Ford - Explorer :: 2000 - Number 1 Spark Plug Not Firing
May 17, 2016
Ford Explorer Sport 2000, Number 1 spark plug has miss firing already replaced spark plugs wires and coil pack what more can i do to get spark from number 1 to spark and took garden hose to listen to injectors clicking when running. any other part for spark.
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I used to have a 1999 Mercury Mountaineer 5.0. Loved the truck but sold it because I didn't have a place to store it.
So I bought a 2000 E.B. Explorer! I love it thus far, I was doing a tune-up and now I hate it. I was changing the spark plugs and one of the spark plugs had a lot of rust around it. As I was chipping the rust away so I could get a socket around it coolant started to come out right below the spark plug
I have attached pictures too.
I don't know what this could be. I have done my research, anything from the lower intake manifold gasket to a cracked head. Need info about this type of leak? its no where near any gaskets, I have a friend that says I could have hit a coolant chamber but I wasn't banging hard at all.
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My girlfriend has a 1998 Cheve Cavalier that recently on the way to work completly blow out the number 3 spark plug. It was completly gone and poofs of air now come out of it's place?
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2004 echo, 109,000 km. P0301 came up and upon investigation I discovered that my no.1 spark plug well was filled with what I believe to be coolant. The top of the valve cover (where the coil packs are seated) was bone dry. The oil, from what I can see on the dip stick looks ok - I intend to replace to investigate further. Coolant is low. Spark plug wells for cylinders 2 - 4 are ok.
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My 2002 Explorer is having a problem. It started running rough suddenly and when I had it checked the # 6 coil pack on the spark plug was bad. We replaced it and it still ran rough. Found fluid on top of spark plug. At first thought it was oil due to the color but later figured out it was antifreeze. We do have a cracked thermostat housing that we tried to seal up a few months ago. Doesn't seem to be coming from there. This is my only reliable transportation.
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2000 Excursion with the 5.4 in her. Lots of miles. Used only to tow a travel trailer. Blew out the #3 coil packet and spark plug today. Have to pull the head for sure. My question is why? Is there a more severe problem as to why it did this? Or is my old girl just worn out. 270,000 miles.
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I bought a 2000 excursion a month ago and have already had 3 plugs blow out on me. They've been repaired professionally with time sert but the mechanic is starting to wonder if back pressure is building up causing this. He's suggesting to replace the catalytic converter as it's original and has 120,000 miles on it. He's made it clear that he doesn't know if this is the cause but to lose 3 in a month worries him. Is there anything else I can do?
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I recently became the owner of a 2000 Ford Excursion V10 (limited) with lots of extras (5.5 inch lift, dual exhaust, 37 inch tires, a 2005 front end, etc).
The intent is to use the excursion as my winter driver, towing vehicle and people hauler (things my 2010 mustang is terrible at). Unfortunately, my 5th time ever driving it, I was pulling out of my driveway and accelerating when the engine blew a spark plug. Since I do not have the tools to install a helicoil, I have taken it to the local shop to get repaired.
I am now concerned about the remaining plugs, and the general reliability of the motor. It has ~200,000 miles on it, and multiple previous owners. I have no way of knowing what work was done on it in the past. I did check all of the fluids when I first got it to ensure they where still good, but are there any other common issues with these V10's that I should check? Can I do anything to prevent any further spark plug blow outs in the future?
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I have a 2001 f250 5.4 triton. My cb antenna hole leaked water in cab, soaked my fuse block. Horn goes on and off, radio turns on without key in ignition, truck only starts when key is on and I bridge solenoid, and number 4 coil is not firing. I have let truck dry out, fixed the leak. Everything is bad to normal except starting issue and coil issue.
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I bought a 2000 lincoln LS from my father-in-law knowing it had some issues. We were incorrectly told that it needed cam shaft sensors, but I had it checked out myself today.
4 (out of 8) cylinders are misfiring. He opened it up and saw that on the right bank 1 of the spark plug wells was filled with oil, and the other 3 the tubes are seeping. He also said 3 of the coils need replaced. Whoever had the car originally replaced 3 coils (they're 3 different part numbers on the coils they used).
I've been researching and the first suggestion is changing the valve cover gaskets and removing the oil to see what problems if any it eliminates.
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My dad was changing his plugs today (2000 passat 1.8t) and he found some oil down in the holes for the plugs on the front two cylinders (closest to the front of the car) and also on the plugs themselves, and needless to say hes a little concerned. he doesn't think there should be any there. headgasket?? He has 105k miles...
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2000 Jetta AEG ... An intermittent CEL light turned into a blinking CEL after a few months. Checked codes and it threw a P0303 (misfire on Cyl 3).
Pulled the plugs and found this:
There was oil dripping off of the plug from Cyl 3.
I last changed the plugs in July 2014 and only drove around 10k miles this past year.
