Ford - Explorer :: 2000 - A/C Stopped Working - Compressor On And Off Intermittently?
May 16, 2012
I have a 2000 explorer and the a/c stopped working. I recharged the a/c because freon was low per the gauges and then the compressor would kick on, then the pressure would drop in a matter of seconds and it kicked off again. Then the pressure goes back up, compressor kicks on again and this just keeps doing this over and over but never gets cold. What's wrong? My a/c worked last year.
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I have an early 99 F250. The a/c compressor stopped working. Have checked pressures, switches, freon etc. Found the switch in the dash is not getting power to send to the compressor. Where the feed for this switch is? I have checked all fuses, all good. The manual does not show a relay as being an a/c relay, so I am stumped without taking it somewhere now but I would like to avoid that.
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The rubber (insulator?) around the antenna mast was seriously compromised, I noticed, when it was removed for a car wash (an infrequent occurrence). The radio worked occasionally after that.
Then I had a minor water leak through the vent system due to a blocked drainage lip on the particulate filter. The floor was soaked, causing the alarm to go off without warning (now dried and working correctly), but the radio stopped altogether if i remember correctly.
Then the wipers stopped working when it rained (they worked when dry). Replaced the wiper motor, and lo and behold, the radio works again sometimes - when it's dry out. obviously, i need to replace the antenna mast. Will this correct it?
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My AC is working intermittently, best under acceleration, horrible in stop & go traffic. The dealership told me I need a new compressor clutch but the written estimate was to replace the whole compressor assembly. Replacing just the clutch isn't too bad, is it? I'm pretty handy and do a lot of my own work but I typically avoid the AC system. Replacing just the clutch doesn't involve draining the coolant or anything, right?
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So the A/C on my wife's 2013 Tiguan stopped working suddenly this past Thursday, just our luck this weekend was the start of a 95+ degree week. Took it to the dealership today for a diagnostic and they came back saying that the line between the condenser and compressor has a leak and needs to be replaced. They're estimating about $690 including tax for the job, this includes the AC evac and refill.
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I have a 2008 Chevy Equinox, and have had issues with the air conditioner for a while (see my other post: [URL] ....).
Lately, if the car is stopped in traffic or at a red light, I cannot get any cold air. The compressor will turn on, but only 2-3 seconds, then it shuts back off. It will cycle like this, on and off, about every 10-15 seconds while I am stopped. Each time this happens, the RPMs jump and the car lurches forward a little as well. As soon as I start moving at a decent speed (20 mph or so), the air gets cold again.
The recommendation from my other thread was to replace the heater control module.
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The other day I was driving with the air on high, Since the van is rather old, the compressor is quite loud. All at once the blower and the compressor stopped working at the same time. now I have no heat, defroster, vent plus when I slide the selector to AC. the compressor does not kick on.
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Bought an 04' Pontiac Grand. AC worked fine on the test drive then after a few weeks the AC stopped blowing air. I can feel the compressor is working and the air is being conditioned but the blower motor does not turn on. I've tried using all the speeds and none of them work. I do not believe the controls are to blame but rather either
A.) resister or
B.) connector(s) or
C.) blown blower motor.
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I have a friend who has a 2003 Explorer and all his windows stopped working.
I checked all the fuses under dash and hood and found that none of them were shorted, even swapped my window circuit breaker off of my Ex and still could not get them to work. I took a test light to all the power wires in the door and noticed that he wasn't getting positive power and that he had negative to the switches. I ran a jumper wire from the battery and could get the windows to work. I removed the door panel and traced the wire all the way through the rubber boot at the door jam but could not get any juice. The circuit relay has power to it but don't know where else to look!
What else should I look for? Is there another place that he might've lost contact or another fuse/switch somewhere that I didn't see. Looking for a wire diagram for the power windows that would also kinda trace faults.
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I have an issue with the air conditioner of my prius. It just works while I am driving, but it does not work when I stop for a short while, such as waiting for signal. The fan is working fine. I visited a dealer and they told me the gas is leaking... but, they are wrong. I cannot believe them. The gas is fine and there is no leak and no problem exists at any other parts. Need to know about it? Should I replace the compressor?
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I have a 98 4door 4x4 auto. Reverse stopped working a year ago. The forward speeds work perfectly. I hate to have to rebuild the entire trans. I've been driving it some, being careful where I park, but getting tired of it. My question is do you have to pull and take the trans all the way apart to fix this?
