Ford - Explorer :: 2000 XLS - Wipers Will Turn On Occasionally When Going Over Bumps
Nov 3, 2012
Before I actually open the steering column and start looking. The problem is when I am going over bumps, once in a while my wipers will turn on on there own. Would this be the relay or the switch it self? Once in a while when I turn on the left turn signal, it freezes and I need to turn it off then back on and I have a small amount of smoke (burnt wire smell) that comes out the hazard button (its the only area it can), so I'm thinking it might be the switch itself. This is on a 2000 explorer xls.
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I recently did a brake job on an 02 Explorer, consisted of new pads and rotors (Rear). The Slide pins were fine and the piston was not frozen in the calipers.
Shortly after the Explorer will occasionally make this "thump...thump....thump..." feeling/sound.
It is not vibration.... it feels more like passing over small bumps in the road.
It is most consistent from 30-50mph, but I have felt it from 20-65.
It is more prominent on decel, but you can feel it on accel as well.
It makes no difference if you touch the brakes or not, or if you push the clutch in and/or take it out of gear.
Speed does not seem to effect the timing of the "thumps" it appears to be the same from 20-60mph. I'm at a loss...
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Turn wipers on and motor growls but wipers do not move, checked 30 amp fuse and it is good, all other functions of the multifunction switch are good.
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I just got a 2000 toyota echo from my dad and it is having a strange problem when i turn on the windshield wipers the front two lights for like the parking lights come on and i have replace the wiper motor and it still does it and I also checked my ground wires good this be a pitched wire or the switch going bad ...
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We took our Ex to a local business and got almost 6k worth of work done prior to our trip. This included specific instructions to inspect the brake systems and replace anything that needed it. The work done included new front calipers, pads, hubs, new xrf ball joints, new shocks all the way around including dual fronts, a 6.0 tranny cooler and all new fluids. I alook tried getting a magtec differential cover installed but was told it didn't fit.
Long story short, while on the road we began to notice a grinding noise occasionally on small bumps. In reding ca our rear drivers side brake pads basically disintegrated and we were stranded while BigO replaced both pads, calipers and one rotor. They also advised that the slide pins were frozen on both calipers. This had no effect on the other noise I described.
Now that we're home we went back to the original shop and explained what happened. The owner agreed to take another look at the truck but basically said he stands behind his employees. He admitted that they chose not to examine the rear brakes to save usome "3 hours" of shop time. He also said that the rear brakes would've cost the same regardless of if they'd replaced them instead of BigO.
When my wife pointed out that our family had been first of all put in danger and secondly stranded by his worker's shoddy examination. He then preceded to ask why I insisted on doing so much work to such an old, high mileage truck. I left our truck with him so they could see if the sound could be traced back to anything they worked on and off course they didn't hear it.
I'm going back there tomorrow to take him for a drive and show him the noise which I repeat only started after their work was done. Am I wrong to be furious and think this crap is completely bs?
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I had a concern especially when cold outside. Ocassionally the door ajar light illuminates when going over bumps or turning, more like flashes and the module/ relay buzzes. No chime goes off so I don't think the drivers door is the culprit. I do know that going on the interstate it sounds like a wind tunnel and even with the slider closed i can see the outside at the top closest to the rear side window(non sliding window behind sliding door). Its been irritating and we want to fix it right not hack meaning not just unpluging things just to squeak by...
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Put in two starters in two years. This winter started having trouble when driving car - occasionally when I hit a bump in the road the radio and wipers cut off and if I pull over and restart the car they will come back on. My mechanic thought it was due to a loose battery cable and he tightened it up but, it is still happening. Also noted - when starting occasionally I hear a e-e-e-rk sound (I think the ignition) and if I turn key to off and try again it usually starts - sometimes it takes 2-3 tries. Infinity 1998 I30 Touring...
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I have a 2005 Sport trac and just recently my windshield wipers, while in intermittent mode, started going at normal speed. It started as here and there, but now it's constant to where I have to pull the 20A fuse to the wiper motor to turn them off. A bit of a hassle. The ford dealer gave me a relay, but couldn't tell me where it goes. I tried another part store and they can't find any info on where this stupid thing goes. I have searched the internet every which way I can think of and can't find any info on it at all!! Where is the relay for the wipers? It is not in the relay box. That I can find anyway.
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Heres the problem hi and low work fine but the wipers don't go into a rest position, they intermittently work sometimes but stop at the top of the rotation when I turn them off the stop wherever they were when I turned them off. I've replaced the turn signal wiper control switch and the wiper motor. (2001 explorer sport)...
