Ford - Explorer :: 2001 - Gear Indicator Selector Moving Freely Between All The Gears
Jul 24, 2012
I have a 2001 Sport Trac. I was hooking up my boat, and went to put it into "R" and heard something that sounded like plastic break. Then, the gear selector seemed to move freely between all the gears. I know it is a pretty vague question, but what part do I ask for to repair it. Or more importantly, HOW do I repair it?
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I have a 2008 F-150. When moving gear selector from park to either reverse or drive, trans has a delay engaging. After engagement, it runs fine, shifts ok, downshifts ok....
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This past Sat, when I started the car in the morning, noticed that the Gear selector indicator in the MFD is stuck. The display background is reversed and moving gears does not change the display, in the regular or sports mode. When I go from P to R (or D), I occasionally have a jerk. I drove the car car a bit since and no other apparent issues. It is a Triptronic.
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I have a 2001 Ford Excursion with the 5.4 and auto trans. I don't know for sure what specific tranny is in it but I do know what I want to do. I really like the pistol grip style shifters that a 2004 ish F-150 has and I wanted to make that conversion in my Excursion. Is it possible? Are the trannys the same to where I can switch out the gear selectors? And also how would I even do it?
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The switch for turning overdrive off that's located on the auto trans shifter stopped working. I've taken off the column cover to see if the wires have been severed from the tilt wheel, but nothing wrong there. I also checked the fuses, and all is well. Is it possible that the switch is bad at the end of the shifter, or somewhere farther down the column?
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I have a 2004 Explorer 4.0L with 190,000 miles. My wife was driving it and the vehicle stopped moving. Sounds like the torque converter whining and will not drive in any gear or 4wd.
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Isn't the park gear selector indicators suppose to me illuminated when you turn on the lights, mine aren't. Why?? stick shift between seats on floor.
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When I went to put my car into gear today (automatic gear box, 2004) the gear shifter was very hard to move, as if whatever automated its ease is no longer functioning. And i'm pretty sure the steering and brakes are not performing with their power aided functions either. Is this a set of servos all on one line somewhere? Fried? Just a fuse?
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My friend has a 2005 Tdi touareg (WVGZZZ7LZ5D053023). The low range indicator in the instrument cluster keeps on popping, the low range and high range indicator in the center console near the gear shift lever keeps on blinking at the same time. Driving the touareg was really slow, and the low and high range still keeps on blinking. There is no MIL appearing on the instrument cluster but scanning with VAG COM reveals this fault code below. I tried erasing the fault code but it keeps on coming back after a few seconds.
VCDS Version: Release 805.1
Data version: 20081223
Thursday,15,January,2009,14:30:13:39739
Chassis Type: 7L - VW Touareg
Scan: 01 02 03 05 06 08 09 11 13 15 16 17 18 19 1C 22 29 32 34 36
37 39 3C 46 47 55 56 57 64 65 68 69 6C 6D 6E 75 76 77
VIN: WVGZZZ7LZ5D053023 Mileage: 38400km/23860miles
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 22: AWD Labels: None
Part No: 0AD 927 755 AJ
Component: TRANSFERCASE 0100
Shop #: WSC 00000 000 00000
1 Fault Found:
00532 - Supply Voltage B+
002 - Lower Limit Exceeded - Intermittent
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After car warms and while driving trans moves to 3rd gear and stays ??
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Was going to leave the other morning and put it into reverse and nothing happened. Tried every other gear and works fine. Reverse is the only thing giving me problems right now. Tried doing some research on my own, because I can't afford a tranny rebuild. I was hoping it was either the solenoid or low/reverse band. I don't know about the band, because it works fine in low2 and low1....
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Fix a Loose Column Shifter on Ford Vehicles - YouTube
The first pic shows the torx screws that come loose, allowing the handle to get sloppy.
The second pic shows the black plastic adjuster wheel that centers the gear shift selector needle on the proper designated gear displayed in the indicator window.
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Parked truck, went to leave and truck starts and runs fine, says brake problem on message, wont let me move gear selector out of park, is there a way to do this manually and get it to neutral so it can be towed??
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My buddy has a 97 Ranger 4X4 Automatic. The gear selector has become out of adjustment. To get the truck started you have to pull up on it (the gear selector) and it is getting worse by the drive. I think it is going to leave him stranded in the near future if it is not bought back in to adjustment.
