Ford - Explorer :: 2002 - Door Lock Actuating / Won't Unlock Or Move Into Up Position
Jan 11, 2016
2002 sport trac. The passenger side door lock looks like it's actuating, but it won't unlock the door or move into the UP position. Can't unlock it with the key either. Not sure what's going on...At first I thought perhaps it was due to washing it in the cold weather, but all the other doors work fine, and the key will turn the lock. Of course, the tiny nub they use for the front door locks can't be grabbed onto with my fingers, but they put big old tall ones in the rear...... Fortunately it's the passenger side, so the wife can still use the truck, but I'd like to figure this out before too long...
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I am getting ready to tackle a few projects on the new X. First I would like to fix the door locks. passenger side front, it makes a noise when i hit the lock/unlock button, but doesn't move. Hoping it is the actuator but wanted to make sure first. Is the actuator the first culprit to fix? I guess, How do i know it is the actuator? Wanna order them from rockauto soon. I've researched on here door actuators, looks pretty simple.
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I have a 98 explorer with the keypad on the door. For some reason the lock does not want to unlock with the key. I know it is the right key and they keypad will unlock the door but I am looking to fix the lock just incase for some reason the keypad decides to stop working.
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So last night I tried to lock my car door i put the key in and tried to turn it to lock it and it wouldn't move as if it were stuck or something so i had to lock it from the passenger side and this morning i went to go check it out and sprayed a little bit of WD-40 on the key and inside the part the key goes in since it wouldn't move and was stuck i thought that might have worked but instead all it did was make it worse now it just spins in circles freely without locking or unlocking my doors i have to do it from the passenger side ...
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This afternoon the Passenger door lock would not unlock, with switch, key fob or door pad,you can hear it and the lock rod moves a little but will not unlock. Now it won't lock or unlock, you can hear the actuator and see the lock rod move a little but it just won't get there. Should I get a part in hand before I tear into it or could it be a easy fix with no parts. 2002 Ex XLT 4X4
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I just replaced my door latch module (drivers side) on my 2002 gti 1.8t. Now I can't unlock or lock my doors using the key fob or the door controls inside. I'm stuck....
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So, I got my explorer about 3 months ago and it has never locked, the door ajar light was always on and I fixed that by using some WD-40.
Now that the door light is off, the explorer beeps once when i lock it using the key fob but it doesn't actually lock. When I use the lock switch in the rear (by the spare wheel tools) it will lock and unlock. The driver's door lock switch won't lock or unlock, the passenger will unlock but won't lock.
Stock alarm system.
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I have a problem with an 2000 F250 7.3 6spd. Recently, the "key in the ignition" chime kept dinging even when no key was in the ignition. I read in the forums that a wire can be disconnected to stop the chime. The problem is that after I re-install the cylinder lock, I cannot move the key to the off position to remove the key. I can rotate it to start and run, but it won't move backwards to the off or acc position.
The truck has this little lever that normally needs to be pushed to allow key to be released, but even after pushing that, turning the steering wheel back and forth, and messing with the tilt, I still can't get the key into the off position. I have removed the cylinder and it looks good. It rotates properly and I can remove the key, but only when it isn't installed. I tried replacing the ignition switch, but the lock cylinder still doesn't move.
I have an 04 F250 that I've tried swapping the lock cylinders from the 04 to the 00, but it still doesn't turn. What might be the cause/fix? Also, the 2000 F250 has a intermittent chirping/squeaking sound under the dash that happens even when the batteries are disconnected - might this be a malfunctioning vacuum motor? It happens even though the truck hasn't been driven for a week.
