2001 Sport trac, we are throwing a large leak evap code. The check fuel cap light came on and went out after replacing the cap, but we are still getting the code. Is there a known problem area to look at or is it a job for the smoke machine?
View 2 RepliesGot 2006 Explorer back fron trans rebuild and probably unrelated but started getting P1405 (Large vacuum leak) and alternating "replace gas cap" errors. When I installed a new gas cap, error went from large vacuum leak -which I checked for on engine and found none using smoke test- to loose gas cap. So next, I changed the emission system valve which is right up front on rt. side of engine looking into engine bay. Now, error has returned to large vacuum leak. So new gas cap and valve. Error does not come back immediately after clearing. Takes about a week and then either get SES light and large vacuum leak error or just picture of gas cap on dash error. Note that when I remove gas cap, I no longer hear the "whooosh" of releasing a vacuum. Assume now it is in back by spare tire where I need to be looking. I note on emission valve that there is a schrader valve for testing vacuum....
View 6 RepliesI drive a 2001 Ford Focus ZTS with ~133000. I just recently filled up my coolant reservoir with 50/50 coolant. 2 days later I needed to fill it again. I went through an entire jug of coolant in 4 days. It seems to be leaking from the top of the engine and the engine runs slightly rough and has a hard time starting some days (more often recently). How bad is it doc?
View 5 RepliesI have an 06 sonata 2.4l--last week the CEL came on so I took it to my mechanic and he said it was p0455 which is a large vapor leak in fuel assembly. We tried tightening the gas cap and resetting the code with a scanner but it came back on a day or two later. I have never overfilled my tank and i do not smell gas anywhere. the only real symptom (maybe non related)is my speedometer , it works but it is just a little slow to react when increasing or decreasing speed.---my gas mileage seems to be normal.We got under the car and looked around and couldn't notice any obvious tears in any lines -- should i try buying a new gas cap?--I was thinking it may be speed sensor but my mechanic said if it was the speed sensor , my tranny should be shifting funny , my trans shifts fine. I am at a loss and don't want to have to go to dealer with this.
View 12 RepliesI just purchased a 2006 Santa Fe Limited with the 3.5l for a great deal. It has a huge coolant leak though that needs fixed. It is coming from the top of the motor on the left side by the timing belt. It is really a small flood, when you fill the coolant and turn on the motor it runs across the top of the motor toward the drivers side. There isn't oil in the coolant and it doesn't smoke. I had it dropped off at my mechanic though. Does the motor really need pulled in these to do the head? I heard that there is a overflow channel from the water pump that comes out right about there as well. Could that maybe be it? Any other options if it is the head gasket to reduce the cost any?
View 17 RepliesCheck light came on and I had the code read at AutoZone. There were 3 codes but I'm pretty sure 2 are old (the check light previously came on a couple of months ago and I had it checked, then went off on its own). My car seems to be driving fine.
The new one is P0455. Large EVAP leak. I'm hoping it is just my gas cap.
The other 2 (older) codes are P0456 (small leak) and P0113 (IAT error).
I own an '01 Honda Accord LX with the ULEV engine and 178k on it. My CEL light came on about 6 months ago. Ran the scanner and it showed a P1457 (EVAP Leak). Waited until now when my inspection was due and expected it to be caused by the EVAP shut valve as I read that's often the cause of the problem with this code. Mechanic said that it can't pass inspection because of the OBD fail but that the diagnostic scanner showed everything functioning properly, including my assumption about the faulty shut valve.
He reset the code and said to drive it the 50 miles for the system to ready itself and bring it back in. As I've reset the code several times over the 6 months to see if it would self correct, I'm pretty confident it will come back on. My questions are, is it possible I've done damage to the onboard computer by not addressing the underlying problem 6 months ago? Are there emissions problems that are not checked by the diagnostic tool that the mechanic should be looking for?
Problem started when the fuel supply was low, she had to floorboard it to get on the interstate, keep getting cel, misfire #4.....I replaced fuel filter, had a little water causing the plug to arc....had a mechanic replace the plug.....at startup cold, cel is off and it doesn't miss, after it warms up, light comes back on and starts to miss. I have ran every type of fuel cleaner in it, even used a three step cleaner for throttle body, vacuum system, and tank. I just poured sea foam into the tank and trying that, I noticed a gurgling noise when I removed the gas cap. I'm thinking #4 injector is stopped up.. I recently replaced all the coil boots.....kept getting condensation in the boot (she has been washing the underside at the car wash).....the truck has the 4.6 and has 85,000 miles, it is an 07 sport trac.....
View 2 RepliesDid the cam sync replacement on my 96 explorer awd 5.0 l had the tool dropped the sync got it back to where the last one was. Followed the procedure pretty close I did forget to remove the battery cable. So here is the issue I now have 0 fuel to the rail. is there something I might have messed up or left unplugged that would cause this. Did my fuel pump poop out the same time my sync did. I am stumped as even where to start .
