I have a 2002 Explorer. Front right howls. Local shop put new tires on, said wheel bearings are good, it Starts to howl at about 10 mph & keeps howling up to hi-way speed. While driving 55 cornering makes steering wheel vibrate a little, then straight it just howls. I have put on over 15,000 miles while this noise is happening. now seems to be getting worse...
View 1 RepliesI just changed u-joints and the carrier bearing on the rear driveshaft. I now have a "howl" somewhere back there. The noise starts around 30mph and goes away around 40mph. There no vibration associated with it. The sound goes away after driving for 15-20 minutes.
I double check all my marks on the driveshaft to make sure I put it in the way it came out. I put it up on jack stands and ran it up to speed but couldn't replicate the sound that way.
The truck is a 2002 F350 7.3ltr DRW.....
I've got a 2002 Ford Sports Trac that won't start ! It will crank till battery dies but is not getting fuel. I have had it towed 4 times in the past year. of the 4 times,this last time it wont start. Every time that I have had it towed back to my house and dropped in the driveway it has started up with no problems. It will run for a few months or more.This last time it would not.
Could this be an electrical problem.Maybe loose ground somewhere or something else. Would like to rule out some things before investing in a fuel filter or fuel pump. Would hate to buy new FuelPump and that not be the problem. Can't find free wiring diaghrams for this issue.
2002 Screw 4X4 with 5.4 ... Truck has 180K miles.
Howl / Growl noise we think from the front. Both front wheel bearings have been changed without improvement. A rotational issue as it only does it when moving and still does it if you put it in neutral and let it coast.
2 WD or 4 WD does not seem to make much difference. Been checking and testing everything without success. Drive shafts and u-joints are tight etc.
How to test it? It was my truck and is my son's truck now. They have run it on a hoist and tried to determine where the sound comes from. Going to try that again but it might be different when the wheels are not on the ground and there is no weight on things.
My 2001 Prelude (not SH) develops a vibration felt throughout the car and particularly the steering wheel after several minutes of constant highway (60 - 75 MPH) speed travel. Thought it might be a brake caliper sticking, but the car does not pull left or right. After 7 or 8 minutes of vibration, it stops and the ride is smooth as glass.
View 8 RepliesI have a 1999 Ford Explorer that when it starts in the morning sounds like a tractor and stalls out till it warms up after 5-10 minutes. This is of course wasting gas and I've replaced spark plugs and wires and 2 oxygen sensors. After the truck warms up it runs fine but it's very frustrating in the morning and good that I have a strong battery-check engine light is on-what could be the problem?
View 2 RepliesI have a very large rattling/vibrating sound when I am driving highway speeds. This only happens when the temperature is warm, and when a wind gust hits my truck (or if I am passing a Semi). When I drive to work in the morining, there are no issues. When I drive home in the afternoon, it will start within 5-10 minutes of hitting the highway. I have checked for any loose bits and pieces but I cannot find any. I have attached a sound recording of the issue.
View 8 RepliesCurrently doing a road trip in my R and I've noticed after a considerable amount of time on the road, there's a howl noise emanating from the rear when keeping speed. Goes away under light acceleration. I can even hear it over the radio. After resting the car and me (12 hrs) I get back on the road and after a couple of hours the howl comes back. Is it the rear diff? I don't think it's wheel bearings. Tires have a different noise. 2013 R w/ 4000 miles. Or is it just what happens when you drive for hours on end?
View 15 RepliesI have a 2005 Explorer XLT Sport 4x4 w/ 118k miles. I am having front end noise when I go over speed bumps, driveway aprons, etc.
I already replaced the Struts/Coils, and ball joints, the sway bar end links are newer. The noise is almost like a noise an old spring mattress would make.
What could the issue be?
Need to replace at least one rear wheel bearing, but still not positive which side. Getting a whump whump whump and slight howl at speed that seems to be worse going around right turns, so will change the drivers side first.
View 3 RepliesI bought my 2004 RX 330 last year with 110k miles. It starts up every time with no problem, except that It takes a few more seconds to turn over the engine till it starts. I have to keep the key turned longer that my other cars where all I need to do is just turn to start for a second only. I just replaced the battery and that did not change anything.
Is this normal for my RX 330, could I need new spark plugs? It's never been a problem in winter or summer.
I own a 2002 Ford Explorer and I need diagnosing a problem. Whenever I start to pick up speed it starts to buckle and I always have the 4x4 on auto and it still buckles.