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I have a moonroof & there were no map light bulbs, so I tried putting them in place but the electric connection there wasn't so good (there is a plastic covered with wires) so the bulbs are in but it doesn't work. What worst is, that now all the interior lights (glove box & rear dome) don't work as well!! nor the power windows & moonroof don't work now (it worked before). I guess that I have touched something or a fuse broke... I don't know what to do...
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I have a 1994 Ford Explorer and the cruise control stopped working about a year ago. The horn still works. I changed the fuse but it's still not working. My mechanic checked the cruise control, and was able to determine it was either the clock spring or the control module located above the glove box. He told me it was most likely a bad clock spring, especially considering the number of miles on the truck (385,000). However, in speaking with a Ford dealership parts department, the '94 Ford Explorer does not have a clock spring. So, I'm back to square one.
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My power windows and door lock controls on all doors have stopped working. No blown fuses and the local parts who says that locks and windows don't run on the same relay? I don't have a garage and cant really secure my vehicle?
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My entry pad on the outside of the drivers door stopped working on my 2002 Explorer. Not only does it not open the doors but they don't light up when push the buttons. I looked in the owners manuel for a fuse related to this but did not see one. Which fuse the number pad is controlled by?
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The driver side lock actuator on my 1999 Explorer has stopped working. It got so I couldn't even use the key to lock the driver door. I know I can get a replacement part, but after taking of the door panel and trying to get at the actuator, I am concerned about doing the work myself. Any tricks for making the job easier? Are there special tools that would make it easier? Or would it be best just to take it to a repair shop and let them do it?
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The navigation door stopped working about 6 months ago while the navigation screen still worked fine. Two weeks ago the door started to work as it should be, but today it stopped working again.
According to other threads people have published this could be from the door being off-track, a broken motor, and a blown fuse. Obviously none of these scenarios could be apply in our case.
Btw, I checked all fuses and could not find any problems with them.
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Stock FM/CD/SAT radio that came with my Sonata, AM stopped working intermittently while FM and XM both still worked. Upgraded the radio to JVC with Bluetooth and found that AM still does not work. FM works fine as well as all other functions.
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The right turn signal on my 1998 Ford Explorer recently stopped working. The flasher was making a horrible buzzing sound when I tried to signal right, but worked fine signaling left.
I just replaced the flasher, which has cleared up the buzzing noise when trying to signal right. The flasher clicks like it's supposed to, but the lights still do not flash.
Here's a summary of the current symptoms:
-Hazard lights work fineFlasher clicks; interior indicators flash; exterior lights flash
-Left right signal indicator works fineFlasher clicks; interior indicators flash; exterior lights flash
-Right turn signal does not work
-Flasher clicks
-Interior indicator stash off; exterior lights stay off
What to check next???
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I, like many, have had issues with my aux jack and decided to have it replaced with an aftermarket device. My aftermarket device plugs into the rear of the radio in place of the OEM aux harness. After removed the old OEM aux harness and installed the new one and put everything back together i had a problem.
The new AUX also comes with a USB slot as well and it all works properly, thats not the issue.
The issue is that my keyless remote has intermittently stopped working. I got out to lock the doors with the remote and nothing happened. I had no time to fiddle with it so i locked the doors via the keyhole and left it. The next time to went to my car, i tried to use the keyless and voila it worked! it locked AND unlocked. I was releived that it worked. Unfortunately once i drove and parked and tried to lock again - it didnt work . Needless to say it doesn't always work, ususally if i lock the doors with the key and come back more then 30 minutes, it unlocks keylessly.
The remote LED light turns on when i press any of the buttons so i know the battery is fine. I already opened the remote and confirmed the contacts are working properly. The only thing i haven't tried to do is reprogram the keyless remote (which i dont think is necessary).
Random symptoms - there are 3 circular dials (fan control, fan speed, temperature control) in the centre console. Originally ONLY the center dials LED lights would turn on. Now randomly the 3rd dials LED lights turn on again. I wanna start checking fuses but would like to know where to start.
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My 2004 camry LE (235K miles) has had a noise associated with the blower for several months. The blower worked fine on all settings but had a subtle noise that was between a purr and a click. It's constant, fast-paced, rhythmic and rises in pitch as the blower setting is changed. Hot or cold settings don't make a difference. The closest I can approximate is the sound made when kids put (or used to put) playing cards in the spokes of their bikes.
However in the last couple months the blower has stopped working intermittently. Sometimes it will come back on if I went over some railroad tracks or a hard bump. If I turn the car off the blower may not work when it's restarted. The last couple days it's stopped doing even that, and since there's snow on the ground it has become an issue! The fan setting doesn't make a difference, high or low.
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