2001 Ford Explorer Sport (not sport trac) 4.0l 5r55e 2wd.. Ok so I picked up a sweet deal of an explorer yesterday.
Sure enough I get her home and find out she needs both the rear body mount bushings replaced. Ok no sweat so I go to autozone...they cant find them... Ok I look in the book for replacement procedure... Nothing, To YouTube! ...nope nothing there either.
The driver side front body mount bushing on my 2014 is gone which has the grill sitting on the bumper. I started to replace it, but the bolt is sized to the nut. ran off about 1/2 inch and that is it, it will not tighten or loosen anymore.
I cut the head off the bolt, but can not get the body high enough to remove the old bushing so i can cut the nut off flush with the rad support. Now I am trying to get the air filter box out so i can cut the top of the "nut cage" off to remove the bolt and nut out the top. but i can not figure out how it is held in.
I have the intake disconnected and the filter hat off, overflow tank hose disconnected, and two bolts holding the whole thing to the fender out, but it will still not budge. What am I missing here?
I have a friend with an 01 f250 super duty who needs to replace sway bar bushings.
View 6 RepliesSo I have to replace them since I have this rattling in the rear and my mechanic has diagnosed it to be the rear bushings...
View 1 RepliesThe rubber bushing (is it a bushing) at the top of the right rear shock on my 2002 Santa Fe is wearing away. Can I replace just that? Or do I have to do the whole shock? The shock itself seems fine.
View 2 RepliesHow to replace the bulbs of the rear high mount stop lamp on a 2009 Santa Fe?
I got the bulbs already, located the 2 nuts on the inside directly behind the brake light, but when I remove them, the assembly won't pop out.
I know the manual says they recommend getting these particular bulbs replaced at an authorized Hyundai dealer, but since I already bought the bulbs, I'd like to try and do it myself if at all possible.
I've got this clunky sound I am narrowing down to the drivers side body mount. The stock one has lasted 11 years. But I'm reading thread after thread about stock replacements lasting a year or so before crapping out again. I've found a few people mention the energy suspension lot, or another one that has Kevlar (daystar iirc). I googled them and found a handful of super duty owners who used the poly mounts complaining about harshness and vibration transmitted to the cab.
My truck is my dd and with my new highway tires and stock exhaust it's as quiet as it ever has been and that makes me and the family happy on long trips. I don't want to do anything to ruin that.
Any hints on a easy way to change these.
After I have the wheel off do I need to disconnect the upper ball joint to remove these. It looks like I can just remove the two nuts on each side and use a jack under the rotor to support the weight. It looks like it might shift back and forth enough to get them out/in.
Will this work?
i have a 2008 f250 4x4 i need to replace the drive side front lower body bushing and i can not get the pressed on bushing to come out what is the easiest way to get this to come apart i tried using a 4 ft pry bar and i could not get it to pop free.
View 11 RepliesNeed recommendation for replacement body mount bushing. Surprised to see the drivers side shredded. Poly replacement?
View 14 RepliesThe axle seal is bad on my 93 Explorer, manual, 4x4 both sides. The shocks and leaf springs are also shot. Instead of replacing the seals, was advised to just replace the entire axle and pick one up at the boneyard with springs.
I am wondering what axles from other vehicles will work? I have been able to find this before through RockAuto's website but there is no information concerning rear axle. Is there a source showing interchangeable parts between vehicles? Aside from the body, Explorer is basically rebuilt now, just needs the gearbox replaced.
I need to replace rear spring packs on our
97 Explorer sport 4.0 auto 4x4.
What years should I look for? Will 91-01 packs work?
I know of a 92 4x4 close by that is being parted out.
I'm working on a couple of repairs and have encountered a few questions:
1. Are the bolts supposed to come out of the top of the end link? Mine don't so I don't know if that's the way it is or mine are so far gone that they are frozen in the sleeve. My poly bushing kit does not have any new bolts so I'm hesitant to lay into it with a 10 ton press and ruin the bolts (I don't know how much they are from Ford to buy or if I can even buy them).
