Ford - Explorer :: 2001 - Brakes Squeaking / Caliper Bolts Loose
Jan 21, 2014
2001 Explorer sport trac. I had a shop install new front pads because I couldn't brake the caliper bolts loose. I noticed they didn't use any grease on the pads from what I can see, and there has been a quiet rubbing/squeaking sound coming from the wheels (mainly when pressing the brakes). I assume it's the brake pads/caliper parts that still need to be greased. I have the right kind of grease and I'm about to do it, but what parts of the pads/caliper assembly need to be greased?
View 11 Replies
Advertisement
I have the TyrolSport Brake Caliper stiffening kit on my R. My brakes were squeaking and I had not greased the pins in a bit so I thought that might be the issue. When I went to grease them, I notice one pin was completely loose. It was my driver front lower. I greased it and tightened it back up. That was maybe 2 -3 week ago. I checked again on Friday before my track day on Saturday and the same pin was lose. Not all the way like last time, but not locked tight. This one pin is the only one that seems to have issues. The other three are rock solid.
View 6 Replies
I read a reference to the front brake caliper bracket bolts being one time use torque to yield and must be replaced every time they are loosened. Is this true?
This is on my 06 F-350 in my Sig.
View 3 Replies
I read a reference to the front brake caliper bracket bolts being one time use torque to yield and must be replaced every time they are loosened. Is this true?
This is on my 06 F-350 in my Sig.
View 11 Replies
Started to change front pads and rotors on my GX470, but couldn't get the caliper bolts loose. Is it safe to use a torch to heat up the area around the bolts so I can loosen the bolts? Any other way to break these bolts free?
View 12 Replies
I haven't had luck trying to find the torque specs for the caliper bolts on my 2010 ES350. What are the correct numbers? a pdf diagram would be very useful.
View 1 Replies
Is it possible to be able to Drive an R with the drivers side rear caliper bolts missing?
View 6 Replies
Are we supposed to put anti sieze on the turbo to pedestal bolts. They were really hard to break loose when I pulled it Cheater bar tight. 18 ft. lbs sound right ?
View 2 Replies
Ive had plenty of brake issues with this truck since I've owned it and I finally got to inspect a brake i knew was having issues. The outside pad was metal on metal. The inside pad was gone and the one piston was extended completely open while the other one was closed. So to the question. Ive bled it like i do any other caliper and no luck. I went an bled all the other calipers and still no luck. The brakes seem to be working ok even though i never really tested them super hard but the pedal is far lower then it was before.
View 9 Replies
Starting about a year ago, "sometimes" when I step on the brakes and am turning the steering wheel, I loose the power steering. I took it to Ford and they said that this is a a known issue but they didn't say what it would take to fix it. Because this problem is intermittent it is very hard to get this fixed unless the mechanic can experience and verify the problem for himself...
View 14 Replies
I have an 01 explorer sport, this past week I've noticed that after backing up the brake goes all the way down. After a couple pumps they are good to go again. After this they work fine, until the next backing. Where do I begin to look?
View 5 Replies
One thing I cant clear is how to fix the annoying door clicking. The one bolt behind plastic cover on body side isn't a torx 40 its a bolt/philips and its tight. My 2 bolts on door side dont seem to be getting tight. The doors still clik seems to be in join in middle of door arm.
View 11 Replies
Finally took the Wolf in to see about an engine rattle thats been getting worse. The culprit - loose engine mount bolts! Dealer decided to order new bolts, not just tighten the old ones. Also mentioned a recall for the transmission software. Odd that the "recall" wasn't listed on-line for my VIN. It must be the one that smooths the tranny a bit, it is a bit jumpy at low speed.
View 2 Replies
So i folded down my seats today to try and fit a box in and i noticed that the two lower unibrace bolts were unscrewed about half way. When i put it in, those bolts were pretty tight. There is a little movement if i push down hard on the bar. Those dam nutserts dont seem to be a good long term option. I mean if one of them was loose then , but both are loose, and the tops are perfect. Im guessing because maybe the bottoms are taking most of the pressure.
View 24 Replies
Geo Metro loose head bolts... I have a 96 Metro, and for some reason the head bolts loosen by themselves, leading to over heating and planing head ... well you know.I had a farm for 20 years and took care of all equipment myself, have rebuilt numerous motors, but this geo is the first I have seen where the bolts loosen. This is the third time. I know they are tightened right , because I have the tools and experience, but not with this. Other than jb weld in the bolt holes.
View 7 Replies
What is the torque value for the 2 bolts on the upper radiator hose water outlet on an '04 4.6L?
