Ford - Explorer :: 2001 - Crank But Not Firing?
Oct 27, 2013
Been battling this for several months. Sometimes, the truck will crank but not fire. Several attempts, then apply gas pedal, eventually will start. I have read through and searched much of this forum. Let me start with this, every part I have replaced has been with Motorcraft parts. I have done the following:
1. Replaced IAC. Ports are very clean.
2. Replaced fuel pump & filter.
2. 5 Voltage at pump connector is good AND it lights a heavy bulb. Not losing voltage to pump.
3. Replaced MAF sensor. This changed it. Stopped doing the no start for about one month. Then began doing it again.
4. Replaced MAF connector, soldered in a motorcraft connector. Good for 3 days.
5. Have checked connector pin tension and condition at crank sense. Good.
6. No codes.
7. Always shows RPM on scan tool while condition is present.
8. Once it starts, it never dies, not rich, not lean. Fuel trims are great and runs mint.
9. Technician is now in loony bin.
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I have an Explorer Sport 2001 that will not crank nor start. I have replaced the following:
Crankshaft, camshaft sensors
Ignition coil
Ignition switch, neutral safety switch
Fuel filter
Fuel pump
Starter
The battery is less than 6 months old .. Still, the car will not crank, will not start. I have spark, voltage and fuel.
The PCM does NOT communicate with the scanner. I purchased a used PCM off of eBay. This one does communicate with a scanner and gives the following DTC codes:
P1120-- Throttle Position Sensor out of range
B1601-- Unprogrammed Pats Key
Since the car is in the Caribbean I can't tow it to a dealer.
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My son has a 2001 explorer sport that he keeps at college. The vehicle sits alot more than it runs these days. Recently it some times does not want to start, no click when you turn the key. He got it home today, and after I changed oil, it would not start. I have no ground to the starter relay in the power distribution box.
I have no electrical schematics, where the ground for the starter relay comes from ? If I remove the relay and run jumper wires from the box to the relay, i can make the vehicle crank when i apply another ground source to the relay....but it just cranks, will not start.
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Had extreme cold weather here and I left my truck unplugged for a couple of weeks. Started fine but stalled once the fuel was used up in the lines. Replaced fuel filer and filled with that anti gel stuff. Truck sounds like it is almost firing up but still cannot get it to run. When I turn the key on it sound like the fuel pump is working for about one minute and then turns off. Made sure the fuel filter was overfilled with deiseal. Turned it over so many times the lines should be full by now. I used that quick start stuff and it almost starts every time.
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My wife has been telling me our '01 E-350 (Econoline) with 7.3 is taking several attempts to start in the mornings, like it's not even trying to fire. It will crank like wild but no fire and then it will fire usually and sometimes run a little rough but no always.
Tonight she called me from across town and it won't start at all, cranks like wild but won't start, chug or anything.
The WTS light is working fine, the truck runs great and idles smooth all other times, just been giving grief when starting in the mornings (warm outside 70 degree plus ambient temp). I haven't had the truck do it to me but she has explained it well enough.
I do get a SES light for overboost when I run it hard (PHP tuned) but it always goes away and hasn't caused any issues. Could this be the ICP acting like this? If so, is it true that I can just unplug it and the truck will start by using default pressure?
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Ford Explorer Sport 2000, Number 1 spark plug has miss firing already replaced spark plugs wires and coil pack what more can i do to get spark from number 1 to spark and took garden hose to listen to injectors clicking when running. any other part for spark.
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I lend my car to my sister after doing the 60 k service a week after she couldn't start the car . She recorded the problem and later showed it to me , I Only see the rpm meter moving up and back down without firing or even crank. I asked her how did she get it to star?t she reply " I kept trying until it start it took about 10 minutes ". I had it drop off at the dealer and they couldn't find anything, but assume that it's the starter , which I doubt it , if its the starter then it would have been clicking . All terminal are tighten nothing is lose.
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I have a 2001 ford escape v6 the engine light is on and when advance pulled a code it came back egr valve is sticking and #2 is not firing.. I have a 2002 v6 parts car that I ran hot I took both parts off and put on my 01 buts its still running the same..
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2001 f350 7.3 Changed front injector drivers side inspected all 4 glow plugs on this side turned motor over my hand 5 time reinstalled plugs put back together hooked both plugs back up started truck and no of the cylinder on drivers side are firing checked them with temp gun!! what did i not do or do wrong.
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Got a 2004 Elantra that ran hot the other day. When it cooled down I added some water and tried to start it but it just spins over and over and is not firing. Had some trouble with it earlier in the day with the engine racing and feeling like it wasn't getting any power to the wheels. Anyway, after running hot it just turns over. First thought it was the timing belt being broke but turns out it isn't. What else could cause this? Have checked the fuses and none are blown. Acts like it has no compression at all.
