Ford - Explorer :: 2002 - Driver Side Window Failure Suddenly And Without Warning
Sep 20, 2013
The driver's window suddenly, and without warning, collapsed and fell into the door while driving. Fortunately, it didn't shatter.
I pulled the cover and found that the lift cable ball for the fwd track had apparently come out of its receptacle allowing the window to free fall. I hate to just reinstall it as I fear it will happen again and shatter the window.
I heard that possibly Ford has redesigned the cable bracket or some part of the system so that the cable ball can't come loose. Need to know anything about a redesigned bracket or a good way to secure the cable ball? This thing is very difficult to reach and work on, especially for a guy with fat arms!
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As the title says, I have an intermittent issue with the power window in the driver's door. It always works, with the exception of when it gets really damp during the night. In that case when I get in the truck first thing, the window will go down, but not always up the first few tries.
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My 1994 Thunderbird driver side electric window suddenly will not work. Passenger side works normal. Door lock, electric rear view mirror, and interior lite on bottom of driver side all work. Checked fuse panel and all is normal. Removed black triangle shaped panel where switches for window and door lock and door handle stick through and there are no broken or pulled off wires from the switch. The driver side switch "clicks" when pushed and the voltage guage on the dash "jumps" but motor does not respond on driver side only.
I removed and lifted off the large inside door panel, peeled back the plastic waterproof material and have the door panel balanced on a stool from below. I want to check for loose/or disconnect wires into the motor but at this point the diagram of where the motor should be from my old Haynes Repair Manual for 1989-1997 Ford Thunderbird-Mercury-Cougar does not match what I have. The motor seems to be not accessible so I can check the wiring.
I realize that the problem could be in the switch even though it "clicks" and sounds normal but the connections into the motor or the motor itself could be the culprit in my thinking. I just can't see at the moment how to check that motor. The car has 164,000 miles and obviously that door has opened and closed thousands of time jarring the components.
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I have a 2004 Explorer and both of the driver side windows quit working so I purchased new switches after checking the fuses and that didn't work. This is my youngest son's truck and can't afford to take it into the shop.
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I have a 2002 Ford Explorer Sport and after a brake job I noticed that while under braking at slow speed there would be a grinding sound on the front left. I replaced the brakes and wheel bearings the first time. After a while I ended up replacing the caliper itself but it still grinds. I don't notice any wheel shaking, pulling and it hasn't locked up although once I did notice a some smoke under hard braking but only once. I also don't hear any grinding while not braking.
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My uncle has a 2002 Explorer and the driver side rear spring is cracked. I have agreed to fix this as he is on a tight budget and has no mechanical skills or tools for that matter.
Anyhow, I did some reading and have two monroe quickstruts to replace the OEM stuff. I did not want to screw around with a spring compresser and everything else. Were in Michigan, and I can only imagine how rusted the bolts are on this. So I figured getting the whole unit with new hardware would be the best route.
Hopefully these are easy questions. (I do not have the truck to look at right now, and will be doing this Saturday Morning)
I have air tools, Jackstands, 2 floor jacks, a bottle jack, and everything else I need at this point including PB Blaster, rags, pry bars, sockets, etc.
1. I am assuming once I get the truck in the air, I will put the frame on jack stands, and use the floor jacks to manipulate each side of the rear suspension as needed. If I remove the three top bolts, and the bottom bolt holding the shock, can I move the control arm down enough to get the old parts out?
2. What are the torque specs if any for the top three bolts, and the bottom shock bolt? I read the top three bolts are difficult to get out due to limited clearance, so I doubt a torque wrench will fit in there.
3. Would you locktite these top three bolts at all?
4. Weakest question of the day, What are the torque specs for the lug nuts.
5. Anything I have obviously missed? I have done front struts before with a compressor so I am somewhat familiar with the process. Just not on this car before.
6. When Im in this far, anything else I should look at. I will inspect the brake pads etc. Drain and fill the rear diff fluid if needed, etc.
I have searched high and low on the net to find a pictorial write up of the process....
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here's the problem. The driver side front power window will only go down and not up. I checked the motor and the master switch with a multimeter and both work just fine. the motor is receiving power and the master switch is sending power. However when i plug the motor back in and re-install it, the window will not go up. Is there some sort of relay that might have gone bad that is not letting the motor raise the window up???
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Well I was recharging my a/c yesterday because the system was low so I used one of them 24oz cans and now I am getting cold air out of my passenger side and luke warm air out of my driver side vents. Also if I switch to the different vents I don't get anything out of the floor only. I get air out when I select it, but it's coming out of the defrost. Other than that everything else works just fine, just no floor. I've read issues with the blend doors but my vehicle doesn't have the dual climate controls so I'm at a loss...
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My entry pad on the outside of the drivers door stopped working on my 2002 Explorer. Not only does it not open the doors but they don't light up when push the buttons. I looked in the owners manuel for a fuse related to this but did not see one. Which fuse the number pad is controlled by?
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2002 accent with the driver window stuck down. I have the door panel off and when i look up I see the pulley with the cable balled up and two cable ends hooked to nothing.
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The master window switch in the front, driver's side of my 2002 trailblazer started malfunctioning last week. The issue is, the button to open/close the front, passenger window is stuck in the down position. So there is no way to put the passenger window up. All the other buttons work fine on the switch. I've pulled the whole switch out and pulled out the plug. Then I was able to use the window button on the passenger side to put the window up.
But if I plug the master switch back in, the passenger window opens back up immediately and stays that way. I've ordered a replacement part online but it's going to take a week to arrive and I've got an issue in the meantime.