2. HPO rail plug. I'm removing my HPX as I'm tired of it leaking (hopefully when my HPOP comes back as a T500 I won't need it anyway). I've seen 33 ft-lbs and 96 ft-lbs. As I go towards the 96 ft-lbs it feels like I'm going to strip the threads out so I backed off and they are at 33 ft-lbs now (I don't need that headache and my wife would go through the roof). I got the ones from Riffraff as I misplaced the ones I took off 8 years ago (go figure). The HPO line connections to the head (or pump for the matter) are 19 ft-lbs. I use Loc-Tite on those but both have an o-ring (which provides most of the seal) so I'm not to keen on gronking the rail plug.
3. I'm also replacing both HPOP gaskets. I know that the HPOP and reservoir mounting bolts are 18 ft-lbs (from Ziggy. in the tech sticky) but is there a spec for the cover bolts too? I know the gasket provides the seal but I'd like to make sure that the force is distributed evenly across the gasket (Sous isn't the only OCD person around).
Hopefully this fixes most to all my oil leaks (still have to tackle the oil cooler). The valley is covered (as well as the front of the reservoir) and there is a lot of weepage on the paper towel test. There are years of buildup everywhere and will take a few tries and several cases of Simple Green to see the metal again.
I need to replace the body mounts in my Ex. How do you do it?
View 14 Replies2016 2L Escape. My question is this. I've had the vehicle for the past 12 months and each rainy season here in California, I admit its not often we get rain but we have it now and its about time. Anyway while driving in wet conditions I get a squeak from what I think is the right rear sway bushing and it only happens during starting out, stopping and parking lot speed bumps all at low speed. No noise at when driving at speed. I've had it to the dealer 3 x to fix, they grease the bushing and it seems ok for awhile but not he permanent fix I was hoping for.
View 1 RepliesWhile driving home my yellow wrench light came on and I had no power at the pedal, even though the engine was idling smoothly. This happened with no warning and went away when I turned the truck off and restarted it. About 4 miles later it did it again. I immediately went to a nearby dealership only to find out my electronic throttle body needs replaced. Needless to say at this time of year 500+ dollars is not readily available, although I need my vehicle for work.
I do not know a thing about ETB's but did a little research online and found many aftermarket ones at a much better price than Ford's(surprise). My question I guess is what are my alternatives to factory replacement? Can I remove and clean this component or replace it with something of better quality? I'm not into high performance with my truck but if I could get a little better throttle response or gas mileage I'm all ears. My truck is a 2004 Supercrew 4x4 XLT w/ 5.4 Triton. Around 74,000 miles and well taken care of. Miles are nearly all highway.
Throttle body failures on the 5.4L 3v are more common than you think, luckily it will pop a code for the throttle body more often than not diagnosing. Symptoms include start and dies, no start, a really rough idle, surging idle up and down more so in park, poor brake assist due to rpm fluctuation and wrench light on. If you find yourself in this situation I show you how to change the throttle body and reset the pcm to learn the new idle trims.
Ford F150 F250 5.4L 3v Electronic Throttle Body Replacement P2135 - YouTube ....
My 1997 ford explorer has this problem that when you start the engine it runs fine then it's makes a choking sound in the throttle body area I have a video of it on YouTube here's the link :
1997 Ford Explorer Engine Trouble !!! - YouTube....
And the truck doesn't give any ob11 codes.....
I've had a problem with non-operational power windows on my 03 Explorer and in fiddling around I've found that there is something up with the wiring bundle between the drivers door and the car body. If I wiggle the bundle of wires I can get the windows operational again temporarily so there is some sort of short happening.
I'm not sure of the best way to access the wiring bundle though - they're surrounded in a rubber casing and the only way I can see to get access would be to cut the rubber casing to either open up a section or completely remove it. Trying to pull the casing back from either end just doesn't give enough access to the wires.
Is that my only option - cut the rubber casing?
Problem on early 2001 Sport Trac 4X4. I don't have the whining but a clunk when I go over bumps. I jacked up the left side and I can pull the rear wheel in and out maybe a 1/32 and I hear the clunk so I'm sure the loose rear end is the problem. How do I go about fixing it? New/used rear end? Mine is a 2001 (drum rear brakes)...
View 3 RepliesI've got a 2001 Explorer 4.0L with around 160,000 miles on it. Just noticed this morning it has developed a coolant leak. It's dripping off the rear of the oil pan and appears to be coming from the passenger side somewhere above the oil filter. Without tearing a bunch of stuff apart, I can't really see for sure where its coming from. Are there any common issues with this? I'm hoping its not a head gasket...
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