Ford - Explorer :: 2000 XLS V6 Freeze Plugs Are Leaking Coolant
Oct 24, 2013
Mine has a 4.0 V6, the freeze plugs are leaking coolant, the guy at the shop said it will require pulling the engine to replace them. Is there an easy ( less expensive ) fix ? I was told I could use block sealer, is that an option? She has appox.160,000 miles...
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M y 90 aero 3.0 heads are leaking front and back freeze plugs. I think back ones are pretty accessible from inside. How hard to change it . I changed block plugs. What size are head plugs?.
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Ok my 2000 Toyota Celica GTS is having 2 very bad issues.
1st - It is hesitating very bad when doing "cold starts" and nearly dies when I turn the A/C on (engine code reads : Random/Multiple Misfires on all 4 cylinders)
2nd - I have to put in 1 pint of Anti Freeze every single WEEK! It is not leaking on the ground as far as i can tell too.
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So I am working on my 5.4 I pulled and discovered that is is very oily behind the freeze plugs. The motor is on a stand and has been upside down a few times. There was still a little oil in it as I can see a decent puddle under it where I didn't tighten the drain plug entirely. Why would there be oil built up there? I have the two from the back of the heads out and the two on either side closest to the rear of the block. What kind of issue am I looking at? Here is the build thread that I am doing about the truck and this motor.
DH-Rear of Driver Head
PH-Rear of Passenger Head
PRBS-Passenger Rear Block Side
PMBS-Passenger Middle Block Side
DRBS-Driver Rear Block Side
DMBS-Driver Middle Block Side
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I have a 2002 f250 super duty 4 dr w/ full lenth bed. has v10. had oil cooler problem, motor oil in coolant. fixed that, then rad started leeking, replaced that. now blowing freeze plugs on block. replaced i on drivers side rear, now popped one on pass side. whats going on? i know oil pressure is more than water, did the oil cooler leak losen the freeze plugs? What size freeze plugs they are? no parts house around here knows.
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I am to take a road trip within the next week, but recently my vehicle had been running hot and leaking coolant. I only discovered this problem when I turned on my A/C. I diagnosed the problem that the seal on my radiator was giving way when too much pressure built up and that's what caused the coolant leak. Do this trip would put too much pressure on my coolant system with the consistent driving. The trip is a 18-19 hrs drive, and I'll only be driving one-way. There won't be a return trip. Can I wait to get my radiator replaced when I get there or will I be risking it if I drove with the radiator in this condition?
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My 2000 F150 started leaking from a small pin hole in the coolant bypass pipe that is located on the top / front of the intake manifold, it is the pipe that flows toward the heater core. I decided to remove it without pulling the intake "being lazy". I almost had it and it snapped, while trying to retrieve the piece that was still in the hole It broke and part fell into the intake, I assume into the head in one of the coolant ports. I have removed the intake and still cant seem to see it or retrieve it. I have tried a shop vac, and a magnet wand, still nothing. While pulling a vacuum I noticed that I had flow / suctions from all my cooling ports on both heads, the line from the heater core, and even my top radiator hose.
So I guess my question is, If I cant get this out and it fell into one of the water jackets in my block will it hurt anything??? I know rust and other things end up in there anyway. I still haven't given up on removing, I am really in need of answers,, in case I cant remove it. I do know the flow of coolant is up through the pipe I was trying to replace, and either through the heater core (hose), thermostat, or maybe the bypass back to pump.
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I read a lot here about the best antifreeze coolant. If the truck will never, and I mean never, be exposed to freezing temperatures, do I need antifreeze? Our lowest ever temperature was 66 degrees or so.
What should we use? I have a 2004 550.
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Today while I was working I walked back to my truck after finishing the job and saw a red fluid leaking from behind the front bumper, I crawled underneath and saw that it was leaking from somewhere between the plastic cover for the fan and the radiator but I couldn't find exactly where it was coming from, I drove 30 miles before I got to the job site with my ac on, and my ac was making a noise that seemed like a whirling noise but I kinda brushed it off as the condenser going bad or whatever. After I found my truck leaking I decided to drive 20 miles to the next job site but this time I left the ac off and nothing happened the temperature gauge didn't even go up, I checked underneath when I finished driving and there was no more coolant leaking from the radiator. I drove it an additional 50 miles before I got home and still no leaks. Could the bad ac system cause coolant to leak? I have a 2000 excursion 5.4L V8
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I used to have a 1999 Mercury Mountaineer 5.0. Loved the truck but sold it because I didn't have a place to store it.
So I bought a 2000 E.B. Explorer! I love it thus far, I was doing a tune-up and now I hate it. I was changing the spark plugs and one of the spark plugs had a lot of rust around it. As I was chipping the rust away so I could get a socket around it coolant started to come out right below the spark plug
I have attached pictures too.
I don't know what this could be. I have done my research, anything from the lower intake manifold gasket to a cracked head. Need info about this type of leak? its no where near any gaskets, I have a friend that says I could have hit a coolant chamber but I wasn't banging hard at all.
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My car is BMW2000 323i. My coolant is leaking, I need to refill it every month. The dealer told me I need to change the radiator and some related components in the coolant system. But the labor fee is too high.
I was told to use a coolant seal to fix the problem like K-Seal. After a long time searching on the Internet, I got confused. Someone says it works, but other people say it never works. What should I do?
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I just bought a 2000 F250 SD 6.8 v10 and its mixing coolant in the block and leaking oil. I'm debating on just dropping a newer v10 in it but im just not 100% sure that this engine is shot. It runs great when there's oil in it and I can't even tell there's any problems going on for well over a couple hours after i fill it up with oil.
