When putting vehicle into park, every so often it will barely enage or not at all. Can hear a clanking noise when rolling back or forward. Trans position sensor?
View 1 RepliesI just bought my 2001 with 153k on it and I notice that sometimes it didn't appear to fully engage in park. What I mean is that.... If I park on a a small incline occasionally after I put it in park and take my foot of the brake..... It will pop into park..... Or I'll have to wiggle a little when I notice the key can't be removed from the ignition. Now that I notice this.... I can make sure it is fully in park each time.
My emergency brake cable doesn't work (and I always do use this religiously on my other cars), and I think having it reduces strain on the transmission..... But darn its near 300 bucks to replace I'm told.
2004 Explorer 4WD XLT 4.0 6cyl - Mileage is 117,000 - Check Engine Light came on - Pulled the code of PO193. Had the Fuel Pressure Sensor changed, Plugs and wires and check engine light is still on after being re-set several times? Car is stalling at times when going from park to drive - It seems to idle ok in park but, when in drive at a red light, the tac will bounce a little and it seems like it's not getting enough fuel and will stall out at anytime. Is there a fuel filer that can be changed? Should I have the fuel injection checked and cleaned along with a fuel filter. Seems to be getting poor gas mileage.
View 1 RepliesMy excursion has come out of park a few times. Not good at the boat ramp.....
View 3 RepliesI have been picking at an engine vibration for more than a year.
I have a '00 Explorer 302 V8 installed in an '82 Volvo. This engine/transmission has not been abused and only has 15k miles since it left the Ford factory. It was found intact on a pallet in dry storage. Everything was there as from Ford from the fan to the transmission output bushing. There is an engine vibration beginning about 2000 rpm in PARK so the problem is not in the transmission or drive shaft.
Perfectly smooth at idle and until you approach the start of the vibration.
Replaced the viscous clutch mechanical fan with duel electric so it isn't an out of balance fan.
Pulled the serpentine belt this afternoon and still have the vibration. Might have been a little less and I did find a idler pulley that had a little rattle but the big vibration is still there with only the harmonic balancer through torque converter rotating.
Replaced the pulley. Nothing else changed from when Ford built it.
No OBD codes.
My 2004 explorer honks 3 times on lock and 4 times on unlock when you just press the remote once.
View 5 RepliesTrying methods found elsewhere on this site not working anymore. No matter how much wd-40 and door slamming I do, I am getting the 4 short honks on lock and 2 on unlock. No door ajar light and interior lights go off as normal so it doesn't seem to be door open sensor.
View 9 RepliesOur 1999 CRV has had the clutch fail several times in the past year. The pattern is that you notice it slipping a bit now and then, but trending worse over a few days. Then it gets dramatically worse in a period of minutes: it does not engage fully when let out. The pedal feels fine, the engine is running fine, but power is not transmitted to the wheels.
On two occasions, we were able to take it directly and the mechanic resolved the problem with some adjustment to the master cylinder, or something like that (my wife spoke to the mechanic and it was many months ago).
Last winter, I was driving as the problem was recurring and I found myself nursing the slipping clutch up a steep one mile grade. At the top of the hill, totally flat ground, the problem continued to get worse for the next half mile, till there was no power at all! Engine fine, pedal action fine, but effectively the clutch was permanently disengaged. I left the car there over night. The next morning, before calling for a tow, I tried again and the clutch was working! I could tell it was still slipping a bit, but it was no problem to drive to the mechanic, who fixed the problem again for just a hundred bucks or so.
Yesterday, my wife again found that the clutch failed completely over the course of a few miles driving. She had to be towed. Today the mechanic says they can't reproduce the problem!
For the last little while I have been having an issue with the 4wd in my 2006 F-150 with about 93k on the clock. Sometimes it would engage when I switched to 4H/4L and other times it wouldn't. A friend of mine works at a Ford dealership and said it could be the vacuum solenoid on the firewall going bad. So I bought a new one and as I removed the old one, noticed debris in one of the inlets. So I cleaned that out and neither old or new solved the problem. Then I went through ALL of the vacuum lines and found some debris in parts of them....
