Ford - Explorer :: 2000 - EGR Pipe Is Completely Broken Free From The Header - Cylinder 2 Misfire
Mar 17, 2013
Computer also said to replace Camshaft position sensor. The plug is getting spark and appears to be getting fuel. the plug was moist not dry. How ever i did notice the egr pipe is completely broken free from the header. Which I am replacing. Since it is reading lean on bank 2 could this alone cause more fuel to be dump in the cylinder 2 cause the plug to be too wet to fire? if not what might the possible problem be? 2000 Ford Explorer 4.0L ...
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So the flexpipe on my exhaust is cracked and completely broken, so my passat sounds like a Mack truck. I've been looking into getting it fixed and I've been told i need to buy an entire new down pipe. Should i attempt to just get it fixed or buy a new down pipe.
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My ford car in not running properly. I have fix my broken cylinder from the car wholesale repair and dealer, but it is now completely broken down.
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I have a 2000 Explorer 4.0 SOHC that I'm having a persistent problem of cylinder 3 misfire. I've changed plugs with Motorcraft plugs set to the proper gap, put on new wires and have checked the resistance across the ignition module, both primary and secondary without change. I doubt that the problem could be the ignition control module as only cylinder 3 is affected. I have Auto Enginuity that I use to read the codes, attempt a repair and then clear the codes only to have P0303 appear again. Obviously the engine stumbles and has poor acceleration.
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6.0 .... Have a code Po3o4 Cyl 4 misfire. I pulled the valve cover to remove the injector and found the right half of the rocker mount and rocker arm laying in the head. What may have happened?
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My wife's explorer has developed a misfire on cylinder 3&4 consistently. I did have cylinder 2 misfire once. But have not had it come back. The explorer is a 2006 4.6 limited with 130000 miles. Originally it was misfiring on cylinder 3. So I swapped the coil packs between 2&3. Cleared the codes. Still got a cylinder 3 misfire. So I went and bought new plugs for it. Cleared the codes. Still misfire on cylinder 3. Swapped injectors 3&1.
I took it out and romped on it and now I get cylinder 3&4 consistently misfiring. Now I got me to thinking that the only side that is misfiring is the pass side. I was going to swap o2 sensors but couldn't get the driver side out so I went and bought a new o2 upstream for the passenger side. Still get 3&4 misfire. Thought it might be fuel related so I pulled the filter. It was kinda tough to blow through so I put a new fuel filter in it. How the hell can I check the fuel pressure without a fuel fitting? I am now thinking it might be fuel pump, plugged cat, or low compression
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I just got a 4.6 4WD Explorer in for rough running. It had timing chain noise and some odd codes for primary coil H codes along with cylinder 8 misfire.
I replaced the coil to get rid of the "H" code and it was fine. Still misfires on 8, and I really don't care because it's coincidence that the timing could be affecting it or perhaps.... bent valves!
The vehicle starts and idles a bit rough. Can't go very fast, and of course I know I should run it as little as possible!
Here is the deal, how should I present this to the customer? Should I let him know that some valves could be bent after replacing the chain (and all associated parts) and that it could still be effed? Or will I be fine after replacing? Pretty much, where they had a tensioner failure/guide breakage and valves bent too?
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On my wife's '99 Explorer, she just acquired, we had a P0303, #3 cylinder misfire. I found the plug cracked and replaced it. Do the codes reset themselves or do I have to do it? I'd rather not disconnect the battery and reprogram the radio.
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126000kms on 03 explorer 4.6 truck started. Running rough at idle and under load.... Code came up for cyl 8 injector. Replaced injector... problem still there. Switched cop and plug with another cyl and plug.... same code and cycl 8 is definitely not working. Would a generic problem always affect i cylinder. I even checked wire clip on for injector... it appears ok. There is power to injector wire clip.
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I started feeling a slightly rough idle three days ago and yesterday the check engine light illuminated. When we read the OBD, it indicated a Cyl #1 misfire. Question is this. Can I replace a single coil pack (1/cyl), or do I ahve to replace all 8 as a set and why? 2000 Ford Expedition 5.4 L cyl misfire.....