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2001 Accord, 6cyl. 3.0, automatic transmission. The last few weeks its been shifting a little rougher, but nothing thatd alarm me. Then last night, the check engine light popped on and the little green light around the D4 on the dash began blinking. I turned it off for a minute, restarted it and blinking light was gone but not check engine. Sat there and shifted through all the gears and the only thing I don't like is when i go from D3 to 2 and back. It shifts real hard there. Not as hard shifting back from 2 to D3 though. All other gears shift fine.
Also, I checked the fluid on the dipstick and it was right under the lower dot. Its my wifes old car and she "doesn't remember" if shes ever had the tranny flushed and a buddy said if it hasn't been flushed regularly by this point(125K miles), not a good idea to flush, just drain and refill. (Green blinking light around gear indicator) and what was the fix? Is it difficult to drain/refill the tranny and can I refill this model through the dipstick or do I have to get underneath? Do I REALLY have to use Honda ATF only or can I use whatever??
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I took my A/C tensioner pulley (the pulley that is on the upper left of my crankshaft/harmonic balancer) off and when I took it off, the plates and washer fell off and I wasn't 100% positive how they went back on. I mean I thought I was 100% positive until I tried putting it back on. There are two plates, one on the front of pulley and one on the back. I'm guessing the smaller 1 has to be on the front because it has marks from the nut that goes on the front. The other one in my mind obviously has to be the back 1. The thick washer "seems" to go behind the back plate. It has stain marks on it that line up with the mounted bracket behind it, that is why I say seems. The actual bolt goes in from behind the bracket. The problem is when putting the pulley back on, I tighten the nut (I can't find the torque specs anywhere) in the front and the pulley won't spin freely at all. When I loosen the nut to the point where the pulley can slide side to side it will spin no problem. Something just ain't right but what it is. Are there more parts to this thing that might have rolled off into the abyss? Did I put the parts on wrong?
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I have a 1997 F-150, 2 wheel drive, 4.6L truck. Recently the transmission got to where it didn't shift properly. Then it got to where, after driving it about 10 to 15 miles the transmission would drop out of gear with the transmission selector in drive.
I have replaced the transmission sensor, the rear end sensor and it still does the same thing. Drive about 10 to 15 miles and, with the transmission selector in drive the truck will not pull. The motor can be rev'ed but the truck won't move just like it was in neutral.
What is wrong. The transmission shifts fine, the truck runs fine, but after 10 to 15 miles the transmission quits working.
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I am just about committed to purchasing a 1997 Ford E350 extended cargo van with the 5.4. The transmission shifts through all the gears nice and firm (reverse also works). The only issue with the van is the column selector lever is very hard to move between the entire range of PRND21. It also does not "click" into the selected positions, you have to just line up the pointer to the desired gear selection.
Is this a complete deal breaker (internal transmission issue/replacement necessary) or, is it something relatively simple (such as a worn selector cable). The owner did admit the van has been sitting for sometime. It has 134,000 miles on it.
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The key in my 2003 Hyundai Santa Fe is rotating freely without starting the car. The Accessories are always on and I had to disconnect the battery to prevent drainage. I removed the lock cylinder and found a small camshaft like part that seems to be loose and broken, one piece of it seems to be broken in the switch. Is there anywhere I can get this camshaft like part? I searched but can only find either the lock cylinder or the switch. See the attached pic for the part I am talking about.
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My 2004 Explorer XLT 4.6L V8 AT is very difficult to shift out of park. Sometimes I have to push very hard on the brake in order to get the transmission selector out of park. Other times it is no problem.
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I have a 2008 Ford Escape 2.3L V6. About 67K miles on it.
Recently there's been some transmission problems. When the selector is in Drive, it will take abnormally long to shift into the next gear at normal speeds, and will redline if i hit it hard, but if i let off the gas, it will shift. Never hard.
If I put the selector in 2, it will do the same thing, eventually shifting into that second gear.
Gear selector on one, well, it obviously stays in 1st.
Reverse is fine. All shifts are smooth just take forever, and I get the wrench in the dash (means drivetrain/throttle fault as per manual) only after driving a while. The tranny fluid is still very clean, and this as been going on for 2 months.
Ive taken it to about 6 different places. Half say new tranny off the bat. Other half says clean fluid for that long after the problem started means its def. an electrical problem, and that makes the most sense to me. What it could be?
I'm thinking:
-Tranny Range Positioning Sensor
-Input/Output speed sensor
-TCM reprogramming/replace
- I'll even go with reflashing the PCM.
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