Ford - Explorer :: 2002 - Cranking But Will Not Turn On
Nov 26, 2013
My truck has been sitting for a couple of months while I work out an issue with the guy I bought it from. It worked perfectly fine but now it will crank but not turn over. Could it be that the key has deactivated? I looked under the #1 sparkplug cover and found it to be chewed up and the wire shield looks as if it has melted. I understand it could be other things like fuel filter, fuel pump but it acts as if possibly a filter clogged? I realize I am female but I would rather ask here than have a mechanic come out and tell me it's something that it is not. 2002 Explorer Sport ....
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A friend of mine have a 94' Explorer with the 4.0 v6. Fuel pump starts for 2-3 sec when i turn the key, stops when cranking and starts again when i stop cranking. i checked the fuel shutoff switch and it was ok, and it have spark.
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I have a 2002 Explorer 4 door with the flex fuel V6 engine with 157k miles. This has happened twice in a month. You got to start the truck and it starts to crank for a second and half and then it completely stops for a half second and then starts cranking again and fires up. The kicker is after it did this the instrument gauges, all of them, stayed at nothing when it started and then they all at the same time went to the highest level and then they all dropped back down to nothing and then rose to their perspective positions. My trip gauge reset it self to zero as well..
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2002 Camry XLE. Turn the key and get a hiss, not cranking. All lights function properly. Battery is about 2 yrs old.
Here is a video. (turn up volume) [URL] .....
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It is a 2002 Explorer xlt 4x4 4.6l v8 with 139k miles. It runs like a top and is in great condition. However I have a few questions:
Most importantly is it feels and sounds like the rear-end is slightly grinding at low speeds mainly when I turn right. If I give it a bit of gas when turning it doesn't seem to do it. I have tried running a vin decoder to figure out if I have limited slip or not so I can drain the rear diff and inspect it, but I haven't found what it has as far as gears go.
Number two. The keyless entry and remote worked when I bought the car and then about two days later it just stopped working. I bought a new battery for the remote and put it in and it still doesn't work.
Also the interior lights will stay on after you start the car until I hit about 15mph, and also stay on for about 5min after I shut the car off. I am not sure what may cause this. I have owned tons of older ford's but am relatively new to anything newer than 2000.
And I know pics or it didn't happen, so there is one of the door sticker, one of the rear axle, and one of the car ...
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My left rear turn signal is out, the front works but blinks rapidly. The right sides work normal no rapid blink. New bulbs on left side did not fix problem. Could this be a flasher issue or is this an open circuit. Don't even know where to begin testing wires if this is the case.
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My explorer is making this popping/ cranking noise when I back up and I give it a little too much gas. It will also do this in drive and also when i'm driving and I get back on the gas pedal it will jerk. I really don't want to take it to ford...
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I have a 1998 Explorer XLT with the 4.0 sohc engine.
Recently the truck started being difficult to start and takes a few times of cranking to get it going. Once running, it idles and drives fine on city streets and freeways. When trying to start it turns over fine but doesn't start. After a few times of that, it will finally start. Sometimes it will sputter out an die but then it will start right away and be fine.
It never starts right away when cold and when hot or after short trips its intermittent...Sometimes it will start right up...others it takes a time or two of cranking. I just replaced the fuel filter and it did not work. I am thinking the fuel pump but since its in the tank, I am hoping its not that.
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I have a 2014 Explorer Sport and I'm having problems with cranking. On really hot days when its 90+ degrees, my explorer will make a clacking noise when cranking. When its 100 degrees, the first try on cranking will give the same noise, turn over and not start. On the second try, it will start. The odd thing is, after it does crank, it will crank normally when I try it again. After waiting a few hours, the same issue will occur again. I'm thinking this may be a starter issue. I will take a video and post later.
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The explorer has been having an issue starting after its warmed up. Starts perfectly fine when its cold. but sometimes when I drive, stop for 1-10 minutes, it takes a long time to get her to start up. Typically 30sec to 1 min of cranking. Doesn't seem to have any idle issues or issues running.
