Ford - Explorer :: 2000 Truck Slows Down To 5 MPH While Stopping At A Light
Nov 23, 2011
2 parts to this problem, Just changed the brakes/rotors, drums, shoes all around again, but still have this problem.
1. While stopping at a light when the truck slows down to 5mph or so the petal seems to go soft and the abs kicks in and the truck seems to carry on another 5-10ft further. It slows down from hwy speeds normally but just when it comes down almost a complete stop the abs will kick on in very fast pulse and keeps rolling for a few more ft. Even on dry surfaces.
2. Sometimes on slippery surfaces (gravel roads/rain/snow) it seems like the rear brakes lock at low speeds when coming to a stop.
Just thinking of disconnecting the abs sensors to all wheels......
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Ok its a 96 explorer 4x4 and I just picked it up so I am learning all the things wrong as I go here. First off every now and then when the truck was almost to a stop the abs motor would kick in and make the abs noise. I checked the brakes and decided to change all 4 rotors and both sets of pads. I just push the fluid back up when I change pads instead of making a mess with bleeding and I am still getting the abs noise once in awhile. So could this be something wrong with the abs or should I sit there and bleed all 4? There is no lights on in the dash.
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New issue I've discovered , when stopping , the RPM's drop down to 500, truck acts like it wants to stall , then goes up to 750 RPM's . Then it's fine . Doesn't hesitate when accelerating . Idles slightly rough after start up , about 30 seconds . I've checked the air filter , cleaned the IAC and MAF. Fuel filter is only a year old . What I should check next ?
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After I've been driving a bit and stop at a red light, drive thru, etc. I've noticed a strong gas smell. I drive with my windows down so I really notice it. I've searched all over the car and can't see any leaking. In addition to this, after I shut the car off for 20-30 minutes, when I re-start it, it runs really rough like its flooded until it clears itself out, along with the gas smell. The consensus seemed to be that its the pressure regulator/vacuum line. Where exactly is that located?
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96 Ford Explorer, 78,000 miles After about an hour on the highway (60 mph), the vehicle slows and cannot increase in speed. It does this until it slows to less that 20 mph. Pushing on the accelerator increases the rpm, but does not result in an increase in speed. It only does this after an hour or more on the highway (city driving does not cause the problem). No one can diagnose the problem; already took the vehicle to the dealership and a transmission specialist (both said nothing was wrong). Hoping very much to keep this vehicle.
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I have a 2001 F650 7 speed with 7.3l powerstroke and I am pulling a 15,000 pound fifth wheel. It is very new to me and just doesn't seem to have the pulling power. It seems to struggle even on flat going 65mph and when it comes to hills it really slows down. Should I be looking into power chips? If so, which one? Is there something else that may be preventing the full power?
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My 2000 300M has 135k miles on her. With the a/c on when I come up to a traffic light and stop, it feels like i have to press harder then normal to keep the car stopped at the light. the other night at a light I put the car in nuetrel and the engine rpm went from 700 rpm to 1500 and up to 2000 rpm. There is no check engine light at this time. the car does not to this when the a/c is off. I have not scanned the car yet.
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I have a starting issue with our older Explorer.
Vehicle: 1998 4.0 SOHC
Owned for 6+ years, no major issues to date.
225K miles, well maintained.
Problem: Vehicle will start fine on first start of day, or any other time after being parked for enough time to cool off like it is in the AM. Example, drove for about an hour and stopped for a hamburger. In restaurant for about 15-20 minutes go outside to vehicle, no start. let sit for about another 20 or so minutes and starts fine. Runs good, NO code given, ever. Has happened multiple times. Fuel is present in fuel rail as I poked Schrader valve in fuel rail and gas is present and with very good pressure. My guess seeing NO check engine light ever is something ECM or ignition coil related?
Haven't tried to troubleshoot yet. Any initial common problem concerning no start with warm engine?
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I have a 2000 Buick Century that only has 70000 miles on it. I have an issue that when I drive the car for a while, the transmission will shift hard after stopping at a light or stop sign. It only does it through the first three gears. If I shut the car off and let it sit for a few minutes and start it back up, it shifts fine through all of the gears. I have not had the change to change the fluid and filter yet. The fluid looks clean and is always full. I have read that there has been a common problem with a pressure control solenoid in the transmission needing replaced to correct the hard shifting. I am not getting any kind of error codes from the PCM, so I am not sure.
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I have recently purchased a 1999 F150 with a v-6, standard transmission (5 speed). Previous owner said he had just replaced the clutch. Here is the problem, after the truck has been running a while and after stopping the truck will not shift into gear. It does not grind or make any noise, it just won't go into any gear. The only solution is to shut the engine off, place it in gear and restart the engine. During normal travel the transmission shifts up and down without any problems. The clutch does have a slave cylinder.