Cleaned them all out and still nothing. Then I got to thinking it may be the ESOF motor on the transfer case. Checked to make sure there was power to the plug, which there was. Removed the motor and turned switch, and the motor seemed to be working. Reattached the motor and the 4wd would engage/disengage without problem. Pretty much everywhere I went I would check it and it worked fine . Then all of a sudden it didn't . So I took the motor off, turned selector and it worked fine. No issues yesterday at all.
So, I am not sure if it is the motor going bad or not. Could there be a contact problem? I talked to a mechanic this morning and he told me to drive around with it in 4H for a while because more times than not it doesn't get used enough. I'm just not sure what could be going on...am I missing something?
So, I bought a 2012 camry se about 2 months ago and as soon as I got it home I noticed a clicking in the drivers side door when I open and close it. There's three clicks before its fully open, I'm thinking that it clicks at every stop point the door has. I know there's some models that have this put it stock so the wind doesn't blow your door shut on you, is this what it is? I tried looking online about it but couldn't really find anything.
View 14 RepliesJust a little background, my Ex is a 2000 V10 4x4 with 217,000 miles. I've owned it for a little under a year. Very clean truck, and well maintained by previous owner. Now the issue. Starting about a month after I bought it, it would occasionally hesitate to engage drive from park. I checked fluid and it was full and clean. I had a buddy recommended that I check for chafed wires in the steering column which I did and found nothing. It seemed to get better for a while but now it's back. It's doing it more than half the time I put it in drive and sometimes takes 10-15 seconds to engage. So am I probably looking at a new trans? Or, is there anything that can be done to save the old trans?
View 1 RepliesIt clunks real bad at random times. Whether I have had the e-brake on or not (sometimes even with it on, so I have not put any load on the locking mechanism in the tranny).
Its a 2014... Does not matter if its inclined ground or flat.
My 08 F350 V10 it replaces never once clunked.
I have a 1994 F-150 extended cab electronically activated 4x4, with the 302 V8 and an e4od transmission.
When the truck is running and it is in park or neutral it makes a grinding/whining noise and when it is in gear it doesn't engage, or occasionally will barely engage, but only enough to move it a little ways.
I've read a couple of post that suggested bad connections to the transmission could cause the transfer case to be in neutral which could cause a similar problem to this. I checked all the connection the best I could and the only thing I found that gave me any concern was one of the wires connected to the transfer case shift motor had some of the insulation melted or rubbed of and the wire was a bit corroded.
Is there any chance that this could be causing my overall problem with the truck not driving? Or what might be going on with it? Or any way I might be able to fix it without having to hand over a significant chunk of change for the full rebuild.
I have an 07 Prius that's been going great for me. About two weeks ago I get this strange error message about my P Lock mechanism and how I need to be parked on a flat surface with the parking brake fully engaged. The car wouldn't start, just a bunch of warning lights. Finally I replaced the 12v battery at the dealership.
View 8 RepliesMy new-to-me Explorer appears to switch to 4WD high but refuses to engage 4WD low. And now I have the 6-times-flashing 4WD and 4WD low dash lights when turning the ignition on.
I used the correct procedure: Stop the car, put it in neutral, and switch to 4WD low. Nothing happens.
I looked for a ground wire from the top of the transfer case to the chassis. I can't find any such wire. All the under-hood fuses are intact.
In the process of looking for the ground wire I discovered a capped 3/8 inch or so vacuum hose about 6 inches long with a right angle fitting at the front of the transfer case. I also found a capped 2-foot-long hose of similar size connected to the top of the front differential. What the heck are these hoses? Has somebody intentionally disabled the 4WD?
I am reasonably adept at electrical repairs, troubleshooting, and modifications..
I have a 2003 Explorer, I went to use the 4X4 the other day and the light comes on when I switch it 4H or 4L but nothing else happens. So I am thinking it might be the 4X4 mod. How can I test it?
View 1 RepliesI have a 2004 Explorer 4.0 4x4 with 130,00 miles that started with the transmission periodically going into neutral while driving and sometimes while stopped at an intersection. Engine running, but no reverse or drive gear. After shutting down engine and restarting, I can drive again only to have it happen soon again. I have changed rear speed sensor, throttle position sensor, dropped the tranny pan and changed the ATF as well as tranny filter.
