Ford - Explorer :: 2001 - Noise Under The Dash Then Window Goes Down Half When Put All The Way Up
May 24, 2013
I have a 2001 explorer sport 2wd. My problems are that when I put the driver or passenger window all the up it makes a noise under the dash then i let go of the button then the driver window goes down halfway. when i drive at night i can see a dim light behind the turn signals blinking even if I don't have the lights on. also when i have the lights on i cant put the window up if its down, i have to turn off the lights to put the windows up.
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I have a 2001 Ford Explorer Sport, and to remove the rear passenger window. The car is a two door, and the passenger windows are the smaller "flap" out style. I was able to remove the two torx screws on the hinge itself, but the glass portion is held in some sort of bracket, and I'm having trouble removing that.
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My son has a 2001 explorer sport that he keeps at college. The vehicle sits alot more than it runs these days. Recently it some times does not want to start, no click when you turn the key. He got it home today, and after I changed oil, it would not start. I have no ground to the starter relay in the power distribution box.
I have no electrical schematics, where the ground for the starter relay comes from ? If I remove the relay and run jumper wires from the box to the relay, i can make the vehicle crank when i apply another ground source to the relay....but it just cranks, will not start.
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2005 Sport Trac 4x4... So, my fiance purchased this new off the floor before i met her (or else she wouldn't have bought it). Had a motor issue which required a new motor after 90k miles.. Anyways, while driving on a normal road, i dropped the rear window and hear this whining noise. Checked the transmission fluid and it was a little low, nothing major. Topped it off with Mercon V... No effect. Where do i look next. It does not have a tow package. Do i check the transfer case, or rear differential?.I am thinking differential because the transfer case is more upfront to where the noise is. you cant hear it with front windows down. Only the rear sliding window or rear passenger's windows.
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Can the power window regulator motor on a 96 Explorer be repaired? I can hear the motor make a thump noise but it is bound. I have seen videos on earlier model Fords where the motor can be taken apart and the plastic spheres can be replaced but I didn't know if that can be done on a 96 model.
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When you turn the interior ac temperature from cool to warm there is a loud knocking noise coming from under the dash. I am new to working on explorers but it seem like its coming from the black box nearest the firewall above the transmission tunnel. When you turn it to cold the noise almost completely goes away. The noise gets even louder when you mess with the selector for "max ac" "head and feet" "feet" etc.
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I recently acquired a 1983 F-250 regular cab with one previous owner and a known issue...the engine heaving for gas once it dropped to the half-tank mark.
Both fuel pump and fuel filter had been recently changed, among other small maintenance adjustments including new sparks and wires. In driving it down from the mountains following the vehicle transfer, the engine completely died at half tank. I then poured 2 spare gallons into the tank and it started up and finished the journey home. Prior to arriving home, I filled the tank completely and it only took 6 more gallons (19gal tank). So this doesn't seem to be an issue of a fuel gauge malfunction.
I'm perplexed. How is it that it can run fine at full tank, but upon reaching half it begins to sporadically shudder, as if not getting enough gas? If I continue to run the truck beyond half, it will stall or not start at all. Put a couple more gallons in, and it starts right up. When it's on half and won't start, it still fires with starting fluid. I suspect there's an air leak in some component in the tank.
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My drivers side window slows or gets stuck half way up. If I grab the window and pull up as the motor is running it will make it past. Sometimes it slows then makes it past on its own. Does that sound like a bad regulator or a weak motor?
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How to reset the window limit on a mk7 golf? I installed power folding mirrors with new modules the passenger side window goes up and down fine but the driver side will only go up half way then does back down like its hitting something.
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My driver's side window will only go down half way. The problem began when a small accident damaged my driver's side door check (the small bar that keeps the door from swinging open too wide). The check was bent, and the window stopped going all the way down. When I removed the check, the window worked fine. Now I've replaced the check. The door works fine, but the window problem has returned.
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When pulling down my drivers window and then pulling it up it gets stuck half way up. I have to push the window hard toward the outside while pressing the button to get it back up. If I am pulling down the window and stop before this point, I have no problem pulling it up again.
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2001 Ranger 4 liter 4 door My driver side window goes up and the electric motor does not stop running when the window reaches its normal upper position. Instead it goes bang-bang-bang until I take my finger off of the switch. I'm guessing there is a limit switch that should disconnect the motor but has failed. The bang-bang (again I'm guessing) probably is some sort of a spring loaded torque limiter to protect the motor. Other than that, the window goes up & down as it normally should. I have no problem digging into the door, except with the window, door lock and outside mirror switches, I don't have a clue regarding how to get the inside door panel off. I know to disconnect the battery 1st.
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I have a 2003 Montana (same as Venture). The driver side window will get stuck half way down and the motor will grind. You can then run it back up, but when closed it will grind again.
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Had window on drivers side all the way down. Went to push button to raise. Window gets gets half way up and I hear a loud snap! I continue to push button and raised window all the way up. Now I hear wind and whistle sound. Does not seem to be as tight? Afraid to lower window as it may not raise again... Does this sound like the typical window regulator failure? My warranty coverage "excludes " window regulators, go figure. Their brochure says window motors and regulators covered. The actual signed contract excludes regulators? 2004 V8......