View 1 RepliesI bought an 02 Explorer Sport 2wd back in December of '12. The vehicle actually runs pretty well. The thing I first noticed was the rear suspension seems to slam when going over bumps of almost any size or at any speed. Like if there's a sub-level manhole or something that just the passenger rear tire goes over it makes this terrible slam and sometimes shimmies (Spell check) to the sides like Inam losing control. I thought I would go ahead and change the shocks, did not make one bit of difference. I have looked up diagrams on the rear sus and everything seems to be there. Here's a picture just to kind of show what I have going on.
View 1 RepliesThe used 2004 F-350 I bought has developed a driver's side front end howl between 45 and 60 mph over the last 1000 miles. I tried all the standard stuff, rebalanced tires, rotated tires, put on a set of tires from a friend's F-350, replaced wheel bearings, replaced ball joints and nothing has worked.
View 7 RepliesStarts fine. Runs fine till warmed up. Then dies at idle and runs rough on gear till 1000 rpm. Has only coded iac when unplugged. But would idle with it unplugged. I replaced it. Also got crank can code once while checking it ...
2001 dodge ram 1500 318 engine ....
I have a 2002 Explorer 4 door with the flex fuel V6 engine with 157k miles. This has happened twice in a month. You got to start the truck and it starts to crank for a second and half and then it completely stops for a half second and then starts cranking again and fires up. The kicker is after it did this the instrument gauges, all of them, stayed at nothing when it started and then they all at the same time went to the highest level and then they all dropped back down to nothing and then rose to their perspective positions. My trip gauge reset it self to zero as well..
View 3 RepliesI have a 2002 f150 with about 165,XXX miles on it. drove to work one morning and got out and locked the truck and the horn went off and wouldn't stop. after a few minutes of pushing the horn button down and applying pressure it finally stopped. well this went on for few days, and then it stopped so i figured it was done. Well few days ago i tried to push the horn down at another driver and it wouldn't work. then i realized that my controls on my steering wheel did not work either.
View 3 RepliesI have a 2009 Pontiac Vibe GT with about 255,000 miles. Over the last several months I've noticed a rattling noise coming from the right front quadrant of the car when driving at highway speeds (60 MPH and up). I also notice that it seems to diminish and/or go away entirely when I drive in the rain. I took it to the dealer and they said I need a new right front wheel bearing/hub.
View 11 RepliesOk, so I was driving normal highway speeds and all of a sudden, I realize a major drop in power. I pull over and restart it and it changes nothing. Now when I floor it, it takes 20-30 seconds to get to 90K.
I checked the air filter... Nothing. Used a code reader... Nothing. Then I decided to pressure test the cylinders... Nothing, except now the check engine light is on.
The Ol Dub is still drivable, but it is extremely slow and rough at idle. I am thinking it might be a MAF or fuel filter.
We've had two problems within the last week with our 2002 Sport Trac (4.0l SOHC engine w/167,xxx miles). They may be unrelated, but I suspect there's good change they are. Both incidents happened while my 16 yo daughter was driving, so there's only very limited info on what happens. Both times, when I get there, it starts and runs fine. There is no CEL.
The first time it apparently stalled as she neared her destination after driving only about 2-3 miles at 35 mph or less after a cold start. She was slowing to pull into a parking lot and reported the dash lit up with warning lights, no power steering assist and no power brakes and no power from the engine. When I arrived it started and ran normally. She had fulled up the day before after two days of heavy rain, so I suspected water in the gas. I drove it more than 200 miles within the next 24 hours under a variety of conditions and filled up at a different station. I experienced no problem what-so-ever, and didn't bother adding any dry gas.
Then 5 days later (still on my fill-up) when she tried starting it after sitting all day, she reported the engine started but ran rough before stalling and never idled normally.
Doesn't the fact there's no CEL eliminate a lot of the upstream part of the control system......like sensors and actuators? This leaves things like the downstream parts of the fuel and ignition systems. I.e. from the fuel tank / pump to the injectors and the downstream parts of the ignition system.
What are the possible culprits? Fuel pump, fuel pressure regulator, injectors, ignition module, spark plugs, and....... what else? (I'm not that familiar with what these engines have) And of the possibilities, what are the most likely causes.
Started the car got out of the parking lot and drove a few feet till it stalled and rolled to a stop. It cranks but would not turn over all the way to drive. Called mechanic to let them know that it would be towed. They asked if it had gas. It has a 1/4 tank. Tow driver asked the same question. I'm wondering if the fuel pump could be the culprit or timing belt. If timing belt than I wonder if the engine could be the bad kind (interference). And of course cost. It has just over 90k miles and it has received regular oil changes but not the recommended services. I'm biking to the mechanic to drop the key off and thought that I would try it again and look under the hood, but I need to know what to look for.
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