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I bought a 01 passat with a bad turbo I drove it home as I was getting home the STOP low oil pressure light came on and I parked it the engine had a lifter rattle but not knocking I went to start next day and Have no fire on first two cylinders (only two I checked), where to start? I pulled coil pack/plug tube out and hooked a plug in to check fire on first 2 cylinders got no spark....
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I have a 2001 f250 5.4 triton. My cb antenna hole leaked water in cab, soaked my fuse block. Horn goes on and off, radio turns on without key in ignition, truck only starts when key is on and I bridge solenoid, and number 4 coil is not firing. I have let truck dry out, fixed the leak. Everything is bad to normal except starting issue and coil issue.
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2002 explorer 4.0l. No crank just click new starter in and cables hooked to battery...
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Kids called and said the battery was dead, truck would not crank over. 2002 EXP 4 L. Drove 90 miles and checked battery to be o.k. Changed out with my truck to double test... no crank. Decided the starter must be bad. Banged on it with a long pipe from above - no start.
Winched onto a trailer and brought it 90 miles home. Winched it off and pulled to the garage. Looking from above i looks like this is a straight forward solenoid / starter / hot wire to the battery. No switches/ etc in between. Though i would try it one more time ... clicked key on and off 3 times and truck started on the 4th turn.
Tried it 6 times over 2 minutes and it started every time.. I am thinking the starter and solenoid don't owe me much after 11 years and 165k miles. Plan to check the cable and ends also.... Just wondering an specific known problem with the starter / cables before i jump in.
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I've been working on this explorer for a week now and I figured it's time to ask around. My explorer won't start/crank, I've replaced the starter, battery terminals, tested voltages/amps/relays and fuses, still nothing. All i get is a heavy clunk, like the starter is engaging but the flexplate won't budge. It's a 2002 4.0 xlt automatic.
I'm fearing the engine is seized as I've tried manually turning the engine with a socket on the crank pulley bolt and even with a breaker bar I can't get it to move. The thing ran fine a week ago and I can't imagine this thing would seize at barely over 100k miles, not hydrolocked or anything I can think of, are these engines prone for spontaneous seizure or am I missing something?
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We have a 94 ford explorer and every now and again it has issues on the start up. It will sound like it will want to crank over but just won't. If we wait 20 mins it will start up no problem. We have changed the fuel pump, fuel filter, ignition coil, and fuel pump relay but it still has this problem. Also occasionally the a/c blower wont turn on. Tonight it happened again and I pulled the fuel pump relay out and it was really hot, after it cooled down and was put back in the car started. I am beginning to think it maybe an overheating issue that is affecting the relays but am not sure. I was also wondering about changing out the relay box...
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My wifes explorer will not attempt to turn over. When I turn the key to the run position the dash does not do anything. I dont get any indicator lights or anything from the dash. And also the PATS light in now a steady dim light. So now I am confused and don't know where to start on this one. Is this a PATS issue or is my instrument cluster the problem? I did read the TSB on the cluster.
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So my 2002 ford explorer with the 4.0 L V6, has been cranking along time before it starts. I thought i had this figured out already, i put a brand new fuel pump in it from the ford dealer. That seemed to work, but the problem came back.
Especially when it is cold, it cranks a lot longer than normal to start. and when it does start RMPS go way up briefly and come back down. Seems to only act up when its cold out, say 35 degrees and lower.
So the remote start wont work because it only cranks for a few seconds and then stops. it tries this three times and it gives up. i go out there to start it and cranks for 10 seconds it seems like, sometimes i have to feather the fuel pedal.
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Picked up a super nice 03' as is with a no start. It cranks over nice and smooth, sounds like it has proper compression, and has proper fuel pressure. Tried spraying either in it and it will almost catch.
Tried putting a known good coil pack on it, no dice. Usually when other engine slip timing chains, it will crank rough, like a few cylinders are zero. This is not the case.
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I'm working on a 1997 4.0 ohv and it has a hard start condition on first start up. any after that it will just be a crank no start condition unless you hold the gas pedal to the floor. Replaced the camshaft actuator, plenum gaskets, coolant temp sender and thermostat, fuel pressure is normal.
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I have an 04 Ford Explorer XLT 4.0 Flex Fuel. There has been loss of power to fuel pump. Relay and fuse both good, replaced the inertia switch...still nothing. Could a FPDM (fuel pump driver module) have anything to do with this issue? Or what should I check next? I am definitely at a loss as to what the issue could be! I know it is fuel related because I used starting fluid and it started right up and run for just a few seconds, so that should rule out ignition I think.
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