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I own a 2001 Honda CRV and have realized that I will never own another Honda because it has had many of the exact same problems that my old Accord did. Seems certain things just break on Hondas. However, unlike the last car, I have decided that doing the repairs myself would be a cheaper way to fix these minor problems. To the point: A few months ago, my driver's side door lock started acting up. (Note: I quit using the keyless entry a long time ago and simply use the key). At first, it randomly wouldn't lock/unlock along with the others. However, simply using the key or pushing/pulling on the lock knob did the trick. As time went on, the lock got more and more stubborn. Eventually, it took turning the key (hard) at the same time as pulling on the lever to unlock the door. Locking it still was not a problem. Now, even that does not work, and the only way to unlock it is to pull hard on the outside handle while pulling on the lock knob (this requires the window being down and is therefore impractical for any kind of daily use). Hence, I am resigned to climbing in the passenger door. After reading that Hondas usually have this problem and that it is usually the door lock actuator that is the problem, I purchased a new lock mechanism and actuator (I figured replacing the entire thing couldn't hurt...). So, I have replaced the entire mechanism within the door. However, the problem is still exactly the same. What else could this be?
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I have a 2008 Camry Hybrid with about 125k miles. A few thousand miles ago the door locks have been displaying portions of the following issues and then finally ended up with all these issues described:
Driver door lock: (OK)
- Opening door when in locked state by using latch, works
- Manually toggling lock/unlock on the door works
- Power door lock switch locks and unlocks door
Front passenger door lock: (Issue)
- Opening door when in locked state by using latch, works
- Power door lock switch on this door or driver door, does NOT lock/unlock door
- Manually toggling lock/unlock on the door works
Rear right door lock: (Intermittent Issue)
- Opening door when in locked state by using latch, works
- Power door lock switch on driver and passenger doors intermittently fail to lock/unlock this door
- Manually toggling lock/unlock on the door works
Rear left door lock: (Issue)
- Opening door when in locked state by using latch, does NOT open the door
- Power door lock switch on driver and passenger door does NOT lock/unlock this door
- Manually toggling lock/unlock on the door works
What specific parts would need to be replaced?
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Recently, I've been having issues with my door locks. When exiting the car, and pressing the door lock on the outside handle, I would here the door lock solenoid fire once, then open, and the door would not lock. Same thing would happen when I used the FOB. The door would not lock. On occasion, I would get the door to lock, and stay locked by using the door lock inside the car when the door was open.
On the occasions when I did get the door locked, I then had issues unlocking. If I approached the drivers door to unlock the door, the car would just keep repeatedly beeping, and would not unlock the drivers door. But, the back door would unlock, so I could reach in, and open the drivers door from the back.
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I have a 2003 Lexus GS 300 with 125k. Two problems. First, the back doors don't lock or unlock electronically (well, very rarely one will unlock). The only way to lock/unlock them is to manually reach around. It started with the driver's side back door almost two years ago, and in the past 7-8 months the other one started doing the same thing.
Also, the steering wheel automatically moves out of position when the key is removed, and automatically back into position when the car is started. A nice feature, but the steering wheel screams when it moves up and down. It's loud and embarrassing.
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I have a 03 Excursion. The door lock buttons work perfectly to lock the doors but nothing happens when I try to unlock with the buttons on the doors. However the key fob and keypad entry work flawlessly. I was sure it was the drivers side master switch but replaced it with a brand new one today still doesn't do anything, no sound from actuators or any relay click nothing but the mechanical click of the contacts in the switch.
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Just recently bought a 1996 Explorer and I notice the power door locks will all unlock fine but when I hit the switch for the LOCK they don't work. It's the same from both PL switches. I've also noticed that I can't unlock the car using the key on either side. Not sure if these issues are connected or not.
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I have a 98 explorer, I try to unlock the drivers door with the key and I can turn it to lock the door but it will not unlock it however I can go as far as I can and unlock all the doors, now the strange part (to me anyway) I can not unlock the door from the inside either by using the power lock or by trying to unlock it manually....
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I have a 2001 Ford Explorer Sport 2 Door. Recently, I have been having trouble with my driver side door lock. Sometimes, but not always, the driver side door will not unlock with the keyfob, the actual key, door panel keyless entry, or unlock button inside the car. I hear the mechanisms working to unlock the door, but then it immediately locks itself back. The passenger side door unlocks fine with the keyfob. My solution has been to unlock the passenger side door and climb over and manually pull the driver side door handle which finally releases the lock and opens the door. What I can do to fix the problem?
