The other day I went to turn off my vehicle and it continued running even when key is in off position. I took the key out and it still continued running. I had to disconnect the battery and turn key in on position for vehicle to stall. I do not want to buy any unnecessary parts nor do I want to take apart any unnecessary.
View 3 RepliesThe other day I went to turn off my vehicle and it continued running even when key is in off position. I took the key out and it still continued running. I had to disconnect the battery and turn key in on position for vehicle to stall. I do not want to buy any unnecessary parts nor do I want to take apart any unnecessary components.
View 1 RepliesI have a 2000 Explorer W/4.0 SOHC engine. With summer nearly over and fall on the way, I need to figure out what is going on with my engine. This problem has been going on for the past 2 years. As the outdoor temperatures get cooler, the harder it is to start and keep the engine running. This starts happening around 65 ambient temperature, and gets worse as the temps drop. By 30, I can barely keep the engine running.
Odd thing is, all I have to do if the engine starts is, keep my foot on the pedal to keep the engine around 2000RPM, put it in gear and start driving. After about a mile or two, the engine runs normally, and will do so the rest of the day. So far I have cleaned the air flow sensor, replaced the IAC, replaced all the injector "O" rings, and cussed a lot. I smoke tested the engine and the only vacuum leak is a very small one at the EGR valve.
I am working on a 2007 F350 ambulance for a volunteer fire department. It run great, even with the key turned off sometimes. This is an intermittent problem. About every 10 times it is used the engine will not shut off when you turn the key off. The instrument cluster turns on and off as normal. The other odd part is if you leave the key in the off position when the engine does not turn off the RPM starts going up. I have not left it in off long enough to see how high it would go. It does not have a remote start and never has.
View 6 RepliesHave a 97 explorer 4wd xlt push rod. The key will not turn the engine off( when the unit is hot) with head lights on, I turn key off engine runs, i reach over and turn the headlights off engine will shut off. Start back with the headlights off the engine will shut right off, but if I turn the headlights on on while it is running and leave them on it will not shut off, unless i turn headlights off.cold start does fine.. I can turn ign key to the off position radio stops playing, so I know it is not the the switch or rod. I was going down the highway and lost dash lights and taillights the other day I moved the switch a little and they came back on the ign switch worked perfect that day.
View 2 RepliesI have a 2000 ford explorer. 4x4 v6. One day i started it up and it was running rough. It had real sluggish power. Then the check engine light came on. I hooked it up to the code machine. The only readout was number 3 misfired. I replaced the plug and all was fine. A few months it happend again. I replaced it again and it was fine. Well it just happened again. I replaced it again. It ran good to work but on the way back no good. Light came on again. Hooked up the machine it read number 4 misfired and number 2 bank lean. So I replaced number 4. It still runs like shit rough idle and no power. Give it gas it dogs out but then it'll kick in if i get on it. Thinking it maybe a vaccum leak or intake leak or o-rings.
View 4 Replies2009 Ford Explorer - 6cyl -4L - 36K miles. This morning driving it, I came to a stop sign and as I was braking, the idle starting going up (and up and up) to the point where I had to shut off the engine. When I restarted it, everything was fine and of course, I can't reproduce this. I have the shop manual and couldn't find an IAC valve on this vehicle which I'm assuming it doesn't have. I'm sure I didn't accidentally hit the gas (as opposed to the brake which I know I was pressing down on when it was happening). Years ago I had a different Ford which had the exact same symptom and replacing the IAC solve the problem.
View 3 RepliesI have a 2001 Sport Trac with the 4.0L engine and it's not producing a spark. The problem started when my dad was driving down the road and be claims it just shut off without warning, no sputtering, nothing. He had taken it to a shop and they had just come right out and said the engine went. My bf looked at it and he says there are no signs whatsoever of the engine going.
