I have an 01 Explorer 5.0 AWD. I have an intermittent problem of both mirrors going dead. I'm guessing a broken wire in the drivers side door harness at the hinge. Had a window break there.
Looking for a wiring diagram for the mirrors? Kind of like to know what color wires I'm looking for.
Also if you have another typical this is what broke or place to look, by all means I'm listening.
I've got a 2002 jetta. new ecu, new cluster, new keys (new to me from a 2010 beetle) all installed but my windows, door illumination, locks and electric mirrors dont work. Windows will go up and down with key in door, and locks work that way as well. if i put my old cluster back, everything works fine.
View 3 Replies02 4runner starts and when temp start to warm kills. Car is dead. No lites, battery dead. When engine cools, power returns and lites work and engine starts normally. Problem repeats. Replaced battery and alternator.
View 2 RepliesBought some power tow mirrows, aftermarket, any special on installing?
2011 F150 Echoboost, 4 x 4
I'm replacing tow mirrors on my 2004 F250 with 2008 mirrors. Both are factory Ford mirrors. Need wiring diagram since connectors and wires are different. They both have power mirrors, turn signals, heated mirrors, but are not power retract or fold.
View 1 RepliesMy father in law has an '04 Explorer with the 4.0. He tells me he was coming home from an errand and it stopped dead, like the fuel shut off. I checked the inertia switch and it was ok. He replaced the fuel pump but that didnt fix it either. His description is as follows: when he turns the key, it will start, run about 2 seconds, if that, and shut off. It will not restart, if you want to call it that, unless it sits for a 1/2 hour or so. Then it's the same thing all over again.
View 3 RepliesMy radio worked fine. No issues. Next day got in car and radio was dead. No lights, no sound. I bought a new radio XO Vision brand.
I bought a Schoshe wiring kit and wired it up according the instructions. I have power. There are lights and everything but no sound. No static. Nothing.
There are posts about the amp...not sure if i have one. Mine is the 97 explorer that had the 6cd changer in the console.
There is a blue wire left over and the orange one. (Orange is for illumination so I assume I don't need this.)
93 explorer 215000 miles on it runs like a champ 99.9% of the time. I am on my way home today on the highway going 75mph when all of sudden it started slowing down and sputtering. I quickly pulled over and as I did the car shut off. When I was pumping the pedal nothing would happen. I initially thought fuel pump is dead as I dont know if its been replaced. 45 minutes later on the side of the highway after multiple times trying to start, it does and I cruise the next 20 miles home no problems at all????
Got home started it a few times, NO PROBLEMS!
SO the inlaws have I believe a 1996 Explorer XL-not too sure of year-that they will let us use long term if we get it running. Anyway problem is I have the keys, the keys wont turn any of the lock cylinders. I have dumped about a half can of both WD-40 and PB Blaster into all of em and nothing. It has been sitting out back for a year and a half so the battery is so dead. The driver and passenger windows are down about a quarter inch? I want to get in the car without spending any $$ as we will be having twins soon and a free car is too good to pass up.
View 13 RepliesHow hard is it to install heated towing mirrors on an 01 f-250 7.3L?
View 3 RepliesI just bought a 2001 F250 XLT and it came with the standard power paddle mirrors. I would love to add the towing mirrors (preferably heated with signals), but what I am wondering is if the connectors for the mirrors are the same. Also would my truck that came with the standard paddle mirrors be wired for turn signals and heated options? How would I test for this? Also do all XLT's come prewired for the hardwire keyless entry pad if they have keyless entry?
View 1 RepliesI seem to have an electrical issue on my 2004 Hyundai Elantra. When I attempt to start the car, at random times I find that all electricity is off, preventing my car from starting. My brakes and steering wheel also seem to lock up when this happens. I have no clue what might be causing the issue or how to fix it.
I had roadside assistance run a diagnostic tonight after being stranded and my battery and starter are completely fine. I thought maybe this would have been caused by my custom stereo possibly draining the battery, but that has been installed in my car since I got it and has never given me any trouble. I've double and triple checked that my subwoofer and amplifier turn off when my car does so they won't drain my battery.
As an example, tonight I unlocked my driver side door manually, then unlocked the other doors with the button on the door. Electricity was fine there since all doors unlocked. However, when I would attempt to start the car, the electricity would be turned off: no dashboard lights, headlights, car locks, etc. One time this happened when I stopped for gas and had to be towed only to find out that my car turned on without problems once it was dropped off at my house!
I have a 2005 Santa Fe, and both power mirrors quit working at the same time. I plugged in a different switch, and still nothing. I checked the 10 amp fuse under the dash and that was good (is there a different one). The locks still work though.