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We have a 2000 Ford Explorer and the Driver's side electronic door lock will only unlock during warm weather. The lock will work to lock the doors, but if the temperature is below a certain degree, the door won't unlock. What is the fix?
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My keyless entry didn't work this morning on the way to work....the parking lights came on and stayed on awhile but no dice on unlocking. I figured no biggie and tried to unlock the door with the key...the door lock won't rotate. I went in the house and tried keyless again with the spare keyfob....still nothing. I didn't have time to keep messing around so I just drove my car today. It's a 2012 F150 w/ a little under 6K miles.
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I've been researching a problem with my power door lock. On my 2002 F-250 Lariat Crew Cab PSD (not the 76' SuperCab)] since Saturday when they began demonstrating the following symptoms:
1) No response to key fob (either lock or unlock)
2) No response to door switches (initially responded to unlock command only)
3) Whenever the key fob or door switch is pushed, a clicking noise from behind the dash occurs for about 15-20 seconds
4) When the key is in the ignition, the clicking from behind the dash is constant
5) Intermitantly, the actuators attempt to lock the doors when I close the door
6) Intermitantly, the locks will respond to some comands
7) Auto down feature on the driver's door window stopped working.
I found the clicking was coming from a unit behind the radio and just above the transmission hump on the firewall.
There are several threads on power door locks and I thought it might work others to have short summary and some links in one post as I just spent the last two days finding and reading these.
The most popular fix involves pulling the actuators apart to remove a thermistor from the motor that is prone to failure. This apparently rejuvinates the actuator motors and the directions for completing this are listed here Power Door Locks FIXED It's a long thread, but there are lots of step-by-step directions including pictures etc.
I tried this on mine, but it didn't work. The clicking from behind the dash is a different problem. At least when I get this fixed I'll have good actuator motors.
The next most popular fix simply involves spraying WD-40 into the door latches (not the hinges, but the latches). This seems to work for many people who have problems with the dome light staying on and other door switch related problems. Check out Door Open Light On Dash What Up? for more info on that.
I tried this too, but, unfortunately, the clicking is more than can be solved with a little WD-40. The Door Open Light On thread had some references to the Vehicle Security Module.
I found a number of threads on clicking from behind the dash and these threads all seem to point to a problem with the General Electrical Module (GEM) or the Vehicle Security Module (VSM). From what I could find, the VSM may have been a new part introduced in 2002 that replaced the GEM (but I'm not sure about this). Here are a couple of the more useful threads I found:
VSM Theory
Dash Open Light On Dash What Up?
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Just bought an 06' f-150 about a month ago everything was in working order and now lone behold a problem. Not sure if it is significant or not but a problem is a problem none the less. To start the driver side door will no longer unlock either door, replaced the switch hoping/thinking it was just faulty but still no luck, tried to unlock and lock it from the passenger side to make sure that it isn't the actuators and confirmed that it is not the problem so I am left wondering what could it be? Was thinking maybe a relay? or a fuse? but Where the relay would be and it wouldn't make sense to me being a fuse for unlock and another separate fuse for lock.
Next battery died after a week of sitting, checked the battery and alternator to make sure that it wasn't those to blame for the problem and both were fine. I know that there is a after market security system on the truck and that is the suspect thus far to being the Drain I am Having, still yet to hook up a multi meter to see how big of a drain it is though. third is that the CD player does not turn on nor do the lights turn on once you shut the truck off and open the door, I have to manually turn the CD player off to keep it from draining the battery even more. Feel like I fell for a little trap buying from the dealership. trying to work something out with them but until I hear back I am still trying to make amends.
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2000 superduty. When you hit the door lock/unlock button, they try but won't move up or down on any of the 4 doors. The switches no longer are illuminated either. Where or have a wiring schematic for the drivers door with power windows/locks? I have done some testing for power, which seems to me there isn't enough voltage going to the actuators, but I can't seem to find power anywhere. The power mirrors don't work either. All fuses are good.
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