Ford - Explorer :: 2000 - Trans Stuck In 1st - Small Vacuum Leaks?
Aug 28, 2012
My parents 2000 Explorer is having issues...It started with check engine light...came back to Oxygen sensors...Replaced all 4....light came back...still a couple of same codes...P1151 and P0153...smoked the intake with Evap Leak Detector...have several small vacuum leaks...little at EGR (No EGR codes)...little at TPS (No TPS Codes)...Little at throttle shafts...and some coming from what looks like underneath throttle body....none of these are as much of a concern as the next thing....NOW the trans will not shift out of 1st...unless you manually shift it from Drive to 2nd...then no other gears...Reverse works fine.....
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I'm having a little bit of trouble finding the cause of a minor problem on my 06 Explorer with the 4.0 V6 engine. When the engine is running cold at idle, it runs a bit rough and idle speed is high as well. When fully warm, the engine runs and idles fine. I hooked up a scan tool and there are no pending or stored codes. The live data looks ok except the long term fuel trim which is at about +10% on both banks during idle, indicating a lean condition. Short term fuel is right around zero. The MAF and TPS values seem to respond fine when applying steady throttle.
So I assume there must be a fairly small vacuum leak somewhere that the PCM is able to compensate for since the long term is only at 10. I didn't see anything obviously wrong, the vacuum lines look fine along the passenger side near the firewall. I sprayed a bit of throttle cleaner along the hoses, intake manifold and gasket area, but could not spot any vacuum leaks. Any other common areas to check for leaks on the 4.0 V6? Perhaps there is something I am missing?
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I purchased my first truck 2 weeks ago private sale a 2001 Explorer Sport Trac 4v4 4.0L. I noticed it had small leaks coming from transmission and front differential gaskets (the diff is silicone) but the oil levels remain fine. Within days I heard a loud hum coming from the engine for 10 seconds then immediately after i was slowing down for a speed bump and my truck tried to stall and since that point it was riding very rough at low speed/idle and sometimes giving it gas seemed to just kill it. Next day a check engine light comes on and I get it checked It was Bank 1 running lean and B1155 (Output shaft speed signal) which concerned me from what I found it is located by the transmission oil filter which has the leak.
A few more days later I broke down on the side of the road, the alternator had died and killed the battery, I replaced the alternator and belt, replaced the 6 spark plugs, 3 of which i removed way to easily with my hands and all 6 had an incorrect gap. Initially the car was still rough but now with the new plugs it is drivable but still a little weird on startup and idle and a little bit of the shakes around 60-65mph and seems to be over actively shifting soon as i let off the gas even a little bit. Today I had the check engine light assessed again, now Bank 1 and Bank 2 are lean, still have the B1155 as well as a new C1676 (Battery pack voltage out of range) which light research said it could be ABS module or it could be a false code from being jumped days prior and that code wont clear on its own.
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I got a 2000 ford explorer with 151k on it... Since iv had the truck (5yrs) its always had a slight slip around 3rd going to 4th. The tran is auto!!
I use to be able to jump in and take off but here lately i have to let the truck idl for a few sec or up to a min before i can take off (warm or cold). This just started a month ago...
The trans fluid smells burned and it has be 2yrs since iv changed fluid and filter in the tran...Everything other then that iv kept up to par. What do you think should i start looking for something new or just change filter and fluid????
I know the truck has had a good life so I am starting to think the tran maybe trying to go.... My friend has a 85 dodge ram charger suv not sure the miles but its auto as well....It has a 318. Other then a small dent the thing look good... It has some kinda vacuum leak major but doesn't effect running. He told me the leak is from something he had removed when we left CA that they said he had to have for smog?
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So my accent with a manual trans has a small leak at the slave cylinder for the clutch. I am driving home and it's shifting hard. I get home pull up to where I live and push In the clutch and the car feels like the clutch is not pushed in. RPMs drop and car stalled. Look under hood and see not fluid in clutch master cylinder. Fill with fluid and pump pedal. I get some pedal back but the car will not crank. Nothing. I have accidentally cranked car when in gear in the past and there did not seem to be a safety switch as the car would move if my foot was not on brakes.
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Question. I have never used propane to find vacuum leaks. I always use starter fluid. I understand propane is better but how nuch do you use? Low volume, or a lot of propane. I just don't want to kill myself.
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I've had a 0401 code on my truck for the last two years. I've replaced the EGR valve and the dpfe sensor a couple of times, with fomoco parts. Ive also cleaned out the egr tube that comes off the exhaust manifold. In this time I also discovered a couple of vacuum leaks and replaced those. I changed the pcv valve, tried running 93 octane gas, and had a mechanic friend run a special smoke through the vacuum lines to find more leaks. Also put a brand new gas cap. I have an obd computer and cleared the code repeatedly but the light always returns.
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How and where to check? This probably has been covered a million times.
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my 2000 Subaru Outback Manual Transmission is stuck in neutral. I thought it might be the clutch so I pulled it out of the car and checked the clutch linkage etc. With the transmission fully removed from the car the shift lever does not move at all. My question is, if the transmission is fully removed from the engine should the shift lever function?
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Question about my dads 2000 explorer with the 4.0, he just noticed it was leaking oil heavily. Added 2quarts and drove it home. I looked under it and the oil is dripping very steadily from what appears to be the inspection plate area where engine meets trans. Have y'all ever seen a rear main seal fall out or cause a leak this heavy? I know we will have to clean it and re check but this is all I have seen at this point. Is there any other seal or issue that could cause this from inside the bell housing area or nearby?