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Pulled up to subway today and hit the switch to put the window down for my order. paid the lady got my order hit the switch but the window went half way up and stopped! drove off and tried to make it go down or up, nothing! tried again in a couple of minutes then it went up. I haven't done anything since. Am I looking at a huge repair? Never had a problem before.
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I recently bought a 2005 Elantra. At about 45 mph I start noticing air noise from the Driver side window. It peaks at about 70 mph. Not super loud but sounds almost like the window is very slightly cracked open. There is no air intrusion or water during rains.
I had the dealer check it and they test drove and said that it was normal and probably caused by the mirrors.
I have had mirrors like this before on other cars and never had air noise.
My question to you all is; Is this normal or should I pursue it further.
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My son has an '03 Explorer. The passenger side window will not go down. We took the panel off the door and used a volt meter to check to see if voltage was coming from the switch to the motor. Both the up and down side of the motor pigtail was getting fire from both the driver side switch and the passenger side switch. We bought a used window assembly (cables, motor, etc) and tried the switches. The switch worked until the window was fully extended to the up/closed position, then would not go down...just like the one in the door. Took the motor off the window assembly (the original one still in the door) and tried the switch and it works fine...both up and down. There seems to be a limit switch or something that knows when something has over extended.
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2 wheel drive. No problems shifting until a few weeks ago when I put a chip in the truck. Then became a funny sort of half shift in between 1st and 2nd. Kind of a half shift and then a final hard shift into the next gear.
I have only driven the truck with the chip setting in economy by Gearhead which is 40hp. Well, all day driving in an economy but I have played hard with all the settings, smoking my tires and what not but never actually driven it into anything other than the economy.
Tonight it's done. Starting in the normal drive from a red light it was in between that funny shift and then it just fell back all the way with a hard thunk followed by it wouldn't shift at all out of first gear. Took it out of tunes, same difference. Found out when I take off in drive it won't shift on its own out of first but when I put it in second from the tree it shifts into second as normal, coming from the drive. Then when I start getting up into the rpm range that she normally should shift past second I put her back in drive and she shifts into third (and fourth?) normally. If I remove the overdrive it still immediately downshifts. When I turn it back on it shifts back up normally.
But again, starting from drive I have to put it into second and then into drive for it to shift. I still have reverse and it still kicks directly into first from the park and takes off, just doesn't shift from first to second on it's own.
I checked the tranny fluid, it's seemingly fine. Great red color and full. Does not smell burnt at all. No flashing light or anything anywhere either. No blinking on the overdrive light on the stick or no warning lights anywhere else.
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2010 GTI. Just got back from a business trip, hasn't been started for a week. Turn key, just clicks at me. Dash flashes and threw up half a dozen error messages from ESP to ABS to AFS/headlight. Battery seems fine. I, unfortunately, do not have a windows laptop handy currently so cannot hook up vag-com. Does this sound like a starter? ECU? I do have APR stage I and I was NOT able to access via the cruise control set function which has me worried that somehow it has engaged lock out mode? At this point, I appear to be headed for flatbed, dealer and major wallet damage.
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I recently installed a new car stereo in my 05 CRV to replace the factory unit which had a broken CD player. Everything appeared to go fine, but I noticed at night that when the Head Light switch was turned on, only the top half of the dash lights would turn on, the lights for the AC/Heater failed to light, and the PRNDD1D2 lights which work fine in the day (sans the drive light not working, but that's been the case for a year now) would turn off. I've checked the fuses and found no blown ones, although the fact that the top half of the dash lights still turn on made a blown fuse seem less likely.
The lights that are left on will still dim/brighten when the dimmer knob is turned, and I noticed that if I pull the small lights fuse the dash lights don't work, but the PRNDD1D2 lights remain lit even with the headlights on. I've tried removing and re installing the factory stereo to see if there was a short in the new wiring harness, but that changed nothing. As is the car is still drivable, as the top half of the dash lights is enough to make all the gauges readable, but it's still a bit annoying. Any clues as to what I've done, and is there a reasonably cheap fix to the problem?
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I recently bought a wrecked '97 Ford Explorer Sport with 51,000 miles to use as a parts car for my '97 Ford Explorer with 300,000 miles. The two front power windows in my Explorer just go "click, click, click, click..." when I try to use them, and they won't go up or down without a manual assist. The power windows in the Sport worked fine. I first replaced the motor... no improvement. Th
en I replaced the linkage with the flywheel, thinking it might be worn. No good. Then, after watching a video on youtube showing how to replace the power windows, I noticed that a new assembly comes with new tracks, so I replaced the tracks also. No go. I took the old motor and linkage and hooked it up to a 9 volt battery. It works just fine. I greased the tracks but that didn't work. I can't see anything that could be jamming the works. Fixing my windows is one of the main reasons I bought the Sport.
4.0 liter V-6 with only 51,000 miles?
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