I have a 2001 ford explorer sport and realized that the oxygen sensor on the passenger side behind the cat was unplugged from the harness.
I am unable to find the harness and dont know where its supposed to go.
I would like to get this fixed right away but can not find a diagram anywhere, or a manual...
While pulling the bed and dropping the fuel tank to replace the sending unit, I noticed a green wire that had been cut extending out of the harness of wires that connect the rear lights. a bunch of cars were tagged in the neighbor hood and they probably cut that wire. it connects to a black and red wire in the Y at the harness. Where does it go to? Simple ground wire? No tow package on the truck either. Where it leads too?
View 4 RepliesI'm trying to find a part number for the wiring harness that sits on top of the motor and plugs into the valve cover gaskets. The previous owner replaced the pigtails but the wires were cut so far back that there is virtually nothing left coming out of the harness. What the actual harness looks like other than it has the 9 pin plug on it or whether both sides require an individual harness. What is the part number or picture of said harness. Just in case.... it's a 2001 7.3.
View 14 RepliesI have a 2001 Exrursion 5.4L V8. The code P1131 comes up and it says "Lack of upstream heated oxygen sensor switch - sensor indicates lean - bank #1". I hear it could be the sensor that is bad or there is a vacuum leak. It runs like a champ, no spitting, no sputtering, no missing, no ruff idle. What do I need to do to fix it or where do I need to start looking?
View 3 RepliesI have a 2001 Mazda Protege LX 2.0 with 121,000 miles. I removed the front oxygen sensor today to replace an exhaust pipe, and I noticed that the tip has a red/pinkish color on one side only. What this would indicate?
The only thing I could find online is that a pink tip indicates lead in the fuel. This is impossible, since the only gas station I frequent is a Conoco which is always very busy. Plus, I haven't noticed any performance issues from bad gas, and not to mention the fact that leaded fuel has been completely phased out for 15 years. What's weirder is that the sensor tip is only pink on one side - I'm guessing it's the side that's facing the exhaust manifold.
I just posted last week that my check engine light was on and the dealer wanted to replace fuel injectors. But after the fuel throttle was cleaned and oxygen sensor was replaced the check engine light went off. However, yesterday the check engine light came back on. I am talking it back to the dealer, in a couple of days. Where can I go to get to get the error codes read so I have them before I go back to the dealer? Around 128,000 runs fine, around 40 miles per gallon. Last time I had the oil change dealer nothing came up on the 30 point inspection.
View 7 RepliesThe service truck threw a CEL, and i pulled oxygen sensor performance bank one sensor one code. That would be driver side sensor between the manifold and cat, rite? Don't want to change the wrong one...
View 11 RepliesMy Bank 2 Sensor 2 oxygen sensor is faulty and I need to replace it. The guys at the parts store were pretty certain it is downstream driver's side, but I just want to make sure before I PB Blasted and removed it. 2008 F250 SD v10 ....
View 1 RepliesI'm still trying to get my project 2001 Prius to attempt to start the ICE. I can drive the car around electric only, so MG2 is OK. I see a pulse of current going to MG1 as it does it's startup tests. So I'm thinking maybe the MG1 position sensor is faulty. Where on the transaxle the MG1 position sensor wire is located?
View 9 RepliesI have a 2010 Toyota Corolla 1.8L, the base model.
I recently had a check engine light, VSC off light (blinking) and traction control light come on. I took it to Autozone and had a p0037 code ring up for a new Bank 1 Sensor 2 oxygen sensor (downstream). I believe I have found the correct sensor (located under car, approximately near drivers seat) and it looks simple to replace, aside from the fact that the wires go through the car body.
Can confirm that I have located the correct sensor? And if so, what is the best way to get to where the wires connect?
Is it located under the drivers seat? What should I do about the rubber grommet located under the car where the wires appear to pass through?
As part of my ongoing P1393 troubleshooting, I’ve found that I can’t get the main engine wire harness separated. The big connector by the driver’s side valve cover.
I’ve cranked and cranked in the correct direction, but the plug never separates. I tried a cordless impact wrench and it still doesn’t move. (Edit -- the bolt moves very freely, but it doesn't push out one side (e.g. like removing the PCM) I can't figure out how to separate the two sides.)
Any tips on how to get it separated? Can I cut off the bolt head to get it separated?
I have a 2007 F-350 SRW. I bought some mirrors of craigslist from two different sellers. They are from 2008 or later, they didn't know the exact year. I have looked in the tech folder and searched and searched. could not find wires that are the same color as mine. Yes, mirrors are OEM. I need to know what color goes to what color.
Do they match color to color? question mark represents color that doesn't line up
drivers side door colors=============== new drivers side mirror colors
green------------------------------------------------- green
black--------------------------------------------------black
green/white-------------------------------------------black/white?
blue----------------------------------------------------blue
yellow--------------------------------------------------yellow
red------------------------------------------------------red
brown---------------------------------------------------brown
passenger door colors=================new passenger mirror colors
green/purple------------------------------------------white?
black---------------------------------------------------black
white/blue---------------------------------------------black/white?
yellow--------------------------------------------------yellow
green---------------------------------------------------green
brown---------------------------------------------------brown
brown/purple-------------------------------------------purple?
Side note these are in no particular order as far as pin location.
Any limited number of lights the factory trailer harness on the truck can tolerate? I'm looking to add some extra running lights on my trailer, also want to put a couple of lights on each running board on the truck, they will be tied in with the trailer harness since it is not monitored by the BCM. I did a search on this a few different ways and couldn't find anything.
