Ford - Explorer :: 2000 4.0 - Sputtering Almost Knocking Sound That Gets Worse When Put Into Gear Or AC Turned On
Jun 24, 2012
I have a 2000 Explorer with the 4.0 OHV. 104,000 miles. Has always ran great. The last few days it has had a sputtering almost knocking sound that gets worse when put into gear or the ac turned on. I changed the oil and checked all fluids. Looks good. Only thing I had done was fill it up this past monday after a storm. My mother in law told me afterwards that the particular station always has complaints after rain and has leaks in their tanks. I'm assuming I may have gotten water into the system. Would this cause these problems? And is it ok to drive it out or should it be flushed. I've added a can of Iso Heat and am now down to 1/4 tank. I had planned on getting a little lower on fuel and filling up with Premium. I've never had a problem like this before so not really sure the best way to track the problem or fix it. Or it may be something else all together.
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My 2000 Toyota Corolla is making a knocking sound that gets worse when the car is in idle and in drive. I have a feeling that it is dying, but is it unsafe?
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I have a 2013 es350 with ~24k miles. Their is an annoying vibration when the A/C is turned on when the car is stopped. The car has a very minor slight vibration at all times that gets a little worse when in 'D' gear at idle. However once the A/C is turned on i can feel the wheel, seats and center console vibrate, especially while in the 'D' gear. To elaborate i can feel it around the car and easily notice the vibration. As soon as i turn the A/C off the vibration goes away and is back to normal. I understand that the A/C puts a strain on the car.
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I just got a new clutch and clutch slave cylinder in my 1998 Ford Explorer. Driving it home from the mechanic, I'm hearing a sputtering sound coming from what seems to be the lower part of the engine compartment. It sounds like a VW Bug exhaust. I've never heard this sound before. It's troubling that it has appeared now immediately following a repair. I presume there is a outside possibility that it's not the mechanics doing, but that seems improbable. (The engine was revving high right before the clutch blew out last week, so maybe those brief high revs caused some damage? I can't imagine that being the case.) Or was there something in the clutch repair process that could have resulted in this?
I made a recording of the sound here.......
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I just replaced the cv joint, the wheel bearings, and the tie rod end on my passenger front side hoping this would fix the problem. It fixed some of the issues but while driving straight when I go over bumps there is a muffled knocking sound coming from that area and my steering becomes loose and jerky. I'm just learning how to work on my cars on my own.
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i have a 2005 mazda tribute v6. it has been knocking for about a year slowly geting worse. no check engine lite on, so i think it may be the egr valve. just wonder how to check it.
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I'm looking at a dirt cheap Explorer 4.0, has been sitting for 2 years. Runs nice, with a double "knock" noise but quieter than a rod knock. Idles smooth at 600 rpm, "knock" is consistent, but increases as engine increases speed. Has 2 year old oil, and 2 year old gas. Would a tune up support it, and revitalize it, or is the engine almost dead. Still drives, didn't push it to hard. Interior is 9/10, exterior is 10/10. I have him down to 600. 4x4 works, and feels good.
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I have a nissan maxima 2000 that sputters and the problem is getting progressively worse. If I am at a stoplight or just stopped with the drive gear on the car sputters. It skips almost every second, but if i put in in park the it runs smoothly. Now I notice that it is sputtering even when I am driving( it was not doing it before). I have already changed the sparkplugs and cleaned the injectors. Now I am debating whether i should change coils and boots. The repair is quite expensive so i want to make sure I am doing the right thing.
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My AC is working intermittently, best under acceleration, horrible in stop & go traffic. The dealership told me I need a new compressor clutch but the written estimate was to replace the whole compressor assembly. Replacing just the clutch isn't too bad, is it? I'm pretty handy and do a lot of my own work but I typically avoid the AC system. Replacing just the clutch doesn't involve draining the coolant or anything, right?
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I have used a wooded stick to locate a ticking or knocking noise on my fuel rail. I can't hear anywhere else on the motor. I took it to a mechanic and he told me it was the timing chains and guides. Sometimes it is very loud and other times it barely noticeable. 191k miles so I am not going to spend $ rebuilding the front of the motor. Just want to be sure it is what he says before I scrap it out.
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I got a 2000 ford explorer with 151k on it... Since iv had the truck (5yrs) its always had a slight slip around 3rd going to 4th. The tran is auto!!
I use to be able to jump in and take off but here lately i have to let the truck idl for a few sec or up to a min before i can take off (warm or cold). This just started a month ago...