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I have a 94 Camry left to me by my father inlaw when he died a year ago. I notice antifreeze coming from a weep hole just above one of the alternator mounting brackets. Whats involved with replacing the water pump and timing belt? Im guessing thats what it is and while I am in there I will replace the timing belt as I dont believe either have been replaced. The car has about 160,000 miles on it. I kept my Windstar going for about 250,000 miles before my daughter wrapped it around a tree so Im sure its something I can handle. The problem is time as we are getting into winter. Is it a major job or something that can be done in a few hours?
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91 Dodge D150 1/2 ton truck with a 318 (5.2L). Approx. 135K miles. Noticed a leaking freeze plug right behind the starter. Removed the starter & replaced the offending plug. I've also replaced other plugs on the block as needed in the past. While I had the starter out, I went ahead and replaced it as it was getting old & tired. After buttoning everything up while adding coolant, I got a major waterfall coming out between the trans and the engine block.
My project for today is to remove the transmission so I can get to the rear plugs and replace. How many plugs are back there? I'm obviously changing all the plugs back there along with the rear main seal. Is there any advantage going with the brass plugs or should I just stick with the regular ones?
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Is this normal for the GS300 to loose anti-freeze coolant in its reservoir? My 2006 GS300 had little coolant in the reservoir on Monday and I took it to my local Toyota dealer to check it out. They recommended me to do a flushing instead of draining and filling for the coolant since the previous owner never changed it. I did the flushing and they put it Toyota SLLC (pink) coolant as well as filling up the reservoir to full mark. Today I check the reservoir again and it is 1" lower. Is this normal? I check the radiator, engine, hoses but I did not see any leak. The temperature is fine, no overheating or anything.
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I am wondering why my 2000 Ford Taurus experiences gas line freeze on a handful of occasions each winter, when our other vehicles never have this problem during our winters. It doesn't get extremely cold here, I live 50 mi south of Indianapolis, IN. Last winter I had this problem on a few occasions, and basically just waited for the temp to warm up above freezing, and the car started. Now it has happened again this year, with temps down in the high teens/low 20's. Car is parked under a carport at night - my battery is cranking strong, my fuel pump is doing it's humming noise when the key is turned 'on', tank was filled a day or two before this happened, and our other vehicles are starting just fine. We do use Heet in our gas tanks during the winter, but I hadn't gotten around to adding any to my tank before this incident. I have lived in northern Wisconsin and the Chicago area, and never had this happen to my old beaters back in those days....what is the big problem with the Taurus?
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When my 2000 GTI VR6 sits for a week or two the coolant will run low. There are no leaks that I can find. No coolant in the oil. The crack pipe looks dry. Nothing from the thermostat hosing that I can see. The carpet by the heater core is dry. Nothing that I can see. The thing that is funny is I can drive the car with it 100 degrees outside in Georgia and have no problems with the coolant getting low, or any signs of a leak, smoke or smell. The head gasket and every gasket except the oil cooler and oil stand gasket were replaced about two years ago. The heater core was also replaced at the time. I gave the front pulled loose so I can pressure test the system and look more today.
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2000 F250 7.3 diesel... It began doing this last summer. It will blow cold and freeze you out then it gets hot and burns you up. If you step on the gas pedal for a bit, it will go cold again. We have changed high & low pressure switches and added more freon. What else do we need to look into?
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So over the weekend my 2000 jetta VR6 started leaking coolant and getting way to hot. So i parked it at work and eventually got it towed to a friends shop. I haven't looked at the car since then so bear with me on the descriptions I'm giving as they are just what he told me over the phone. I'm going to try and get to the shop in the morning to check it out some more. He says I have a leak in 2 hoses that look like they are just rotted out.
First hose he says "Comes from the back of the head and is about a half inch wide. it goes into a Y and then the top half goes into a smaller hose." The 2nd hose he says "on the top of the coolant bottle there is a line that goes across the back of the firewall then comes into a rubber hose and from that hose their is a T going into other places."
Obviously that's not a lot to go on. and when I'm looking at replacement hoses at shops online I'm not seeing ones that match these descriptions really. I've been looking for a diagram or some kind of illustration of these hoses so that i can send it to him and he can figure out which ones they are but I have not been able to find one.
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2000 Subaru Outback. The head gaskets have begun to leak slightly (oil and coolant), even though I brought it in for the recall at 80K and the dealer put in the additive. I recently (111,000 miles) put in another bottle of the additive coolant conditioner and the leak seems to have at least slowed to a trickle. Is it really essential to have the head gaskets replaced? Or could I just keep an eye on the oil and coolant levels and put a bit of kitty litter in my garage? Some of the information I googled indicates that the recall of this car is for an OUT leak and not an INNER leak--which would be worse. Is it true that an OUT leak is not as worrisome?
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I have a 2000 V6 3400 engine. I had the intake gaskets repaired with the "good metal ones" according to the mechanic I had do the job. Cost me $600. Car still has coolant leak it overheats every 3 days or so. Leaves no puddles under car when parked. Can smell coolant when stopping at stop light or stop sign or when parking car. No obvious coolant running down or pooling on the engine. Sometimes it seems like smell is coming from heat vents but no wet spots on carpet or liquid coming out of vent. Took to mechanic again and he said it was the head gasket leaking. Wants $1100 to fix it. Don't have the money. Was wondering if any of these additives you can get at Autozone Etc. may work. It wouldn't be my first choice but financially it's about all I can do right now.
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