View 8 RepliesMy fathers truck had the tail lights go out the other night so we checked the fuse and the bulbs both good. Took it to ford and they found that a wire harness in the front left wheel well had rubbed through and needed replacement. I went and checked mine and yup it was rubbing through the wire just not all the way yet. Might want to take a look. It is at the top of the well near the coil spring. I will get the camera out tomorrow in the daylight and take a picture of the location.
View 13 RepliesTwo of my plugs locking clips broke today on the wire harness side where the coil over plugs into the harness today while changing spark plugs. They will plug back up, but they won't lock together like they are suppose to. How critical is this? It is my wife's car will she break down? I drove the car maybe twelve miles, and everything seemed fine.
View 8 RepliesI own a 2002 GTI and my sunroof was damaged beyond repair.
A local headliner shop had a used 2004 Jetta sunroof which he sold to me. The shop owner said everything was in working order with the sunroof except the wire harness that runs to the sunroof was missing the plug since it was cut. He recommended just taking the plug from my GTI sunroof motor and soldering it onto the Jetta motor since it may throw off the "timing" of the sunroof motor and would need to be recalibrated if removed. Keep in mind he is an authorized Webasco dealer so I took him at his word.
I cut my plug off of my GTI sunroof motor harness and began to solder it onto the Jetta sunroof.
I quickly noticed the Jetta sunroof motor had one extra wire (Brown). I didn't think it would be a big deal since my GTI doesn't have 6 wires and only requires 5 so I mounted the new sunroof with the Jetta motor onto the car.
The sunroof retracted back into the "fully open" position and would close but would not go into the "vent" position. Each time I would turn the dial to the "vent" position, the sunroof would slide back into the "fully open" position.
I thought this was a bit strange and now I am beginning to wonder if I need to swap the GTI sunroof motor on my car due to it not have the extra wire or is the Jetta sunroof motor going to work fine but another issue is causing this to happen?
Below are the differences in the two sunroof motors. Both are Bosch products.
Jetta Sunroof Motor - Part Number : GDO 849 696 564
This part has 6 wires that connect to it.
White, Green, Gray, Blue, Purple, and Brown
Where as the GTI has only 5 wires on it.
GTI Sunroof Motor - Part Number : GDO 849 696 566
White, Green, Gray, Blue, and Purple
The difference between the two is the additional BROWN found in the Jetta sunroof motor.
I have a 2006 F250 and my 7pin and 4 pin connectors are just hanging loose. I'm not sure what happened to the factory bracket. What is the part number for this bracket? Also, where does it mount to? I looked under the truck and couldnt tell where the factory one mounts.
View 4 RepliesI own a 1998 Mitsubishi Mirage with about 190,000 miles on it. The engine light has started coming on and I get three codes:
P0170 Fuel Trim Bank 1P0136 Oxygen Sensor Bank 1 Sensor 2P0301 Cylinder 1 misfire
Read more: [URL] ....
At least this is how I did it after a P0133 code.
The back ground on my truck (see sig) is that I am the second owner (my former neighbor was the first) and it has 293K miles on it at the time of this post. The truck is bone stock FWIW.
I searched the internet and couldn't find a good step by step replacement write up. The front oxygen sensor on the passenger side is hard to get to so here is what I did:
Jacked the truck up and placed jack stands under it. Removed the front passenger tire and the plastic wheel well liner.
Tools needed for this part are a 7/32 socket and a trim tool remover (for the plastic push in fittings).
There are 5 screws and 3 or 4 plastic push retainers (don't know actual term) to remove.
Because of the location of the sensor I had to remove the transmission dipstick tube. *If you do this have a pan or bucket under this area as you are going to lose fluid* the dipstick tube is held place by an 8mm bolt about the middle of the exhaust manifold. Unscrew it and with a little pressure the tube will pop up and out, and so will some fluid.
Wheel well liner out and dipstick tube pulled out of the way.
The connector where you will disconnect the old 02 sensor is tucked up behind the engine block and is kind of hard to get to. A little time and patience and you can get it separated.
From underneath the truck I cut the end off of the old 02 sensor (because the closed end of the wrench wouldn't fit over it) and used a 7/8 box wrench to unloosen the sensor a little at a time until I could get it out with my fingers.
I put the new 02 sensor in finger tight and then tightened it down with small turns of the 7/8 wrench until tight
The cord on the new sensor is longer than the factory one so once reconnected I used zip ties to keep the slack up and away from the hot parts.
New 02 sensor installed and dip stick tube back in place. Note the attachment approx 1/2 down the dipstick tube. It is the 8mm bolt I previously mentioned.
Wheel well back in place. Truck lowered back to the ground.
Long time follower, first time user. 99 F250 V10 180,000 miles: About a month ago I replaced both upstream oxygen sensors. I know have the following codes:
0135 and 0155 for Upstream Heated Oxygen Sensor Heater HTR 21 and 11
Circuit Malfunction Bank 1 and 2
1409 for Exhaust Gas Recirculation Vacuum Regulator Solenoid Circuit
I checked fuses and PCM relay and all are good. I have 12 volts to both oxygen sensors and no noticeable wire burns. One of the possible causes given on code printout for 0135/0155 is to check for a disconnected hose to the EGR. All hoses are good. One of the possible reported fixes for EGR code 1409 is to repair oxygen sensor wiring. So my question is: Are these codes related. If I replace the EGR vacuum regulator solenoid, will this clear my codes from the oxygen sensors?
I need to replace the first oxygen sensor, which is located on exhaust manifold behind the engine. But how to reach it? I've tried both from below and from above with the engine rotated as much forward as was possible but no luck. The only way I see possible to make enough space is to remove the ignition coil, but I don't want to take that step without knowing it is right thing to do.
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