Ford - Explorer :: 2001 - Engine Shut Off Without Warning / No Spark?
Jul 23, 2013
I have a 2001 Sport Trac with the 4.0L engine and it's not producing a spark. The problem started when my dad was driving down the road and be claims it just shut off without warning, no sputtering, nothing. He had taken it to a shop and they had just come right out and said the engine went. My bf looked at it and he says there are no signs whatsoever of the engine going.
No oil in the coolant or coolant in the oil, we have replaced the ECM, coil pack, crank sensor, spark plugs, and checked the fuel. The theft light flashes every few seconds, not rapidly, so we ruled that out. The truck turns but doesn't start, when the key is turned to the "run" position, you can hear everything turn on, it just doesn't start. When it cranks, it isn't fast or slow, it's the normal speed from what I can remember so I'm not sure if it could be the timing chain or not. Where we can go from there?
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4.6 liter V8 limited.
Problem 1 : Driving into a small town I slowed to 35 mph and set cruise control to hold speed. Suddenly a loud warning tone/ beep sounded and the engine shut off. I coasted into a parking lot and restarted and drove the rest of the way home without incident. (another 1-1/2 hour drive). Could I have had an auto shut down because of a low fluid sensor or something similar?
My cold antifreeze was below the cold fill range but still was visible in the container. The temperatures were not high and the heater still worked. All other levels were normal.
Problem 2 : It also have an irritating buzz in the dash some where. Sounds almost like you would imagine a speedometer cable could sound, except no cable. Could it be the speedometer? It is intermittent and seems related to either speed or RPM.
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I have a 2003 Elantra 2.0 with no spark, no codes... anymore. The car was driven about 6 miles, shut off, went back out to start it, it ran for 10 seconds then shut down. Now it will not restart.
What I did: As per some of the advice of others I replaced the crank sensor, cam sensor, ignition coil, check compression, pulled codes from the ecu with one being a crank sensor. I have power at the fuel pump during crank, i can smell gas during crank, plugs are dry just no spark. Timing belt and timing are fine, engine sounds as it should during crank but no spark. There is power at the coils, crank and cam sensors. MIL is on when key is turned and goes off during crank.
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I just changed my spark plugs the other day and since then my engine is hard idling and skips and jumps while I'm driving it. I'm being told I either need to change the spark plug wires or the coil packs. So my question is which do I need to change? And is there anyway to test which one I need to replace?
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Have a 97 explorer 4wd xlt push rod. The key will not turn the engine off( when the unit is hot) with head lights on, I turn key off engine runs, i reach over and turn the headlights off engine will shut off. Start back with the headlights off the engine will shut right off, but if I turn the headlights on on while it is running and leave them on it will not shut off, unless i turn headlights off.cold start does fine.. I can turn ign key to the off position radio stops playing, so I know it is not the the switch or rod. I was going down the highway and lost dash lights and taillights the other day I moved the switch a little and they came back on the ign switch worked perfect that day.
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2009 Ford Explorer - 6cyl -4L - 36K miles. This morning driving it, I came to a stop sign and as I was braking, the idle starting going up (and up and up) to the point where I had to shut off the engine. When I restarted it, everything was fine and of course, I can't reproduce this. I have the shop manual and couldn't find an IAC valve on this vehicle which I'm assuming it doesn't have. I'm sure I didn't accidentally hit the gas (as opposed to the brake which I know I was pressing down on when it was happening). Years ago I had a different Ford which had the exact same symptom and replacing the IAC solve the problem.
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The other day I went to turn off my vehicle and it continued running even when key is in off position. I took the key out and it still continued running. I had to disconnect the battery and turn key in on position for vehicle to stall. I do not want to buy any unnecessary parts nor do I want to take apart any unnecessary.
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I think it's possessed! My sisters vehicle, a 2002 Explorer with a 4.0 V-6, automatic, 2 wheel drive will just shut off. At first it acted like it would vapor lock. But it would start right away. then the a while later, (several months), it got where it would drop rpms and the engine shudders, sometimes not dying.
When this first started, the throttle body was cleaned, a new air filter installed, fuel pressure checked. Everything checked out and for a few days it ran fine. Then it started all over again. There has never been a code thrown. All of this goes on only when the ambient temp is above 70 deg.'s. below 70 deg.'s it runs perfect.
Last week it went to the mechanic again and a new crank speed sensor, fuel pump, and diagnostic done. He could not find anything wrong any where. Took it for a test drive and it dyed on the mechanic. Still no codes. What the problem might be? Every Mechanic that has looked at it has gave up, one even saying, " it's possessed."
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So I was driving home yesterday, drove fine for about 14mi. Then I got a oil pressure low warning light shut off engine. The engine sounded no weird noises or anything so I shut it off checked the oil and it was full and fairly clean. Started it back up sounded fine drove it almost all the way home and it came back on, again no noises and oil was full. I noticed though that it came on mostly coming to a stop or taking off when the rpms hit about 1500-1700.
So I went to the shop I work at and hooked a pressure gauge up and I got 15psi. At idle and 35psi. at 2000rpms. With the engine temp in the normal range. I got the spec from all data which only shows the spec for the 2000 rpm range no idle spec, which was 29psi-65psi I think. So it sounded like it was okay. So I went to advance got a new oil pressure switch it didn't work.