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RE: FORD PROBE GL (non-turbo). Last week suddenly car wouldn't start Thurs. night. Cranked but would not turn over. Heard click at ignition switch area when key turned to start position. (Although I could only hear one click from inside the vehicle with windows shut, I was told that clicks audible under the hood from standing outside.) Tried jump starting (from a good battery using proper connections) unsuccessfully, repeated tries several minutes apart, allowing longer and longer time to charge. About every third attempt, instead of cranking sounds, I would get silence, with only the click audible.
Temperatures decreased from approximately 50s to 20s when symptoms began.Battery is old but tests good/replace soon: 330+ CCA at 43 degrees, original rating CCA 530 (silver battery now at 7 years. Will replace, but garage did not have required size 56). At that point, the amps gauge read at the low end of the normal range (and today it read mid-way in the normal range).Had car towed to garage on Friday. Mechanic looked at on Saturday and decided it was the inertia switch, which he said had "tripped".I watched video for technicians on inertia switch but it shows on newer Fords. Mine is not located at the kick panel and does not have a red button on top. I am not certain from my experience whether the reset button would actually be in a different position when tripped or he merely surmised that is what had happened, despite my telling the shop manager that I had not so much as bumped a curb. Also, the trunk was not slammed or even opened prior to the car not starting.
Car presumably started fine at mechanic when they pulled it into the garage to put air in tires and back out to the lot, as well as when I started it to drive home on Sunday. However, on Tuesday it would not start. Just in case, I depressed inertia switch reset and tried cranking again several times, giving it some gas, until I was actually pumping it vigorously in desperation as a last resort (several seconds turning key each time), and on about the 5th try, the engine began to catch just as I was releasing the key. Reset the inertia switch one more time (just in case), and after a couple more attempts, it finally started, but when I was going in reverse to back out and then putting in gear to start out in first gear, for about 15 seconds total, I heard a bizarre loud, fairly high-pitched whistle/whine type of sound that seemed to come from under the hood coming through the central area of the dash where the radio is located.
Drove about 5 miles to my job, and about 2 hours later was able to start the car on the first try. Lately usually driven relatively short distances of 2-4 miles, with a longer drive of 11 miles broken up into 6 miles + 5 miles on the return trip the night before this started happening.
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I have a 2002 F-450 crew cab 2wd automatic 7.3 diesel with 298k on the body and about 120k on a Jasper engine. About a month ago I started it in the morning to let it warm up. Went to make coffee. Came back and it had died. It was low on fuel and I didn't pay attention. Played hell getting it primed back up. Now if I don't let it warm up for twenty minutes it won't run worth a flip and has been dying out. Changed fuel filter. Unplugged ICP. No change. When I crank it it will turn over for about thirty seconds then oil pressure gauge moves, then engine starts to run very roughly. It will die. I repeat a few times. It will eventually start and start and stay running. Blows whitish grey smoke until it warms up. No loss in power till CEL comes on. Still not too much loss. Sometimes it takes a long time to get it running. Sometimes it will die after I get out of the driveway if I don't let it warm up. Truck was serviced maybe 3000 miles ago. No water in fuel. New fuel filter. New air filter. It is a company truck. I work for a small company building cell towers.
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I have now replaced hpop, injectors, cups, gpr, batteries, uvch on both sides, icp and ipr on my 2002 F550 and it still has a long crank to start.
It has been driven about 1,000 miles since then and no change. I have no codes except buzz test produced a high to low 1272 1274 1276 1278 one time. Cannot get that to happen again.
It is taking 4 seconds of cranking to start consistently hot or cold. It always starts but cranks for what seems like too long compared to my other 7.3s. I have included a screenshot of the data and am curious on what everyone's thoughts are as I am out of things to look at!
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2005 Accent has been essentially bug free until now.
Drove 3 hours, parked for 4 hours, then when to turn it on... cranked, no turn over. Tried again and the crank died. I figured, ok, no problem, battery getting long in the tooth, time for a new one.
A friend and I were able to push start it (5 speed manual), and yesterday I bought a new battery for it. No worries right?
