Ford - Explorer :: 2002 - Door Panel Tops Worn / Dried And Faded?
Sep 12, 2014
I have an 02 explorer xlt with tan interior. The tops of the door panels are kinda worn dried and faded. Any good quality paint/ dye I can get to repaint these and what the actual color is?
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Was rolling up my window and I heard a pop and the crank just turned and the window just faded down into door, how difficult it is to replace it, seems like it works on a cable system from what I can see. Last time i dug into a door frame it was a gear type system, got the window jammed up with a piece of wood till the weekend....
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My rear springs are worn out
apparently ... it's not a pickup ...
seriously though ... they are worn out
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I'm thinking about buying a 98 Explorer that has an ABS light on. I haven't looked at it yet. In the ad, the seller claims it's due to worn brake pads in the rear. If that's true, then it's not a big deal. Can the ABS light be set by worn pads? Most of my cars are too old to detect this, but even if they did, I wouldn't know because I never let my pads get that low.
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02 limited explorer with 114k. The door ajar light keeps staying on and the dome light wont go off. This has happened 5 times now in 2 days. I open and close each door and hatch a couple times and it eventually goes away or I turn off vehicle and restart trying to clear message. How do I test and locate where the issue is coming from?
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i've got a 2002 explorer xlt and the door ajar light stays on. all the doors properly close. What would cause this ?
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My door ajar light & bell goes on and off at random. It's also setting off the alarm when the doors are locked. What might be causing this.
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2002 sport trac. The passenger side door lock looks like it's actuating, but it won't unlock the door or move into the UP position. Can't unlock it with the key either. Not sure what's going on...At first I thought perhaps it was due to washing it in the cold weather, but all the other doors work fine, and the key will turn the lock. Of course, the tiny nub they use for the front door locks can't be grabbed onto with my fingers, but they put big old tall ones in the rear...... Fortunately it's the passenger side, so the wife can still use the truck, but I'd like to figure this out before too long...
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My entry pad on the outside of the drivers door stopped working on my 2002 Explorer. Not only does it not open the doors but they don't light up when push the buttons. I looked in the owners manuel for a fuse related to this but did not see one. Which fuse the number pad is controlled by?
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We all know the front door speakers on these are horrible. I am changing them out all the time under warranty for being blown. In doing so I decided it was time for a video on how to remove the door panel without damage to get at the speakers and swap in aftermarket etc.
2009+ Ford F150 Front Door Speaker Replacement- Door Panel Removal Procedure - YouTube ....
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My 2008 Camry door check stop on driver side is worn out. Is worn out to the point that when I open the door the check stop does nothing. It keeps on swinging until the door is wide open. On a couple of occasions in parking lot almost to hit some cars that were driving pulling next to me. I went to the dealer and they will not cover it under warranty. It now has 66700 miles on it. It started doing this around 45000 miles or so. Car is US made. I am thinking maybe the Japan built is more durable it will not wear out that fast. I could get the US version but I don't want to replace it again in 45000 miles. If the Japan built is better I would buy it. Right side is fine.
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The rear driver's door on my car won't unlock. Manually, or remotely from any switch or remote. When we hit the door lock button on the remote or driver's door, there is no sound from the rear door. I can't open it manually either lock unlock, etc......
How can i remove the door panel while the door is locked? replacing the actuator assembly is no big deal as I have done it to the passenger front door, but I was able to get the door open to remove the panel. i don't believe I can remove the rear panel without getting the door open...
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My drivers side window slide (crashed, but didn't break) into the door panel. When I try to put the window up, I hear clicking noises. All other windows work fine.
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My power window on the driver side works. But tops at 3/4 way down. Ivan repulse the button several times to get it all the way down and occasionally it will work on the auto down. But rarely. What's wrong. Probably switch. .. ..
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I believe I am having spooling issues with my 2000 f250 7.3 automatic truck. I now am running a 67mm billet compressor wheel with a 1.00ar turbine housing and high flow outlet so basically a thrust bearing 38r . I'm running oem sticks and PHP tunes on my hydra. On the 140 tune egts top out at 1200* uphill. So egts are not a problem. Boost tops out at 29-30 psi and 1-3 down the interstate. I see a lot of trucks that can hit 20+ psi in second by just squashing the skinny petal and I could also do this with my oem turbo. Mine takes awhile to get psi up like I said it will hit 30 if I'm petal to the carpet for a few and get going but I feel like it's not spooling as quickly as it "should ".
I completely built this turbo with new parts nothing was reused down to the heat shield behind the turbine wheel inside the turbine housing. I used all American And Canadian built parts . 360 thrust and a banks 1.00 turbine housing. When I bought the turbine shaft and compressor wheel it stated that they where pre balanced and I could clearly see the balancing marks on both but the shaft and compressor wheel are from two different manufacturers so there was no way to be sure that everything would align and be balanced. Basically my question is do you think it would to be wise to have the assembly balanced? Could this be the reason the turbo doesn't spool as fast as my oem gtp38 did . I've been running the turbo for four months now .
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2008 Ford Explorer with 100,000 miles on it. My wife's car, and the last couple of times I've driven it I get a whiff of gasoline every now and then. I've looked at the engine and underneath the vehicle and have found no visible signs of a leak. Last night I walked by the car and smelled gasoline around the driver's rear quarter-panel. That is the opposite side of the fuel tank filler tube but it makes me think it could be fuel tank related. Where to start looking? Maybe a pin-hole in a line somewhere? Fuel filter? Fuel pump?
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If its a fuse what else will not be working? I have not tested with a test light yet but both door panel lights don't work. All the other interior lights work. 1999 ext cab.
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Will interior door panels from a '91 Aerostar fit a '96? No power windows or locks. The panels in our '96 are busted and I found a good set in the salvage yard in a '91. Lady at salvage yard says they're different, but I'm not so sure. Also, will the windshields swap?
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Isn't it suppose to automatically stop? Every time I pump gas at any station gas will shoot out right when it tops off. What could be the reason for this?
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The red door panel light that comes on when the door is open did not work on my 04 F250 Lariat. I removed the door panel to fine there is no whires for a light. My 01 xlt has them, were they a option?
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I can't figure out how to open the door panel driver side.
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