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I have a 2003 Lincoln Navigator with 156K miles. The engine shut down without warning. Towed it to the nearest Ford dealership. They could not find any codes from the computer, but note that compression was lost in the left cylinder bank. The mechanics said the likely cause is a cracked cylinder head and this known to occur in my model year.
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I bought a 84 ranger 2.0 that ran when parked sat for six months. Cranks all day long but only sparks when you shut the key off. Replaced the ignition switch (by key) ( someone told me there is another ignition switch under the dash?? is this true?) Tested the icm and it passed all wires seem to be fine. I am just wondering if something in the dizzy could cause this or possibly the starter solenoid?
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1997 F150 4x4 4.6. Truck was running fine ...suddenly shut down & now no spark, no fuel pump run, no start
1. Shot ether -no start
2. pulled plug - no spark
3. Checked crank sensor - reading .5 - .6
4. Checked fuel inertia switch - seems good
5. Switched fuel relays - no change
Thinking ECM/PCM. Also.. ?? will the "no spark" condition create a "no fuel pump run" condition ? or visa versa? I'm not positive about the reading from the crank sensor... it stays solid at .5... should it move up & down or remain constant ?
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I have a 2001 Ford F250 with 7.3L engine. It has 150,000 miles on it and ran like a top when I bought it four weeks ago. Had it inspected by a diesel mechanic, who gave me a thumbs up, said it was throwing some glow plug codes which I could address later on, and had an oil leak by the ICP sensor. The CEL was on, so I paid a diesel mechanic from a different shop put in a new ICP sensor. I drove it home 14 miles, parked it for about an hour, drove it 2.5 miles to the ranch where I keep my horses, and the truck completely shut down while idling. The batter light when on, and the truck went dead and rolled to a stop. The truck would crank over but not start. I was able to drag it and park it at the ranch, and got it start right up and drove it home in limp mode, sputtering, and trying to die.
Called my original mechanic, and drove it in to look at it. I addressed the glow plug codes with new glow plug controller install, replaced the wiring harness underneath the valve cover, to address any possible shorts. Drove it back out the ranch after bringing it home, and it died in the same exact spot. Was able to make it start and was able to limp it home. Tried to deliver it to the mechanic to look at again, stopped at the ranch on the way, and the truck died completely, couldn't get it to start. Let it cool a bit, still didn't start.
Called for a tow, and the tow truck driver couldn't get it start. Got it to the shop,and it started right up. It has roughly a quarter tank of fuel, and it sounds like it can't get fuel into the engine after it dies. The mechanic is not any codes on it, and can't get it to mess up on him. I am starting to think that it is the angle or speed of the driveway leading up to the ranch. I have to let it idle and slow before making a sharp right to cross over train tracks. I am terrified of having it die on me while I am driving it.
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2001 Jetta GL, 2.0L, 170k miles.... It won't start and it's not likely the fuel pump. After the car has sat for a while, I hear the fuel pump spin up when I open the door. It turns over just fine. I pulled a spark plug, attached it back to the wire, held it close to the head, and when the engine turned over, no spark. Is that still a valid test for spark? I haven't had to diagnose a spark issue for so many years, I don't know whether that has changed.
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VEHICLE: 1992 Ford Explorer, 4.0, 4wd Automatic, CALIFORNIA EMISSIONS w/ 59,000 Miles...
PROBLEM: Engine rolls over great, BUT No Spark, No Fuel
Here are the tests I've done:
- Each and every relay √
- Each and every fuse √
- Ensure inertia switch hadn't popped √
- Directly connect 12 volts to pump & pump came on √
- By-pass inertia switch √
- Replace PCM √
I'm thinking it's time to start checking grounds and chasing wires....
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My 4.6 explorer has a spark knock noise when hot. When the engine is cold or on cold rainy days it does not make the spark knock noise. I have tried higher octane gas and octane boosters but it does not seem to work. Check engine light is not on and there are no codes. Could I have a bad egr valve or knock sensors with no codes...
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I have a 96 v6 explorer that has lost spark and fuel press....
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1998 Ford Explorer. Coil pack isn't putting out spark to that cylinder. Would the next step be to replace the pack, or might I check something else 1st?
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My 2002 Explorer is having a problem. It started running rough suddenly and when I had it checked the # 6 coil pack on the spark plug was bad. We replaced it and it still ran rough. Found fluid on top of spark plug. At first thought it was oil due to the color but later figured out it was antifreeze. We do have a cracked thermostat housing that we tried to seal up a few months ago. Doesn't seem to be coming from there. This is my only reliable transportation.
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Ford Explorer Sport 2000, Number 1 spark plug has miss firing already replaced spark plugs wires and coil pack what more can i do to get spark from number 1 to spark and took garden hose to listen to injectors clicking when running. any other part for spark.
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I used to have a 1999 Mercury Mountaineer 5.0. Loved the truck but sold it because I didn't have a place to store it.
So I bought a 2000 E.B. Explorer! I love it thus far, I was doing a tune-up and now I hate it. I was changing the spark plugs and one of the spark plugs had a lot of rust around it. As I was chipping the rust away so I could get a socket around it coolant started to come out right below the spark plug
I have attached pictures too.
I don't know what this could be. I have done my research, anything from the lower intake manifold gasket to a cracked head. Need info about this type of leak? its no where near any gaskets, I have a friend that says I could have hit a coolant chamber but I wasn't banging hard at all.
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