Wrong. Same thing now. Cranking but no gas/spark/turn over. No check engine light or codes.
My next place I'm guessing I need to check is the fuel pump relay? Should I hear a click a few seconds after I turn the key to on? I believe I should, not sure if my memory is playing tricks on me, but right now there is none.
Relay in the fuse box? Do I need to check anything else first? Have multimeter.
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Today i went to the store and my toyota camry 2002 with 4 cylinder turn on fine. i came back home and car also turned on. after 3 hours, i decided to take a short trip but this time the car was not turning on. there is no cracking, radio and headlight dont turn on. i thought it could be the battery, i used a multimeter and see that i get a 12.6 volt but still no headlight or radio.
The battery is 3 1/2 years old but the fact i get a 12.6 v make me believe is not the battery. I get a little bit of light in the dashboard and when i try to turn on the car it looks like the dashboard light get dim as well as the indicator in the dashboard such as battery indicator, abs, oil etc.
The starter was changed 2 years ago. The car turn on normally before, no sign of long cranking or anything like that. So I think it is not starter either but not sure. when the starter went bad 2 years ago, there was no cracking but the car made a click sound when try to crank. Now there is no click sound and this is why i think it is not the starter.
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What a strange problem. EVERY EVERY morning the car starts perfect. Once it is warm some of the time (half) it will give a long crank approx 2.5 seconds before it will start. What a stupid problem! I have replaced:
Spark Plugs (NGK G-power) cheaper than stock, supposed to be better.
timing belt, water pump, idler-just matenence
Cam sensors
crank sensor (on tranny)
I checked the wires and coil by hosing them down while running. Vag-com says the temperature sensor is correct. No trouble codes except Secondary Air... What to do
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I go out to start the car, it cranks and cranks and cranks. I stop turning the key. I then try again and it hesitates to starts. I give it a little gas and it starts. When it does this, the car begins running very rough and idling rough. When I give it a little gas while it's parked, the check engine light begins flashing at me.
I turned the car off and came back to it the next morning (maybe 10 hours apart). It started right up no problem, no CEL either.
Plugs/Wires were done a few months back.
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Stuck at Starbucks at the moment waiting for my car to get towed. Thought I would post here to get some feedback.
I have a 2002 4 cylinder Camry that is refusing to start. The battery seems OK as all the lights are on. The car is not turning over either (cranking).
The car has had no issues (touch wood) since I got it at 50k miles. It is currently at 100k miles.
I believe the issue is with the starter. When I started the car earlier today, I noticed it started a little differently then before. It took a second or two longer to start.
Does the problem can be a starter? I am getting the car towed to my house in about an hour.
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I have 2002 camry V6, I did a battery replacement few months ago. It gave me hard time to start, cranking but will not ru,. I did clean the throttle body and was fine. I left the car for few days, came back will not start,you hear the starter but no cranking, a neighbor mechanic kept starting and did start. He said it needs tuning. The car has 104 k miles on it.
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This past winter I started having trouble with my '06 Santa Fe where I would turn the key to start my car and nothing would happen. No cranking, no clicking, no sound. My lights turn on fine, radio, everything else works just fine. Sometimes it won't start for 30+ minutes, and sometimes I'll just try a second time and it'll start up right away.
Last winter when this happened my check engine light came on and so I took it to the dealership and they said it was the crank position sensor that needed replaced. For whatever reason I didn't get it fixed and have been driving my car with no problems whatsoever for 10 months or so, until this weekend when my no start issues started again. The check engine light is on again and it's the same code for the crank position sensor.
I believe I will definitely get the crank sensor fixed this time, but could the issue possibly be anything else? Bad starter? Ignition switch? My mechanic can't give me a definite answer because every time I take it to the shop it starts up just fine for him.
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My Concorde LXI 1998 been having this problem lately for couple of times a week. It sometimes dies in the middle of the road and I have to turn it on by pressing on the gas continuously. So, it shows the oil leak sign and it doesn't crank up. I crank my car by just pressing on the gas few times. I have attached the link of the video in here : [URL] ....
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