No oil in the coolant or coolant in the oil, we have replaced the ECM, coil pack, crank sensor, spark plugs, and checked the fuel. The theft light flashes every few seconds, not rapidly, so we ruled that out. The truck turns but doesn't start, when the key is turned to the "run" position, you can hear everything turn on, it just doesn't start. When it cranks, it isn't fast or slow, it's the normal speed from what I can remember so I'm not sure if it could be the timing chain or not. Where we can go from there?
1996 Ford Explorer on a small island with no mechanics. Vehicle does less than 100 miles per year, never over 20 mph. The check engine light came on and the code reader says it's a problem with the Camshaft Position Sensor. The vehicle runs fine, just as it did before the check engine light came on. I'm tempted to put some electrical tape over the check engine light and keep driving.
View 2 Replies4.6 liter V8 limited.
Problem 1 : Driving into a small town I slowed to 35 mph and set cruise control to hold speed. Suddenly a loud warning tone/ beep sounded and the engine shut off. I coasted into a parking lot and restarted and drove the rest of the way home without incident. (another 1-1/2 hour drive). Could I have had an auto shut down because of a low fluid sensor or something similar?
My cold antifreeze was below the cold fill range but still was visible in the container. The temperatures were not high and the heater still worked. All other levels were normal.
Problem 2 : It also have an irritating buzz in the dash some where. Sounds almost like you would imagine a speedometer cable could sound, except no cable. Could it be the speedometer? It is intermittent and seems related to either speed or RPM.
I think it's possessed! My sisters vehicle, a 2002 Explorer with a 4.0 V-6, automatic, 2 wheel drive will just shut off. At first it acted like it would vapor lock. But it would start right away. then the a while later, (several months), it got where it would drop rpms and the engine shudders, sometimes not dying.
When this first started, the throttle body was cleaned, a new air filter installed, fuel pressure checked. Everything checked out and for a few days it ran fine. Then it started all over again. There has never been a code thrown. All of this goes on only when the ambient temp is above 70 deg.'s. below 70 deg.'s it runs perfect.
Last week it went to the mechanic again and a new crank speed sensor, fuel pump, and diagnostic done. He could not find anything wrong any where. Took it for a test drive and it dyed on the mechanic. Still no codes. What the problem might be? Every Mechanic that has looked at it has gave up, one even saying, " it's possessed."
Ok this may be the norm, but I'm hearing something like a motor running after i kill my engine? It sounds like a fuel pump or something!!! O ya I have a 2011 6.7. I've had the truck for several months but just now hearing this....
View 11 RepliesI have been picking at an engine vibration for more than a year.
I have a '00 Explorer 302 V8 installed in an '82 Volvo. This engine/transmission has not been abused and only has 15k miles since it left the Ford factory. It was found intact on a pallet in dry storage. Everything was there as from Ford from the fan to the transmission output bushing. There is an engine vibration beginning about 2000 rpm in PARK so the problem is not in the transmission or drive shaft.
Perfectly smooth at idle and until you approach the start of the vibration.
Replaced the viscous clutch mechanical fan with duel electric so it isn't an out of balance fan.
Pulled the serpentine belt this afternoon and still have the vibration. Might have been a little less and I did find a idler pulley that had a little rattle but the big vibration is still there with only the harmonic balancer through torque converter rotating.
Replaced the pulley. Nothing else changed from when Ford built it.
No OBD codes.
On my V8 02 XLT Explorer the engine is running rough like it's missing.
I think a coil may have gone bad,,found a LOT of anti-freeze down in the spark plug hole.
Have replaced the intake but now need to fix the roughness.
Is there any easy way to check each coil? Or should I be checing something else?
I have a 2005 Ford Explorer with a 4.0 SOHC while the engine is running the left side timing chain rattles. I replaced the timing chain and guides and tensioner, the engine has good oil pressure but the noise is still there.
