Ford - Explorer :: 2000 - Rear Passenger Wheel Locked Up
Sep 17, 2012
So my Explorer has been parked for over a year following a minor front-end collision. I went to move it yesterday only to find that the rear passenger wheel was locked up. It wouldn't move fw or backwards and it felt like the brakes were locked up. I took the wheel off and it appeared that the caliper wasn't releasing properly, so I pryed the pads away from the rotor and tried again but still couldn't move the vehicle. So I jacked both rear wheels off the ground and tried. The passenger wheel remained locked while the drivers side rear wheel would spin a bit one way and then back the other way. It is possible that the brake locked up again as I had to depress the brake in order to get it in gear, but am wondering if there is something else going on. Also... Seems the truck is stuck in 4x4 even though the selector switch in in 'auto' (my 4x4 switch choices are Auto, 4-Lo and 4-Hi). Is it correct that as soon as one of the wheels is off the ground that the vehicle goes into 4x4? If so then that makes sense.
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How do you remove the rear pass side wheel studs? I have knocked them loose but there isn't enough clearance to remove them. I have removed the parking brake shoes already. Does the hub have to be pulled to do this?
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I recently parked my 2001 Accent for the past year and now the rear passenger side wheel won't move. I'm assuming it has seized. I am trying to open the drum for the rear wheel but am not really sure how. The wheel is removed so is the Bolt locking the drum in place. Should it now just pull off? I have a read that it is possible the emergency break is whats causing it to seize up. How does one manually removing the parking break lock ?
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I'm buying a 2003 Ford Explorer, XLS Sport Utility 4D. She's got 150k miles on an automatic transmission (pretty sure this model only came in auto anyhow).I'm mostly concerned about the rear axle, as the title prompted. The rear wheel seems awfully close to the front of the wheel well. Is this normal? I google searched some images of this model and seems to be the norm in some cases, and in other cases not.
Attached is a photo of the concerning placement. Is the rear axle bent? Is this suggesting that the rear end is on it's way to crapping itself?
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We have a 2005 Avalon. The rear passenger door appeared to "stick occasionally, trouble opening or closing. Now the door is closed and we cannot open it. It seems like it is locked. Since it is not open, it appears that access to the door interior is very difficult.
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I have a 2007 santa fe and my rear passenger door is locked shut and i cant remove the door card to gain access to the lock ! i have tried the key fob and all the other doors lock and unlock fine !
The lock lever inside the car for the offending rear door flickers when you try and unlock the door with the fob but that is all .
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2000 Honda Accord - will go to put the key into the ignition, key slips right in, but will not turn. The steering wheel is locked. This has been happening intermittently for a few months with no improvement. Sometime it will take me 10-30 minutes of wiggling the key, turning the steering wheel, etc until the steering wheel unlocks and key turns in the ignition. My patience is wearing and I'm concerned that it will eventually get to the point where it won't turn at all! I've tried with an alternate key and same results.
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At least 3 times in the last 8 months of ownership I have shut the rear door on the passenger side and the car locked it's doors and armed the alarm.
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I have a 96 explorer 4x4 that i just bought and it has wheel shake. It also has a slight noise coming from pass front. So i jack it up and there is zero wheel play. I spin the wheel and it spins kinda freely until about 3/4 away around then it has some resistance to stop the wheel. Im thinking that could maybe a rotor a lil warped but not sure. Same wheel there are wires showing on the inside. Now i try the driver side and i cannot spin that wheel it has resistance all the time. So could this be hub or maybe just bad tire?
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My 2004 Accent is stuck in the "lock" position in the ignition, and the wheel is locked and barely turns in either direction. I know this is supposed to be an anti-theft feature and I've tried all of the solutions listed here...
Turning the wheel hard and soft in either direction while holding the brake all the way down and trying to turn the key. Putting the car in neutral and then park and trying the above Disconnecting the battery for a few minutes and trying the above Jacking the car up on one side to release the tension on the pin.
My question is can I remove the spring at the bottom of the locking pin by drilling a hole in the center of the plate? I've seen a few youtube videos of this done on BMW's. It will cost me $500 minimum to replace the ignition or steering column based on quotes I got.
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Just started noticing that whenever i turn right the passenger side front wheel vibrates. 2003 ford explorer xlt 4x4. i asked a friend and he said cv axle.
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I have a 2001 Ford Explorer Sport, and to remove the rear passenger window. The car is a two door, and the passenger windows are the smaller "flap" out style. I was able to remove the two torx screws on the hinge itself, but the glass portion is held in some sort of bracket, and I'm having trouble removing that.
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I can usually track these down, but this one is eluding me. It seems to be coming from the rear passenger side and really only bad when turning left or veering left at slow speeds.