When I changed them back then though Cly 3 looked like this:
Before I changed them back then I had an oil cooler gasket fail on the freeway and oil shot everywhere under my hood. Obviously oil is in there and it is causing problems.
I have read online and most of what I have read says that it's likely an issue with the VCG (Valve Cover Gasket) or the PCV (Pressure Control Valve) that is allowing oil to get to that part of the spark plug tube. I've also seen some non VW stuff talking about replacing the spark plug tubes.
Also it does appear that there is a little bit of oil around the threads of the other plugs but nothing getting to the all the way to the tip around the electrode.
I have pulled the plugs, wires and the ignition coil as well ... I'm ready for whatever. I am by no means a mechanic but I am capable of following instructions and doing what is needed. My problem is generally finding out what is needed to be fixed.
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Al right i have a 94 ranger 4.0 4x4 auto 186k ... The truck has new bosch double plat plugs gaped .054, new wires, MAF, TPS, FPR, O2 sensors, ECTS and I checked the intake air charge sensor and is fine ....
My issue is cylinders 4,5 and 6 dont fire... the coil is sending a spark, i can pull the plugs one at a time and watch them fire (strong blue spark)... All fuel injectors do not leak and spray a perfect cone out of all 4 holes and noid light test is good ...
The truck runs like crap back firing and no power under 4k and i can pull off all 3 wires for bank one and it make no difference and when i unplug the injectors no more back fire....
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I have a hyundai accent 2005 sedan (automatic transmission). The vehicle is a NON-US model. My gas consumption is approximately 7.3km per litre which is very high.
The spark plugs have been replaced , tires are at 30psi , and air filter is new. The spark plug cables are also new. The obdII device does not detect any issues and the engine check light is also off.
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I was having some problems and one of my friends told me to post up here before I went and saw my mechanic. So my car isn't starting (its a 06 r32). Now I've gone through a whole list of things and what I have worked out is that it is the spark plugs not firing (none of them are) although they are all brand new and were working not too long ago.
Battery is fine and fuses look good no warning symbols on the dash so I'm at a bit of a loss as to what it could be. Relays? Coils?
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I was driving along, and my loyal Loyale quit firing. I can crank the ignition, but the plugs are not receiving any spark. There is fuel hitting the chambers. . . Since there wasn't any spark at the plugs, I tried the distributor and rotor area. The D&R are both very new, and looking good. There isn't any power reaching the distributor cap/rotor. . . So I turned to the coil. I had a friend test with a multimeter, and we determined that the coil was receiving electricity, but was not sending any. So at this point, I'm under the impression that the coil is bad. I ordered a new coil from the local parts store, and dropped it in. No change in the above scenarios. The new coil has "USE WITH ELECTRONIC IGNITION" printed on it. I don't know a lot about vehicles, but I thought that the Distributor/Rotor system was a Mechanical Ignition system. Was I given the incorrect part? Is the new one defective? Is there somewhere else that I need to be focusing attention? Oh, we also checked the fuses. They're good as well. Also, the Timing belt is not broken.
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Been battling this for several months. Sometimes, the truck will crank but not fire. Several attempts, then apply gas pedal, eventually will start. I have read through and searched much of this forum. Let me start with this, every part I have replaced has been with Motorcraft parts. I have done the following:
1. Replaced IAC. Ports are very clean.
2. Replaced fuel pump & filter.
2. 5 Voltage at pump connector is good AND it lights a heavy bulb. Not losing voltage to pump.
3. Replaced MAF sensor. This changed it. Stopped doing the no start for about one month. Then began doing it again.
4. Replaced MAF connector, soldered in a motorcraft connector. Good for 3 days.
5. Have checked connector pin tension and condition at crank sense. Good.
6. No codes.
7. Always shows RPM on scan tool while condition is present.
8. Once it starts, it never dies, not rich, not lean. Fuel trims are great and runs mint.
9. Technician is now in loony bin.
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I have added the upfitter switches to my FX4 but used all of the switches for accessories. Need to start using the round buttons but don't know the plug number/pigtail for round buttons.
What the plug number/pigtail is for the "off road/hill decent" round buttons on the raptor upfitter console? I don't want to spend money for the harness when I only need one connector. The tiny pins on the switch are too small.
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I'm doing standpipes and dummy plugs. There is a 4mm plug with an oring and mine was trashed. What is the P/N?
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I just drained 3 gallons of coffee colored goo from my wifes 02 mountaineer crank case. looking for a motor I am getting migraines because the salvage guys say there were alot of changes from year to year in the early 4.6L that are not interchangeable. decypher this BS. What is the simplest way to match up what I need? Vin Number? is there a code some where? or do I need to track down an exact replica of my wifes truck?
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I have a customer that has the 5.4 litre engine. The right bank is not firing at all. I have heard that they have a spark issue.
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