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This has been an issue for about 8 months now. I'm getting a misfire on cylinder 4. So far compression test, new gas filter, fuel injectors cleaned, spark plugs and wires replaced. coil pack replaced. Heater valve was leaking but was replaced.
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OK, got a check engine light today when I fired up the Ranger.
Took it down and got the codes read it have a miss fire on cylinder 5. Picked up some plugs and wires, got to get those E3's out of there, but kind of think that's really not going to fix the problem. So that probably leaves the coil pack or injectors.
So what's the consensus on the best coils to use?
Also, being an 18 wheeler for more years than I care to remember, I've learned swapping just 1 injector is never the way to go. So whats the best type of injectors to get and where the best place to get them should it come to that?
Oh, it's a 2000 3.0L Flex fuel 5 speed.
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My parents 2000 Ranger has an CEL for cylinder 4 misfire, but it will clear on its own and then start up days/weeks later, is this common? Could it be an injector?
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I have a misfire mystery going on in my girlfriends 00 ranger. What is going on, is there is an intermittent misfire on #4. I have an ultra gauge hooked to it, so most of the time when it does it, it will flash a pending code. A lot of the time, the pending code will go away, but sometimes it will set the PO304 code.
First I tried a tune up. New plugs and wires, air cleaner, cleaned out the throttle body. This cured it, for a short while. Then we were back to the pending code / setting code for #4.
When I pull the plug on #4 it is sometimes wet with gas. If you put a new plug in it runs fine for a while. In fact the last time we took a several 100 mile trip with it right after plug change, and it ran great. The pulled plugs re always in good condition with no burn, oil, chips or glazing. I have been using the standard autolites that are in advance auto's computer for that engine. No issues with the other 5 so I figure they re good enough.
The day after we came back I get the call... Honey its doing it again. Often to the point of having no power at all.
But it will clear itself usually, if not a new plug for #4 will cure it immediately.
So I thought something is killing this plug.... Or flooding it. SO I ran 2 cans of sea foam though it, put in a new plug and an new wire. It fixed it for a week then it did it again.
Ok I think... maybe the coil pack is bad either killing the plug or just not firing it at all? So since the pack has never been change in its nearly 300K life (to my knowledge, shes had the truck since about 60K) What the heck.... a new coil pack for the old thing.
I have not had the chance to clean the MAF but we are talking misfire on one cylinder, every now and then with no real conditions that set it off. More often than not its a pending code that you can even hear or feel and other times its a full blown miss that drags the truck down. Well for a short while until it clears up or I replace the plug.
3 cans of seafoam surely would have cleared a sticky injector. I realize it could be a bad wire to that injector but I have not had the time to tear the fiddle bits off to get to it to clean and test it... or just replace it.
Honestly Ive had a lot of cars and trucks, I don't remember ever having to replace an injector. Ive had bad wires to them but they misbehave ALL the time. This problem is so intermittent its freaky.
She says it does it mostly when its cold or not totally warmed up. Almost always, by the time the engine is hot it goes away.
And hot for this truck is over 185F, which I think its too cold to be running and the thermostat needs changed BUT she thinks cool=good. I keep telling her no, cool is often not good, the engine needs to be up to the operating temp.... which to me means 190-200. Her ranger runs between 170-180 all the time. I doubt thats causing the problem but still.... I think new thermo is in order.
My thinking is since it runs so cool all the time, the issue might be related to a spike in the temp over 180 ish, that gods forbid is opening a crack somewhere to suck air or lose compression.
And a compression test is my next step on #4 if/when it does it again. Now I have had cracked valves before, I don't recall them acting this way. After all sometimes the thing will go 100s of miles under different driving conditions and run fine. I don't think a cracked valve would be that nice.
Shes getting @18 MPG mixed driving, when it runs t runs like a bear. It always fires right up. There is no smoke, white or black. There is no water in the oil, no oil in the water. No audible exhaust leaks. No ticks knocks or oddball noises. For its age and miles almost 300K it runs perfectly.
Well until it has its intermittent issue with the misfire, that isnt bad enough to actually set the code.