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Just got a 2000 Explorer XLS and I can not open the rear doors from inside. Made sure child locks are off. Works fine from outside. Handle doesn't feel loose or anything. Power locks work fine.
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My 2000 Explorer has been having recently a very strange sound coming from the rear area, especially the rear right tire. You can hear a clicking sound from inside... its not a nut, bolt or anything stuck to the tires, its just a clicking sound that seems to come as the tire spins. Any known causes for this? Should I be extra worried?
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2000 Explorer: on the drivers side is what looks like a vent hose coming off the axle housing. Is it a vent and why??
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so i bit the bullet and got a 2001 Ford explorer sport. Not as old as i wanted and has 'way more power options than i wanted but I like her.
Weird thing: around the edges of the rear wheel humps/ bed liner, there's a fair amount of moisture build up on the metal on both sides, under the carpet (pulled the corners back), enough to make the padding damp. Used car guy said was "condensation" from the freaky weather we had had over the last several weeks (granted, it was unseasonably warm/cold changes and raging wind & rain). Had a mechanic look the car over before purchase, he said everything was great shape. But he'd never heard of this type of condensation although he said it wasn't outside the realm of possibility. The back rear windows are sealed and there's no evidence of a leak but he said might need to take it to a body shop and have them silicone around the windows and/or check the door seals.
The water doesn't seem to increase with rain, no damp tracks, and doesn't gather anywhere else that I've found but doesn't seem to dry either...no condensation on the inside of the windows when the truck is closed up.
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Got home from work last night, passengers side rear wheel was smoking, and damn hot to the touch. Drivers side rear was hot, but not as bad as passenger's side.
My first thought was worst case sceneries - wheel bearings. After getting it in the air, in neutral, I can turn the wheels, but, it takes a lot of effort. There's no grinding noises, but, it sounds like a brake is in constant contact.
I'm in the process of taking both wheels off, but, I'm leaning towards either the brakes/calipers or the ebrake dragging. It definitely smells like hot brakes, and not diff fluid.
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Child safety switches on both doors are NOT activated, and both doors open OK when exterior handle is pulled. Jiggling the child safety switches does not resolve the problem. Removed interior handles thinking that perhaps some plastic tab had broken off, but both appear ok. Pulling on the linkage bar that connects handle to latching mechanism inside the door does not open the door. Indeed, the linkage bar won't move despite tugging.
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My teenage son just bought his first car, a 1991 Ford Explorer XLT 2-wheel drive. I had it checked out by our mechanic before I let him shell out the money, and everything seemed OK. It's the prototypical low-mileage car (127k actual, confirmed by Carfax) owned by a little old man who took good care of it (stack of service records a foot high) and didn't drive it very much.
Earlier this week ... he'd driven it for about two weeks with no issues ... the left front brake caliper locked up on it, to the point where it heated up enormously, the pads and rotors got so hot they were discolored and some transmission fluid got blown out by the strain.
He took it to our regular mechanic, great guy who we've used for years and has worked magic with our cars, he got into it and he diagnosed the problem as ... I hope I'm explaining it right ... a little pin or piston or something in the caliper was upside down. He put it back in the right way, and everything seemed to be OK, although he said my son would probably end up needing a brake job sooner than later because of the way the pad got ground down.
FYI, master cylinder is full of fluid, our mechanic couldn't see any leaks anywhere. Although when we took the car to the mechanic, my son tried to back it up to get a better angle at getting into the service bay, and the pedal went to the floor.
Fast forward two days, and danged if the same thing didn't happen with the right front caliper, seized up although he didn't get it as hot as the other time, parked it a lot quicker. And of course it happens on Friday going into the weekend, when our mechanic isn't working, he won't be able to do anything until Monday, which leaves us scrambling trying to get everyone to work, etc., down one car.
Doing a little online homework ... which we probably should've done before my son made this purchase ... I'm seeing a lot of brake issues with '91 Explorers. I asked my mechanic if he thought there was some ABS-related problem here and he said he didn't think so.
I will say that the car apparently sat undriven for a long time, which I know can unleash a lot of issues. What might be going on here? Do we just need to go ahead and replace the calipers, any hoses, etc., as preventive maintenance?
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The chirping sound happens when I go over bumps but not all the time. If I take a short little ride to the store at low speeds it won't happen but as soon as I get driving in the city or on the highway it sounds like a bird on crack back there, really loud as I go over any type of bumps. I searched and learned that it could be the wheel rubbing the caliper but its not that. There is nothing leaking back there and no visible signs of damage or wear. Brakes have plenty of pad left and rotor is good, i check the tire well also and everything is tight.
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