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I switched to red ELC back in September , bought a billet thermostat housing , and did the "dual alternator " upper hose. now i seem to be getting small leaks around my hose connections and thermostat housing. I don't have any pics yet but I'll get some. It looks like it barley leaked. Then dried up
I re tightened everything again but no difference. My coolant level hasn't dropped or Anything that's why I haven't been too concerned. Here's when it first started happening
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What are some common mk4 r32 vacuum leaks. And yes I did search. Im checking my car for any leaks that vagcom would potentially not detect.
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Long story short, I have a small vacuum leak in the 4wd system. I disconnected the lines going to the hubs to prevent grinding them to pieces as they are brand new. This, of course lock the front hubs in and disengages the X-fer case in 2wd.
It is not engaging in 4wd unless I select it, so I don't imagine it hurting anything in the X-fer case or anything. Other than the extra rolling mass, is this okay to operate at until I resolve my vacuum issue, provided I close all openings and places for trash to get in?
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Searched several times over the winter. Finally tore each hose out one at a time and went carefully over it before returning or replacing.
Turned out to be the long formed semi flexible vac. hose that runs from the gas fumes purge tank control valve group to the throttle body across the top of the engine. Ripped it out, on one of the bends was a small crack all the way thru, apparently would open up wide when stressed and cause problems. Mainly on hill pulls or hard acceleration but not every time. NO hair left after this one.
Replaced, deleted the codes. Runs like a top.
Still amazed at how much power these 4.0L V6 OHV Fords have from low speed on an uphill on ramp drag race.
stirs the old hot rodder blood.
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A friend of mine today told me a good way to find vaccum leaks with starter fluid. Lightly spray it over the vacuum lines on an idling engine until the idle speeds up. Where you were spraying when it sped up is where the leak is. Be careful as it is very flammable. [IMG] [URL] .....
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Bought a MkIV for the fiancee 2 weeks ago (04.5 GLI 1.8T Automatic).. Great driving car, needs some minor love (really dirty, burnt out lights, etc)
After the first week, the coolant light came on
Had some G12 handy, topped it off (like 8-10 oz)
All good
2 days later, it came on again, added about the same amount
4 days later, it came on again, added the same amount
1 day later, it came on again, added the same amount
I am adding 50/50 mix, but haven't seen a puddle anywhere, Nothing looks wet, but then again its hard to see around the plastic cover ...
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a co-worker brought over a 2000 chevy S-10 v6 automatic 4x4 with a leaking/broken dipstick tube. he bought the new tube/gasket & 6 quarts of auto fluid, and i told him to get a trans filter & gasket since I may need to remove the pan to get the old end of the dipstick tube out.
I was able to get it all out, and get the new tube in fishing it around the rear of the block for a few minutes. I got everything all seated up the tube had to be tapped in with a rubber mallet from the topside.
I checked the tube & seemed to have a nice seal. I replaced the mount bolt, put the filter & pan back on. filled it up & started up the truck.. rowed through the gears. seemed just fine until I looked under the truck. Almost all the ATF I had put in, on the floor.
I attempted to pull the tube & tried to put a little red RTV on the sealing grommet, on the outside & inside. I cleaned the tube & all other surfaces. same results...
how to adapt the tube to a compression fitting that bolts in to the trans .750 hole...
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I know all about vacuum leaks and such causing this problem, and I tend to think that is my problem. But isn't the temp change dial also vacuum controlled (in my case of an 06 f250 6.0) by that valve near the oil fill tube on the passenger side? I ask because, while I am stuck on defrost i can change the temp of the air that comes out still, telling me there is enough vacuum in the system to at least control that.
I also know everyone talks about checking the ESOF system for cracked lines/leaks, but this shouldn't come in to play unless I have 4WD selected or if the EFOF solenoid is bad, right? I just got done tearing the top end of this engine apart, twice, for oil temp problems and am about done working on this POS!!!
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Ok, I have capped off the vacuum lines to the front hubs and replaced the vacuum solenoid on the passenger inner fender. Still stuck on defrost. I know there are several options from this point what would be the next step after what I have just recently done. Going away on a ski trip and would like to have it working properly before I go.
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Recently my 2013 Hyundai Elantra was subject to a hit and run. It is a new car with less than 2000 miles on it since October 2013. There was 9K in damage, most of which pertained to the back driver's side and the axle. Bumper, quarter panel, trunk floor, axle, wheel bearings, and two rims had to be replaced. Plus incidentals like tail lights and such. Because this is a new car, I received all new parts as a replacement. When the car was returned to me, the back seat kept getting wet in the rain.
After taking back to the shop twice, they finally diagnosed a small hole in the seal in a seam of the quarter panel area---something must have happened when putting everything back together. The door is fine and there is no moon / sun roof on the vehicle. I do not completely understand what this means. I know some basics about cars, but not to this level of detail. I searched by topic area and couldn't find anything that was related to this type of reason for water in the car.
Have the following questions: How a small hole in a quarter panel area would cause water to get into the back seat (on seat and floor)? What would be good things to watch out for post-fix? It is still a bit damp and rainy here, so I can't open the windows for things to dry out. Would have been nice for the collision center to dry the seats. How can I make sure mold/mildew won't develop?
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I have a 94 ford explorer and the back hatch leaks every time it pours rain. I noticed on the drivers side that there is a gap on the side of the hatch. Is there a way to adjust the hatch? The other side is fine.
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