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I have a ford Ranger with a 2.5 and 231,000 miles. I bought this truck with a misfire on #1 cylinder. drove it home and started it a couple days later and still misfire on #1 but as soon as you rev up the motor the #2 starts misfiring as well and dies. start it back up and misfire on #1, rev up the throttle and misfire on #2 also.
Here's what i have done so far. intake gaskets, plugs and wires, checked fuel pressure (good), swapped injectors on 1 and 2 with different injectors, timing belt, tensioner, swapped coils from primary to secondary no change, checked compression and all 155 and above.
I have talked to everyone i know and am getting no where. the truck can sit and run for a hour with a minor misfire on #1 but as soon as you hit the gas it starts another misfire on #2. I am thinking it is a ecm issue.
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Well, I have been through the tech folder and all over the forum reading but cant seem to come up with a good first step. When i accelerate the truck shakes, by the sound it seems that its missing a cylinder. I guess it could also be the motor mounts. Besides replacing the plugs and coils, is there something else that could remedy a misfires or dead cylinder?
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2000 Explorer Sport 4.0. I just did the heads, valves, decked, proofed. New wires, plugs. Followed the procedure to the letter. First two starts were a bit touchy, but now starts fine and purrs like a kitten at idle. The problem; under load it acts like it drops a cylinder. Bad plug, bad wire, fouled injector? This thing is driving me nuts.
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I recently bought a 00 Excursion v10 2wd everything looked right no major problems. I noticed it has a rough idle and i thought it could be the EGR i went under the hood and there's no EGR in sight. I plugged the OBD reader to see if it would give any codes since the there was no check engine light on and wanted wanted to make sure it worked, It showed a P0304 code its Cyl4 misfire i checked plugs/coils and i noticed there's a little insert inside Cyl4 plugs hole in the head that it has the plug screwed on. I decided to change all the plugs and the coils and i still have the rough idle and code i can hear a ticking noise around the engine in the passenger side.
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OK, got a check engine light today when I fired up the Ranger. Like I posted previously it is running kind of rough so guess I know why now.
Took it down and got the codes read it have a miss fire on cylinder 5. Picked up some plugs and wires, got to get those E3's out of there, but kind of think that's really not going to fix the problem. So that probably leaves the coil pack or injectors.
So what's the consensus on the best coils to use? Also, being an 18 wheeler for more years than I care to remember, I've learned swapping just 1 injector is never the way to go. So whats the best type of injectors to get and where the best place to get them should it come to that?
Oh, it's a 2000 3.0L Flex fuel 5 speed.
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I have a 2000 f150 5.4 liter engine. I traveled about a month ago and while on the highway it started "bouncing/shuttering" really bad. I pulled off and while still in drive but completely stopped it was still bouncing but when in park it stopped. I took in into the Ford dealership and they said that cylinder 5 was misfiring and it was losing pressure fast. Then it stopped acting up completely and they couldn't find anything wrong with it.
Well about a week ago it started bouncing again on city roads (no highway). The check engine light came on and Orielys said it was a cylinder 5 misfire. Also, under the oil cap and in the tube where you would put the oil in has a yellow thick substance on it. I know that it is water in the oil. Also, there is a black "gunk" not far from where you would put the oil in. Could these problems be connected?
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I've got a misfire problem with my Focus. It started about a month ago and did not trip a code until last week. It stumbles on acceleration between 2,000 and 4,000 rpms. It is only a slight stumble and although noticeable, it does not impede driveability much. Last week I was able to get it to finally trip an OBD code. P302 - Cylinder 2 misfire. I changed the plugs and wires with no effect. I thought I had it narrowed down to the coil or injector until my wife noticed a new wrinkle.
Under normal driving conditions the misfire is annoying, but my wife found that if she turns on the A/C, it is undriveable and will not accelerate past 30 mph without some patience and a neck brace for the bucking. My first thought was the A/C compressor was freezing up. I turned off the A/C and left the blower on and it would not stop missing. I turn off the blower and it smooths right out to the annoyance I described first.
Right now I drive the car without A/C and blower whenever I accelerate. If I'm going a steady speed, all is well and I can run the blower and A/C.
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