when I try to seat the retaining pin it won't budge. I tried to align the parts at a million different angles and I just have no luck. I am planning on replacing the little metal washer, but I don't feel like it being broken alone is enough to keep all parts from functioning properly. I am stumped because I did the procedure step for step and there is nothing else apparently broken or damaged. The only other factor is that the steering wheel is locked and that sometimes made the other cylinder hard to turn, but it freed up usually with a little wiggling, this cylinder won't budge.
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So I have a replacement steering column for my truck and need to swap out lock cylinders. My question is; since there is NO key, is there any way to avoid drilling out retaining pin. If I did drill it out am I entirely screwed'?
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I've got the clutch pack rebuild kit for this diff and I'm trying to figure out how to do this without all the special tools. I found this post from a guy who did the job:
Sterling 10.25 Trac lock rebuild
This is a great post, but I can't figure out what he's doing with this "all thread" (is this just threaded rod??) to get the spider gears back in. How does this compress the spring plate in the clutch pack? I don't get it.
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I spent write a bit of time and this process is living proof i can't do it.
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I easily removed the key lock cylinder but when I went to put the new one in I cannot get it to turn all the way back to lock the pin in place. The steering wheel is not in the locked position nor can I get it to lock. I have turned the steering wheel as far left and right as I could go with no success on getting it to lock or on getting the ignition key lock cylinder to turn back securing the actuator pin. The old key lock cylinder won't go back in either. What am I doing wrong?
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97 Explorer XLT ... All lights , radio, etc. work, so not battery. When turning key to start, there is silence. No click, no stutter, nuttin. Starter?? Where should I start?
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I bought my 2000 F-250 CCSB a while ago and it came with 2 keys - one for the ignition, and one for the doors/tailgate - may not seem like a big deal, but it annoys me to no end.
From my understanding, the truck had previously been stolen and had the driver's side lock punched, and then something happened to the ignition lock to where it had to be replaced - hence the different key. I finally got around to replacing all the locks so that I'd only have one key. I started with the doors, then moved to the ignition (which I thought would be the easy part). I've replaced several cylinders before and I know it should be simple, but for the life of me I can't get the cylinder out!
I push the detent, turn the key to run, wiggle and pull.... nothing. I can feel the detent push in, and the cylinder will move a little, but it won't come out. I'm not sure if this is something that just happens sometimes and there's a fix for it, or if I'm in a unique circumstance and my column was somehow damaged during the theft and that's what's causing it.
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I have a 1997 F150 that I have taken to a mechanic twice and it is still not right. I had a igination switch replaced and now when the humidity is really high
(I am Guessing), I can have the key in the house and my truck lights flash the radio is on and it sounds like it is trying to start. How hard is it to replace the igination switch myself. I believe it has a short someone in the steering column.
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I have a 98 explorer with the keypad on the door. For some reason the lock does not want to unlock with the key. I know it is the right key and they keypad will unlock the door but I am looking to fix the lock just incase for some reason the keypad decides to stop working.
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I just bought it off my friend yesterday and I noticed the back door doesn't lock, the glass part doesn't either. How I could fix it?
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