View 2 RepliesYesterday my lady's 2001 Explorer Sport with a 4.0 SOHC was running like a top and then suddenly after sitting parked for a couple hours it would crank but not start. After letting it sit for an hour or so it cranked and seemed to run ok. She drove a mile or so and it died at a stop light. It wouldn't start for a few minutes and then finally started but in limp mode. The engine was shaking and barely able to idle so she pulled into a parking spot and I came and checked it out and we had to have it towed home. This problem is just out of the blue suddenly with no warning.
Today I was able to get it to start but it shook really badly and was running like it possibly wasn't getting the right air/fuel mixture. There is no check engine light on. At one point today I realized that once it started and was idling horribly and shaking I could press the gas pedal just slightly and hold it there and the rpms would slowly go up and then the engine would smooth out. If I slowly gave it gas I could get the engine up to 3000 rpms and then it would hesitate and drop the rpms back down to 2500. If I try to rev the engine quickly it acts like the engine is flooding or starving and chokes and stalls.
It has 111k miles on it. She has only owned it for 6 months but it has ran flawlessly to this point, other than one random time that it just died at a stop light shortly after she got it.
I'm not familiar with these 4.0L SOHC engines and I'm not really sure where to start. The coolant was low, maybe 1/2 - 2/3 full in the radiator but she said that it did not overheat and she pays attention to her temperature gauge because she's had overheating issues in other vehicles in the past. This coolant has to be going somewhere. Hopefully it's not an intake or head gasket issue. We have not noticed any leaks and the oil was just changed last week and there is no coolant in the oil. The engine doesn't smoke at all either.
Maybe I need to buy a OBD scanner and check the air/fuel mixtures? I recently ordered a cheap ODBII bluetooth dongle for my android phone but the piece of junk only worked once so I have to order a different one. My girlfriend has to work in 2 days and I need to get this figured out ASAP.
If I put the Prius in park while I get out and mail a letter, engine temp is 190, I can get back in and drive off on electric, zero rpm's. However, if I push the start/stop button, mail the letter, and restart the engine (temp is still 190), I cannot get the engine to spool down. It keeps running for a few minutes.
View 4 RepliesIts getting worse. Noticed it a month or so ago, very slight ticking noise when the engine was cold. It would go away after a minute or two when the engine warmed up. Kinda sounded like a lifter ticking type noise when low on oil but I was not low on oil.
Now its getting more noticeable and it doesn't go away. Very noticeable when I take off or accelerate. less noticeable when I take my foot off the gas but its still there.
What it might be? I am pretty newbie about engines and I don't want some repair outfit telling me I need a rebuilt engine if all I need is to tighten my manifold or something. Because that would be my luck.
2000, XLT, 5 Liter V8, 178K miles.
I purchased my first Ford back in 2006 it was a 1999 Explorer Sport. Gave me a long line of problems from suspension to head gasket repair to rear main seal repair to ANOTHER head gasket repair. But sure enough, like I'm sure many of you have, I fell in love with her. She could do no wrong. Even now that I got her off the road she is still my baby. Now my recently purchased 2000 Explorer XLS which I've only had for about 5 months just yesterday started doing a strange hesitation. Perhaps a misfire. My initial instinct was dirty fuel injectors that hopefully if I'm lucky will be the easiest fix in Ford history. Another hypothesis is a bad plug. Either way, in my mind, that's best case scenario. I have yet to take it in and plan on buying some injector cleaner later on today. When I'm idling there's no problem. It's as soon I step on the gas that I feel the hesitation. Almost like a constant hiccup.
View 6 RepliesHeres the problem hi and low work fine but the wipers don't go into a rest position, they intermittently work sometimes but stop at the top of the rotation when I turn them off the stop wherever they were when I turned them off. I've replaced the turn signal wiper control switch and the wiper motor. (2001 explorer sport)...
View 2 RepliesMy wifes explorer will not attempt to turn over. When I turn the key to the run position the dash does not do anything. I dont get any indicator lights or anything from the dash. And also the PATS light in now a steady dim light. So now I am confused and don't know where to start on this one. Is this a PATS issue or is my instrument cluster the problem? I did read the TSB on the cluster.
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