The other day I went to turn off my vehicle and it continued running even when key is in off position. I took the key out and it still continued running. I had to disconnect the battery and turn key in on position for vehicle to stall. I do not want to buy any unnecessary parts nor do I want to take apart any unnecessary components.
View 1 RepliesThe other day I went to turn off my vehicle and it continued running even when key is in off position. I took the key out and it still continued running. I had to disconnect the battery and turn key in on position for vehicle to stall. I do not want to buy any unnecessary parts nor do I want to take apart any unnecessary.
View 3 RepliesCar recently acted like it was running on two or three cylinders and cel came on and continued to flash. The shop that did the repairs is no longer a Mazda dealer, but has a factoy trained tech. Don't know the code #, but was told that there was a low voltage code, and a misfire code. The battery was replaced, throttle body cleaned and a new fuel filter installed. The cel came back on about 25 miles later. They rechecked the codes. Said it could be the converter, and cleared the code again. After about 150 miles, the cel came on again but the car ran normal. Talked to the shop again and was told the the converter problem would have to be serviced at a Mazda dealer. The engine did the running on three cylinder thing again. Since then, it seems to run ok but the light is still flashing. If the OEM converters are fragile are there better options for replacement? The car has 30,000 miles.
View 4 RepliesI have a 2000 Explorer W/4.0 SOHC engine. With summer nearly over and fall on the way, I need to figure out what is going on with my engine. This problem has been going on for the past 2 years. As the outdoor temperatures get cooler, the harder it is to start and keep the engine running. This starts happening around 65 ambient temperature, and gets worse as the temps drop. By 30, I can barely keep the engine running.
Odd thing is, all I have to do if the engine starts is, keep my foot on the pedal to keep the engine around 2000RPM, put it in gear and start driving. After about a mile or two, the engine runs normally, and will do so the rest of the day. So far I have cleaned the air flow sensor, replaced the IAC, replaced all the injector "O" rings, and cussed a lot. I smoke tested the engine and the only vacuum leak is a very small one at the EGR valve.
I have a 2000 ford explorer. 4x4 v6. One day i started it up and it was running rough. It had real sluggish power. Then the check engine light came on. I hooked it up to the code machine. The only readout was number 3 misfired. I replaced the plug and all was fine. A few months it happend again. I replaced it again and it was fine. Well it just happened again. I replaced it again. It ran good to work but on the way back no good. Light came on again. Hooked up the machine it read number 4 misfired and number 2 bank lean. So I replaced number 4. It still runs like shit rough idle and no power. Give it gas it dogs out but then it'll kick in if i get on it. Thinking it maybe a vaccum leak or intake leak or o-rings.
View 4 Replies1996 Ford Explorer on a small island with no mechanics. Vehicle does less than 100 miles per year, never over 20 mph. The check engine light came on and the code reader says it's a problem with the Camshaft Position Sensor. The vehicle runs fine, just as it did before the check engine light came on. I'm tempted to put some electrical tape over the check engine light and keep driving.
View 2 RepliesIt's a UK VW Passat year 2000 with 1.8i longitudinal engine layout. Car has ABS
I discovered that the brakes are not releasing quickly after application. Examples where this has been noticed:
When braking and accelerating at the same time to dry brakes after puddles. Noticeable lack of power to re-accelerate when you release the brake pedal, presumably due to continued braking. Noticeable continuation of braking when trailbraking into a corner (ok sometimes I'm a bit of a racer in a family car).
What concerns me is when the snow, ice or heavy rain comes back that I might find sudden instability if the brakes aren't releasing after slowing for a corner or that worse still I'm destined for total brake servo failure.
There are no ABS related error codes although in the ice and snow I did find that the ABS fired until the pedal raised stiff and all 4 wheels just locked up (that was a fun junction crossing).
I have noticed that the drainage ducts in the bulkhead are blocked but I've never had water enter the car so I don't think it's water in the brake servo although this could have happened prior to me owning it I guess.
Working theories:
Due to slave cylinder corrosion and calipers are releasing slowly
Due to brake servo fault - either water ingress of vacuum leak
I have been picking at an engine vibration for more than a year.
I have a '00 Explorer 302 V8 installed in an '82 Volvo. This engine/transmission has not been abused and only has 15k miles since it left the Ford factory. It was found intact on a pallet in dry storage. Everything was there as from Ford from the fan to the transmission output bushing. There is an engine vibration beginning about 2000 rpm in PARK so the problem is not in the transmission or drive shaft.
Perfectly smooth at idle and until you approach the start of the vibration.
