Ford - Explorer :: 2000 - Won't Start - It Sputters
Jan 27, 2016
I'm fixing my mother's Ford Explorer 2000 it turns over but won't start it sputters and everyone smile you hear what sounds like a small backfire.
it seems to be getting good spark I can get it to start for a little while and run on either. So I'm assuming the plugs and wires are working well they look good. When I tested the spark it looks very good.
ECM fuses look good able to use a scanner Jump fuel relay and can hear pump run I made sure there is gas in the gas tank
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I have a 1997 explorer sport 4x4 4.0 sohc It has a real tuff time with cold starts sputters won't hold and idle sits at about 500 rpm once its warm its not as bad still has a low idle.
Also i have a constant engine rattle thinking left front cam tension-er
Also throwing and check engine light odb scan tool shows o2 sensor position two is bad
I was thinking intake gaskets and new tension-er is a good place to start.
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I have a 2000 Mazda Protege LX with 38k miles on it and a 1.6L engine and it starts fine in the morning to go to work and starts fine in the afternoon to go home from work. If I get home and change clothes, hop in the car to go somewhere, it won't start, turns over like it's out of gas, sometimes sputters and lopes before it just stops firing. It seems to only do this in the afternoon, specifically between 3pm and 5pm, never after dark or in the morning. I can drive all day long as long as I don't cut off the engine.
After sitting for about fifteen to thirty minutes, it will start like nothing ever happened. So far, it only does it once per day. After I get it started in the afternoon, I can seem to go anywhere, stop as many times as needed, and it keeps starting every time. It seems to be getting more frequent as the weather warms, never did it in January or February, but so far has done it every time I try to start it when the temp is around 80 or higher. I get no engine light, temp gauge is normal.
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My 96 Explorer has been sputtering on me. I took a right turn one day and now its sputters at acceleration. It has a new fuel pump, filter, injectors, coil pack, plugs, wires, idle sensor, EGR valve. Also, all vacuum lines are good and not cracked or broken. My mass air flow sensor is also clean and clear. I have done all my own repairs on my cars and trucks all my life and thought I was good at it (not so sure about that now).
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I have a 2006 Ford Explorer 4.0 V6 that when speed up around high 4 gear entering 5 from what I can hear (it is an automatic) it sputters slightly and you can feel the acceleration kinda die or cut out for a millisecond. I connected the OBD reader and no codes. I noticed the check engine light came on and then off so I replaced the spark plugs replaced and transmission fluids, checked all fluids and leveled them then replaced the fuel filter while I was at it. Drove around for a day like normal did about 50 miles no lights came on but then today while driving in the morning when I accelerated to around 55-60 entering 5 gear the car did the sputtering and loss of acceleration again and no lights or codes.
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I have been having issues with my 2001 sports trac 4x4 v6 sohc fuel in. 132k mileage. The problem is I can jump in and it will start first try, fuel pump is heard activating, idle is rough, feels like truck is about to die, pumping on the gas usually causes it to catch and smooth out......after 10 mins. or sometimes less than that truck starts to sputter, step on throttle it dies faster, sometimes when stepping on the throttle before it dies and a truck is able to rev up and then back to idle and not die.
But most times stepping on the gas when it begins to sputter after running for 10 mins or so causes it to die once it dies it doesn't start back up and when key is turned on and off, no fuel pump activation noise. I have scantool data take off an autel 619 saved to notebook text format. Those are my numbers for the scan tool, suggestions I have gotten so far are vacuum leak, failing fuel pump, bad o2 sensors, bad MAF.......so far replaced fuel filter and cleaned MAF....no difference.
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I just bought a 2000 ford explorer which didn't start... I put a new fuel filter, spark plugs and air filter in it...still not starting ...gonna do a a compression test tomm. and see if it the timing chains or tensioners... Sounds like its misfiring actually, it doesn't start with starting fluid sprayed in it....where is the ignition pickup located on these things? I still need to put a new ignition coil and wires on it. plugs were in horrendous shape and i thought that was the problem.