I also attempted to replace the transmission range sensor but was unable to remove the nut that holds the shift level onto the sensor. Sent 5 hours one day.... nut will not budge. Now the shifter inside the truck does not feel the same when shifting through the gears. Now the transmission will only engage in reverse but the truck will not move. If I wait 30 sec or so the truck will move in reverse. No engagement in drive, 3rd, 2nd, or 1st.
I forgot something my battery went dead and it got jumped (left lights on) and now i am getting the 4x4h light blinking it blinks 10 times and then stops and after about a min or so it blinks 10 times again and i am also getting a low oil message on the message center all this started after the battery went dead?
View 4 RepliesRecently, my Explorer will sound like a cessna first thing in the morning, and then at random times through out the day. Then, the other day, the temp spiked on my wife. She pulled over, and let it sit for a bit, started it back up, and haven't had a problem since with temp. We only hear the sound on acceleration, and I have noticed that my F250 does it sometimes also, but not to the same extent. Is this normal, or a sign that the fan clutch is bad?
View 8 RepliesSo I just bout an 03 explorer with 85k miles on it last month. the 4wd high light keeps flashing 10 times. i read the thread below and found this...
Diagnostic Flash Code Information
NOTE: The following flash codes 1 through 16 are
On-Board Diagnostic
(OBD) codes generated by the control module. If a system fault is detected, the control module will "flash out" the corresponding fault code on the electronic four-wheel drive Malfunction Indicator Lamp (MIL) on the instrument panel. Also, notice that all the codes that can be generated pertain only to the speed sensors, the clutch coil and clutch with the exception of the first flash code.
The electronic four-wheel drive system also includes the brake switch input, Park/Neutral Position (PNP) switch input, one power and two ground lines, along with the E-4WD MIL. The following pinpoint tests include testing on every electronic four-wheel drive circuit and not just those covered by the flash codes.
DIAGNOSTIC FLASH CODE CHART
Flash CodeDescriptionAction to Take
Inoperative or Erratic System Errors.Complete Tests AA through DD.
1Microprocessor RAM (Random Access Memory) access error.Replace Control Module.
2Clutch connector or clutch coil has discontinuity.GO to Step FF1.
3Front output speed sensor connector or internal circuitry of sensor has discontinuity.Go to Step EE1.
4Rear output speed sensor connector or internal circuitry of sensor has discontinuity.Go to Step EE1.
5Both front and rear speed sensor connectors and/or internal circuitry of sensors have discontinuity.Go to Step EE1.
6Clutch and front sensor connectors and/or clutch coil and/or internal circuitry of sensor have discontinuity.First see Step FF1, then Step EE1.
7Clutch and rear sensor connectors and/or clutch coil and/or internal circuitry of sensor have discontinuity.First see Step FF1, then Step EE1.
8Clutch and both sensor connectors and/or clutch coil and/or internal circuitry of sensors have discontinuity.First see Step FF1, then Step EE1.
9Mechanical problem that allows clutch plates to slip during clutch engagement (or faulty sensor output signal).First see Step FF1, then Step EE1.
10Both Code 9 and Code 2.See action for Code 9.
11Both Code 9 and Code 3.See action for Code 9.
12Both Code 9 and Code 4.See action for Code 9.
13Both Code 9 and Code 5.See action for Code 9.
14Both Code 9 and Code 6.See action for Code 9.
15Both Code 9 and Code 7.See action for Code 9.
16Both Code 9 and Code 8.See action for Code 9.
Regeneration (Recovery) of Flash Codes
If the ignition is turned OFF and the code is lost, the ignition will have to be turned ON again to regenerate codes 1 through 8, if the condition or conditions still exist. To regenerate codes 9 through 16, the vehicle must be driven again.
How accurate is this information? also where can i find a replacement clutch connector? New to fords so I am not sure where to get parts.
My 2002 explorer, 4.0l engine. My 4x4 light on the dash blinks 10 times and I've found that sometimes the 4 wheel drive locks in. When i pull into a parking space on dry road I can feel the front of the truck Jerking when trying to park. I hit the 4x4 auto button on the dash a couple of times and the 4 x 4 will disengage. While driving on dry road yesterday the 4x4 light started blinking and I felt the 4x4 slam in. The 4x4 light still blinks and I can't disengage the 4 x 4 this time. The truck has 140,000 miles on it. I'm thinking its the 4x4 control module but I'm not sure.
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