Replaced the viscous clutch mechanical fan with duel electric so it isn't an out of balance fan.
Pulled the serpentine belt this afternoon and still have the vibration. Might have been a little less and I did find a idler pulley that had a little rattle but the big vibration is still there with only the harmonic balancer through torque converter rotating.
Replaced the pulley. Nothing else changed from when Ford built it.
No OBD codes.
On my V8 02 XLT Explorer the engine is running rough like it's missing.
I think a coil may have gone bad,,found a LOT of anti-freeze down in the spark plug hole.
Have replaced the intake but now need to fix the roughness.
Is there any easy way to check each coil? Or should I be checing something else?
Just today AC started blowing air rapidly from the vents when I didn't have the AC on. The AC continued to run even after I had turned off the engine and took out the key. In fear of my battery dying I unplugged it but as soon as I plugged it back in to drive home from work it was the same thing. Where should I start?!
View 4 RepliesI have a 2005 Ford Explorer with a 4.0 SOHC while the engine is running the left side timing chain rattles. I replaced the timing chain and guides and tensioner, the engine has good oil pressure but the noise is still there.
View 2 RepliesYesterday my lady's 2001 Explorer Sport with a 4.0 SOHC was running like a top and then suddenly after sitting parked for a couple hours it would crank but not start. After letting it sit for an hour or so it cranked and seemed to run ok. She drove a mile or so and it died at a stop light. It wouldn't start for a few minutes and then finally started but in limp mode. The engine was shaking and barely able to idle so she pulled into a parking spot and I came and checked it out and we had to have it towed home. This problem is just out of the blue suddenly with no warning.
Today I was able to get it to start but it shook really badly and was running like it possibly wasn't getting the right air/fuel mixture. There is no check engine light on. At one point today I realized that once it started and was idling horribly and shaking I could press the gas pedal just slightly and hold it there and the rpms would slowly go up and then the engine would smooth out. If I slowly gave it gas I could get the engine up to 3000 rpms and then it would hesitate and drop the rpms back down to 2500. If I try to rev the engine quickly it acts like the engine is flooding or starving and chokes and stalls.
It has 111k miles on it. She has only owned it for 6 months but it has ran flawlessly to this point, other than one random time that it just died at a stop light shortly after she got it.
I'm not familiar with these 4.0L SOHC engines and I'm not really sure where to start. The coolant was low, maybe 1/2 - 2/3 full in the radiator but she said that it did not overheat and she pays attention to her temperature gauge because she's had overheating issues in other vehicles in the past. This coolant has to be going somewhere. Hopefully it's not an intake or head gasket issue. We have not noticed any leaks and the oil was just changed last week and there is no coolant in the oil. The engine doesn't smoke at all either.
Maybe I need to buy a OBD scanner and check the air/fuel mixtures? I recently ordered a cheap ODBII bluetooth dongle for my android phone but the piece of junk only worked once so I have to order a different one. My girlfriend has to work in 2 days and I need to get this figured out ASAP.
I was driving my 90 Jeep Cherokee (automatic transmission) last night on the freeway when I suddenly lost power. The engine continued to idle (but roughly) but pressing the accelerator did not result in any increase in engine speed or vehicle speed. The car came to a stop on the off-ramp but I was able to restart it and limp along at idle speed for another few blocks until it came to a stop.
I suspected I may have run out of gas, despite the fuel indicator showing a quarter of a tank but after adding 2 gallons of gas to the tank it wouldn't start. It sounded like it wanted to but it wouldn't start.
Its getting worse. Noticed it a month or so ago, very slight ticking noise when the engine was cold. It would go away after a minute or two when the engine warmed up. Kinda sounded like a lifter ticking type noise when low on oil but I was not low on oil.
Now its getting more noticeable and it doesn't go away. Very noticeable when I take off or accelerate. less noticeable when I take my foot off the gas but its still there.
What it might be? I am pretty newbie about engines and I don't want some repair outfit telling me I need a rebuilt engine if all I need is to tighten my manifold or something. Because that would be my luck.
2000, XLT, 5 Liter V8, 178K miles.
I purchased my first Ford back in 2006 it was a 1999 Explorer Sport. Gave me a long line of problems from suspension to head gasket repair to rear main seal repair to ANOTHER head gasket repair. But sure enough, like I'm sure many of you have, I fell in love with her. She could do no wrong. Even now that I got her off the road she is still my baby. Now my recently purchased 2000 Explorer XLS which I've only had for about 5 months just yesterday started doing a strange hesitation. Perhaps a misfire. My initial instinct was dirty fuel injectors that hopefully if I'm lucky will be the easiest fix in Ford history. Another hypothesis is a bad plug. Either way, in my mind, that's best case scenario. I have yet to take it in and plan on buying some injector cleaner later on today. When I'm idling there's no problem. It's as soon I step on the gas that I feel the hesitation. Almost like a constant hiccup.