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I have a 2000 4.0 Explorer that sometimes will not start. It has happened on cool mornings as well as hot days after I shut it off, for example, shutting it off to fuel up. I always turn the key to the on position and wait a second or two before cranking, and when I do that, I can usually hear the fuel pump. It's when I don't hear the fuel pump that I know it won't start, and sure enough, crank and no start. My question is, is the fuel pump going out? Or another thought I had was maybe the inertia switch starting to fail? It runs great when it starts, just has a problem starting sometimes.
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2000 explorer XLT, 4.0L, OHV (VIN "X")---sitting for 15 months, engine turns over but no start unless 10 cc's of gasoline into intake manifold, then runs for 4-5 seconds. Fuel pressure of 5-6 PSI at fuel rail AFTER replaced fuel pump assembly and fuel filter. I can hear fuel pump come on for about a second with key on. Doubel checked fuses and relays for fuel pump and PCM, then again checked that engine would run briefly with gas squirted into intake manifold. Questions:
1) Could fuel lines be clogged after sitting for over a year?
2) Area driver's side next to spare tire, underneath jack storage, where return fuel lines are clustered (nuts are rusted and need to be sawed off)---some type of fuel regulator here? I thought fuel pressure regulator was on fuel pump assembly.
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My 2000 Explorer overheated and I had water pump and intake manifold replaced.. then it had a freeze plug rust out and its replaced, I'm holding water.. but now it just wont start.. we've tried everything from changing fuel injectors, fuel delivery unit on intake, now the fuel pump is changed.. still wont start and the theft light is flashing fast.. my dad changed computers while I was out of town,, is it the theft device or does the computer need coded for this explorer?? we have taken negative off battery but nothing.. And if I change the motor will that work or still not run because of theft light or computer??
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My 2000 Ford Explorer O/D off light starts flashing after driving it after 3-8 miles from starting out. After shutting it off, it resets itself. It seems to stick between 2nd and 3rd (automatic trans) because I get a surge on my RPMs. I took it to two places, spent $200.00 and the problem remains. The tranny shop actually changed a "range sensor" and thought it was fixed. Nope - O/D off started flashing before I even got back home. I've been looking on the internet and it seems that alot of explorer owners have been having the same types of problems. The shops I have talked to have no idea other than rebuild my transmission. It only has 46,000 miles on it! It seems to me that the overdrive is not kicking in when needed and the light comes on.
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I have a 2000 Explorer W/4.0 SOHC engine. With summer nearly over and fall on the way, I need to figure out what is going on with my engine. This problem has been going on for the past 2 years. As the outdoor temperatures get cooler, the harder it is to start and keep the engine running. This starts happening around 65 ambient temperature, and gets worse as the temps drop. By 30, I can barely keep the engine running.
Odd thing is, all I have to do if the engine starts is, keep my foot on the pedal to keep the engine around 2000RPM, put it in gear and start driving. After about a mile or two, the engine runs normally, and will do so the rest of the day. So far I have cleaned the air flow sensor, replaced the IAC, replaced all the injector "O" rings, and cussed a lot. I smoke tested the engine and the only vacuum leak is a very small one at the EGR valve.
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I have a 2000 ford taurus V6. It sputters going up hills and at stop lights. I've serviced the motor and fixed two cracked vacuum hoses. No engine lights are on. Not sure what to do next....
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I have a 2000 f150, the overdrive light flashes on the swifter, the motor has no power and sputters unless I put it in second gear. It won't shift gears in drive.
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I just bought this truck for a pretty good price it has 225000 on it the engine was over heating. The guy put new rad, new water pump, new fan clutch, and a new heater core with thermostat. The truck still over heated so I pulled the thermostat to see what happens and the truck over heats even faster. All this happens while driving regardless of ac on or off. I got a motor and put a motor in it with all new pump and thermostat. I put new coolant in and flush radiator. I cut a hole in the cat to see if the cat was plugged for the truck seems to have low power and sputters. With in 1mile the truck over heated dumping all the coolant out of the system which the truck did as well before. Will the diesel rad work in this truck I have a diesel one I can put in since its a bigger rad?
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What is causing the engine to sound like it's not getting enough gas AFTER we turn off the A/C? The two times we have used the A/C, after we push the button to turn it off, the engine sputters like it is going to die ... sounds like it is not getting enough gas. It has over 178,000 miles on it and it sat for about three years before it was given to us.