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So after getting home last night and having a lot of trouble backing into the driveway, having a serious loss of power, I take it out today and find that the truck is rocking from side to side as I drive, a bit like a boat in rough water. Further, I wasn't able to get much power out of it, capping about 20mph/30kph. Reversing produced some ugly grinding or scraping noises. The steering wheel swung very quickly back to its neutral position after turning, and I've noticed a strip on the road near the driveway where I apparently spun one of the tires trying to back in. Some quick searching says it could be a wheel bearing, an axle problem or suspension-related.
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I had heard clunking when hard accelerating or hard stopping my 2003 Explorer, also heard it from Park to Reverse/Drive. I suspected u-joints, was correct, those were replaced.
After I received my car back I noticed the clunk was louder when hard accelerating or hard stopping; again from Park to Reverse/Drive. I suspected rear differential. I called my mechanic who said they noticed some play in the rear end - a little loose, that the noise would be noticeable...but that if it were him he wouldn't worry about it. He said the drive shaft was tight, that I wasn't in danger of it falling out, etc.
These are the only symptoms I have that something is wrong with the SUV. Just that clunk. If I come off slow from a stop and not hit the gas, there is no clunk. If I do not hard stop, again I can avoid the clunk. The vehicle does not vibrate or make noise on the freeway, shifts well between gears.
I was going to have my mechanic open the rear end up and see what needed to be replaced when the cold weather brakes. In the meantime, is there anything I need to be keeping an eye on, or something else I should check? My mechanic said the checked it over and couldn't find any other problems. I just want to be prepared for expenses.
It's a 2W, not 4WD. I had all the fluids done, a drain and refill on rear. Not sure if that's important to know or not.
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2003 ford explorer 4.6L. This truck will start and run rough high temp low oil light come on and temp gauge is pegged hot. Oil gauge is fine though, checked oil its fine.
I checked coolant reservoir its ok.
If I shut truck off and restart it will run ok and rev like normal and then all of a sudden go into limp mode and will misfire etc...
What sensor seems to be the main culprit?cht sensor???
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I have a 2000 Explorer Limited. The ARC-light comes on after a few minutes of driving and I don't hear any sound from the pump. Where to start troubleshooting?
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It was ok when the car starts from stop after green light. It will shows a hesitation and a jerk/clunk sound after it slows down below 20 mph and comes up over 20 mph again. it is ok for other speed. the fluid is ok and no leaks and no engine light. no burning and crazy smell.
A couple of months ago it starts the slipping at 20 mph part when it is cold and it is shifting ok for other speed. I am in CA bay area and it is better during hot days or warm noon period.
Right now I am opening up the trans for a rebuild. I notice all valves free movement, spring, filter and clutches all look good. I do not know what to look now.
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I'm struggling with an intermittent (of course) issue where, esp. if cold, I can't start my car unless I give it lots of gas. If I take my foot off the gas at all, it will stall, which means I drive this automatic two-footed (one foot on brake, one on gas) , giving it lots of gas at all times, including when stopped. After about 10 minutes it is fine, and is then good for the rest of the day. My trusted Volvo-spscific repair shop has tried replacing booster pressure sensor, fuel pressure regulator (both indicated by engine codes) and new plugs. The end result is I've got $500 into the car that does seem to run better when it starts, but the original issue is unsolved. I was thinking something is sticking with a cold start, or idle speed is incorrect, but can't figure it out. Seems like it should be an easy fix.
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I have a 2000 Explorer Sport. Sometimes when I start it the "Theft" light stays on. If I kill the engine and restart the light goes out.
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Was driving on the highway and all of a sudden my mph gauge just drops and my car slows down. This is the first time it happened and it didn't do it again after I got off the highway. Other things it has been doing: eating gas, shifting hard, and doesn't want to get up to speed. Not sure if they are related to this new problem or not.
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Recently purchased 2006 F-550. Noticed the brakes seemed a bit squishy and weren't stopping the truck as well as I thought they might. Looked under the car and saw this at the right rear tire. Give it to me straight, doc.
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My 2000 Explorer overheated and I had water pump and intake manifold replaced.. then it had a freeze plug rust out and its replaced, I'm holding water.. but now it just wont start.. we've tried everything from changing fuel injectors, fuel delivery unit on intake, now the fuel pump is changed.. still wont start and the theft light is flashing fast.. my dad changed computers while I was out of town,, is it the theft device or does the computer need coded for this explorer?? we have taken negative off battery but nothing.. And if I change the motor will that work or still not run because of theft light or computer??
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A year ago, I was driving down the highway ,gas low,and it just died. Half hour later stasrts right up. No problem since then until 2 months ago. It's died 4 times in last 2 months regardless of how much gas in tank. Just stops out of blue when coming to stop signs. Half hour or so will start right back up with no problem.
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