Ford - Explorer :: 2000 - Emissions ECU Would Not Reset
Jul 11, 2016
A little embarrassed about a problem I have had getting the Emissions computer to reset for emissions testing in Maryland. I tried everything the testing station suggested, but could not get the codes to reset, for readiness for emissions testing. I surrendered after 5 or 6 trips to the testing station, and took it to my very trusted mechanic, thinking I had a bad ECU, and he would need to replace it. I would have done it myself, but figured I would not be able to re-program it myself, so would rely on my mechanic.
Got the car back, fixed for less than $50 (they did other maintenance work as well). Guess what it was? It was a blown fuse! This is the second time this 2000 Explorer XLT, 5.0 has me stumped and it was just a fuse - first time was tow-hitch lighting. So now, no matter what, I will check all the fuses first! Regardless of the problem - ok, maybe only a last resort when I have a flat tire
2000 Ford Explorer XLT, 5.0L ......
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2001 Sport trac, we are throwing a large leak evap code. The check fuel cap light came on and went out after replacing the cap, but we are still getting the code. Is there a known problem area to look at or is it a job for the smoke machine?
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My 1998 Explorer with 120,000 mile on it. The check light just came on. I have had several auto part stores plug in the scan tool and there were no error codes. I'm looking for the reset button location. I am also wondering should there be something missed by the scan tools, will the light activate should there be a real problem.
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2001 explorer sport, need to reset and clear check engine light I know the problem a small pinhole in exhaust that opens up and i fill it in How do i reset check engine light...
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Can I get an explanation of the components involved in the EPC system/circut. Car gets wet and epc light comes on with emissions workshop. I don't want to get rid of my Volkswagen Passat 2000.
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I own a 2000 V6 Passat with 68K miles. For the last 3 months, I have had check engine & emissions workshop lights. During the last month, the car will not start at random times (although never first thing in the morning, only after it has been recently driven); this will happen 1 or 2 times a day. After waiting 1-2 minutes, the car will usually start on the 2nd try; it has always started by the 3rd try. Once started, the car runs fine, although there is initially a strong gas smell. I took the car to a local mechanic, who changed the air mass meter, which had no effect. The mechanic now wants to change the O2 sensors. Unfortunately, I do not know the codes. By the way, the car had an emissions workshop light in 12/04: the light went off when the dealer did work under a "WE recall", which I believe means that it replaced the secondary air vacuum line.
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I got a Passat 2000 OBD-II scanner won't read for emissions testing. I did the test in 5 different place all the time when they ask to turn the key and the computer from emission test give a error and stop.
I have a radio aftermarket one of my friend have this problem and he have to install the original radio. So I buy the wire harness and the radio i install and still not able to do the emissions test.
My ABS light is flashing but my friend said this is not a problem he fix more than 4 car just replacing the aftermarket radio....
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I am getting a code for my 2003 Accent (65,000 miles). The code is P1401 and it is telling me the fix is replace Evaporative Emissions Canister. I asked my mechanic about 2 months ago about this and he wasn't too concerned.
We are not in an area where they do Emission testing. I will be driving back home to WI . and want to know if I should be concerned. The round trip is about 900 miles.
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This began as a troubleshooting exercise for a P0442 code (2002 model) indicating a leak in the evap emissions system. Often caused by simple things like a loose/poorly sealing filler cap. Not this time
It's a neat design, tucked away up in the fender well. Even sports a very effective stone guard (plastic shield) which hides all that tubing from view. But the shield also traps all the road salt and mud and packs it into the crevices between the tubes where it stays from one winter till the next. Even a powerful car wash probably can't dislodge the caked on mess once solidified.
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I have a 2000 Passat 1.8T. When I start it up in the morning I hear a loud obnoxious noise like a vacuum leak from the engine compartment. It lasts for about 1.5 minutes then runs normally. After about a minute it starts up again and only last for about 7 seconds...ish. When I drive it afterwards, less that a half block or so, the CEL light goes on after 1 beep. Also, at that time I get a messages from the instrument panel that says "Emissions Workshop 1". I've read that it could be a simple damaged vacuum hose to the secondary air pump. Definitely a huge price difference to repair.
This morning is was colder outside than usual and the dash kept beeping and flashing the "Emissions Workshop 1" code intermittently.
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2000 E150 - I see a pair of airbags listed at a salvage yard with module. Do I need the module? Do the "switches" that set off the airbags reset?
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I have been picking at an engine vibration for more than a year.