View 1 Replies1995 Ford Explorer, 4 ltr. engine, pushrod. Will not start. Replaced fuel pump, fuel filter, every relay, pressure regulator, and the crank position sensor. I realize there's a whole bunch more parts under the hood, but I am ready to give up. Before the fuel pump would not run. Reason for replacing the parts. Now it won't stop running and you can feel the fuel by-passing at the pressure regulator. When checking the pressure at the rail I get zero !! I used a tire pressure tester for this. And, like I said no pressure. This vehicle has around 170,000 miles on it.
View 8 RepliesA little embarrassed about a problem I have had getting the Emissions computer to reset for emissions testing in Maryland. I tried everything the testing station suggested, but could not get the codes to reset, for readiness for emissions testing. I surrendered after 5 or 6 trips to the testing station, and took it to my very trusted mechanic, thinking I had a bad ECU, and he would need to replace it. I would have done it myself, but figured I would not be able to re-program it myself, so would rely on my mechanic.
Got the car back, fixed for less than $50 (they did other maintenance work as well). Guess what it was? It was a blown fuse! This is the second time this 2000 Explorer XLT, 5.0 has me stumped and it was just a fuse - first time was tow-hitch lighting. So now, no matter what, I will check all the fuses first! Regardless of the problem - ok, maybe only a last resort when I have a flat tire
2000 Ford Explorer XLT, 5.0L ......
I've got a 2001 Explorer 4.0L with around 160,000 miles on it. Just noticed this morning it has developed a coolant leak. It's dripping off the rear of the oil pan and appears to be coming from the passenger side somewhere above the oil filter. Without tearing a bunch of stuff apart, I can't really see for sure where its coming from. Are there any common issues with this? I'm hoping its not a head gasket...
View 7 RepliesHere are the codes I'm getting:
P0455 - large evap leak
P1451 - main control (evap canister)
P0306 - cylinder 6 misfire
P0174 - bank 2 lean
are these all related? Or two separate issues. I have replaced all the evap lines with new lines. I have a new egr valve, and exhaust manifolds, and what should I look at 1st
I own a 98 f-150 5.4 with 70,000 miles. I get a check engine light (code p0455-large leak detected in evaporative emission control system).
Replaced the gas cap with an after market 'stant' ( I believe was the manufacturer) brand. The check engine light went away for 4 days then came on again.
No obvious vacuum line leaks.... Puzzled.
I've had a large leak from somewhere in my power steering/brake boost system (the whole reservoir gone in under a week) and I want to finally get to the bottom of it. Instead of paying a mechanic labor, I figured I'll look at it myself. So I got under it and I think that the leak is coming from the power steering gearbox, or a line that goes to it, but how to figure out which. How to diagnose this HydroBoost leak on my 6.4L? Here are some pictures ....
View 2 RepliesReplaced fuel filter. Got all 4 washers plus cap from old filter. Engine won't start. Saw there is a fifth rubber washer that nobody mentions anywhere and transferred that to the new pump. still won't run.
When I turn the key to On, I can hear the pump turn on for 2 secs and stop. if I do this 5-6 times and then try to start, engine will start and then die immediately. seems the pump is not pumping when the engine tries to run. it pumps only for two secs when the key goes from Off to On position.
There are two lines going to the pump. which one feeds the engine. if I disconnect that line, should I see fuel coming out when I turn the key and try to start the engine?? or is there a better place to disconnect closer to the engine??
Is it possible to take an 'throttle emissions control solenoid" off a 2150 Carburetor and swap it with a different solenoid, say something like an idle swap?? I can't find a new throttle emissions control solenoid, but I see plenty of idle stops.
View 3 RepliesI have some codes on my ranger 2000 here goes
P0141: o2 sensor heater circuit malfonction (bank 2 sensor 2 )
P0455: evaporative emission control system detected (large leak)
Now I will need to get that fixed cause I don't know where to look and what to look for ... For the leak I know there is a big crack on the plastic where the gas lid is could that be it ?
I just posted last week that my check engine light was on and the dealer wanted to replace fuel injectors. But after the fuel throttle was cleaned and oxygen sensor was replaced the check engine light went off. However, yesterday the check engine light came back on. I am talking it back to the dealer, in a couple of days. Where can I go to get to get the error codes read so I have them before I go back to the dealer? Around 128,000 runs fine, around 40 miles per gallon. Last time I had the oil change dealer nothing came up on the 30 point inspection.
View 7 RepliesI have a large puddle of water under the spare tire. This happened a couple of months ago and I took the car to the dealership. They said it was a seam above the rear tail light that wasn't properly sealed. They re-sealed. I checked it every couple of weeks and no water but heavy rain over the past few days (car sitting) I decided to check again and there is more water than previously noticed. It looks like it's dripping down the side of the spare-wheel area.
First noticed at 1300KM now again @ 17000 KM Elantra 2013 GT GLS....
I noticed there was a relatively large oil leak coming from underneath the rear passenger door immediately after I started my wife's 2000 Passat (GLX -- V6). The car wasn't driven for about 2 days and immediately after I started her up, I noticed the oil leak coming out right in front of the rear passenger tire.
What kind of oil leak could this be? I've never seen a car leak oil from underneath the rear passenger door? I recently had the oil gasket replaced. After I pulled out, I noticed that the oil was kinda black and had an odor of gas to it. What this could be?