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My wife's 07 explorer rear wiper wont work cant find wire diagram tested for power no power had hatch open, say hatch close, still no power say relay. Where switches relays fuses are besides the 5 amp fuse below the dash....
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I have a Sport trac and its killing me. The windows, radio, wipers and 4x4 does not work. I have checked all of the fuses and even replaced the GEM module and they are still not working.
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Yes, another thread on an explorer that occasionally has trouble starting. One cold morning the fuel pump would not operate. When turning the key to run the volts to the pump (with plug disconnected) was 8.6 for a second, then dropped to the 6v range. I took the inertia switch from the firewall and back probed the wire going to the fuel pump, getting 12 volts. I went back to the fuel tank and measured the voltage with the key in run position, and read battery voltage. The car started, and has not failed in 3 days. I know it will quit again. I was thinking of replacing the inertia switch and fuel pump relay.
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So I noticed this when I had my windows down and the music off (or very low) for the past few weeks (at this point). About 3800 miles on the car, and maybe once or twice during a drive It is an occasional clank/ metallic noise that sounds like it is coming from either the left or right side depending on which tire hits the bump. But I can go over any number of bumps before and after with no noise at all, and it's not like I'm hearing it on just large bumps/ potholes. I've never heard it on any speed bumps.
I have a feeling it is when only one tire drops down a bit from a small bump, but that is only a feeling, and it's on small bumps. I tried looking up other threads on here for suspension noise, but mostly only finding things dating back to 2011 or so with brake caliper pins, possibly motor mount but nothing really recent.
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I have a 1997 explorer 5.0 AWD. The problem is that when it is about 44 degrees and below, the windshield wipers, power windows, and interior lights don't and won't work. We will run the heater until it warms up the interior, then everything seems to work fine. I usually leave the wipers on so I know when it is warmed up enough. I have checked all of the fuses and all are fine. the only thing that I can think of is there is a crack in the back of the fuseblock that breaks contact when the metal is cold.
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I just replaced the cv joint, the wheel bearings, and the tie rod end on my passenger front side hoping this would fix the problem. It fixed some of the issues but while driving straight when I go over bumps there is a muffled knocking sound coming from that area and my steering becomes loose and jerky. I'm just learning how to work on my cars on my own.
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Problem on early 2001 Sport Trac 4X4. I don't have the whining but a clunk when I go over bumps. I jacked up the left side and I can pull the rear wheel in and out maybe a 1/32 and I hear the clunk so I'm sure the loose rear end is the problem. How do I go about fixing it? New/used rear end? Mine is a 2001 (drum rear brakes)...
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I have a 2005 Explorer XLT Sport 4x4 w/ 118k miles. I am having front end noise when I go over speed bumps, driveway aprons, etc.
I already replaced the Struts/Coils, and ball joints, the sway bar end links are newer. The noise is almost like a noise an old spring mattress would make.
What could the issue be?
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My truck is vibrating and shaking when you go over 30. but occasionally stops. I replaced the whole rear end, rear shocks, rear brakes, rear drive shaft U- joints, rebalanced the rear tires( they needed that). at least that fixed the noise (grinding) from the rear end is gone but it is still vibrating.. Over $700 in it this week. at least i did the repairs myself and saved a bunch of money. But i am now stumped... I dont know it if is front end issues, transfer case issues, transmission issues....
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I just acquired a 2007 explorer and have a little issue where the interior lights occasionally come on while driving. Did a little investigation and found that when I wiggle the ignition key the lights come on. Also noticed that when vehicle is shut off and door is open, I can wiggle the key and the "key in ignition" chime is intermittent. I'm guessing I need a new ignition switch and have a few questions regarding replacement of the switch.
I'm assuming the ignition keys have the chip in them and was wondering if I will have to reprogram keys or the switch or whatever...And if reprogramming is necessary, is it something that I can do myself?? Also, it looks as if I can replace the switch separate of the ignition lock cylinder. Will just replacing the switch fix my problem or do I need to replace the lock cylinder tumbler assembly as well??
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At highway speeds above 60 mph on a smooth road, the vehicle runs fine. But if the road has any bumps at all, even small ones, it starts to vibrate very fast as long as there are bumps. The steering wheel almost becomes a blur. It's like it's going into oscillation.
The wheels have been balanced and rotated. The movement the steering wheel is not side to side, like I have experienced with imbalanced wheels.
The shocks look fine and I am told that they are OK by the tire dealer . I have never had this kind of a problem with bad shocks. The vibration is just too rapid.
Before I take the truck in for the mechanic to inspect it, I would like to know what the problem might be.
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Wipers work in all modes, but won't shut off. I was told there should be a shut off in the wiper motor that's not working. Would I be able to splice in a shut off switch, where is the best place?
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