Ford - Explorer :: 2002 - AC Will Not Work But Compressor Is Not Seized
Jul 28, 2016
I haven't been on for a while but new issue my AC won't work the compressor is not seized it just wont come on checked all the fuses and tried to check the wiring but it is so short then it go's into the main wiring harness is there a way to see if it is the compressor or not some way to test it? It is on my 2002 explorer 4.0l vin "E" eddie bower.....
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I just bought a 96 f250 5.8
Upon driving home, i tried the ac again and the ac clutch started to smoke. I replaced the clutch with one from autozone, but when I tried it again, it made a screaming death noise upon clutch engagement. Is my compressor seized?
I tried to turn the clutch (not the pulley, that spins fine) by tapping one of the slots and bolts with a screwdriver/hammer. It was firmly locked in place. If the compressor was OK, would it have turned easily? If I need to replace the ac pump, who sells a good/cheap/reliable one?
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I have a 2001 ford f150 with a 4.6 liter v8, my ac compressor is completely seized up, I can't afford to replace the ac right now. So I would like to just get a shorter serpentine belt to bypass the ac for now, need to get a measurement on the shorter belt for my engine? and the proper way to re route the belt without the ac?
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I recently had a full tune up at 87,000 miles. My receipt does not mention any inspection of the A/C system. 50 miles after the tune-up, my A/C compressor seized. Dealer claimed this was simply coincidence. I think there is a chance that they checked the A/C Coolant level and may have not secured the valve. I cannot find on the internet evidence that this compressor is prone to failure at just 3 years (87,000 miles).
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Two weeks ago, I had a/c repairs done which involved the replacement of the a/c field coil unit and a condenser fan motor. Yesterday, the compressor seized up. Could the repair, if done incorrectly, have caused the part failure?
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I have a 02 explorer 4.0 4x4 i recently bought and the radio doesn't work the power comes on and picks up stations and the cd player seems to work but no sound at all previous owner says it happened after alternator was changed.
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My ac compressor has seized up and now needs to be replace at a cost of nearly 2,000. Maybe I can go a few weeks with out it, but I will not be able to have heat or defrost as the colder temps come in for the fall. Why this would happen? 109K on the odometer. The mechanic also suggested that I change the timing belt and the water pump (neither are broken) replacing these is also expensive. am I crazy for not changing the timing belt and water pump?
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The car is an '06 Passat 2.0T 83k. A few weeks ago my wife came home complaining that the battery light was on, when I lifted the hood I saw that the belt was shredded and later realized the compressor seized. I replaced the parts recommended; Compressor, condenser,etc., brought it to service station that does our fleet cars and had the system vacuumed and recharged. Now the compressor will not turn on, when I push the button on the dash it lights up but no a/c, the fans dont even come on comes on. The blower and all the related switches works but no power to the compressor. All the fuses are fine, and when the guy at the service station put power directly to compressor it comes on and works fine, he also said the pressure sensor/switch checks out fine. I even changed the controller on the dash, but nothing.
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I have a Sport trac and its killing me. The windows, radio, wipers and 4x4 does not work. I have checked all of the fuses and even replaced the GEM module and they are still not working.
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How to get into that bundle of wires going between the drivers door and body for a 2002 Sport Trac? I have a break in the wire that feeds 12v to the passenger windows. If I push the bundle backward the windows work. The flexible rubber jacket goes into a plastic housing and I'm not sure if I need to pull off the door panel and un-hook or unscrew it. Is there a connector inside that plastic thing?
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I have a 2001 Subaru Forester which has 165K miles. I had the timing belt changed at 105K per maintenance recommendations. I had the car in for service recently for brake pads, etc., and the dealer recommended replacing the drive belt for the AC.. which I did. 100 miles after this service, the car broke down unexpectedly. The dealer told us the AC compressor seized up... and this caused the drive belt to get caught on it and be shredded ... and with that, the sudden resistance from the drive belt on the crankshaft pulley caused the timing belt to slip out of sync and damage the interference design engine. Can that really happen? I surprised that this happened a few days after replacing a drive belt and wondered if somehow the service work done with the drive belt could have caused the problem. The dealer states the service work did not cause the problem. Is my recent service and damaged engine a coincidence as the dealer said or are they related?