The trans fluid smells burned and it has be 2yrs since iv changed fluid and filter in the tran...Everything other then that iv kept up to par. What do you think should i start looking for something new or just change filter and fluid????
I know the truck has had a good life so I am starting to think the tran maybe trying to go.... My friend has a 85 dodge ram charger suv not sure the miles but its auto as well....It has a 318. Other then a small dent the thing look good... It has some kinda vacuum leak major but doesn't effect running. He told me the leak is from something he had removed when we left CA that they said he had to have for smog?
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My extremely used Explorer was driven off the lot, and ran like a champ for 3 months. One morning, I started it up, and noticed a chugging sound. While backing it out of the driveway, the truck felt like it was going to rattle apart. This was a sudden change. When I hit about 40mph, and I'm in 3rd gear, the truck hesitates and chugs along. If I stomp on the accelerator, the truck will kick into 2nd gear, and stops chuging for a second, then the gear changes back to 3rd and the hesitation starts again. If I disconnect the battery for a few minutes, then connect, I can drive normally for about 10 minutes, then back to the surging/hesitation. I've heard this might be a problem with the oxygen sensors or the mass air flow sensor.
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This start this morning on my way to work. When I took my foot off the gas I would hear a clicking knocking sound the sound slowed down as the car slowed down. Any time I took my foot of the gas this would happen. Was still there when I hit the break. If i had my foot just barely on the gas it would go way. Its an automatic 2000 Accent 156K miles.
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My 2000 Explorer has been having recently a very strange sound coming from the rear area, especially the rear right tire. You can hear a clicking sound from inside... its not a nut, bolt or anything stuck to the tires, its just a clicking sound that seems to come as the tire spins. Any known causes for this? Should I be extra worried?
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My 2000 Jetta GLS is producing a clunking/knocking sound from the front end (possibly left-front) ONLY while coasting and going straight. It mostly goes away if I turn left or right and totally goes away when I give the wheels engine power or when I brake.
I recently replaced my front-left control arm due to a thrashed rear bushing. I didn't replace the bearing as I didn't have a pickle fork. Not sure if this is related.
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2007 Explorer Sport Trac was misfiring when first started and then would settle down. Now it is misfiring and when I try to drive it, it does quiet a bit of sputtering and has no power. Took it to mechanic he said it would be hard to tell if it was fuel injectors or what.
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I have a 2000 f150 knocking cant figure out what it is I thought maybe it was rod knocking so I pulled the plug wires and it continues to knock sounds like its coming from the bottom of the motor could this be crank shaft problems ?
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I have an 05 Accent with about 115,000 miles. It is a GLS automatic.
This morning as I was pulling from a stop light about 30 seconds from my office the car was extremely sluggish. I noticed the CEL light blinking and could hear a knocking sound from the engine. I pulled over and found code P0303, cylinder #3 misfire.
I checked the spark plug cable on the coil side it looks ok. I have not been able to check anything else yet as I am at work.
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I have a 1998 Ford Explorer. It was running fine until last Mon. On my 3rd start of the day , it wouldn't stay started long enough to get into gear; sometimes it sputtered violently. I tried starting over the next 2 days with the same outcome so I towed it to mechanic. They replaced spark plugs, wires & started (because it was throw lower voltage than normal). It ran fine the short distance home. The next day, it started fine but sputtered in corners/lower speeds. About 12 miles into the drive, which was at ~60 mph, my auto died and wouldn't start again. What's going on? Could it be the fuel pump?
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I have a 2000 neon, a knocking sound has started only when I get on the gas a bit harder than normal from a dead stop. It seems to last only a few seconds knock knock really fast and then its gone, does not sound like engine knock (rocker knock or persistent knock) more like a mechanical noise. Where to start ? Front breaks were done 4months ago, new rotors / pads / and 1 caliper ...
Seems it to be worse now....now starting to lean towards broken motor mount ... how to check or where to find them. Also now starting to hear while braking.
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93 explorer 215000 miles on it runs like a champ 99.9% of the time. I am on my way home today on the highway going 75mph when all of sudden it started slowing down and sputtering. I quickly pulled over and as I did the car shut off. When I was pumping the pedal nothing would happen. I initially thought fuel pump is dead as I dont know if its been replaced. 45 minutes later on the side of the highway after multiple times trying to start, it does and I cruise the next 20 miles home no problems at all????
Got home started it a few times, NO PROBLEMS!
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