View 3 RepliesMy electric rear vent windows seem to have a problem opening when the temperature is cold outside. They work almost perfectly when the weather warms up, with the exception of an odd little glitch here and there. Generally summer is good, winter is a no-go. I understand this is a common problem ???
Even at the times when they don't open I can clearly hear an electronic click near the back pillars, with each push of the control switch up front, so I assume the current is making it at least that far and there is no problem with the wiring up to that point.
I have recently removed two used actuators (R+L) from a donor vehicle, and will likely be installing those into my van in the very near future. Although I believe they came from a close but different year windstar which did not have the exact same "rivets" through the window as mine does. External arms etc that can be seen do look identical as does the pivot ball.
#1. is replacement of the actuators a likely solution to the problem ?
#2. by chance, is it merely just an issue of dirty connections with my present actuators ?
#3. can / should I do anything such use dielectric grease on the connections of either my present ones or the donor ones upon replacement, to alleviate future recurrence ?
Have just purchased a 02 prius with a transmission that slips. Would this be a electric motor problem or actual tranny problem?
View 18 Replies2001 F150 ext cab lariat 4x4. My father passed away last christmas and my mother would like to have his truck running. A little back ground truck has a 4.6 has always lacked power. Ford did a motor job on it at ten thousand miles saying it was assembled wrong at factory. #seven cylinder has been dead for years. This spring the cat plugged up on drivers side. The local mechanic put two new aftermarket cats on it. Worked ok for a day. Then started acting up. Truck seems to only be running on three or four cylinders. It will start right up but won't rev up if you put it in gear it stalls. My uncle was s Ford mechanic for years and means well but is too busy to fix it. She has been waiting since may for him to look at it. He claims the problem is likely the wiring harness for the O2 sensors that runs behind the engine. Does this seem reasonable?
View 14 RepliesI have an 03 Santa Fe, 2.7 l AWD. Recently I've begun to notice a whining almost electric motor like sound coming from the rear of the engine. It get more noticeable the longer the trip. The weird thing is that it seems to respond to throttle input more than speed. If I'm cruising at say 65 I can ease off the throttle, reapply the throttle enough to increase RPM but not speed and hear it. I've had the differential, brakes, bearings checked. My mechanic has had it in the air 4 times and has spent atleast 4 hours on two occasions trying to find it. He can hear it. My thoughts are that it could be the Fuel Pump, or the exhaust.
View 11 RepliesWhen it is hot out and the interior of the car gets really hot these things do not work: the electric windows will not work, the turn signals will not work, the display on the air conditioner does not work the blower on the air will not work but the air will come out of the defroster. All the dash lights come on abs, trac on trac off. After the car sits in the shade for at least an hour all these things will work.
View 1 RepliesFor the last few weeks, it has seemed that the battery gauge on my 2002 has been half full more often than it should. I admit that I have no good science for this determination, but about half the time when I return home from work the gauge shows half full, and it returns to full after about 1 - 2 miles of driving. The car has about 122K miles on it.
Today I took a long drive through some pretty steep terrain toward the New River Gorge in WVA. Round trip it was about 750 miles. On the way home, I got an error on the console. I'm not sure what it was, but on the main display there were three boxes with writing. I didn't read them as I was pulling off to the shoulder. By the time I got there, the warning was gone. I turned the car off and restarted it. Everything looked good and I headed the remaining 10 miles home.
Once home, when I turned the car off, I heard a vibrating noise from (I think) the left side of the hood for about 5 - 10 seconds. I turned the car on again, and there is a vibrating sound, and the same turnoff problem.
Is this the final death knell of my traction battery? I have a 120K servicing due about now. I have been planning a reinvolt battery, but it is a bit of a drive away. Should I consider trailering the car down?
I am experiencing what feels like a "bump in the rear" when initially starting from a dead stop. It feels like a car behind me tapped the bumper or that the truck "hunkers down" first, then moves. Tranny seems fine also. Once moving, there is no problem whatsoever. There atre no noises, leaks, or other symptoms. Also, when coming to a stop, it feels the same way just before the truck completely stops. If I drift forward a little, then apply the accelerator, it does not "slip" or hunker down.
Took it to the dealer and they claim that they can't find anything wrong and may just be the suspension releasing? The truck does this whether loaded or not?
2001 F250 CC Lariat SB 7.3
Last month my 2001 Volvo s60, just shy of 100K needed maintenance - i'm the original owner planned to have this car for many more years - let the dealer do 95K scheduled maintenance, new breaks, timing belt and more - for just until $4k. Yesterday my transmission stopped working. Dealer says $5500 to fix. Husband is done and wants to pull the plugs it worth fixing? Is this something dealer should have seen coming at last service?
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