Ford - Explorer :: 2000 - Torque Converter Lockup Function Started To Drop Out
Jan 22, 2017
2000 Explorer 4.0 dohc avd. 150k miles. The torque converter lock-up function has started to drop out. It can happen after some miles and will light a warning light in the dash that the manual states as "contact tech" or something like that. Everything gets back to normal with just a "blip" to "off-position for the ignition switch and might stay normal for all between 5 minutes to several hours. Seems to me it is an electrical issue. Dirt, sensors?
Runs and shifts fine other than this. Only thing I have noticed is that the temp gauge reads pretty low but I think this started earlier and I understand that the temp gauge has its own sensor. Where to start looking?
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Have a 2004 hyundai accent and I think I am having problems with the torque converter locking up in a timely fashion. It typically takes 15 to 20 minutes when I am driving on the highway. Is this normal for it to take that long? My gas mileage is terrible (22 mpg last fillup) and I am thinking its related to this.
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So I have installed a 331 stroker with an AOD trans in an early Bronco.
The question is... What is the correct procedure for getting the lock up converter to function? How does it need to be wired?
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Anything besides a worn out Torque Converter clutch that might cause the incredible amount of shaking when the transmission tries to lock the TC?
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Looking for the fuse that controls the overdrive torque converter clutch/lock up/engagement. Had a look in the owner's manual, didn't find anything. Pulled a couple fuses that I thought might be the one, no go.
I had found this fuse b4 but now a couple years later can't remember which one it is and can't remember where I found the info on what # the fuse was.
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When running up through the gears under normal acceleration I can feel almost a double shift in 5th gear. It doesn't occur using tow/haul so I assume it is the TC locking up. Everything else seems fine. Truck has 9k miles, mostly towing. 2016 6.2 ....
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I drive a 1997 Ford Explorer XLT 4X4 with 180,000 miles. A couple months ago my O/D light started flashing. When ever the code flashed i would pull over and I would take the negative cable off to get the codes to clear. While driving it, it would shift normally in till i go to about 40 mph. Then the light would come on and the torque converter would refuse to lock up. I would be in 4th gear at high rpms and when i came to a stop there would be a hard 2-1 shift. I tried solving this by changing the fluid and filter twice. I also replaced the valve body gasket and tcc solenoid. This solved nothing and it continued to do the same thing as before.
I then took it to 2 shops. One told me they go the code for the torque converter and that i would need to replace the whole tranny. The next place told me some internal pump was failing and that a rebuild was recommended. After this I continued to drive it knowing there was no point in trying to save the original tranny. My dads best friend owns a shop about an hour away and said he would replace it with a used one for free. All i had to do is pay for parts. Then one day while driving the transmission blew up and i lost all my gears. Then it was taken to my dads best friends shop. While it was there he replaced it with a used one along with a couple other parts like the starter.
After the used tranny was put in the same problems still kept happening. They tried clearing the code having no luck. I eventually picked it up my self and took it back home to deal with. I can now get the torque converter to lock up but it doesn't want to till I am going over 50mph and at high rpms. The light still comes on when i get to about 40 mphs. I tried clearing the PCM and that fixed nothing. Then i tried replacing the thermostat( It was bad anyways) thinking that the thermostat was not sending the right info to the pcm to make the torque converter lock. Now im completely stuck. What could be causing the problem. I know there are a ton of external sensors that control the torque converter lock up.
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I have a f150 2002 with a 5.4 and 4r100 (yes im sure), and a week ago my torque converter started getting stock (locked) when i came to a stop making the engine stall (it took a couple of minutes before my engine got warmed up). I checked the codes and got 0740 and 0743 which relate to the tcc solenoid malfunctioning. To make sure the tc wasn't physically stuck y cut the purple wire that signals the solenoid to lock the converter, the truck ran fine and as expected the tcc never locked.
So I thought I narrowed it down to the solenoid pack, which I bought (300 bucks ouch) and changed it yesterday. Today again the same thing started happening and the truck is throwing me the same codes, so I am a bit frustrated. I don't wanna go ahead and buy a torque converter without knowing the real cause, what could it be? I didn't see any melted wires down there but could my long tubes be shorting that wire out randomly in an unseen place? or could my tc be bad?