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I own a hyundai accent 2000 GLS, i have recently replaced the ECM wiring and a brand new ignition coil, however the engine still sputters when i try to accelerate in higher gears, my mechanic told me that the engine mounting bushes need replacement. is it one of the causes? the sparks plugs are new, fuel pump is working fine.
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I have been picking at an engine vibration for more than a year.
I have a '00 Explorer 302 V8 installed in an '82 Volvo. This engine/transmission has not been abused and only has 15k miles since it left the Ford factory. It was found intact on a pallet in dry storage. Everything was there as from Ford from the fan to the transmission output bushing. There is an engine vibration beginning about 2000 rpm in PARK so the problem is not in the transmission or drive shaft.
Perfectly smooth at idle and until you approach the start of the vibration.
Replaced the viscous clutch mechanical fan with duel electric so it isn't an out of balance fan.
Pulled the serpentine belt this afternoon and still have the vibration. Might have been a little less and I did find a idler pulley that had a little rattle but the big vibration is still there with only the harmonic balancer through torque converter rotating.
Replaced the pulley. Nothing else changed from when Ford built it.
No OBD codes.
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My truck's been having an occasional hard start, meaning the engine cranks strong but it fails to catch and then sputters. The 2nd start attempt usually fires up with no issues and then runs perfectly otherwise.
MPG's haven't changed, fuel filter was changed 15K ago. Air filter is clean. Plugs were changed about 10K ago. I always use Shell/Chevron gas. MAF sensor looked clean when I took it out so I didn't do anything to it.
This is starting to happen more frequently, maybe once every few weeks and I get a feeling it's the start of something. I've found myself waiting a few seconds for the fuel pressure gauge to come up before turning the key to start reliably. In the past, I could simply flick the key and it fires up the first time.
I see posts talking about the fuel pump module above the spare tire. What are symptoms of that going bad? Any pending codes that might be stored?
I'm about to get myself a scanner since I need one sooner or later. Which specific PID's to check while debugging this?
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2001 F350 7.3 ... Below 35 degrees, truck is hard to start. Cranks for a while, sputters, dies. Repeat a couple times, finally starts running rough, surging and loping for 10-15 seconds before it settles down and runs smoothly. Recently had all glow plugs replaced. Next cold start didn't show much improvement (not as bad as sometimes, but wasn't very cold either).
Surfing here and other forums, I see suggestions about letting glow plugs heat longer after WTS light goes out. Some suggest as long as 60 seconds. In the past, I have tried waiting a little while longer after light goes out, or turning key off/on and letting it cycle again. But I've never really timed how long I was waiting.
We're having a warm spell right now, so I can't do much testing. But yesterday morning was about 30. I timed the WTS light and it went out after 10 seconds. I waited another 20 seconds.. about 30 seconds total. Starting seemed a little better than usual, and there was about 1 second of roughness before it settled down.
I need to do more cold weather testing to be sure, but it does seem like it might be better to wait longer than I have been.
On the other end of the scale, I saw a comment that glow plug cycle is dependent on oil temp, and they don't come on at all if oil temp is above 40. Is this correct? If so, is there any good reason to wait to start in warm weather? I'm usually pretty diligent about waiting for the light regardless of weather, but the truck doesn't seem to object if I get impatient and start it sooner in warm weather. If the glow plugs aren't even on, why wait?
Should I just totally ignore the light, and wait for some interval (or not at all) based on a semi-educated guess about how much glow plug time might be necessary for the current temp?
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I have a small problem that has been going on for about the last 6 months. It only appears once in a while, and only when I have parked facing uphill for longer than a day or so. Upon first start (cold) after sitting pointed uphill for a day or two, it starts real rough and sputters a bit. Then when I check codes, I always have a pending P0316 (misfire within the first 1000 revolutions) along with a P0306 or P0301. No dash lights or anything.
Since those two cylinders are at the front of the motor, could it be that the fuel is leaking back down the rail and leaving those two injectors dry? It isn't always both cylinders, sometimes one or the other. If this is the sign of something bigger on the horizon, I would like to have a heads up.
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