View 6 RepliesHeres the problem hi and low work fine but the wipers don't go into a rest position, they intermittently work sometimes but stop at the top of the rotation when I turn them off the stop wherever they were when I turned them off. I've replaced the turn signal wiper control switch and the wiper motor. (2001 explorer sport)...
View 2 RepliesMy wifes explorer will not attempt to turn over. When I turn the key to the run position the dash does not do anything. I dont get any indicator lights or anything from the dash. And also the PATS light in now a steady dim light. So now I am confused and don't know where to start on this one. Is this a PATS issue or is my instrument cluster the problem? I did read the TSB on the cluster.
View 2 RepliesI'm looking at a dirt cheap Explorer 4.0, has been sitting for 2 years. Runs nice, with a double "knock" noise but quieter than a rod knock. Idles smooth at 600 rpm, "knock" is consistent, but increases as engine increases speed. Has 2 year old oil, and 2 year old gas. Would a tune up support it, and revitalize it, or is the engine almost dead. Still drives, didn't push it to hard. Interior is 9/10, exterior is 10/10. I have him down to 600. 4x4 works, and feels good.
View 6 RepliesI have a 2000 Explorer 4.0 SOHC that I'm having a persistent problem of cylinder 3 misfire. I've changed plugs with Motorcraft plugs set to the proper gap, put on new wires and have checked the resistance across the ignition module, both primary and secondary without change. I doubt that the problem could be the ignition control module as only cylinder 3 is affected. I have Auto Enginuity that I use to read the codes, attempt a repair and then clear the codes only to have P0303 appear again. Obviously the engine stumbles and has poor acceleration.
View 14 RepliesWill a bad flex fuel sensor cause the engine to shut off. Not stall out... it just stops running.
View 1 RepliesI started out with my 2000 F150 with a 5.4 V8 running rough at idle. It would idle way down slow and then rev up a little over and over. On a couple of occasions it would even die when in drive or reverse. I did finally get a Check Engine light so i put it on my diagnostic program to see what was up. Here is what I got:
P1151 Lack of HO2S21 Indicates Lean
P0171 System Too Lean Bank 1
p0174 System Too Lean Bank 2
After doing some reading up I checked all my vacuum hoses and cleaned my mass air flow sensor. I then got the same codes again after a few minutes of running. So I went to the next thing that was recommended, the upstream bank 2 O2 sensor. After changing it the truck ran fine for a couple of days, no issues. Then all of the sudden it idled a little funny again and I got a Check Engine Light again. This time:
P0171 Bank 1 Lean
P0174 Bank 2 Lean
P0300 Random/Multiple Misfire
I reset the light to see if I would get the same again later. Before the light came on again I filled my truck up with gas and it seemed to be running pretty good again. Then a day or so later it set the light again. This time:
P0171 Bank 1 Lean
P0174 Bank 2 Lean
P0136 O2 Circuit Malfunction Bank 1 Sensor 2
P0156 O2 Circuit Malfunction Bank 2 Sensor 2
P1131 Lack of Switches HO2S11 Lean
P1151 Lack of Switches HO2S21 Lean
I went ahead and drove for a few days as it had gotten really cold here and I didn't feel like messing around in my shop since it isn't heated. A couple days ago I needed gas so i filled up again. Suddenly the problem was gone again. Truck ran fine idled fine no missing or odd idling at all. That lasted a day or two before it started acting a little weird again. At that point i was down about 1/8 of a tank from full. I have read that there can be issues with the fuel pump.. I am kind of wondering if that may be it now. But I haven't had to deal with this sort of issue before so I am unsure what to check next. The truck always runs fine off idle, it only seems to have the issue when it is idling. I had reset the codes the last time and i have the light on again now. I haven't checked it yet but I am sure it is going be some combination of what i have had in the past.
I have read that the IAC valve can be an issue as well. I had a problem with mine sticking a couple years ago and when it would do it you could just tap it with a wrench and it would idle up. But it never died like it does now and it would also idle a lot slower than it does. Back then I cleaned the valve and had no more issues with it. The truck has always had times when it would act weird at idle usually after slowing down after being at highway speed. The current issue happens at all temps cold or hot.