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Girlfriend got a 98 ex. got a CEL for a torque converter clutch circuit. Changed out the TCC and the light is still on. I don't know what to do next.
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Had the torque converter replaced twice on my 2007 Explorer Limited last December. Ford dealer did it once and then there were still issues so they had to replace it again. All seemed fishy to me.
Now a new issue that sounds like driving over rumble strips. Torque converter?
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I have a 2004 Explorer 4.0L with 190,000 miles. My wife was driving it and the vehicle stopped moving. Sounds like the torque converter whining and will not drive in any gear or 4wd.
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I was driving my 7.3 down the road and it started acting like the trans was slipping, it revved up and tried kicking down a couple times and when I slowed down and went to speed back up it just had no power coming through the trans to the wheels it just revved. I put it in neutral and it idled up for about 5 seconds. I put it in park n shut it down. I fired it back up after looking everything over and it moved about half mile down the road and no power to the wheels again. The trans is full of fluid, is there a sensor that could of went bad or just the torque converter or the entire thing shot? Only owned my truck 6 months has a trans and motor swap already from previous owner. 180k on current motor n Trans. 382k on my truck. t6 4" turbo back banks exhaust only mods I know of.
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I recently purchased this truck so I don't have any history on it. It's the V10 motor, automatic, 4 wheel drive, with a crew cab. I took it to Advance Auto to have them read codes and it came back with torque converter solenoid fault and 2 other codes related to that part. I didn't get to see the actual code numbers.
I've talked to 2 transmission shops and they said they could throw a solenoid pack into it, but that it might not even fix it. The truck drives fine, shifts fine, the tranny oil looks and smells fine, so I'm tempted to not worry about it until something else happens.
The truck has 217,000 miles on it...
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My torque converter is on the way out so I need to look for a new one. I'm pretty new at the transmission thing but I was told by my indy that my torque converter is on the way out. My problem is that I can't find the part number for my torque converter. I have a 2000 1.8t tip ATW.
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So here I am driving away for the fuel station and then the tranny tries to shift and I hear and feel a loud clunk followed by no power. I have had no previous issues with the tranny but I believe it has not had any previous work done. The truck is an 02 7.3L with 200500 miles. I am guessing the torque converter is the culprit it still had very little forward motion when I tried to move the truck didn't matter what gear I was in. I intend to have the tranny beefed up but don't intend to go crazy. I do tow an 11,000 lbs TT on a fairly regular basis and have a PHP 6 position switch which can be set for as much as 120 hp from stock but don't do any hot rodding. I am mostly just looking to beef it up and provide as much strength towing.
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I highjacked another thread yesterday but didn't get many responses so I thought I would start a new one... I've done some searching here but no one had any real answers or had a different reason for the vibration...
We have a stock '05 F150 with 24k mi that is having Vibrations not related to bad tires or a bad trailer. It rattles any cups or change that is in the center console area and the dashboard. It seems to come up through the floor.
Symptoms timeline:
The rear pops when you turn tight in a parking lot. I've been told this is normal because of the ratcheting LSD? Is this true?
The tranny fluid was low and we could not find where it was going. Put several qts in it and finally took it to the dealer where they replaced the bad seal between the transmission and transfer case. So we know they took the driveshaft out and the transfer case. Not sure if they dropped the transmission out.
We have a vibration from about 40mph-55mph under medium-full throttle. A lot worse when towing. Put it in neutral and it goes away. Rev the motor and you don't feel it. Only happens under load. Happens in 3 and 4th gear. Goes away once the torque converter locks up.
Am I going down the right path in saying it's a bad torque converter?
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My wife's 2004 Ford Taurus has been acting up. It shudders sometimes at stoplights and also while driving sometimes. The auto parts store plugged in the computer and said it was the torque converter not working properly. We took it to "The Answer" in Evansville, Indiana for their advertised free diagnosis. They checked it out and told us basically the same thing. The torque converter was acting up. (Slipping? Catching? I don't remember the exact details...)
