Ford - Explorer :: 2002 - Front Right Side Damaged From Running Off Road
Sep 15, 2015
My son ran off the road in a neighborhood and hit some large rocks along side the street. It punctured the front right side and obvioulsly damaged the steering because now it drives terribly and instead of the steering wheel handles being side to side it is 90 degrees perpendicular. The service station I use said it has a bent frame and will need to be taken to a body shop. Will the cost to fix it be worth it especially due to its age?
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So a line of panic stops on the highway last night and I lost - stopping an 8000lb rig compared to hondas, nissans, etc. Anyway I just kissed the corner of a nissan xterra and dented the steel part of my front bumper below the driver headlight. Nothing else. It is a 2002 all black limited.
I am wondering about fixing vs. buying a new bumper. A new one from the dealer is 436 and then needs to be painted.
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I have a 2002 Ford Explorer Sport and after a brake job I noticed that while under braking at slow speed there would be a grinding sound on the front left. I replaced the brakes and wheel bearings the first time. After a while I ended up replacing the caliper itself but it still grinds. I don't notice any wheel shaking, pulling and it hasn't locked up although once I did notice a some smoke under hard braking but only once. I also don't hear any grinding while not braking.
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I recently did a brake job on an 02 Explorer, consisted of new pads and rotors (Rear). The Slide pins were fine and the piston was not frozen in the calipers.
Shortly after the Explorer will occasionally make this "thump...thump....thump..." feeling/sound.
It is not vibration.... it feels more like passing over small bumps in the road.
It is most consistent from 30-50mph, but I have felt it from 20-65.
It is more prominent on decel, but you can feel it on accel as well.
It makes no difference if you touch the brakes or not, or if you push the clutch in and/or take it out of gear.
Speed does not seem to effect the timing of the "thumps" it appears to be the same from 20-60mph. I'm at a loss...
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I have a 2003 Ex 6.0 psd, 155k miles, and was on my way to work to a site 40 miles from nowhere. I was about 10 miles from my destination cruising around 65 when the Ex started losing power. I would say within a couple of miles power was gone and i had no choice but to pull over. I popped the hood, got out had a look around and saw no leaks or anything out of the ordinary. Let it sit for a few minutes and tried to restart it to no avail. There was no check eng light or any signs something was wrong.
I just so happened to have my OBD scanner with me and plugged it in and read for any extra codes. Three popped up on the screen: P0232, P0263, and P0278.
P0232 Fuel Pump Secondary (Feedback) Circuit High Voltage,
P0263 is described as a cylinder number 1 contribution/balance. In essence, this code is stating that the number one cylinder in the firing order is experiencing a fuel-related problem.
P0278 same as above for cyl 6.
Right away i thought the fuel/lift pump took a dump on me and was causing the fuel issues in the two cylinders.
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My 2002 Ford Explorer 4L V6 is running rough I found out why I just don't know what the piece is called because I need a replacement. Mine fell off and fell down the engine and melted quite a bit. Also the part number on my piece doesn't work anywhere, that I have typed it in. Mine has a Ford part number of 1L2U-9F764-AC. Also need to know the proper Ford number. I have a picture I found online with an arrow pointing to the piece I need.
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Have been having problems with my a/c on my '02 Sport Trac (4x4 w/ 235K miles) running cold, then hot, then cold again but inconsistently. Aside from the fact that it always seems to happen when I'm really in need of some cold air, there doesn't seem to be a pattern...in traffic, idling, highway driving, city driving, but it does seem to be a bigger problem at lower speeds or in traffic. No issues with air flow or controls, just maintaining cold temps. I've already had the system recharged and in the past replaced the a/c manifold hose assembly, and a dye test was inconclusive.
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I have a 2002 Eddie Bauer Explorer. When running does not pass the third shift.
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On my V8 02 XLT Explorer the engine is running rough like it's missing.
I think a coil may have gone bad,,found a LOT of anti-freeze down in the spark plug hole.
Have replaced the intake but now need to fix the roughness.
Is there any easy way to check each coil? Or should I be checing something else?
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248k miles on it, was taken from a body shop and put on side of road, I know who took it but can't prove it. He is known for messing with ppl vehicles. . Started up just fine when found, but you can hold foot completely down on gas and it's like it is losing pressure (?) , it rumbles and shakes when running and you can watch the RPMS fall while holding gas pedal down (in park) until it just dies. It has an "egg" smell and one side will get hot while the other stays cold. It was something intentionally done to my vehicle. .already checked Cadillac converter and cleaned/removed muffler. I'm not sure where to start looking now, I'm a single mother without the money to take it to a repair shop. We could drive it onto the trailer to get it to a friend house, but barely made it up it without dying...
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My Explorer is a 1997 with the control trac 4x4 system. It's only purpose in life at the moment is to plow snow and its been doing that quite well. I typically leave it in 4lo all the time. Every once in a while, I will switch it to the other modes to ensure they are all working.
Today I was plowing and it looks like I'm getting nothing, or next to nothing to the front wheels. There is some shudder if the rear tires begin to spin, but the front never spin, or lock up. I can feel/hear the transfer case shift when I change modes between auto/4hi/4lo as I usually do, but the front wheels just are not doing their job. All three modes are not driving the front wheels.
The transmission was rebuilt a few years ago, and it's shifting fine. I'm suspecting the transfer case. Only my OD light is flashing, but it only does that once in a blue moon. I plugged my code reader in and it could not read those codes. I was able to clear the light though.