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2002 Mercury Mountaineer 4.6L . Ok, 140,000 miles and Engine is seized. Got truck for cheap. So, my problem is this: most salvage yards say that the ONLY engine that will fit into my truck is from an 2002 explorer 4.6L or a 2002 Mercury Mountaineer 4.6L.
Others say the mustang engine or F150 will fit. Can I have other options for a engine swap?
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My wife has a 02 Ford Escape XLS with a I4/manual trans, she has been saying it has been making weird grinding noises for a while but has not been able to replicate it for me to hear. Today it locked in gear and stalled, she can depress the clutch and start it, but can't take off in whatever "gear it thinks it's in" and it'll stall. To quote her.
So odds are the clutch or trans is toast, I'm more of a full size truck guy when it comes to doing work, what to look at? She's getting it towed and I have enough tools to do the job just not a ton of time this second to do the research, When I know more I'll add it.
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Got in one day fired it up and no air. Thought the freon was low (uses a can a year) come home put part of a can in compressor kick on and off like they do. Except this time it is blowing freon out somewhere under the intake like a poppet valve or something. Can't see where it is coming from it only does it for a split second and when the rpm's are up around 2500 or so. First thought was I have to much freon it. Vacuumed it out started all over and the same thing. What it could be is there a pressure relief valve under the intake some where?
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2002 2.7L. Engine seized. Bought a replacement also from a 2002. Tried to start today and no spark. I just replaced the physically broken crank position sensor. That seemed like it would be an obvious and easy fix, but still no spark. The broken sensor had frayed/shorted wires. Could that have damaged the PCM /ECU? There is a 2003 Santa Fe at U-Pull-It that was running when it came in. Will the PCM from that work? I am running out of time. I have to have this running before I leave on a flight tomorrow night. I do have a code reader (if I can find it) but I can't imaging it would have any codes if it hasn't started since I had the battery out. Not sure how that works.
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I thought originally I had a leak so I tested with dual gauges I'm getting 85 psi on low and high side, which I believe is good. So I tried grounding the low sensor, then high sensor, then both, then both just pulled out and any combo possible. Still not engaging. Switched out the relay, checked fuses, still not engaging. Tried taking shim out of compressor still nothing. Jumped the relay and it will engage and air comes out cold. What should I check next?
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He has a 96 explorer and his ac compressor clutch was cycling on and off. So he went and bought 2 20 ounce cans of 134a and proceeded to add it to the evaporator service port. Of course a lot of it sprayed out side of it as it did not fit well (duh). So he has no Idea how much he actually got in there out of the 30 or so ounces he dispensed. He is laughing at himself with me on this. He says hi ahead of time
I have access to good gauges and a reclaimer and vacuum as I work sometimes for a residential ac guru. So what to do? I was thinking the evaporator should be changed out but I want a second opinion. Then vacuum and add new 134.
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2000 Explorer Sport with 4.0L SOHC engine. When I turn on the A/C the clutch on the compressor cycles off and on every 10-15 seconds. The A/C cools and the gas charge is checked as OK. Is this normal?
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I have a 1998 Explorer XLT V6 (4.0 SOHC) with an AC problem. The AC compressor will not turn on via normal means - turn to AC or AC Max, rotate temp to left. It hasn't been a problem as I never use the AC, but I'm fixing a few of the minor inconveniences (dash lamps, re-solder radio) and figured, why not look at the AC too.
A while back my mechanic said he used the Explorer to test his AC equipment and made sure the Freon was good. He said everything was working. I am assuming he was able to control the AC system from his tools under the hood. This tells me the system is good and the problem is related to the temperature control or a switch somewhere.
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I have a 2000 explorer and the a/c stopped working. I recharged the a/c because freon was low per the gauges and then the compressor would kick on, then the pressure would drop in a matter of seconds and it kicked off again. Then the pressure goes back up, compressor kicks on again and this just keeps doing this over and over but never gets cold. What's wrong? My a/c worked last year.
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I had a small leak in my 94 Explorer which was getting on the compressor pulley and being splattered around the engine compartment. The fluid was green like antifreeze--which didn't make sense; why would antifreeze be leaking from the air con compressor? But as an experiment, I got a non-AC belt and ran the truck without the compressor pulley turning, and the leak has stopped! The level in the coolant overflow tank has dropped an inch or two in the last 500 or so miles. Is it possible that antifreeze is getting into the air con system somehow, like through an internal leak in the heater core?
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