View 1 Replies
My 2012 Avalon developed a slight rattle at 9000 miles that continued to get worse. I took off the right front wheel today and found the top caliper bolt partially loosened. I could turn it with my FINGERS! The other one was tight as were the ones on the left side.
To diagnose this rattle, find a bumpy road that makes it rattle. Put your foot lightly on the brake (to load the caliper). If the noise goes away, it is probably a loose caliper bolt.
View 1 Replies
After putting my Ford Ranger in park and pressing down on the E-break to get the news-paper or mail. I've noticed that there is a consistent squeaking coming from the back drum brakes when the brake pedal is applied. But only for a certain period of time; then the squeaking stops.
View 8 Replies
Due to the rain this weekend I decided to clean out my interior and do some maintenance. Lately my driver-side door has been making a squeaking sound. As such, I decided to lube up all the doors just in case. Upon inspecting all the doors/hinges I found that both the driver-side rear door and passenger-side rear door hinge bolts are rusted real bad. These are the bolts that connect the hinge to the door rather than the hinge to the door frame.
I inspected the door for any sign of water intrusion, but could not see anything out of ordinary. Also, nothing else was rusted or appeared to be water damaged. I inspected all the other hinge bolts around the car for comparison and they were fine. It is strange that both rear passenger doors have this issue. I bought the vehicle used and the Carfax comes back clean with no accidents or damage reported.
The only other time I have seen this is when the door has been worked on, and a socket was used which stripped the protective paint off the bolt. Even then only the rough edges of the bolt rusted, and not the entire thing. While I could foresee one door being worked on, I do find it strange that both would have needed work. However, this assumption does not rule out the possibility.
My only other issue of concern which may play into this is the surprising amount of sand I find on the exterior. As good as one can clean a car there are always some places that will never get fully clean. With that said, while the exterior is clean I have found sand residue in little crevices (weep holes) and corners throughout. I am sure that sand and moisture would play a part in causing rust to accumulate, except that no other parts show any sign of rust. This is certainly bizarre to me. I plan on replacing the bolts, but would like to remedy the problem before hand if possible.
View 1 Replies
My teenage son just bought his first car, a 1991 Ford Explorer XLT 2-wheel drive. I had it checked out by our mechanic before I let him shell out the money, and everything seemed OK. It's the prototypical low-mileage car (127k actual, confirmed by Carfax) owned by a little old man who took good care of it (stack of service records a foot high) and didn't drive it very much.
Earlier this week ... he'd driven it for about two weeks with no issues ... the left front brake caliper locked up on it, to the point where it heated up enormously, the pads and rotors got so hot they were discolored and some transmission fluid got blown out by the strain.
He took it to our regular mechanic, great guy who we've used for years and has worked magic with our cars, he got into it and he diagnosed the problem as ... I hope I'm explaining it right ... a little pin or piston or something in the caliper was upside down. He put it back in the right way, and everything seemed to be OK, although he said my son would probably end up needing a brake job sooner than later because of the way the pad got ground down.
FYI, master cylinder is full of fluid, our mechanic couldn't see any leaks anywhere. Although when we took the car to the mechanic, my son tried to back it up to get a better angle at getting into the service bay, and the pedal went to the floor.
Fast forward two days, and danged if the same thing didn't happen with the right front caliper, seized up although he didn't get it as hot as the other time, parked it a lot quicker. And of course it happens on Friday going into the weekend, when our mechanic isn't working, he won't be able to do anything until Monday, which leaves us scrambling trying to get everyone to work, etc., down one car.
Doing a little online homework ... which we probably should've done before my son made this purchase ... I'm seeing a lot of brake issues with '91 Explorers. I asked my mechanic if he thought there was some ABS-related problem here and he said he didn't think so.
I will say that the car apparently sat undriven for a long time, which I know can unleash a lot of issues. What might be going on here? Do we just need to go ahead and replace the calipers, any hoses, etc., as preventive maintenance?
View 1 Replies
I recently had a dealership mechanic check out a couple of annoying noises my 2012 Jeep Liberty had been making for a few months. The one that really bothers me is a squeak coming from under the hood. It squeaks pretty constantly when I'm accelerating at all, only stops when I brake. Now, I'm totally clueless about cars and I realize how easy it would be for me to be taken advantage of, but I don't want to be bitchy to the guys fixing my car. I was told this squeak is the brake caliper slide so I told them to go ahead and fix it. The guy comes back 3 hours later (had to order the part) and says he's replaced the part and did all he could but it still squeaks. Am I being jerked around? Should I just take it elsewhere for a second opinion?
View 11 Replies