I've been leaving the master switch unplugged and just locking my doors manually, I can't open any of the other windows and can't set the alarm on the truck. And because it's unplugged, it is drawing power off the battery somehow. So I turned off the interior lights and everything but after two days of leaving the switch unplugged, the truck started having major malfunctions, no AC, no radio, no indicator light telling me what gear I'm in, gas gauge doesn't work, etc. So then I plug the switch back in and everything is fine again except the damned open passenger window.
Is there any way to de-activate the front passenger window from the passenger side so that I can plug the master switch back in until my new part arrives?
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recently my friends driver window in her 2002 passat has stopped working. her car has automatic windows and im hoping its something simple. she doesnt know much about cars, but she says that the window was making a weird noise and her friends dad thought maybe it came off of the track. the window was rolling down halfway than bumping its self back up. than one day it got stuck down at halfway so her friends dad pulled it shut. And now the window is completely stuck up. all of the other windows are working fine.
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I have 2002 sc430 that i purchase new. I now have a rattle from roof on driver side back behind my head above the little window....
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So now my window won't go down.. Any clue if it's the regulator or the motor? When i push the button it makes a click noise but nothing happens.
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2001 Ranger 4 liter 4 door My driver side window goes up and the electric motor does not stop running when the window reaches its normal upper position. Instead it goes bang-bang-bang until I take my finger off of the switch. I'm guessing there is a limit switch that should disconnect the motor but has failed. The bang-bang (again I'm guessing) probably is some sort of a spring loaded torque limiter to protect the motor. Other than that, the window goes up & down as it normally should. I have no problem digging into the door, except with the window, door lock and outside mirror switches, I don't have a clue regarding how to get the inside door panel off. I know to disconnect the battery 1st.
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My 2002 Explorer XLT recently experienced a front wiper failure. Initial indications started a few months ago. When trying to turn the wipers on to the intermittent position, nothing would happen. Turning the switch to low or hi then back to intermittent would allow the intermittent to work OK. Issue seemed to be occasional (trying not to overuse intermittent).
A couple days ago, daughter takes off to meet pals, comes back saying wipers died completely, won't move, won't park, no response to any switch position. I checked it out and researched some of the relevant threads here. My findings thus far:
Front wiper int/lo/hi positions do not work
Front washer pump works fine
Rear wiper switch positions all work fine
High beam, low beam and flash-to-pass work fine
Left and right turn signals work fine.
I am figuring the MFS is probably not the problem.
Looking in the owners manual it seems that fuse #8 protects front and rear wash pump relays and front wiper motor relay. Since front and rear wash pumps actuate fine, I figure fuse #8 is OK and the pump relays (#4 & #6) are OK.
Fuse #20 protects the GEM and Memory Module. Since I am not experiencing any issues with dash lights, idiot lights, chimes, locks or other GEM associated items, I am guessing fuse #20 is OK and the GEM is OK.
This leads me to relays 54 (run/park) and 59 (hi/lo). Since the wipers will not run or park, I am guessing that the run/park relay is having an issue. I presume that the intermittent function is cotrolled by the GEM based on the Intermittent switch position
Am I missing anything or overlooking some complexity that should change my logic? Is it likely for the MFS to fail only the front wiper portion of the controls?
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So the two windows on the passenger side have fallen and can't get up. These regulators you gotta buy to fix the problem cost a ton, and just as much to have installed. Why on earth can you not buy the little plastic brackets to fix the problem instead of the whole regulator? If there IS a way to buy these brackets, it would be keen to know...
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My son has an '03 Explorer. The passenger side window will not go down. We took the panel off the door and used a volt meter to check to see if voltage was coming from the switch to the motor. Both the up and down side of the motor pigtail was getting fire from both the driver side switch and the passenger side switch. We bought a used window assembly (cables, motor, etc) and tried the switches. The switch worked until the window was fully extended to the up/closed position, then would not go down...just like the one in the door. Took the motor off the window assembly (the original one still in the door) and tried the switch and it works fine...both up and down. There seems to be a limit switch or something that knows when something has over extended.
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Just got my 2012 Prius from the body shop. Got hit in the rear where the starting battery is.
Had window control problems since battery was replaced.
Problem is that the driver-side rear window can't be controlled by the driver. It works fine with its own control but not from up front. The light on that windows button is not lit like the others. When pressed it lights and when released it blinks a few times and goes out. I unhooked the starting batter to try and reset things with no luck.
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I had a couple of questions about a 2006 Lexus GS300.
The reason I came here is because her GS300 has 3 issues and being this thing is one massive computer... I figured I'd ask you about them and make sure I wasn't getting in over my head in case the repair costs would be substantial.
1st issue: When sitting in the front passenger seat or either back seat with a window, the window goes down fine when using that switch. When sitting in the drivers seat, the only window the driver can put down is the drivers window. The passenger front/rear and drivers rear does not work. Is this a known issue? How to resolve?
2nd issue: When listening to music, regardless of output (xm, fm, cd, etc), audio is only coming out of the passenger side of the car. There is nothing coming out of any speaker on the drivers side. Possible amp issue?
3rd issue: When trying to operate the moonroof, nothing is done automatically. My mother tells me she used to hit open, and the moonroof would open automatically, same with closing. Now, you have to hold the button down manually to get it to the location you want and have to play with the button to get it to shut properly.
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The driver side window does not always go up. It will be fine for days then one day it will not go up. Shutting off the engine and then turning the key back on and the window will go up. I recently replaced the windows switch in the driver's door. What else might cause this?
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