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Picked up an 02 Camry with manual trans and 100k miles on it. It has terrible road noise coming from the right front. I thought it may be tires, so I replaced all 4 of them with new michellons It sounds like there is no insulation on the fire wall. I can not find the cause of this noise at all. It is like driving with the window down!
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I recently acquired an 02 explorer sport. Noticing a loud hum(similar to what knobby tires sound like) at 25-40 mph. Doesn't make noise at any other speeds. I replaced both front hubs, new shocks, new rotors and pads, sway bar links, even tried rotating tires, absolutely no change. Tires are a standard highway pattern , not luggy so I don't think it's those. Kinda lost on what to do next.
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if a 2002 4x2 ford ranger was towed into a shop because the clutch failed is there anyway the #2 syncro or anyother internal part of the transmission could be damaged while the service department repalced the clutch?
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I am looking for 2002 explorer XLT front differential diagram.
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My 2002 Explorer XLT recently experienced a front wiper failure. Initial indications started a few months ago. When trying to turn the wipers on to the intermittent position, nothing would happen. Turning the switch to low or hi then back to intermittent would allow the intermittent to work OK. Issue seemed to be occasional (trying not to overuse intermittent).
A couple days ago, daughter takes off to meet pals, comes back saying wipers died completely, won't move, won't park, no response to any switch position. I checked it out and researched some of the relevant threads here. My findings thus far:
Front wiper int/lo/hi positions do not work
Front washer pump works fine
Rear wiper switch positions all work fine
High beam, low beam and flash-to-pass work fine
Left and right turn signals work fine.
I am figuring the MFS is probably not the problem.
Looking in the owners manual it seems that fuse #8 protects front and rear wash pump relays and front wiper motor relay. Since front and rear wash pumps actuate fine, I figure fuse #8 is OK and the pump relays (#4 & #6) are OK.
Fuse #20 protects the GEM and Memory Module. Since I am not experiencing any issues with dash lights, idiot lights, chimes, locks or other GEM associated items, I am guessing fuse #20 is OK and the GEM is OK.
This leads me to relays 54 (run/park) and 59 (hi/lo). Since the wipers will not run or park, I am guessing that the run/park relay is having an issue. I presume that the intermittent function is cotrolled by the GEM based on the Intermittent switch position
Am I missing anything or overlooking some complexity that should change my logic? Is it likely for the MFS to fail only the front wiper portion of the controls?
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2002 ford explorer XLT. Here is a pic of the issue. have a broken right front sway bar link that has broken on the top however the bottom is still attached. I am unable to remove it. The top portion is gone and I am unable to grip what is left enough to loosen the bottom bolt. I have tried pliers as well as vice grips to keep it from spinning as I loosen the bottom bolt. Nothing has worked. The outside plastic OEM piece is stuck in there so well I am unable to break that loose either. I have sprayed PB blaster hoping to loosen things up but here I am writing this.
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At my wits end on this. Left front brake is pulling ever so slightly on my '02 RWD Sport Trac. Just enough to annoy the crap out of me. Sometimes I hardly notice it. Over the past year or so I've flushed and bled the lines after replacing rear wheel cylinders, rebuilt the front calipers and replaced the rotors and pads. It's still pulling. Is there some electronic adjustment for the module that the brake lines come out of? Does the ECM control the pressures?
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I'm working on a 02 explorer. The front end is howling so I replaced the left side and no change. The howl goes away when braking. Is it the right side then or something else? I replaced both front brakes pads so it's not that.
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My uncle has a 2002 Explorer and the driver side rear spring is cracked. I have agreed to fix this as he is on a tight budget and has no mechanical skills or tools for that matter.
Anyhow, I did some reading and have two monroe quickstruts to replace the OEM stuff. I did not want to screw around with a spring compresser and everything else. Were in Michigan, and I can only imagine how rusted the bolts are on this. So I figured getting the whole unit with new hardware would be the best route.
Hopefully these are easy questions. (I do not have the truck to look at right now, and will be doing this Saturday Morning)
I have air tools, Jackstands, 2 floor jacks, a bottle jack, and everything else I need at this point including PB Blaster, rags, pry bars, sockets, etc.
1. I am assuming once I get the truck in the air, I will put the frame on jack stands, and use the floor jacks to manipulate each side of the rear suspension as needed. If I remove the three top bolts, and the bottom bolt holding the shock, can I move the control arm down enough to get the old parts out?
2. What are the torque specs if any for the top three bolts, and the bottom shock bolt? I read the top three bolts are difficult to get out due to limited clearance, so I doubt a torque wrench will fit in there.
3. Would you locktite these top three bolts at all?
4. Weakest question of the day, What are the torque specs for the lug nuts.
5. Anything I have obviously missed? I have done front struts before with a compressor so I am somewhat familiar with the process. Just not on this car before.
6. When Im in this far, anything else I should look at. I will inspect the brake pads etc. Drain and fill the rear diff fluid if needed, etc.
I have searched high and low on the net to find a pictorial write up of the process....
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I am getting a clunk from the front passenger side when going over bumps or when the road is not smooth.
It seems to happen at lower speed, so when I am on the highway, I cannot hear anything. The sway bar link seems to be the common thing, but when the car was lifted, there was oil on one of the struts.
2008 3.3 Santa Fe ... The car has 115k KM. Is this a normal thing for it to fail at this point? Last time I had clunks in the suspension it was a sway bar link that was repaired at the dealer under warranty. I can't remember if this is the same sound or not.
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