They said the remedy would be a big expensive job (install rebuilt transmission? Replace torque converter?). Is there anything we can do to prolong the inevitable such as fluid, filter change...flush...additive? We are resigned to the fact that we will need to buy another vehicle but wonder if we should buy one now since the Taurus may only last another few weeks or can we put off buying another car because the Taurus may last another six to twelve or more months.
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My 94 e4od does a few things. It doesn't seem to engage positively all the time. It doesn't grab well in manual 1st, but does in D. I had the FIPL reset at the dealership and he said he never saw a FIPL needing to be set so far one way. Also it has overheated a few times. Either the TC doesn't lock up correctly or its just not all the way in gear (if thats possible) I changed the fluid but it did it again recently.
Also the speedometer is jumping around like a nut case, the abs light is on...sometimes, when I have the headlights on and put my right turn signal on it feels like the TC locks up. Oh, yeah the lights are all jacked up in the back. The left turn signal light also has a small amount of voltage when I put the headlamps on (my test light lights up dimly) I thought it might be the multi function switch so I removed that and cleaned the connections. Nothing changed but I dont think that was it. I have troubleshoot this all day and I don't have too much of a clue to whats going on.
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Need to diagnose:
- Truck idles a little rough sounds a little like " puff , puff ", when put in reverse - still sounds the same ( looping hesitation )
- When accelerating feels pretty good until about 40-45 then it starts to shake , shudder and loose power. Shakes and shudder pretty violently.
Did a full ATF fluid service - no improvement
Aside from that it does not seem to have any other shifting issues at all. Problem is intermittent. Throughout the day it may run fine, and then at another point in the day it runs like poop when hitting 45+.
Could it be a bad Ignition Coil Pack ? Car has ZERO codes appearing - would either TC or COP set one off ?
Here is a pic of the one COP that I found does have a crack on the top ( passenger side ) - not sure if that could cause the truck to act the way it does.
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I have a 97 F-150 Supercab XLT, 4X4, 4.6L W, 4r70W with electronic Overdrive, manual shift transfer case. I need to remove and replace the Torque Converter. My question is: Would it be easier to drop the transmission and transfer case or pull the engine loose and move it forward to get at the torque converter?
It is shifting in and out of overdrive to third, and then back into OD, and back into third erratically and for no apparent reason. It is also slipping intermittently in first from a dead stop and locking all at once, shifts hard then. When I first drive it the OD light does not flash and the OD off switch works, once it warms up good it starts shifting erratically and the OD off switch starts flashing, then the off switch does not work.
I did not get any codes returned on autozones little scanner and am taking it to the ford dealer for a full scan today to see if there might be any other damage or cause for this problem. The problems started when I blew a hose to the trans cooler in the radiator and lost fluid. I didn't notice the blown hose until it started slipping and pulled over, replaced the hose and fluid. Had problems ever since. I have cleaned the MAF sensor and replaced the ABS sensor in the differential so far.
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Been doing a lot of reading about shudder/vibration on the 2011+ F150's and it seems to all center around the two piece driveshaft found on the longer wheelbases and more during take-off than other times. I have an '11 5.0L 4x4/auto with the 145 wheelbase and the 1-piece aluminum driveshaft and am experiencing a shudder in 3rd gear primarily, most noticeable during light acceleration with medium load (like gently accelerating up a slight incline).
When this is occurring I can see the tach needle fluctuating just slightly (maybe 50-150rpms, just barely bouncing) but I have no check engine light and the only time I have take-off shudder is under hard acceleration which feels like axle hop (which isn't too rare on soft leaf springs with 360hp engines!).
Anyways, this 3rd gear shudder is very soft and nobody has noticed it that has rode in the truck with me, but it sure feels like the old AODE/4R70W trans would when the fluid was getting old and the TC started to shudder during "soft" lock. 5.0L? Certainly could be a miss, though power is good, mileage is great and no CEL is lit...
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