I have a '00 Explorer 302 V8 installed in an '82 Volvo. This engine/transmission has not been abused and only has 15k miles since it left the Ford factory. It was found intact on a pallet in dry storage. Everything was there as from Ford from the fan to the transmission output bushing. There is an engine vibration beginning about 2000 rpm in PARK so the problem is not in the transmission or drive shaft.
Perfectly smooth at idle and until you approach the start of the vibration.
Replaced the viscous clutch mechanical fan with duel electric so it isn't an out of balance fan.
Pulled the serpentine belt this afternoon and still have the vibration. Might have been a little less and I did find a idler pulley that had a little rattle but the big vibration is still there with only the harmonic balancer through torque converter rotating.
Replaced the pulley. Nothing else changed from when Ford built it.
No OBD codes.
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how to reset ecu from hyundai accent 2005??
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I was reading the car's settings using the Torque app and an OBDII bluetooth dongle and I realize that at WOT the ECU is only seeing 85% from the TPS. O know on some vehicles there is an actual procedure like turn the key forward, hold the gas pedal at WOT, turn the key all the way forward w/o starting while pulling the turn signal stalk down or something crazy like that to force the ECU to re-measure while you keep the gas pedal pinned to the floor. I know on other cars when it doesn't read a full 100% you miss out on a small amount of power and MPG so if it's an easy procedure with these cars I'd like to reset it. I did some searching but mostly came up with info on how to replace it and a few related subjects but noting on this specifically for this car specifically.
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How do I re-set CEL without a scanner ? I've heard about battery disconnect , but concerned about causing other issues . 2000 Passat V6 GLS wagon 4motion Tiptronic .
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I just bought a 2000 Saturn SC2 that had a "service engine soon" light on. I took it to the shop to get it inspected and they reset the computer and said that I needed to drive it around 100 miles to reset the computer so it would pass MO state emissions. After driving it 160 miles only two of the required have reset. I took it on the highway at 55 MPH steady for 2 miles. Actually did around 8 miles. as the shop suggested and that did not work.
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I have a 2000 Explorer, 4.0 V6 SOHC w/ 135K miles. All of a sudden it has an idle issue that's driving me nuts and the dealership can't fix. It has been in the shop 4 times for this problem so far.
It accelerates and cruises great, but when I come to a stoplight, the idle goes down to 900, then suddenly drops to 600 and idles rough. The "Check Engine" light is NOT lit. There is no hesitation, backfire or any other running problem. I have had plugs and wires, PCV valve, IAC valve and MAF sensor replaced. Technicians have checked for vacuum leaks and intake air gasket leaks and have found nothing.
I can "power brake" it and smooth it out some and even turning on the a/c or defroster boosts the idle and works a little. Shifting to neutral or park does not raise the idle like previous cars I owned. I only drive this car back and forth to work, about 1000 miles a month, and I'd like to make this Explorer last at least 200K miles. We just got a Ford Escape and I do not want another car payment right now!
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I'm fixing my mother's Ford Explorer 2000 it turns over but won't start it sputters and everyone smile you hear what sounds like a small backfire.
it seems to be getting good spark I can get it to start for a little while and run on either. So I'm assuming the plugs and wires are working well they look good. When I tested the spark it looks very good.
ECM fuses look good able to use a scanner Jump fuel relay and can hear pump run I made sure there is gas in the gas tank
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I have a 2000 ford explorer sport. For some reason the battery is being drained when my wife runs errons. It will start fine and she can make a couple stops then it will be dead. Is this just because the battery won't hold much or a charge anymore? This is the original battery. I checked the cable and they looked fine. It will charge up so she can start the next morning but like I said. If she has to make a few stops it goes dead. Looking for options before I start re-building the whole thing?...
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2000 Explorer with the 4.0 SOHC.
It starts fine under all conditions but when cold, like in the 30s or lower, it doesn't want to remain idling, yet no CEL comes on. New fuel pump. The throttle body is cleaned, as are the injectors. It runs super once it gets past the cold startup issue.
I was thinking a sensor is getting weak but not weak enough to set the CEL.
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2000 Explorer Sport 4.0. I just did the heads, valves, decked, proofed. New wires, plugs. Followed the procedure to the letter. First two starts were a bit touchy, but now starts fine and purrs like a kitten at idle. The problem; under load it acts like it drops a cylinder. Bad plug, bad wire, fouled injector? This thing is driving me nuts.
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